PatrickM Posted December 13, 2018 Report Posted December 13, 2018 Hi all, after a few hints here and there I doubled my efforts to please the emperor and here it finally is: my first build thread. It will be based on the following components: - DoopyDoo's resin kit - the famous E11 completion kit from Tino (a.k.a. T-jay) - M38 1942 resin replica scope from Bulldog Props Japan (a.k.a. Brian) - BlastFX + mini scope electronics from TRamp (you can find him on Facebook) - 3D printed parts from Shadow Defence Systems on Shapeways Let's start with a picture of test fitting the scope rail, made from an aluminum strip: 20181202_191234 (Note that it still shows the original DoopyDoo's scope) This was to make sure that I didn't require the scope rail option for the completion kit. Speaking of which: 20181208_154125 And on the same day the scope kit arrived: Untitled 20181208_102248 First work on the resin kit included washing in hot soap water, and then on to some drilling and dremeling to install the mods from Tino's completion kit: 20181210_220647 (Note the green stuff in the first hole of the folded stock, which was a repair due to a drilling mishap ) Started easy with these mods: 20181209_191721 Then I went on to drill the additional row of holes in the main blaster pipe: 20181209_202712 And when the repair on the folded stock had dried I continued the drilling and gutting: 20181212_215904 Let it snow let it snow... 20181213_200426 Well, that's about it for now... Cheers! 3 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 13, 2018 Author Report Posted December 13, 2018 Not much time left tonight, so only a minor update. Removed the edge on the back side of the rotary selection switch such that it requires less gutting of the grip. Thanks for the tip T-jay! Before: 20181213_235748 After: 20181213_235245 This saves a few mm.... 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 14, 2018 Report Posted December 14, 2018 Awesome start! Great progress so far ... don't forget to use a respirator if you do any more resin dremeling, these fine particulates wreak havoc on your lungs.Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 3 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 14, 2018 Report Posted December 14, 2018 Hi Patrick, glad to see your announced build thread. You already made some good progress. The scope rail turned out well. Looks like you made the 90° upwards bend on the rear end. 14 hours ago, PatrickM said: In the above photo (maybe it is just the angle), it seems like the M38 scope sits a bit close to the rear sight. A quote from the FISD E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE: "The rear foot of the scope should be aligned with the folding stock pivot." Maybe you can still adjust this. 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 14, 2018 Author Report Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) 14 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Awesome start! Great progress so far ... don't forget to use a respirator if you do any more resin dremeling, these fine particulates wreak havoc on your lungs. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Good point! I used a breathing mask and safety glasses while dremeling, hope that’s sufficient protection... 20181214_185111 Edited December 14, 2018 by PatrickM Added picture. 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 14, 2018 Author Report Posted December 14, 2018 4 hours ago, T-Jay said: Hi Patrick, glad to see your announced build thread. You already made some good progress. The scope rail turned out well. Looks like you made the 90° upwards bend on the rear end. In the above photo (maybe it is just the angle), it seems like the M38 scope sits a bit close to the rear sight. A quote from the FISD E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE: "The rear foot of the scope should be aligned with the folding stock pivot." Maybe you can still adjust this. Hi Tino, thanks! Indeed, I went for the extra angle at the rear. In this picture I didn’t check the alignment of the scope (just put it on), but in the meantime I drilled the holes according to the template (the rear hole is 16cm from the front of the rail). So it should be OK Quote
PatrickM Posted December 14, 2018 Author Report Posted December 14, 2018 44 minutes ago, PatrickM said: Hi Tino, thanks! Indeed, I went for the extra angle at the rear. In this picture I didn’t check the alignment of the scope (just put it on), but in the meantime I drilled the holes according to the template (the rear hole is 16cm from the front of the rail). So it should be OK Then again, maybe not. Just put the scope feet above the drill holes and even though the rear hole is 16cm from the beginning of the rail, it’s not exactly above the folding stock pivot: 20181214_182252 So much for the template.... Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 15, 2018 Report Posted December 15, 2018 19 hours ago, PatrickM said: (...) Just put the scope feet above the drill holes and even though the rear hole is 16cm from the beginning of the rail, it’s not exactly above the folding stock pivot (...) All good mate. This is not rocket sience. Your scope is roughly where it should be. 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 15, 2018 Author Report Posted December 15, 2018 9 hours ago, T-Jay said: All good mate. This is not rocket sience. Your scope is roughly where it should be. Not sure if I’m satisfied with “roughly where it should be”... Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted December 16, 2018 Report Posted December 16, 2018 Not sure if I’m satisfied with “roughly where it should be”... Good for you, Patrick. ;-) Moving it forward by approx 10mm should do the trick. If it helps, the existing holes in your scope rail can simply be filled with green stuff, sanded and then painted at the end. (I had to do the same). ;-) 3 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Posted December 16, 2018 Got some more work done today. First I drilled new holes in the scope rail to correct the scope position: 20181216_142111 Then I hollowed the magazine and holder such that they can contain the battery for the electronics: 20181216_122901 20181216_122522 20181216_122312 Then I inserted small neodymium batteries to keep the magazine in the holder: 20181216_164008 Finally, some detail work on the end cap: 20181216_172720 20181216_172945 That’s it for today... Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted December 16, 2018 Report Posted December 16, 2018 Nice work, Patrick. Nicely done with the mag housing to conceal the battery. :-)Just out of interest, what’s your approach with the green stuff on the rear end cap? I can see that you’ve built up a little slope with green stuff, as apposed to the traditional squared look;Keep up the good work. :-) 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Posted December 16, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, CableGuy said: Nice work, Patrick. Nicely done with the mag housing to conceal the battery. :-) Just out of interest, what’s your approach with the green stuff on the rear end cap? I can see that you’ve built up a little slope with green stuff, as apposed to the traditional squared look; Keep up the good work. :-) Thanks! The end cap "slope" and the recess came from Tino's Lucky#Eleven build (see update #09). I also saw it on original sterling end cap pictures. Note that I initially overdid it and it still needs to be sanded down. Here it is with the excess removed: 20181216_214332 Edited December 16, 2018 by PatrickM Added picture 3 Quote
phil Posted December 16, 2018 Report Posted December 16, 2018 would those electrics fit in a real sterling ? 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Posted December 16, 2018 21 minutes ago, phil said: would those electrics fit in a real sterling ? Hi Phil, the electronics will go into the Hengstler counter. I will put charging electronics behind the end cap, which would interfere with the spring of a real sterling. If you want to use the LED strip for the barrel light effect you would need to replace the inner barrel with a clear acrylic tube. For more info regarding the electronics search for “BlastFX” on Facebook. There’s also a BlastFX builders group (also on Facebook). Hope that helps, Patrick 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 16, 2018 Report Posted December 16, 2018 I like how you've installed the battery inside the magazine housing and accessible with magazine removal...exactly as how I did it, worked great! Dan made excellent points there, end cap clip slope looking a-ok Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted December 17, 2018 Report Posted December 17, 2018 Awesome! Great start to your build Patrick. Work on the mag housing and end cap detail looks great. 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Posted December 17, 2018 18 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: I like how you've installed the battery inside the magazine housing and accessible with magazine removal...exactly as how I did it, worked great! Dan made excellent points there, end cap clip slope looking a-ok Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Yes, I should have mentioned that the end clip still needed to be sanded down to remove the excess green stuff. Good to see that I took the right approach with the magazine, thanks! 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Posted December 17, 2018 13 hours ago, Bulldog44 said: Awesome! Great start to your build Patrick. Work on the mag housing and end cap detail looks great. Thanks Brian! This site contains a huge amount of very useful information. That helps a lot for a newbie like me. 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 19, 2018 Author Report Posted December 19, 2018 Testing the battery charger: 20181219_202759 Fully charged! 20181219_210436 Checking the battery voltage: 20181219_210333 Ready for BlastFX to arrive!!! 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 25, 2018 Author Report Posted December 25, 2018 (edited) Merry Christmas everyone! Time for another update. Still working on the details, which take more time than I thought (at least for a beginner like me). Lots of dremeling, sanding and repairing with green stuff... Here’s an overview of the recent progress: 20181225_215425 - placed M4 hex bolts in the folding stock pivot - relocated the clearing strip of the inner bolt (I know, the lower right side is still a bit high but unfortunately I noticed after gluing it) - lots more hollowing of the folding stock - finished the end cap, filled air bubles in the resin cast with green stuff - replaced the U-channel of the end cap clip by the aluminum one from Tino’s kit - hollowed the front sight guard, recreated the front sight block and inserted the grub screw from Tino’s kit, made the front sight from an M4 screw - replaced the resin hat nut in the grip by a real one Here’s a closer look at the tiny details on the end cap clip and the front sight: 20181225_215740 That’s it for now... Hope to make some more progress in between the family visits. Edited December 25, 2018 by PatrickM Added end cap clip update 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 25, 2018 Report Posted December 25, 2018 Wow Patrick! This is incredible progress. Splendid work in hollowing out a large portion of the folding stock. If you care to follow through with some more detail on top of what you're doing, you can add knurling patterns to the bottom of end cap clip T-bar and also on the top half of the front and back of the front sight curves. You said it! Getting the details takes time but it will be well worth it, cheers!Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
PatrickM Posted December 26, 2018 Author Report Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Wow Patrick! This is incredible progress. Splendid work in hollowing out a large portion of the folding stock. If you care to follow through with some more detail on top of what you're doing, you can add knurling patterns to the bottom of end cap clip T-bar and also on the top half of the front and back of the front sight curves. You said it! Getting the details takes time but it will be well worth it, cheers! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Hi Jesse, thanks for your encouraging feedback and suggestions for even more details! The end cap clip T-bar cast from the DoopyDoo’s kit already has a knurling pattern at the bottom, which wasn’t visible in the previous picture (I guess the focus was elsewhere ): 20181226_014059 I had already seen the knurling pattern on the front sight guard in the E11 blaster reference. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find a suitable tool yet to make this pattern. Do you have any suggestions where to obtain the tools shown in the reference (or what they are called so that I can Google them)? Edited December 26, 2018 by PatrickM Refined question Quote
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