Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

[CableGuy[TK]]

Agreed. That’s a great way to do it. Top job!! :-)

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Wow! You put together the scope already. Hope it was fun and easy. 

 

Toyr trigger guard is top notch! I ended up making my own as well as the doopy one I received was badly casted and did not fit correctly. You can even add a bit of tapering contour to the guard. Not sure it[f it’s 100% accurate but when I did mine I used the Dday trigger guard as my reference and it was thicker down the middle and tapered on both sides along the edges. 

 

This bulld is heating up! Awesome work! 

[PatrickM]

29 minutes ago, Bulldog44 said:

Wow! You put together the scope already. Hope it was fun and easy. 

 

Toyr trigger guard is top notch! I ended up making my own as well as the doopy one I received was badly casted and did not fit correctly. You can even add a bit of tapering contour to the guard. Not sure it[f it’s 100% accurate but when I did mine I used the Dday trigger guard as my reference and it was thicker down the middle and tapered on both sides along the edges. 

 

This bulld is heating up! Awesome work! 

Hi Brian,

 

yes after building some experience with the “coarser” stuff I felt that I was finally ready to tackle the more delicate scope build. The most tricky part was drilling the holes. Apart from that it was pretty straightforward thanks to your excellent manual.

 

I cut a few rubber rings to size to keep the small lense in position without gluing it.

20190102_113321

 

Still waiting for the electronics though, so the miniscope is not fitted yet. I will probably also add a red LED behind the small lense, like Marko did in his build.

 

My DoopyDoo’s trigger guard also has a bit of tapering, but on the reference pictures from a real Sterling it appears to be flat. So I’m not sure which is more accurate. Maybe some of the other experts can comment on that?

 

Thanks for your kind feedback!

Best regards, Patrick

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 1/5/2019 at 1:09 AM, PatrickM said:

(...)   The more build threads I read, the more ideas I get for my own build. Thanks Tino for convincing me to start my own build thread; I really appreciate the feedback from experienced blaster builders!    (...)

My pleasure. You see, it was worth it. Your build already benefited from it.

On 1/5/2019 at 1:09 AM, PatrickM said:

This mod looks great. One of the best I have ever seen.

When it comes to painting, the spray paint will have trouble getting into these slots. Would suggest to pre-paint those 'hard-to-reach-spots' with a brush first.

On 1/5/2019 at 10:46 PM, PatrickM said:

What an idea to bring the trigger guard into correct shape. Awesome! I built so many blasters and some of them got replacement trigger guards from aluminum, all shaped individually. I never thought about doing something like this. A great solution - might have to copy that for future builds to come. (damn, just completed two blasters and could have used this.

Edited January 8, 2019 by T-Jay

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 1/6/2019 at 3:56 PM, PatrickM said:

(...)   My DoopyDoo’s trigger guard also has a bit of tapering, but on the reference pictures from a real Sterling it appears to be flat. So I’m not sure which is more accurate.   (...)

On the photo below you can see the trigger guard is a bit wider on the top end, compared to the bottom end. When doing mine, I cut it from 12mm on the front to 10mm on the rear end.

[Dracotrooper]

On the photo below you can see the trigger guard is a bit wider on the top end, compared to the bottom end. When doing mine, I cut it from 12mm on the front to 10mm on the rear end.

This is how I did mine as well...as a guy following closely to SMG references, I would say this is the way to go if you want to get as close to the real deal as possible.

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[PatrickM]

Thanks guys! I realize now that I completely misunderstood the tapering remark... 

 

I thought that was about the middle of the guard being thicker than the sides. But I see now that at the front it’s a bit wider than at the back. Will definitely replicate that as well! 

 

I knew I could rely on the collective knowledge here! You have impeccable eyes for details. 

[Dracotrooper]

Thanks guys! I realize now that I completely misunderstood the tapering remark... 
 
I thought that was about the middle of the guard being thicker than the sides. But I see now that at the front it’s a bit wider than at the back. Will definitely replicate that as well! 
 
I knew I could rely on the collective knowledge here! You have impeccable eyes for details. 

I will have to say, we follow much after detail trailblazer Tino!

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[PatrickM]

3 hours ago, T-Jay said:

My pleasure. You see, it was worth it. Your build already benefited from it.

Yes, very much worth it. My build already benefited a lot from it! 

 

3 hours ago, T-Jay said:

This mod looks great. One of the best I have ever seen.

When it comes to painting, the spray paint will have trouble getting into these slots. Would suggest to pre-paint those 'hard-to-reach-spots' with a brush first.

Thanks for the tip! I’m planning to use an airbrush for (most of) the painting. Would that also have problems reaching these places? I’ve already bought some Tamiya paint, but I just saw that Brian ran into issues with their flat black color. Any recommendations on paint type and method (spray can vs. airbrush)? 

 

3 hours ago, T-Jay said:

What a idea to bring the trigger guard into correct shape. Awesome! I built so many blasters and some of them got replacement trigger guards from aluminum, all shaped individually. I never thought about doing something like this. A great solution - might have to copy that for future builds to come. (damn, just completed two blasters and could have used this.

Glad that I can also give something back to the community!

Still reading up on other build threads, really amazed at the great ideas and skills out there... 

[PatrickM]

Tapered the width of the trigger guard from 12mm at the front to 10mm at the back, as seen in the reference picture of a real Sterling.

 

20190107_233152

 

Thanks again for pointing me to this detail that I overlooked master builders! 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

On 1/6/2019 at 11:56 PM, PatrickM said:

Hi Brian,

 

yes after building some experience with the “coarser” stuff I felt that I was finally ready to tackle the more delicate scope build. The most tricky part was drilling the holes. Apart from that it was pretty straightforward thanks to your excellent manual.

 

I cut a few rubber rings to size to keep the small lense in position without gluing it.

20190102_113321

 

Still waiting for the electronics though, so the miniscope is not fitted yet. I will probably also add a red LED behind the small lens, like Marko did in his build.

 

 

Excellent work on the scope. Yes, drilling the holes out can cause some problems if done without care. Little room for mistakes when working with small delicate  parts. Glad to hear the manual helped. 

 

The rubber rings are a great idea to hold the small lens in place. Great job adding that. I finally got an order of o rings now to supply with my kits. Not sure if they still need to be glued in placed to hold the lens but from my testing them out they hold the lens nice enough.   

[T-Jay[TK]]

16 hours ago, PatrickM said:

(...)   I’m planning to use an airbrush for (most of) the painting. Would that also have problems reaching these places?   (...)   Any recommendations on paint type and method (spray can vs. airbrush)?    (...)

Maybe someone with experience on airbrush techniques can answer this. I finished my builds only with brush and spray can.

[PatrickM]

12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Excellent work on the scope. Yes, drilling the holes out can cause some problems if done without care. Little room for mistakes when working with small delicate  parts. Glad to hear the manual helped. 

That’s exactly why I first built some experience before starting with the scope.  The main challenge for the drilling is to drill exactly perpendicular (without a column drill), with very little margin for deviations. But I managed and other than that it was a piece of cake. Everything fit perfectly! 

 

12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

The rubber rings are a great idea to hold the small lens in place. Great job adding that. I finally got an order of o rings now to supply with my kits. Not sure if they still need to be glued in placed to hold the lens but from my testing them out they hold the lens nice enough.

That sounds like Brian: improving even upon perfection! 

 

I’ve been reading your build thread yesterday Brian, amazing how many innovative mods were introduced by you! Really considering the dove tail front sight block now...  And still doubting which way to go with the end cap clip, I’m worried that the DoopyDoo’s T-piece is too fragile to use...

 

Thanks again for your awesome scope kit!!! 

[T-Jay[TK]]

7 minutes ago, PatrickM said:

(...)   And still doubting which way to go with the end cap clip, I’m worried that the DoopyDoo’s T-piece is too fragile to use   (...)

Give it a try, Patrick. Leave it as thick as possible and pick a small drill bit for the hole in the middle. In case it brakes, there are 3D printed versions available from Chris (themaninthesuitcase).

[PatrickM]

1 hour ago, T-Jay said:

Give it a try, Patrick. Leave it as thick as possible and pick a small drill bit for the hole in the middle. In case it brakes, there are 3D printed versions available from Chris (themaninthesuitcase).

Hi Tino, I already did some time ago:

20190108_202513

 

I think the 3mm axle (cut from a worn out Dremel bit) is still a bit too thick. There’s very little resin left around the drill holes, which I fear is not strong enough for a functional clip. Considering alternatives like 3D printed or scratch build.

Edited January 8, 2019 by PatrickM
Picture didn’t show

[T-Jay[TK]]

Sorry Pat, I am following so many E-11 build threads, sometimes its hard to correctly remember who did which modification. Sorry for the confusion.

 

What about filling up that hole with green stuff and making a new, smaller one? Or is there any chance to re-inforce the clip with a thin layer of metal on the bottom? (just brainstorming...)

[PatrickM]

53 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Sorry Pat, I am following so many E-11 build threads, sometimes its hard to correctly remember who did which modification. Sorry for the confusion.

 

What about filling up that hole with green stuff and making a new, smaller one? Or is there any chance to re-inforce the clip with a thin layer of metal on the bottom? (just brainstorming...)

No problem at all Tino, I completely understand that you follow tons of build threads and can’t remember everybody’s individual progress! 

 

Thanks for the suggestions!   I will first try if I can correct the warping of the T-piece after heating it. Then it might be worth salvaging with some reinforcements. Otherwise there are also plenty of other solutions, of which ordering a 3D printed one is the easiest (and cheap because I will most likely order some more 3D printed parts for the power cylinders, the rounded squarish block for the folding stock and the front sight block). Plenty of great examples in Brian’s build thread for scratch built T-pieces.

 

I thought I had found some nice power cylinder end caps on 10.3mm diameter fuses, but unfortunately they appear to be impossible to remove without damaging them. Unless someone has a good idea for that? The ceramics are much harder than I expected; even the Dremel cutting disc hardly gets through. And then the bit in the cap still remains... 

 

20190108_222820

[Dracotrooper]

I found tiny plumbing valve caps at my local hardware store. They're made of brass so easy to sand and shape.

 

 

 

 

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Edited January 8, 2019 by Dracotrooper

[Dracotrooper]

Hatnuts or another name is Pushnuts. This is another alternative. The trick is getting that excess away.

 

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Edited January 8, 2019 by Dracotrooper

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I tried to salvage the doopy end clip T section but opted to make a new one with some PVC plastic. I think I even made one out of aluminum but opted not use it as I could not apply the knurling pattern on it as I wanted.  

[PatrickM]

16 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

I tried to salvage the doopy end clip T section but opted to make a new one with some PVC plastic. I think I even made one out of aluminum but opted not use it as I could not apply the knurling pattern on it as I wanted.  

Yes I saw all the options you tried, impressive! Wasn’t it an option to put a layer of green stuff on the aluminum T-piece and press the knurling pattern into that? Or would it come off too easy then? Where did you get the thick PVC that you eventually used?

[Bulldog44[TK]]

4 hours ago, PatrickM said:

Yes I saw all the options you tried, impressive! Wasn’t it an option to put a layer of green stuff on the aluminum T-piece and press the knurling pattern into that? Or would it come off too easy then? Where did you get the thick PVC that you eventually used?

Thanks. Yes you can use the green stuff to get the knurling pattern on there. I think I tried heating the tool handle I was using and heat press it into the pvc plastic. Fuzzy on my memory there. I think it could work using the green stuff on the aluminum but was t sure if it would hold permanently. Now thinking about it, I think would be okay. 

  I bought the over strip at a local home center. I think it is generally used fir some window framing here or something like that. It’s easy to cut and file to shape. If you need any, I can mail you some pieces.

[PatrickM]

50 minutes ago, Bulldog44 said:

Thanks. Yes you can use the green stuff to get the knurling pattern on there. I think I tried heating the tool handle I was using and heat press it into the pvc plastic. Fuzzy on my memory there. I think it could work using the green stuff on the aluminum but was t sure if it would hold permanently. Now thinking about it, I think would be okay. 

  I bought the over strip at a local home center. I think it is generally used fir some window framing here or something like that. It’s easy to cut and file to shape. If you need any, I can mail you some pieces.

Thanks Brian! I will have another look in the local construction / hardware stores for some suitable aluminum or PVC. So far I found only thin strips and profiles up to 3mm. Unfortunately importing this kind of materials is very uneconomical due to the administration charge for the customs check. The 3D printed part is only 2.5 € and I expect that the knurling pattern can also be applied to it (similar to the PVC).

[PatrickM]

LED there be light

Today I received a package from Lighthouse LEDs with some Ultra Bright red LEDs and some 20mA LED drivers. To ensure sufficient voltage even when the battery voltage runs low, I added a step-up boost converter that I adjusted to 5V output.

 

Here are some pictures of the first test:

20190111_230528

 

20190111_231145

 

Looks bright enough to me 

 

Cheers! 

[Dracotrooper]

LED there be light
Today I received a package from Lighthouse LEDs with some Ultra Bright red LEDs and some 20mA LED drivers. To ensure sufficient voltage even when the battery voltage runs low, I added a step-up boost converter that I adjusted to 5V output.
 
Here are some pictures of the first test:
20190111_230528
 
20190111_231145
 
Looks bright enough to me 
 
Cheers! 

I envy your electronic know-how; keep up the great work

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