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[ukswrath[Staff]]

21 hours ago, troopermaster said:

 Ignore how much gap you have on your wrists, it's totally irrelevant. Any wrist gap goes as soon as you start carrying your blaster.

Incorrect. It is relevant.

 

 

Also, once you put your arms down (and eventually you will) your forearms will hike half up 2" inches. Coming from experience as someone who 6' tall with long arms it makes a world of difference where the forearms are placed. I agree there should be minimal gap between the forearm and bicep but if you have exceptionally long arms this theory doesn't always apply. 

 

Florian I suggest you take a look at some taller RS Centurion applicants as see how their placement is set.

 

 

Edited June 22, 2019 by ukswrath

[troopermaster]

It is irrelevant. Who cares about wrist gap? So what if you have it? Honestly, would you rather have your inner elbow pinched to heck just so you don't have some gap at your wrist when you have your arms down? Seriously?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Just now, troopermaster said:

It is irrelevant. Who cares about wrist gap? So what if you have it? Honestly, would you rather have your inner elbow pinched to heck just so you don't have some gap at your wrist when you have your arms down? Seriously?

Not going to argue with you on a build page Paul but simply look at the photo I provided. It's not rocket science. 

 

Florian I apologies for the slight disruption. This is your armor build it as you wish, according to the CRL of course

 

[troopermaster]

11 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Not going to argue with you on a build page Paul but simply look at the photo I provided. It's not rocket science.

As you 'should' know the biceps were not connected to the shoulder bells on the original armour so they will slide down like in the photo. You can clearly see gaps between the biceps and bells. Plus the actors were small, like 5' 8" or less, so even when the arms were pulled up they may  appear to have  little to no wrist gap.  So again, the elbow joint and comfort should be the priority.

 

Over and out

 

 

[hazamel[TK]]

Oh boy... didn't want to start an argument.  

 

I looked at Sven's Build an EIB application where this was a topic. He's a little over 6' like me so this was the reason I asked and used im 

That's why I was a little frustrated and confused. Any way I tried it looked weird in a certain way. Having a huge gap between handplate and forearm looks strange, having my biceps hanging somewhere very low feels weird (not phsyically but mentally... it's called biceps and not "upper ellbow armor"  ) having it hanging around like the guy in the second row nowhere near the shoulder 

 

Looks like Sven altered his armor from EIB to Centurion by moving down his biceps a little. Or he cut his arms. 
I'll play around with it tomorrow. There aren't so many variables I can change. Just have to hit the sweetspot.

I'm well aware that there's no CRL requirement for gaps but I want my arms to look nice. Attaching the comfort-connection between biceps and shoulder will be the last thing I'll do. No glueing before I'm not happy with the outcome.

So now shake your hands and get a beer  I appreciate both of your work and helpfull inputs and insights.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Lol, it's all good, just a slight difference of opinion. Like many here we're just passionate about armor ,

 

Paul's focus on the elbow gap is correct and I don't dispute that, my concern was the overall length of your arms and armor placement. Again, coming from someone who has long arms if my armor was built to his specs my forearm armor would be at the middle of my forearm. So, placement is relevant so it doesn't look odd. 

 

That said, dropping the biceps as low as they can go without popping out the bottom of the bells and minimizing the gap between biceps and forearms is key. If for some reason you find yourself with unusual amount of space between the forearms and hand guards I suggest consulting one of the DOs here as well your garrison's GML for advice as those will be the folks ultimately approving your armor. 

 

Keep up the great work 

Edited June 22, 2019 by ukswrath

[hazamel[TK]]

Quoting myself: I'll play around with it tomorrow.

 

Sure... "tomorrow"...

I left about 1 cm / 0.4" between biceps and forearm and tried it again. This time both sides.

 

While the left side looks okay from my point of view...

 

... I feel like I show a little to much glove on the right side.

Don't know why my glove looks so strange like I'm wearing a watch...

 

Judging from these pictures I would move down the forearm right just a liiiiittle down and it'll be fine.

Also: I really need a strap in my shoulder to connect to the biceps one more snap-noise from the biceps slipping out of my shoulder bell and something inside me would snap  Hence my facial expression...

 

I also learned that I can opperate my mobile with my nose... Don't ask.

 

There's also a success today:
Magent-closed Dropbox was a success!!!

A friend send me a picture of his magentic dropboxes and I did something very similar. Had some dice-shaped magents lying around, so I did this thing.

 

Came out pretty nice. It's closed shut but not to strong. I'm pretty happy with it and at least I've a safe place to store my key or tradingcards.

 

 

And kids out there: Zap-a-Gap is a serious glue! No toy. Heard that someone almost glued his fingers to a pair of magents. They are now connected forever by the laws of physics... and Zap-A-Gap.

[TheSwede[TK]]

You seem to be on top of the arms so I´ll move up to the shoulder bells. In order for them to fit the best meaning a minimal gap between them and the chest/back armor they should be trimed with a curve as the originals were

[hazamel[TK]]

11 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

You seem to be on top of the arms so I´ll move up to the shoulder bells. In order for them to fit the best meaning a minimal gap between them and the chest/back armor they should be trimed with a curve as the originals were

What do you mean by on top of the arms?

Any hint on where and how to find the right reference point for the curve?

 

Guess one of the issues is also that the snap on the shoulder is more on the back than to the front. It’s pulling the shoulderbells slightly to the back 

[troopermaster]

41 minutes ago, hazamel said:

Quoting myself: I'll play around with it tomorrow.

 

Sure... "tomorrow"...

I left about 1 cm / 0.4" between biceps and forearm and tried it again. This time both sides.

I measure the gap on the inner swoop of the forearms. This will guarantee you have the same gap that you might not achieve when measuring the outside gap.

 

Another thing you might not have considered is having the inner forearm length the same. If you measure up from the wrist to the lowest part of the inner swoop it should be approximately 22cms, then you can have a 4cm gap between the bicep and swoop. This is how I assemble my kits anyway.

 

Again, the biceps should be strapped from the bells and sit inside the bells about half way when they are not worn. One thing that might be causing your bells to slip above your biceps is the RS bells are quite narrow and if the lower end of the bells are not as wide as your biceps, they will naturally want to creep above them.

[TheSwede[TK]]

33 minutes ago, hazamel said:

What do you mean by on top of the arms?

That you know what to strive for and don´t need more input on it from me

 

34 minutes ago, hazamel said:

Any hint on where and how to find the right reference point for the curve?

Use the reference I provided and eye-balling it. Or...print it out to scale and use it as a stencil - do check that you don´t trim to much though.

 

[hazamel[TK]]

15 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Use the reference I provided and eye-balling it. Or...print it out to scale and use it as a stencil - do check that you don´t trim to much though.

As far as I understood all the stuff I read about the curved bells it's removing the right angle at the lower end and make it follow the curve of the chestplate.

 

Like this. Same on the back and the other side:

 

 

51 minutes ago, troopermaster said:

Another thing you might not have considered is having the inner forearm length the same. If you measure up from the wrist to the lowest part of the inner swoop it should be approximately 22cms, then you can have a 4cm gap between the bicep and swoop. This is how I assemble my kits anyway.

And, I guess, there's the problem for showing too much hand. Although I just removed the return edges the inner length of my forearms is about 20 cm from wrist to swoop.

 

55 minutes ago, troopermaster said:

Again, the biceps should be strapped from the bells and sit inside the bells about half way when they are not worn. One thing that might be causing your bells to slip above your biceps is the RS bells are quite narrow and if the lower end of the bells are not as wide as your biceps, they will naturally want to creep above them.

So my real biceps has to push down the armor with the elastic trying to pull them up again for half way into the bell? If that's the case my biceps-armor is to wide or I've to take a break from building and go to the gym.

It's like you said: When I unboxed my shoulderbells I was wondering if they were dented or warped

 

I get the feeling I should have put together every piece in advance with the real stuff without really using glue. 

Can I go back to the moment when I thought the legs were complicated to adjust?

[TheSwede[TK]]

13 minutes ago, hazamel said:

As far as I understood all the stuff I read about the curved bells

Didn´t know you already knew this - as you were Trooper

[hazamel[TK]]

16 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Didn´t know you already knew this - as you were Trooper

 Was kind of a well kept secret I didn’t find an answer here. A lot of people mentioned the curved bell but didn’t find an explanation how to get there.

And if there’s one thing I learned while building: uncomfortable is normal, pokey is to avoid

[hazamel[TK]]

New day, new try...

I glued parts of the strapping because even though I've trusty magnets it was too wonky.

 

So glued the shoulder strap and the biceps-forearme connection to the biceps. I can adjust the length size of the gap by moving the magnet at the forearm.

 

 

 

Also glued a snap to the forearm and fixed an elastic at the biceps. Wouldn't belive it but such a huge difference (Thanks @troopermaster for insisting on that...).

From my point of view this the best I've seen the last days. I noticed that arms are always in motion so the gaps are varying. It looks okay one moment and two steps later it's stuck on a wrinkel of the undersuit or the gloves and looks total crap.

 

What I didn't do so far was cutting the shoulderbells like @TheSwede recommended. I paid close attention to the behavior of my shoulderbells and they don't pinch me in the side or get distracting entangled with my chest or back. It bothers me more that they are pushed outwards on top. Shouldn't they tilt more inward? Are the bells too narrow? Elastic too weak? Any suggestions on how to improve that issue?

 

 

[troopermaster]

Do you have the shoulder bells on the correct sides? They look wider from the rear view than the front so you might want to swap them over?

 

Daniel is right about trimming the bells curved. You can see your bells look straight. They should follow the contours of your chest and back plates ideally.

 

 

[hazamel[TK]]

6 minutes ago, troopermaster said:

Do you have the shoulder bells on the correct sides? They look wider from the rear view than the front so you might want to swap them over?

 

Daniel is right about trimming the bells curved. You can see your bells look straight. They should follow the contours of your chest and back plates ideally.

 

 

The one with the straight ridge on the right the other one with the nose on the left. 

 

Already marked out the contours but didn’t cut before the arm issue is not resolved

Edited June 23, 2019 by hazamel
Typo

[troopermaster]

7 minutes ago, hazamel said:

The one with the straight ridge on the right the other one with the nose on the left.

You got them on correctly. It will be a case of trimming them with the curve and maybe a slight alteration of the strapping.

 

One thing to note is that the bells will be pulled down now the arms are connected, so have the top bell strap with the snap really short to allow for some stretch. The original bells were free from the arms so nothing pulled on them and it's a bit harder to achieve the same look when the arms are connected, but it's not impossible

[Bullseye[TK]]

On 6/22/2019 at 1:38 PM, TheSwede said:

You seem to be on top of the arms so I´ll move up to the shoulder bells. In order for them to fit the best meaning a minimal gap between them and the chest/back armor they should be trimed with a curve as the originals were

Is there more info on the dimensions of the bells? I’m having a tough time with figuring out how to trim mine on my build.  There are no trim lines on my kit, so I’m looking for whatever addition info there is on them before trimming.  (Sorry to lurk in this build thread, but I’ve been looking for more information on this for a while)

[hazamel[TK]]

5 hours ago, Bullseye said:

Is there more info on the dimensions of the bells? I’m having a tough time with figuring out how to trim mine on my build.  There are no trim lines on my kit, so I’m looking for whatever addition info there is on them before trimming.  (Sorry to lurk in this build thread, but I’ve been looking for more information on this for a while)

Basic shape I used is as follows: from bottom to top on the ridge: 33cm / 12 Inches. For the depth it’s about 13cm / 5 Inches from the edge of the ridge to the edge that is towards your body.

Getting the curved shape is really eyeballin. Put mine on the assembled torso and marked it with a pencil and slowly started sanding it down. Will post a picture on Friday because I‘m separated from my armor this week

[TheSwede[TK]]

8 hours ago, Bullseye said:

There are no trim lines on my kit, so I’m looking for whatever addition info there is on them before trimming. 

Although it might give an Idea on size I would advise against going with someone elses measurements when it comes to fit. There are some measurements floating around here made by RS props and they measured the bells in their possession, all good if you are keen on using actuall screen size but that’s no guarantee all the bells were the same size (probably were though) and more importantly - that might not fit your bodytype.

If unsure on how to trim the bells, put the torso together first and then size the bells wearing said torso by using reference images like the ones I provided and take pics of yourself to look at and to post here for guidance. If possible, go to an armor party and compare to others. Just avoid trimming them straight 

[hazamel[TK]]

3 hours ago, TheSwede said:

Although it might give an Idea on size I would advise against going with someone elses measurements when it comes to fit. There are some measurements floating around here made by RS props and they measured the bells in their possession, all good if you are keen on using actuall screen size but that’s no guarantee all the bells were the same size (probably were though) and more importantly - that might not fit your bodytype.

If unsure on how to trim the bells, put the torso together first and then size the bells wearing said torso by using reference images like the ones I provided and take pics of yourself to look at and to post here for guidance. If possible, go to an armor party and compare to others. Just avoid trimming them straight 

That’s the problem  it seems like there are only two kinds of shoulderbells: those with cutlines and those without that use the RS ones. At least that‘s what I found while looking for a place to start

[TheSwede[TK]]

39 minutes ago, hazamel said:

That’s the problem

Not sure I follow

[hazamel[TK]]

1 hour ago, TheSwede said:

Not sure I follow

That’s fine  too hot here. 

I can feel his confusion because I‘ve been there recently. You get this pile of plastic and you‘ve no idea where to start. At least for me some measurements would be awesome to have an orientation for less guided kits. Guess it’s part of the journey to learn that building a TK is no exact science like we‘re used to nowadays but more eyeballin, improvising and less caring.

from all parts I build so far I learned that there’s always a referencepoint to start from. But you‘ve to find it. 

[troopermaster]

I measured my bells earlier today for what it's worth. They were 305mm long and 300mm around the lower edge. They do curve nicely. Here are some photos I took a while back that might help you.