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Posted

So after considering my options I decided to go ahead and apply the Plastidip to the inside of helmet. Later I'm going to attach velcro as needed for padding and eventually to attach electronics (fans, etc.).

Ended up using a full can to coat the inside of the cap and face plate.

4EXhSlcm.jpg  TE3fmUWm.jpg

 

I wasn't sure if I wanted to just go with just the bare lenses on top of the mounts or if I wanted to use the ABS I cut before to make rims around the lenses. 

They look pretty good like this.

vH9s1KBl.jpg

 

 

 

I decided to make the rims and just see if I liked it. I decided to paint them silver

C5osbVYm.jpg  B1WGcvim.jpg

 

 

While that was drying I hot glued the screen into place over the frown and cut out an adhesive foam rubber border to hide the edges

q6LA9bCl.jpg

 

 

The next day I mounted them. I decided it gave it a more sophisticated look

4Gsd1znl.jpg

 

Xy75nQBl.jpg

 

 

And it's all back together (minus the rubber trim)

SSpclyhl.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice job.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Looking good Greg. What did you use to screw in the lenses? I am doing the same with my bucket as a future project and haven't found a way to secure the lenses that I like.

Posted
22 hours ago, Kaar121 said:

Looking good Greg. What did you use to screw in the lenses? I am doing the same with my bucket as a future project and haven't found a way to secure the lenses that I like.

 

Thanks James! I see you're in Utah too?

I picked up 6, 1/4" outer diameter threaded aluminum spacers and found black machine screws that I liked with the same threading at Ace Hardware and carefully bored wholes in the Plasticweld mounts with a 1/4" bit.

cHFKMeJ.jpg

 

After applying the black plastidip the holes were a little smaller so the spacers fit in there nice and tight, I was considering gluing them in but they were so snug and the lenses are already curved so there wasn't any additional flexing that is going to cause them to pull out (from what I can tell at this point anyway.

DfifBrCm.jpg?1  2WZteoHm.jpg?1  M8kJoAem.jpg?1

 

 

I also considered the Sugru route like Matt used and they're both great options. I just liked how I was able to do additional sculpting to the Plasticweld to make the mounts look like a molded part of the eye sockets.

If you have any other questions about it feel free to ask or even message me directly.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Perfect! Thanks Greg, there is an Ace just up the street from me. I too am using Platicweld. I read a HowTo on bucket lenses a year or two ago,

 

It seemed simple enough and I have all materials needed save for a way to mount the lenses.

Anywho, I hope to see you at a troop sometime before you finish your armor.

Posted
Perfect! Thanks Greg, there is an Ace just up the street from me. I too am using Platicweld. I read a HowTo on bucket lenses a year or two ago,
 
It seemed simple enough and I have all materials needed save for a way to mount the lenses.
Anywho, I hope to see you at a troop sometime before you finish your armor.


Yeah that's the same tutorial I used for my mounts! That's where I got the idea for the threaded spacers.
Yeah I hope to see you around too. I was gonna try and go to some events as a handler before I finish my armor, to try to get to know people in the community
  • Like 1
Posted

Alright I'm waiting to receive my undersuit so I can start making fitment choices. In the meantime I'm doing some quick size-ups with the arms first. I know I'm going to have to trim down the extremities just like a 1/2"-1". So my first question is how do I want the forearms to fit lengthwise?

Here are some pics:

micfjCFl.jpg 

 

I was thinking of trimming it at the red line.

QGkcHz2l.jpg

 

HtML1Jtl.jpg

 

 

 

Thoughts??

 

Posted

I would tape up the bicep as well and strap them together to see how it works before making any Cuts:)

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, TheSwede said:

I would tape up the bicep as well and strap them together to see how it works before making any Cuts:)

Good idea!! Do you recommend just a temp strap with tape cut to the right strapping length?

Posted
1 minute ago, TKModder421 said:

Good idea!! Do you recommend just a temp strap with tape cut to the right strapping length?

Yep:duim: 

2waTUf4.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Also, you probably want to have on an undersuit so you get the closest, most accurate sense of the fit. I just used lots of painters tape which worked.


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Sorry to be "that guy" again but...

2 hours ago, TKModder421 said:

Alright I'm waiting to receive my undersuit so I can start making fitment choices. In the meantime I'm doing some quick size-ups with the arms first.

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:


What?? What am I missing here?


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That he is planning on using his undersuit, it hasn´t arrived just yet so he is only doing tests :)

28 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

 

2 hours ago, TKModder421 said:

Alright I'm waiting to receive my undersuit so I can start making fitment choices. In the meantime I'm doing some quick size-ups with the arms first.

 

 

Posted (edited)

He’s fine as long as he does do a full ‘dress rehearsal’ before doing any cutting by that I mean undersuit, gloves, boots, etc.

Edited by Harbinger
  • Like 1
Posted

OK, so I got my undersuit, so I'm ready to start with the rough fitting.

Starting with the biceps first. How do I want these to fit exactly? I'm probably going to take in the top a bit but the bottom is comfortable when my arms are down but get snug when I flex my bicep. Is this a concern? Should I give myself a little more room at the bottom?

OTye7Apl.jpg   APyH9iEl.jpg

Posted

The Movie troopers have slim bicep pieces so keep them tight but still beeing able to remove the helmet, and as I said earlier, with both biceps and forearms. The bicep should be able to move up and down as you move your arm.

bTAc4YR.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

The Movie troopers have slim bicep pieces so keep them tight but still beeing able to remove the helmet, and as I said earlier, with both biceps and forearms. The bicep should be able to move up and down as you move your arm.

 

 

Oh ok! Helmet removal is the base line I should use for arm movement?

Posted
1 minute ago, TKModder421 said:

 

Oh ok! Helmet removal is the base line I should use for arm movement?

Yes, most of the time you´ll be standing with a blaster like the guys above but is only a good thing to be able to put on/take off the helmet on your own:duim:

  • Like 1
Posted

What Daniel said. Normally a good gauge of spacing is a finger width or so.

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  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, Rat said:

What Daniel said. Normally a good gauge of spacing is a finger width or so.

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Awesome!! Thanks guys! I'll update my progress soon

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Alright!! So I received my undersuit and I'm ready to start moving forward with prelim fitting and some trimming.

 

I did some test rigging with duct tape and found my right arm to sit pretty well and have a good range of motion.

57u0Aepl.jpg

 

But when I did the same with the left arm (especially bending my elbow) I wasn't getting the same range of motion. My forearm was running into the bicep and the bicep wasn't sliding up my upper arm any further.

XryXcrfl.jpg  7QI10o8l.jpg

 

 

So I was trying to figure out why that was happening, and I noticed that the bicep piece wasn't sliding any higher because it was pushing up into my armpit as far as it would go.

 

I took off both arms to compare the biceps and what I found was that the inside, top opening of the left bicep doesn't dip down as far as the right bicep does.

b0QZa0hl.jpg 

 

You can see it much better when you line them up

4UDd7cBl.jpg

 

 

So I guess my question is what course of action should I take? If I trim down the top inside opening I'll be getting close to that thumb dent, but I don't have enough length on the top of the opening to be trimming off the bottom opening without possibly leaving a gap between the bottom of the shoulder bell and the top of the bicep. I hope that all made sense :wacko:

 

Thoughts??

 

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