Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 4, 2018 Report Posted November 4, 2018 (edited) All, As I compile my kit for my ANH TK conversion to HWT, I really wanted to add a set of electrobinoculars to the overall kit. While not required for basic or anything, it was just a prop I really wanted to have. As I started researching build threads etc I found some interesting scratch builds but wanted something more. Then I stumbled on the 3D print files on thingverse. I contacted a buddy who loves using his 3D printer and bam...a build thread was formed. I’ve soaked up so much knowledge on FISD, thought I would give back a little...especially since I could not find a satisfactory build thread for these on here (at least what I was looking for). I also didn’t like that I had to search all over to get anything adequate...one of the things I (and have to assume many) find challenging about joining the 501st is that information is largely dispersed throughout many different forums, all requiring different logins/etc. I know the info (or at least some of it) exists on MEPD but why should I have to get yet another account to find it? (I did eventually but I digress)...here are the files I’m using for the build (to give credit to the owner) credit to mightyjebus: ------------- pics of the 3D print and subsequent build to follow... Edited July 10, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link removed no longer working Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 4, 2018 Author Report Posted November 4, 2018 Some pics of the 3D printing process 1 Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 6, 2018 Author Report Posted November 6, 2018 Couple more pics hot off the printer. Next steps (after it posts from the UK) is to use the XTC 3D coat in order to provide a uniform layer to sand/coat/paint the binocs. More on that process when I go through it since this will be my first time doing anything with a 3D printed product. I’m sure the majority on here are well seasoned gurus when it comes to finishing 3D printed products...I however am not in that group yet. Quote
Harbinger[IPM] Posted November 6, 2018 Report Posted November 6, 2018 Pretty good resolution on those prints! Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted November 7, 2018 Report Posted November 7, 2018 Wow, this is turning out really well. Maybe you'll some day do another one ;-) Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 17, 2018 Author Report Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) Got the kit parts in tonight from my buddy in the UK. Put them together with a mix of crazy glue and 2 part epoxy (because I ran out of the crazy glue)..included mandatory Scotch pic b/c you know...its no Trooper build w/o the Scotch! After building, I coated the whole thing with XTC-3D which was suggested from my buddy who has many 3D builds under his belt. Apparently, this stuff makes it easier to sand/finish your 3D kit...I had no idea...so I bought the kit off Amazon and knocked it out.... Edited November 17, 2018 by Ru4scuba trying to figure it out... Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 17, 2018 Author Report Posted November 17, 2018 (edited) Ok....suck at posting (swear i'm not trying to up my post count LOL)...here is a pic of the kit after a couple of XTC-3D coats....looks like its been slimed from a xenomorph film... Plan to let it dry and then attack it with some sandpaper and primer after daughter's soccer tourney... Edited November 17, 2018 by Ru4scuba Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Posted November 18, 2018 Ok...learn from my mistakes...two coats of XTC means LOTS of sanding...I had big drips I had to sand off etc...anyway, after over an hour of sanding...we're ready for the first coat of Primer. Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Posted November 22, 2018 This baby is primed...tomorrow, I'm going to apply a couple of coats of dull metallic paint (pewter) and then mustard....after that, I'll apply a couple of coats of off white and brush it gently to bring out the metallic underneath in certain spots... Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Posted November 26, 2018 So....way to much XTC provides for a tough finish to this project. I had to go back and re-groove all of the grooves around the large front facing lens because they were completely gooped over between paint and the XTC 3D finish...that sucked and took more time than expected. In spite of the time spent, I feel as though its starting to come together...my daughter took one look and said "Dad...it looks like its been to a warzone." I thought well, that's the look I'm going for... Now to try this mustard thing I've been reading about for weathering... It took a few hours of dabbing some on...coming back....dabbing some on...coming back to get the affect I think I'm looking for...only time will tell after I apply the first coat of base white paint if I've achieved it. Not sure about layering (as I've read is possible) as really I'm just trying to get one layer of metallic to come through here... Don't know if this is too thick or just right. Also wondering what type of brush I should use to gently wipe it off after painted....I'll figure it out. Now to wait a couple of days and then try the base layer and eventually, some weathering! Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted November 26, 2018 Report Posted November 26, 2018 Looking GREAT so far, Chris! Most of those rough areas can be filled with XTC-3D or something similar for a smoother look. After that, time for weathering! For HWT armor weathering, I am a fan of "less is more", but for these the more the merrier. Remember that the yellow/mustard color is usually for Sandie armor/accessories. We HWTs go with shades of black/gray. Here are some pics of my "battle worn" binocs if it will help: Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, justjoseph63 said: Looking GREAT so far, Chris! Most of those rough areas can be filled with XTC-3D or something similar for a smoother look. After that, time for weathering! For HWT armor weathering, I am a fan of "less is more", but for these the more the merrier. Remember that the yellow/mustard color is usually for Sandie armor/accessories. We HWTs go with shades of black/gray. Here are some pics of my "battle worn" binocs if it will help: Thx much...great reference photos for me to use! The idea with the mustard is that the yellow will brush off (I hope) once painted over with a base of white. This will then bring out the metal underneath...testing this online theory... Edited November 26, 2018 by Ru4scuba Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted November 26, 2018 Report Posted November 26, 2018 Looks as if the openings for the strap are about the same as mine, (3/4 inch wide) so this may help: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brown-Veg-Tan-Leather-Belt-Blank-Strips-Straps-8-9-oz-48-inches-Long/262234237230?hash=item3d0e60e92e:m:msD-LyLVJu8yzkqUKz6Cq4g:rk:1:pf:0&var=560986208228 What I did to attach it was to run it through the opening, double up the end about half an inch and epoxy it together. This makes it thick enough not to slip out. 40+ troops and no problems. Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Posted November 26, 2018 3 hours ago, justjoseph63 said: Looks as if the openings for the strap are about the same as mine, (3/4 inch wide) so this may help: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brown-Veg-Tan-Leather-Belt-Blank-Strips-Straps-8-9-oz-48-inches-Long/262234237230?hash=item3d0e60e92e:m:msD-LyLVJu8yzkqUKz6Cq4g:rk:1:pf:0&var=560986208228 What I did to attach it was to run it through the opening, double up the end about half an inch and epoxy it together. This makes it thick enough not to slip out. 40+ troops and no problems. Fantastic thanks!! Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted December 1, 2018 Author Report Posted December 1, 2018 Basecoat of dull white over metallic and mustard... Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 1, 2018 Report Posted December 1, 2018 Looking AWESOME! I am still confused about the use of the mustard, though. Can Grey Poupon be used? Since the "lenses" on mine looked sort of dull, (fake), I painted the eye openings and main lens black, and then cut some clear plastic to fit over them. I used rubber washers glued into around the rim for a little more "realistic" look. Then again, I am a detail freak, lol. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 2, 2018 Report Posted December 2, 2018 7 hours ago, Bud Spaklur said: Just curious- can an actual pair of binoculars be used and encased inside these molds? I don't think that would work, as there is only one lens on the front. It wouldn't surprise me if someone did manage to rig up a working set, though! Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted December 2, 2018 Author Report Posted December 2, 2018 14 hours ago, justjoseph63 said: Looking AWESOME! I am still confused about the use of the mustard, though. Can Grey Poupon be used? Since the "lenses" on mine looked sort of dull, (fake), I painted the eye openings and main lens black, and then cut some clear plastic to fit over them. I used rubber washers glued into around the rim for a little more "realistic" look. Then again, I am a detail freak, lol. Was wondering about the black rings around yours...I like it and am going to steal it! ref the mustard...haven’t had time this weekend (too many troops) but want to see how easily it rubs off after the dull white coat...my guess is...not as easy as I’d hoped... Quote
magni[TK] Posted December 2, 2018 Report Posted December 2, 2018 I built a pair from a storage container and use my camera inside. It takes pictures and just for general looks workable when I let someone look in. I'll hold it and hit the zoom button once they peek in viewfinder. Camera is held in with some blue foam. Wedge in and go. Pops out with pull from wrist strap. I haven't used them in awhile. I did add a new leather strap. And. need to weather it up more. ( I know Joseph ) Your's is coming along nicely! Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted December 3, 2018 Author Report Posted December 3, 2018 Nice! Like the camera idea! Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 3, 2018 Report Posted December 3, 2018 20 hours ago, Ru4scuba said: Was wondering about the black rings around yours...I like it and am going to steal it! Steal away, Chris! First, since there are no actual lenses, I painted the openings black, cut some clear (thin) plastic to cover them. After that I went to the plumbing dept. at Lowe's and bought some rubber washers. They were a bit to large in circumference so I cut them down to size (see arrow) and used CA glue to hold them in place. NOTE: If you decide to use the clear plastic, do not glue it in, especially with CA (super) glue, as it will fog it up. I did use it (sparingly) to hold the washers in place, which in turn held the "lenses" in place. You may be able to hollow out the eye openings first for a more realistic look. I was going to try, but mine are Hyperfirms and I didn't know what it would turn out like. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 3, 2018 Report Posted December 3, 2018 11 hours ago, magni said: . And. need to weather it up more. ( I know Joseph ) You know me too well! Quote
kman[TK] Posted December 6, 2018 Report Posted December 6, 2018 Great job on the model! I can't wait to print one out and add a pair to my HWT, as my build gets ready finish up. 1 Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted December 7, 2018 Author Report Posted December 7, 2018 23 hours ago, kman said: Great job on the model! I can't wait to print one out and add a pair to my HWT, as my build gets ready finish up. Thx! Quote
Ru4scuba[TK] Posted December 7, 2018 Author Report Posted December 7, 2018 Next phase...playing around with weathering...in this case, charcoal powder after a quick hit with a sander on areas that would see wear and tear and show the metal underneath. Hard to say how much is too much. I've found that dusting the whole thing then brushing off thoroughly in flat areas gets the nooks and crannies dirty but doesn't overly do it....please let me know what you think. Bottom (I've already brushed out the streaks visible) Top Lenses Front I plan to hit it again this weekend and then hopefully finish it out with some hairspray to make it stick. After that, I'm going to add some washers to the eyepieces to make it a bit more realistic and then look for some leather strapping... 2 Quote
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