Callidus95 Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) So I recently purchased a DLT-19 Kit from 3DpropsNL on etsy. I'm currently awaiting the medium brown box. These are the pics of how a finished and painted kit looks on their page. My plan is to paint the stock either a black or gunmetal black, not sure yet and have varying amounts of wear on the different parts of the blaster/gun as on a real MG34, the parts are interchangeable in the field. I'm going use an aluminum-based gunmetal black, aluminum, and patina. I will potentially seal it all in a non-gloss clear coat. Edited October 28, 2018 by Darth Callidus Could not delete my clarifying reply 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callidus95 Posted October 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 (edited) This is a more detailed plan of how I intend to paint my DLT-19 My plan is to paint the stock a rubber black or as more of a mix between gunmetal and true black with wear along the edges in the gunmetal or aluminum. the ring near the stock will be aluminum paint. The Handle will be a mix between Gunmetal and true black with wear along the edges in the gunmetal, possibly mixed with aluminum. The majority of the remaining blaster will be a base coat an aluminum-based gunmetal black with weathering done in aluminum dry brushing, and some done with a mixed coat dry brushed on. My goal is to give it various amounts of wear on different pieces similar to that of a real MG34 due to the interchanging of parts. Thus the receiver will have medium wear, the heat shroud/cooling fans will have light wear, the flash hider/gas blowback will have light wear, and the Bipod will have heavy wear. The majority of the wear of this weapon is intended to look like it came from handling the weapon rather than from abuse, thus it will have more a faded look to it that implies it was caused by the oils in the skin rather than it being dropped and dragged. Although I will include wear on random parts that protrude to indicate some sort of physical abuse albeit minor, whether it was dropped or banged into something. After all my wear and tear is painted on I will patina it, to better fade in the wear as well as seal the finished product, and if it looks good on test strips of plastic, I will cover the patina in a non-gloss clear coat. Edited October 28, 2018 by Darth Callidus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 29, 2018 Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 Hi Jake, sounds like you made your homework and have exact knowledge of different weathering techniques. Can't wait to see you starting this project. Following... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callidus95 Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 the real trick will be seeing if I can pull it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callidus95 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 It ARRIVED!!!! I loosely put the parts together without glue for this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callidus95 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Got some parts glued others just in place. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Callidus95 Posted February 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 If you haven’t noticed. I forgot to actually photograph the building. But, my pieces are now glued on with e6000 glue and I’m getting ready to paint it tomorrow. Provided I haven’t forgot anything left to place and glue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 9, 2019 Report Share Posted February 9, 2019 Congrats on your DLT-19 kit purchase, Jake! Sounds like you have a plan, which is always a great idea... Not sure how far you are going screen accuracy wise, but note that all the stocks on the 4 known screen used ones were made of a brown(ish) Bakelite (a form of plastic), and the handles (grips) were black plastic, so I would be leery about adding handling marks ("metal" showing) in those areas. You may want to find a 1 inch (slightly conical) disc that was attached to the top of the grip as shown below. These were added for the films, and not part of the original MG-34. I can't see the fins up close, but they should be tapered at the ends with a notch to hold the wires in place. Looking forward to following the rest of your build!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tydirium1[TK] Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 I had considered buying one those myself. I had some reservations due to the 3D PRINTING. While it looks awesome , I was concerned about durability during trooping. Do you think it is something that you will have to handle with extra care ? Definitely the less expensive way to go compared to something like a Hyperfirm . Just wondering how much durability is lost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 10 hours ago, tydirium1 said: I had considered buying one those myself. I had some reservations due to the 3D PRINTING. While it looks awesome , I was concerned about durability during trooping. Do you think it is something that you will have to handle with extra care ? Definitely the less expensive way to go compared to something like a Hyperfirm . Just wondering how much durability is lost. There are both good and "not so good" aspects of 3D printed ones. The good is that they can be relatively inexpensive, are VERY light and the details are nice. The "not so good" is that yes, they can be somewhat fragile, and depending on which printer you use they can take a LOT of prep-work. When I received my kit (not the same one as shown above) each piece was covered with pretty heavy print lines. I figure I have about 12-15 solid hours worth of sanding and filling involved, as I wanted each one as smooth as glass (I'm kinda' OCD that way). I drilled out the entire center and reinforced it with a 5/16ths aluminum rod to help with durability. It still seems a bit fragile, but I only use it with my Hero armor and since I don't troop in that much it's mostly for display. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tydirium1[TK] Posted February 10, 2019 Report Share Posted February 10, 2019 That's kinda what I figured. Maybe I'll get one just for display. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helotech[TK] Posted September 18, 2019 Report Share Posted September 18, 2019 Hey, I just found your thread and will be following closely. I also purchased a DLT-19 from 3D Props as well as blaster units from TRamp. I ordered in June and am still waiting for the order. It has been of 3 1/2 months. I queried him at the 10 week mark and he said he was working on it, but no new emails have been answered. How long did it take for you to get your order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helotech[TK] Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Jake I just received my 3d0Prop DLT yesterday and will be starting a thread soon. Did you receive any sort of instructions on how to put the sucker together? I have a ziplock baggie filed with what seems like 30 or 40 small parts, and I have no clue on where they go. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 3 minutes ago, Helotech said: I just received my 3d0Prop DLT yesterday and will be starting a thread soon. Did you receive any sort of instructions on how to put the sucker together? I have a ziplock baggie filed with what seems like 30 or 40 small parts, and I have no clue on where they go. Awesome to hear, Dave! (Every Hero should have a DLT-19)! When you start your thread, post up some photos of the various parts and we can let you know what goes where. If the 3D parts have print lines, they are a LOT easier to fill/sand down before gluing (trust me). I have built several, so PM me when you get the thread started and I can follow it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helotech[TK] Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Ah... my go to trusted Joseph helping again I totally agree about the Hero. LOL I only managed a cursory look at the parts last night. I will be laying it all out tonight and taking detailed photos and doing the post. This is my first time working with anything 3D printed, so it will be a learning curve. I actually thought the ridges would be worse, but they look very manageable. Eelco definitely does good work. To top it all off I ordered Blast FX systems separately for the DLT and my E-11. I could have had Eelco install them when I ordered the DLT, but it was pricey enough as is. So I will have to contend with all that as well. I've mentioned before that I build models for a hobby and am used to parts clean up before assembly. I always have to take my time doing it, so this won't be any different, just on a Much larger scale. Leaving work now! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 15 hours ago, Helotech said: Ah... my go to trusted Joseph helping again I totally agree about the Hero. LOL I only managed a cursory look at the parts last night. I will be laying it all out tonight and taking detailed photos and doing the post. This is my first time working with anything 3D printed, so it will be a learning curve. I actually thought the ridges would be worse, but they look very manageable. Eelco definitely does good work. To top it all off I ordered Blast FX systems separately for the DLT and my E-11. I could have had Eelco install them when I ordered the DLT, but it was pricey enough as is. So I will have to contend with all that as well. I've mentioned before that I build models for a hobby and am used to parts clean up before assembly. I always have to take my time doing it, so this won't be any different, just on a Much larger scale. Leaving work now! I found that this product really helped. Some serious sanding with 100 grit, then a few light coats, then more sanding, more coats until I got down to 320 grit. Came out smooth as silk. One thing that will come in VERY handy is silicone sanding sheets. You can bend, twist and do what you like to it and it will not tear. It's a bit pricier than regular sandpaper, but well worth it. To find it just Google 3M Sandblaster Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets. I used just one sheet to do an entire TK build and a blaster build and it's still good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helotech[TK] Posted January 18, 2020 Report Share Posted January 18, 2020 I'm bumping this info to my thread so I don't hijack poor Jakes thread. Thanks Joseph! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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