AP Armour - Trimmed - ANH Centurion - First Build Thread

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

10 minutes ago, ABS80 said:

Like stated if the bicep parts will fit without the raised ridges you should completely trim them off to match movie original and overall look

Yeah, they don't fit without the raised edges, but I think I've figured out my solution for that. I'm now trying to figure out if I should taper the gap from the lower to the upper parts of the forearms, or not. I didn't explain it well, so what I'll do is cut some 15mm strips, clamp them on for both options, and post them back up here. It may help with that visual.

 

4 minutes ago, ABS80 said:

BTW  for the strips the glossier white should be face up,

Phew. That's what I've been doing as it just looks nicer hehe. Thanks, Mark!

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

1 hour ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Regarding your “tapering” from the wrist (to accommodate your hands) to a tighter fit by the forearm- it sounds this would make a more “snug” fit. I’m curious as to how large the gap at the wrist end would be in comparison at the forearm. If it’s just a matter of a couple mm between the two, I’d keep the gap the same, So that your cover strips stay the same. Otherwise if it’s a big difference and you cut a 15mm strip, you’d see the strip covering part of the gap by the wrist and fully covering the gap by the forearm. Send the pics and we’ll tell you which works best.

 

Here's the size of the ridge that would be there if i kept it consistent from lower to upper forearm. There would be about 5.5mm or ridge visible on both sides of the cover strip for the entire length of the forearm.

 

And here is what I mean about a "tapered" approach. It would have 5.5mm of ridge at the lower part (close to the hand), and then 0 ridge by the upper part:

 

Thanks for all of the help, everyone. It may not seem like it, but it's coming along! haha

 

 

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

1 hour ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Also, do you have return edges at your wrists still? At the higher levels, you need to remove the return edges at the wrists.

Here's a photo of the opening closest to the wrist. The kit came pre-trimmed, so there isn't a return edge, though I could probably shave it down another mm or so.

[TheSwede[TK]]

I’ll eco Matt - keep it uniform and go wider on the coverstrips

[wook1138[TK]]

19 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

If I don't angle it, it won't fit as well in the upper area, but I could also pad that. I feel like this is the right way, but just wanted to check to see if others ran into this while I browse the forums.

I wouldn't angle it - it would look funny.  Padding does a great job of keeping things fitting nice.  All depends on how much room you have - I had the opposite issue - large at the wrist and tight at the elbow.  I was able to get away with reshaping the elbow end a bit with a hot water bath. 

 

Are you planning to use inner coverstrips on your arms?  This helps strengthen areas where the seams are not butted up against each other.

 

The build is looking great.

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

On 11/27/2018 at 10:45 AM, wook1138 said:

Are you planning to use inner coverstrips on your arms?  This helps strengthen areas where the seams are not butted up against each other.

Yes. I've actually set the forearms and the biceps now and added the inner cover strips and everything seems to be fitting quite snug.

 

I'm looking up elastics to buy online and could use some help. I've seen some resource threads, and found this information:

Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

 

What I would like to know is, if you buy a pack of 2-inch wide elastic, can you cut it to a 1-inch wide? or will it cause the elastic to fray and fall apart?

[TheSwede[TK]]

41 minutes ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

What I would like to know is, if you buy a pack of 2-inch wide elastic, can you cut it to a 1-inch wide? or will it cause the elastic to fray and fall apart?

Depending on the quality it might work but I wouldn´t risk it, I actually just took some 2 inch and cut it in half to try and it seemed ok but have no idea for the longterm so I recommend getting 1inch  

[Suspend]

On 11/26/2018 at 8:14 PM, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

Here's a photo of the opening closest to the wrist. The kit came pre-trimmed, so there isn't a return edge, though I could probably shave it down another mm or so.

Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.  After I glued on my cover strips and let things set for several days, I did a hot water bath of the forearms to round out the opening at the elbow.  This really helped to relax the tightness on my forearm muscle and made it fit my arm shape much better.

 

Mark

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looking great, Mark!  Since you are aiming for Centurion (), you will need to take out all the return edges off of the wrist, especially in the "bump" area.  Note the complete absence of one on all sides in the screen used one in the photo on the right.  2 minutes with a Dremel and you will be golden!

                                                                                                         Reference image

   

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

It's been awhile since my last update, but I've done quite a bit. This little guy has been helping me out!

 

BICEPS:

I attempted the 15mm cover strips on the biceps, thinking that I could keep them uniform with the forearms, but when I took a step back and looked in the mirror, the light would really bounce off those exposed ridges, so I decided I needed to cut them down as much as I possibly can. I cut the strips wider, and though there is still a little ridge exposed, it's not nearly as bad as it was before.

 

Here are some shots of the finished biceps

 

 

FOREARMS:

I also finished up the forearms and got them to use the standard size cover strips. They are fit just perfectly along my entire forearm. I haven't shaved down the return edge around the wrist just yet, but I will do that soon.

 

 

LEFT SHIN:

The shins were fun and I'm learning that every single piece requires a LOT of research. The Sniper Knee required a little bit of improvisation so it looks a little less crooked, but I think it turned out quite well.

   

 

RIGHT SHIN:

 

 

LEFT THIGH:

 

I have to get the heatgun or hot water bathe the little gap shut at the bottom.

 

RIGHT THIGH:

  

I still have to paint the rivet white, but I think it turned out well. 

 

THERMAL DETONATOR:

This wasn't too hard to do. I painted the tube, dried it almost immediately with my heatgun, then followed Uswrath's thread on here to finish it up. The tape is just holding the white piece on while the glue dries. I then touched up some paint and it's now drying. I'll add some finished photos soon!

  

 

BUTTON PAINTING:

So I had a good lesson in how NOT to paint buttons. I tried doing it all at once in one thick layer. It ran everywhere and ended up like this:

 

 

I cleaned it completely and did it over two thin layers and it's much better. I still need to clean up the edges a little, but it's getting there.

 

HANDGUARDS:
Okay, looks like I need some help here. I tried glueing the rubber handguards I got from the AP kit onto the gloves supplied in the AP kit with e-6000, and it didn't stick at all. After 24 hours, it just fell off when I removed the tape holding them on. This was the result:

 

I tried removing all of the glue, then using CA glue. That didn't work. Then I tried using CA glue with an activator and that didn't work either.  That's why the left glove looks like it has a smaller amount of glue on it. I was experimenting with that one. I tried washing everything, roughing it up with sandpaper too. Nothing is working. Heeeeelllp.

 

Thanks for reading and all of the help!

Edited December 17, 2018 by Mr_Fahrenheit

[Rat[TK]]

For the hand guards do they have cloth backing? I got mine from Joseph and had no issues with em, but they have a layer of duck cloth imbedded in them. I just rough up the gloves a bit and no issue.

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[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

41 minutes ago, Rat said:

For the hand guards do they have cloth backing? I got mine from Joseph and had no issues with em, but they have a layer of duck cloth imbedded in them. I just rough up the gloves a bit and no issue.

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
 

No, they are just rubber with no cloth backing. Very smooth/slippery to touch. I tried sanding the backs a bit but it didn’t do much, if anything. 

[wook1138[TK]]

4 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

 

HANDGUARDS:
Okay, looks like I need some help here. I tried glueing the rubber handguards I got from the AP kit onto the gloves supplied in the AP kit with e-6000, and it didn't stick at all. After 24 hours, it just fell off when I removed the tape holding them on. This was the result:

 

I tried removing all of the glue, then using CA glue. That didn't work. Then I tried using CA glue with an activator and that didn't work either.  That's why the left glove looks like it has a smaller amount of glue on it. I was experimenting with that one. I tried washing everything, roughing it up with sandpaper too. Nothing is working. Heeeeelllp. 

 

Thanks for reading and all of the help!

I used loctite plastic bonding system.  Worked like a charm.  Other companies make the same product - I've used a couple different ones.

 

Edited December 17, 2018 by wook1138

[wook1138[TK]]

By the way - awesome progress so far!  Looks great!

Edited December 17, 2018 by wook1138

[Rat[TK]]

I couldn't remember where I had seen the solution to this issue. Thanks for filling that in.

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[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

2 hours ago, wook1138 said:

I used loctite plastic bonding system.  Worked like a charm.  Other companies make the same product - I've used a couple different ones.

Damn, I read that on a few threads too and was hoping I didn’t have to buy more stuff.... buuuut if I must! Thanks for the tip!

 

2 hours ago, wook1138 said:

By the way - awesome progress so far!  Looks great!

Thanks!

 

12 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Loctite will do the trick. I have the same kit and had the same issues with the gloves. Loctite also dries very quickly.


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Thanks! Actually, come to think of it, I’d get a lot of use out of this for my 3D prints. I’m even thinking of 3D printing my entire blaster, if I can find the files for free/cheap.

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

2 minutes ago, Rat said:

I couldn't remember where I had seen the solution to this issue. Thanks for filling that in.

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
 

Yeah, I think I’m just going to continue using this thread as a progress/question dump, then when I’m done, actually organize everything and create another, fully linked thread with all of the problems and solutions I came across. Maybe it’ll help some others!

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

Actually, anyone from Canada know where I can buy that kind of loctite? Can’t seem to find it online.

 

There’s glue from LePage that keeps popping up in search results, anyone know if this is good, or have recommendations on a different brand?

[wook1138[TK]]

Actually, anyone from Canada know where I can buy that kind of loctite? Can’t seem to find it online.
 
There’s glue from LePage that keeps popping up in search results, anyone know if this is good, or have recommendations on a different brand?

I’ve used lepage’s stuff from Canadian Tire. Works just as well.


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[TheSwede[TK]]

When glueing the handguards use very little glue, actually alot less then you think. When glueing my first set it didn´t want to set and I was frustrated, then remembered reading on Trooperbay "use sparingly" and voilá!  worked a treat and I used Loctite superglue

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

Thanks for all the tips everyone. I bought some of the LePage Plastic glue from Rona, and hot damn this stuff works fast! It worked extremely well and fast and I even F'ed up a bit and some glue spilled over on the gloves. I've been cleaning it off slowly so it's looking normal again. I'll post a picture soon, but I'm glad it's another piece down.

I've also glued the ab button plates on, but now I'm stuck and need heeeeelp.

 

I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT TO DO NEXT!!

 

I have the legs, arms and helmet done, so next is the ab, chest, back, butt, belt. I measured and taped the ab to the kidney piece and it fits well (it came trimmed), but the rivets and snaps and straps.. I keep seeing different options and not complete tutorials. Not sure if I should use popper snaps, line 24 snaps, tandy line 24 snaps, chicago screws, etc... For me to understand this, I kind of need to see one method, start to finish, so I can see how it all fits together and I'm having trouble finding that.

 

Are there any good video tutorials out there that show these steps in extreme detail? I've watched the TrooperBay videos, and the PandaTroopers ones, and I'm finding a lot of examples in threads, but I still feel like I'm missing a certain piece of information. I may need to meet up with someone to see their amor for myself. Anyone in Vancouver and have some free time?

 

100% movie accuracy on the inside of the armor isn't too important to me for this first build, so I'm looking for whatever is the easiest and most durable. Once it's complete, I'll probably refine my armor over time, or improve it on a second build. 

I have nylon straps on their way, plus all the elastics. Should be here by Thursday. My AP kit came with some rivets and snaps i can use, but I still have to do all the internal stuff. Someone tell me what to dooooo. What should I start next? If I have the nylon straps, what kind of snaps should I buy? I think the Tandy snaps seem to be the preferred ones.

 

Thanks!

 

Edited December 19, 2018 by Mr_Fahrenheit

[wook1138[TK]]

I used line 24 snaps in my TK build and the original bracket system in my TD build - both were AP kits.  The snaps are the most common method, IMO.  Using snaps with either nylon or elastic (you might want elastic in some areas for mobility) gives you a lot of options for adjustments.  It is a bit more work than the bracket system, but more durable and, quite frankly, more practical for maintaining.  There are some tutorials in the How To section for setting snaps.  I also showed my process in my builds.

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

3 hours ago, Bud Spaklur said:

So, for what it’s worth, I did the same as you- I watched those videos for reference. But, I followed Tony’s build thread (UKSWRATH) and Greg’s (Wooks) threads for detailed reference. I can’t remember yesterday, so kudos to Greg (Wook) for knowing his exact snap count for his thread. Yes, Tandy snaps are preferred. As for seeing the few options out there, well that’s due mainly to preference. Some people use snaps to hold everything together, some use brackets...some have the torso held together by Velcro. I used mainly brackets for the entire clamshell, with rivets along the left side. I used snaps for the shoulder bells and for the right side of the ab closure.

 

As for how to make snaps- this was foreign to me as well. I can barely sew a simple stitch, let alone snap setting. There are many videos on YouTube you can search for how to set snaps. This is what I did as I never had done it before. It’s fairly easy. Same with rivets. Had to learn from YouTube vids. Just do a search and you’ll find many.

 

As for what to do next, I mean, that’s up to you. At some point it’s all gotta get done, so pick something to tackle and work on it.

 

 

Here’s what I did for the entire torso if it helps. I used Mr.NoStripes bracketing system. It’s movie accurate and easy to do:

Thanks for the detailed answer. Those pictures really help a lot. Maybe the thing that is confusing me is that mix of tandy snaps, elastic, stitching, brackets, etc... 

5 hours ago, wook1138 said:

I used line 24 snaps in my TK build and the original bracket system in my TD build - both were AP kits.  The snaps are the most common method, IMO.  Using snaps with either nylon or elastic (you might want elastic in some areas for mobility) gives you a lot of options for adjustments.  It is a bit more work than the bracket system, but more durable and, quite frankly, more practical for maintaining.  There are some tutorials in the How To section for setting snaps.  I also showed my process in my builds.

Ughhhh, hahah, I went and explored around and found this How To section you speak of. This is great, and I'm kicking myself for seeing this now. Looks like I have my reading cut out for me today. Good news is that I'm done work until the new year. I'm. Getting. This. Done.

 

While I spend my whole day reading, quick question for all; can Tandy snaps be set on elastic? or does it only work on Nylon? I see a lot of people stitching stuff into their elastic bands, and I ask because I would rather not have to stitch anything (but if I must, I must), and I still want to do what's best for mobility.

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

3 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Yes, snaps can get set in elastic. I didn’t stitch a single thing in my build (as I mentioned, I can’t sew). For extra durability, when setting snaps in the elastic strips, consider folding the elastic over onto itself and set the snap through the double layer of elastic. In this pic from my build thread, I folded this white elastic for under the shoulder bridges, to make it twice as thick.

The snaps I put into the torso to hold the chest lower on the ab, even though I had brackets, were set in elastic. I folded the ends of the elastic onto itself and set the snaps:

Ohhh that's good squishy. Thanks! Okay, ordering a bunch of those online. Thanks!

[Mr_Fahrenheit[501st]]

 

4 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:

“Good squishy?” Is that a Canadian thing or an autocorrect thing? Lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKRWV0yjqJ0 heh heh