aghoneim's ANOVOS TK - 1st build

[TheSwede[TK]]

11 hours ago, Rat said:

remove the return edge there and it is still accurate. I don't have a photo of the screen used armor to show you,

Having no return is approvable at all levels,  however it`s not screen accurate as seen below, ref pic from Lucas archives, you can clearly see the return, granted it`s minimal in some places and removed in order to level out the inside/outside thigh piece in the back so one can say that having a return is more accurate than not

 

 

Edited September 27, 2018 by TheSwede

[aghoneim[TK]]

Next update - sort of bouncing around on what to do next (while I wait to start sanding and gluing the limbs this weekend). 

 

Sanded the thermal detonator tube down and attached the caps using the boil method following ukswrath's guide. Here are some pics:

 

 

Had to be super careful when scooping up the caps from the boiling water. One of them I pressed too hard and heavily bent it in. But after fitting it on to the tube it took that shape and now it's like it never happened. Phew! 

 

Also, I wanted to take a look at the Anovos belt. I've been reading a lot how everyone has been swapping - to almost anything else. But I'll be honest, money is starting to get tight on this build project, so I may have to concede. However, before doing so, took a photo of everything with the belt together, what do you guys think?

 

 

The most noticeable difference from ukswrath's guide is that ... well the holster doesn't have upper mount screws. 

[Rat[TK]]

Next update - sort of bouncing around on what to do next (while I wait to start sanding and gluing the limbs this weekend). 
 
Sanded the thermal detonator tube down and attached the caps using the boil method following ukswrath's guide. Here are some pics:
 



 
Had to be super careful when scooping up the caps from the boiling water. One of them I pressed too hard and heavily bent it in. But after fitting it on to the tube it took that shape and now it's like it never happened. Phew! 
 
Also, I wanted to take a look at the Anovos belt. I've been reading a lot how everyone has been swapping - to almost anything else. But I'll be honest, money is starting to get tight on this build project, so I may have to concede. However, before doing so, took a photo of everything with the belt together, what do you guys think?
 

 
The most noticeable difference from ukswrath's guide is that ... well the holster doesn't have upper mount screws. 

I was really happy that they stopped building the belts and shipped them in kit form.

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

If you want to have the ends on the TD removable you can wrap some tape around the end of the pipe and then place the heated caps on, once it's cooled down you can remove the caps, then the tape and the caps will slip on easily.

 

Some add a dab of E6000 to secure them, I added a couple of angled ABS brackets to the insides of the end caps then ran elastic with Velcro on the ends to the brackets, can be a place to store some things, I normally carry my Working With Children Card in there in case I need to present it at an event (it's local law when you are with children that you hold a WWCC).

[TheSwede[TK]]

4 hours ago, aghoneim said:

well the holster doesn't have upper mount screws. 

That´s the Stunt-configuration. Hero has four and as most people build for a Stunt, they had to remove the upper screws and fill in the holes in the belt (unless you changed the whole belt)  ANOVOS listened and changed to the kit version which makes it easier

 

Edited September 28, 2018 by TheSwede

[Rat[TK]]

Yeah I think it was easier to make the belt a kit then to make the bucket change from stunt to hero.

That´s the Stunt-configuration. Hero has four and as most people build for a Stunt, they had to remove the upper screws and fill in the holes in the belt (unless you changed the whole belt)  ANOVOS listened and changed to the kit version which makes it easier:salute:

 

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[aghoneim[TK]]

8 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Some add a dab of E6000 to secure them

Are you familiar with anyone having them come off? I sort of figured that after they cooled they'd be pretty secure on the tube. 

 

8 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I normally carry my Working With Children Card in there

That's a very interesting point! Good thinking as well to hide a card in there! ... and now I'm thinking about whether my caps are removable or not ...

 

5 hours ago, TheSwede said:

That´s the Stunt-configuration. Hero has four and as most people build for a Stunt, they had to remove the upper screws and fill in the holes in the belt (unless you changed the whole belt)  ANOVOS listened and changed to the kit version which makes it easier

 

That is a great reference for the holster placement. I'm having some trouble finding reference materials for putting together the Anovos belt as is, any recommendations? Let me know if I just need to look harder (I seem to find more guides/threads on modifying it or using the Kittle belt).

 

Cheers

[aghoneim[TK]]

I did find this from a 2015 thread. 

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

1 hour ago, aghoneim said:

I did find this from a 2015 thread. 

 

I never used those measurements but that’s the general Idea. All the belts go together basicly the same way, what differs is what type of fasteners one uses. The thing to watch is the hight of the ammobelt and not to place the snaps to close to the raised edges on the ab. 

The method to get the belt to stay snapped in is to first set the middle (I used single cap rivets), snap the canvas to the ab, bend the ammobelt and mark were to put the outer holes through the ammobelt (you drill those holes beforhand) If you like some visual aid feel free to check my Hero-build  

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

*double post

 

Edited September 28, 2018 by TheSwede

[aghoneim[TK]]

Any tips for cleaning e6000?

I was reading acetone on a q-tip would work ok.


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[Rat[TK]]

Any tips for cleaning e6000?

I was reading acetone on a q-tip would work ok.


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Nooooooooo! DO NOT USE ACETONE! It will ear your armor. Your finger or a scrap piece of ABS will do just fine.

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[aghoneim[TK]]

Nooooooooo! DO NOT USE ACETONE! It will ear your armor. Your finger or a scrap piece of ABS will do just fine.

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Lol. Good thing I asked first!


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[Rat[TK]]

Indeed, you use acetone for making abs paste if that gives an idea for the damage it can do.

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

E6000 will normally come off just by rubbing with a finger, thumb and cloth works, you can also use a rubber, to get into corners you can use a toothpick or scrap pieces of ABS.

 

 

[aghoneim[TK]]

11 minutes ago, Rat said:

Nooooooooo! DO NOT USE ACETONE! It will ear your armor. Your finger or a scrap piece of ABS will do just fine.

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Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

E6000 will normally come off just by rubbing with a finger, thumb and cloth works, you can also use a rubber, to get into corners you can use a toothpick or scrap pieces of ABS.

 

 

 

Hmm - also, in my head I thought that I could clean it off later ... now that it's slight hardened (just a few hours). Any tips for removing glue completely and trying again? I honestly just underestimated how much would squeeze out once you put the clamps on...

[Rat[TK]]

Same method as above.

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[aghoneim[TK]]

Just now, Rat said:

Same method as above.

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Cool! Rubbing it off then

 

Thanks!

[Rat[TK]]

No problem, just glad we averted a possible disaster.

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[aghoneim[TK]]

53 minutes ago, Rat said:

No problem, just glad we averted a possible disaster.

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I'm very glad, lol! - Thanks for being super quick to respond as well

[aghoneim[TK]]

Next update - hopefully nothing as dramatic as figuring out how to clean up glue!

 

Almost completed the belt. Minus holster installation, all single rivets, connection to Ab, and drop boxes have been installed and glued together. Sample pic:

 

Additonally, I've started working on strapping system, including installing poppers on Ab, and the first bits of nylon to connect Ab to kidney. 

 

 

 

Otherwise, waiting for biceps to finish their 48hr dry time. Then on to gluing the next one!

 

 

Edited October 1, 2018 by aghoneim

[aghoneim[TK]]

* accidentally hit enter and uploaded post too early

[aghoneim[TK]]

First bicep fully completed. Thoughts? 

 

 

... It looks a little messy ... 

 

 

I don't know if you can tell but I got glue sticking out on the sides of the cover strip and some glue markings on it as well. Is it possible to scrape the excess glue off without scratching the plastic? Other tips for cleaning this?

 

Thankfully I did a better job of cleaning the other bicep and forearms when gluing them...

 

 

[aghoneim[TK]]

Assuming you’re using E6000, it’s easy to remove. You can just use your finger and rub the excess glue. As for the gobs of glue in the cracks by the cover strips, you just have to pick at it. Tweezers, toothpicks, open paper clips...whatever you can use to get at the extra glue and pull it out, it’s fine. This happened a lot to me when I built my armor and had no issues removing the glue.


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Thanks! Just wanted to be double check. I wasn’t feeling confident that you could pick at the glue after it’s hardened..


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

It's very hard not to get some glue coming out from the sides of cover strips no matter how careful you are.

 

I find using a soft cloth is good to get it off on flat pieces, on the edges I use pieces of scrap abs, gets in to the corners nicely.

 

For any stubborn bits some polish normally will help to get it off