BigCara's ANH TK AP Build

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Almost there

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hey Trooper, looking good.   If I can make a suggestion. 

 

 

You may want to check the width of your drop boxes  according to the references  they seem a little thicker but i may be wrong, just checking..

 

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May be a light effect but  the ABS Belt square covers could be flatter with no return edge at all.

 

 

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Almost there , keep it up. 

 

 

 

 

[BigCara[TK]]

Hey Trooper, looking good.   If I can make a suggestion. 
 
 
You may want to check the width of your drop boxes  according to the references  they seem a little thicker but i may be wrong, just checking..
 
                                                                                                                                  Reference Images 
 
                   
 
 
 
May be a light effect but  the ABS Belt square covers could be flatter with no return edge at all.
 
 
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Almost there , keep it up. 
 
 
 
 

Thanks

Outer dropboxes are 14-15mm winners are around 12mm as fit flush inside when placed on a table.

Belt buttons have a slight return edge as rivet + washer didn't give me any space to have completely flat, even with trying to gently trim out inside with dremel.

Planning to replace the rivets with some 4mm long Chicago screws so it should fit better but that will be down the track when retail opens up again.

Thanks for the tips

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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Great to know they are in the correct range.  !! 

[BigCara[TK]]

3rd pair of gloves and 3rd fail.

Followed justjoseph's instructions. Used e6000 on this attempt with about 5 kgs of weight on them for more than 24hrs. Flexible hand guards just fell off, glues not adhering at all, glue adhered perfectly fine to the gloves which had been sanded.

1st attempt was superglue, 2nd attempt plastics glue with primer, all same result nothing seems to be wanting to adhere to the AP supplied hand guards.

Any suggestions?

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Hey mate, I used Zap-RT glue, which is a CA glue made for rubber parts (like tyres on model cars), so it bends and takes tension well. It worked a treat on Joseph's hand guards and those same rubber gloves.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153300826006

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[BigCara[TK]]

Hey mate, I used Zap-RT glue, which is a CA glue made for rubber parts (like tyres on model cars), so it bends and takes tension well. It worked a treat on Joseph's hand guards and those same rubber gloves.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153300826006

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Thanks, might see if i can get that in Australia. Shouldn't be this difficult. might try sanding the bottom of hand guards more.

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

For some hand guards I have had to use black silicon, seems some hand guards won't accept most glues 

[MightyAtom[TK]]

Thanks, might see if i can get that in Australia. Shouldn't be this difficult. might try sanding the bottom of hand guards more.

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I got it from a local supplier on eBay here in Aus. Good luck!

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

FYI - I also scoffed up the backs of my gloves a little before glueing, with 180grit sandpaper, from memory.

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[BigCara[TK]]

FYI - I also scoffed up the backs of my gloves a little before glueing, with 180grit sandpaper, from memory.

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Yeah did that and the glue adhered well on the gloves. Ordered the glue so hopefully Aust post is not too slow, so I can be finished by next weekend.

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Yeah did that and the glue adhered well on the gloves. Ordered the glue so hopefully Aust post is not too slow, so I can be finished by next weekend.

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Ha! Ah, yes, Aus Post have played a huge role in letting my glue cure for days while I wait for a spare part or two.

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[BigCara[TK]]

Does height of the back look ok, not too low?, first photo has 20mm longer straps.

 

Kinda look exactly the same don't they? Trying to get perfect before I glue shoulder straps in place.

 

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2nd photo looks like a slightly small gap between the back and kidney. As long as the elastic doesn't feel too tight and nothing is digging in you should be good to go.

 

I find marking should strap positions with tape is an easy way to get them sitting right when gluing. Normally there is the large tab and 4-5 small tabs on the front, but that is the ideal not an absolute must

[BigCara[TK]]

2nd photo looks like a slightly small gap between the back and kidney. As long as the elastic doesn't feel too tight and nothing is digging in you should be good to go.
 
I find marking should strap positions with tape is an easy way to get them sitting right when gluing. Normally there is the large tab and 4-5 small tabs on the front, but that is the ideal not an absolute must

Thanks, first definitely feels more comfortable.

Wife helped marking up with tape, large tab + 3 small tabs at front, only 2 overlapping at back

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[Sly11[Admin]]

How is the chest plate sitting with the current back plate position?  You always have a little room to move with fine adjustments.

[BigCara[TK]]

How is the chest plate sitting with the current back plate position?  You always have a little room to move with fine adjustments.

Since my last real fitting I extended the chest ab straps to move the chest plate up, now only about 10-15mm overlap of chest and ab.

With padding out of helmet, bottom of helmet now level with neckline, eliminating the big gap that was there before.

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[BigCara[TK]]

Straps glued. Time to wait for glue to dry, and delivery of glue to finish last piece, the gloves.

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Straps glued. Time to wait for glue to dry, and delivery of glue to finish last piece, the gloves.

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My two cents: give those shoulder bridges a couple of days to cure because of the wide area between the two pieces that will off-gas the glue solvent slower. I made the mistake of not allowing enough time and the bridges came unstuck. On the second attempt I let it cure for three days before removing clamps.

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[Sly11[Admin]]

1 hour ago, markgambino said:

My two cents: give those shoulder bridges a couple of days to cure because of the wide area between the two pieces that will off-gas the glue solvent slower. I made the mistake of not allowing enough time and the bridges came unstuck. On the second attempt I let it cure for three days before removing clamps.

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Good advice Mark I have seen that happen before.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Any areas which can have strain on them, shoulder straps, shins, stubborn alignment pieces and alike it's always best to wait at least 48 hours for E6000 to cure

[BigCara[TK]]

48hrs later, going to give more time given the glue for gloves hasn't arrived

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[BigCara[TK]]

3rd different type of glue for the hand guards. Same result, adhered perfectly to the glove not to the latex.

Guess I will try the black silicone suggestion.

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

3rd different type of glue for the hand guards. Same result, adhered perfectly to the glove not to the latex.

Guess I will try the black silicone suggestion.

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Do the handguards a have canvas embedded in the latex? Are they the AP latex handguards or Joseph's?

The ones (Joseph's) I glued last week with Zap-RT have canvas stuck to the latex and adhered to my gloves ok (see pics), but I don't know if RT will adhere directly to latex (I got both ABS and latex handguards with the AP kit).

I also did a repair job with a little white silicon glue on another set of gloves where the handguard (Joseph's) had lifted from the canvas, but the canvas was still stuck to the glove (with RT), which worked well.

Not sure if any of this helps, but it seems to be a matter of using a 'middle-man' between the latex handguard and the glove, with potentially two different glues.

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[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Yeah it may be time to break down and get Joseph’s hand guard and glove combo, which is what I have. Although I’m sure somebody will have a good solution for using your current materials.


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