Jump to content

Mupfel’s E11 Blaster Build (with Doopydoo’s Resin Kit + T-Jays Completion Kit + 3D Print Additions + Arduino Electronics)


Recommended Posts

Posted

Today, I decided to work on the scope. Last week my ordered Tramp Mini Scope arrived so I am very excited how and if it will work as expected!

Scope

First step was to use my beloved carving tools again. It is always a pleasure to see the results :-) .
w5qJNv6.jpg?1

To have enough space to hold the electronics, I sew the scope in two pieces.
The small piece will hold the lenses that came with the Tramp Mini scope and the body of the scope will contain the electronics of the mini scope.

AHdj5B5.jpg?1

9KgqPR7.jpg

5kKF4kC.jpg


To hold the lenses in place I added green stuff to it.


yF03U3p.jpg
TI6pyV4.jpg

 

Drilling the body of the scope

OKVaXPU.jpg

 

Adding the electronics

Yy7BvPC.jpg?1
VfJs9E8.jpg

xLPMbfY.jpg
 

Finally, I added a mini switch to the scope to be able to enable and disable the targeting for the blaster.

HAVFaDA.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

@James Whitley, just got an answer from  Apex Gun Parts. They do not send to any other country as the US.

 

What do you think, can you help me :-)?

Edited by Mupfel
Posted

Unfortunately No.......

 

But You might want to look at the Sterling MG Airsoft rifle, they might ship to Germany. 

 

 

Posted
18 hours ago, Mupfel said:

xLPMbfY.jpg

Scope looks great so far, Marko.  :duim:

If you could place that display at the same location where the reticle lens is supposed to sit (see below), you would get a working magnification. Just an idea but I am not sure if there is enough space in the hollowed scope body, as I not yet had this display in hands.

27885565666_fa387a5ef6_b.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Wonderful work on the scope! Looking great! Keep up the great work! Intriguing to see Paul's mini scope display installed, I only have the main BlastFX unit

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Thanks for your time and reading!

 

Another day of work at the blaster is done, but before i will show you the results, i need to ask you guys for your opinions and some questions.

 

@T-Jay, thanks for the hint, but unfortunately i cannot move the display deeper into the scope as the driver borad is too big for it. Have a look.

Thanks again for the quick help with the screws!!

FUQcJUn.jpg

 

How did you guys mount the end cap clip onto the blaster? What did you use?

What material did you use for the scroll spring of the end cap clip and where did you get it from, to push back the clip of the end cap clip?

 

What do you think about the following?

N3u2ASh.jpg?1

 

I'd like to remove the original small lense and add the one from T-Jays kit. I know, it is not genuine, but it looks much more realistic.

 

 

 

Edited by Mupfel
Posted
On 9/22/2018 at 9:51 AM, Mupfel said:

(...) @T-Jay, thanks for the hint, but unfortunately i cannot move the display deeper into the scope as the driver borad is too big for it. Have a look.   (...)

Understood. What a shame. Would have been awesome however.

 

On 9/22/2018 at 9:51 AM, Mupfel said:

(...)   Thanks again for the quick help with the screws!!   (...)

No problem. Anytime.

 

On 9/22/2018 at 9:51 AM, Mupfel said:

(...)   How did you guys mount the end cap clip onto the blaster? What did you use?   (...)

You can use CA glue, E6000 or a combination of both. In some cases even green stuff can work like an adhesive.

 

On 9/22/2018 at 9:51 AM, Mupfel said:

(...)   What material did you use for the scroll spring of the end cap clip and where did you get it from, to push back the clip of the end cap clip?   (...)

You can use a thin piece from a sheet of spring steel (like in the picture below), or cut a small spring from a ballpoint pen to shape.

End%20Cap%20Clip%203_zpsgpr2i5u3.jpg

 

On 9/22/2018 at 9:51 AM, Mupfel said:

(...)   What do you think about the following?

N3u2ASh.jpg?1

I'd like to remove the original small lense and add the one from T-Jays kit. I know, it is not genuine, but it looks much more realistic.

Well I have come across a few original scopes with some sort of 'enhancement' on the small lens. It was only the ribbed section though, but looked like simply screwed onto the front end. Here is an example. Maybe Brian @Bulldog44 can chime in and tell us more...

  • Like 2
Posted

Yes, as Tino mentioned there were modified scopes it seems with added lens attachments, some modified internally to make them into microscopes. But the smaller end lens housing (cylindrical part sticking out) was never removed, just those attachments added using the threading on the inside. I know the feeling to want to add realism as much as possible but I would keep the scope end original and try to add just the lens. 

 

You can can give it a try though if you want to and order another resin scope from doopy if you decide to go the other way. That’s what I did. I ordered a second scope just in case I destroyed mine during the hollowing process. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks a lot for your inputs, thoughts and answers!

I need to rethink about the scope lensing house. Both ways are good to go here!

 

This evening i am trying to give an update to the build itself.

 

Cheers :-)

 

Posted

On the last day of my vacation I worked on the End Cap Clip. As many other blaster builders before, I did not have a pin with the right diameter . After searching in the basement I found a cable mount with a nail, which fit perfectly. I used the cutting disc of the Dremel and shortened the nail down until the right size was reached.
For the scroll spring I used a ballpoint pen , thanks for the hint again, Tino!

 

xRlTk8y.jpg?1

d5bfDHA.jpg?1

QQncDho.jpg?1

t0LWEf7.jpg

 

 

The next step I worked on was mounting the grip to the riffle.
As the trigger switch needs to be connected to the Arduino mainboard, a hole needs to be hollowed out.

The grip itself has been mounted with one screw, provided by T-Jays pack and on screw pin at the end of the grip, to stabilize it.

deO5Tty.jpg

do2L6gk.jpg?1

6xNvXec.jpg

 

To be able to get more stability on the scope, I will add some pins when the cut scope lens housing will be add again to the scope. Therefor I doubled the thickness of the lens housing.

UX4amRD.jpg

 

At the end I started with rasping down the resin at the place where the front sight sits.

 

FdwV5Ii.jpg

 

 

Here you can see the current progress of the blaster

 

bqT1JoE.jpg?1

 

 

Again, thanks for watching and commenting.

 

  • Like 4
Posted

Excellent progress! Your end cap clip has really come along, way to go. Your dove tail for the front sight is looking spot on too! Wish you all the best in next steps regarding the grip; intrigued to see how you will go about installing the trigger ... much build fun awaits you!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Posted

That’s coming on really nicely. Looking forward to the next update. :-)

Just a little thing I noticed: if you are going for out and out accuracy, the rear foot of the scope usually lines up with the coach bolts for the folding stock. Example below;

845f8a5af40120552e6038c30bfd1b22.png

8137e1dbcdcf4c285dc948063ec5e709.png

Keep up the good work. :-)

Dan

  • Like 1
Posted

Your latest progress looks really good, Marko.

As mentioned by Dan, I also would suggest to move the scope a bit towards the rear sight. Your completion set contained the earlier version of finished scope rails with this flaw. The new rails got improved and the mounting holes repositioned. You can fill the wrong holes with green stuff and drill new ones.

 

Good job done on the end cap clip as well. If not yet installed on your receiver tube, you might want to trimm the edges a bit to look more like this:

End%20Cap%20Clip%20-%20Side_zps2c7yai4l.jpg

 

Can't wait to see your dovetail mod for the front sight. :duim:

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Today i had to repair some parts on my TK and it was finished earlier than i expected, so i did the corrections as you recommended.

This weekend a big event in the south of Germany takes place ... really looking forward to it.

 

I think I do not need to explain what i try to fix here :-), everybody struggles with those, right? :-)

n2yDYn5.jpg

 

 

The End Cap Clip is now smooth like a baby skin :-)

yqEBCeo.jpg?1

 

 

Before i drilled new holes for the scope for repositioning, i double checked the position. Obviously, the picture i posted before showed a wrong viewing angle, just have a look. I think, it has the right position. What do you think?

nviamR1.jpg?1

 

 

 

Thanks for your time :-)

 

Edited by Mupfel
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As we had a rainy day today, i spent some more time on the blaster.

 

Before I go on can somebody please confirm, if the scope has the correct position on the scope rail?

nviamR1.jpg?1

 

The focus of today was again on the scope itself. My brother got me on the idea, to add an additional red led in the scope.

 

jJexo7j.jpg

PB77VU9.jpg

 

In addition to that, I hollowed out the lens housing to add the lens which came with the set from Tino.

 

CBZuh6c.jpg

PYryKQy.jpg

 

To stabilize the lens holder, I added two pins to it.

 

nf2M3M1.jpg

 

Thanks for reading!

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Mupfel said:

(...)   can somebody please confirm, if the scope has the correct position on the scope rail?   (...)

nviamR1.jpg?1

Sorry Marko, looks like I missed to reply earlier. You can align the rear foot of the scope to sit above the folding stock hinge. In other words, just move that scope 3cm closer to the rear sight. ;)

Great idea with the red light inside the scope. Excited to see this working... :duim:

  • Like 1
Posted

No need to excuse :-)...

Thanks for the information, will move it as you described.


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Posted

I had some free minutes that i spent to go on with the scope electric. At the end, i found out that the LED i used is not bright enough :-(5mm, cristal clear). The reason for this is the current the battery has. It is operating on 3.7Volts but the LED has a range from 4-6Volts. Thought that it would be bright enough, but it is not.

 

But check on your own...

 

am2HBPp.jpg?1&key=a47d824ba5a92d931494c4670523ff11f58b191ecc39d97dcbf08e1df4471ab6

YolOqN7.jpg&key=4589cd08753806ebb75aaf2b3abe138720ce0239902f3763791ddc8bcf030ea9

 

As everytime, thanks for reading and commenting! :-)

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Mupfel said:

YolOqN7.jpg&key=4589cd08753806ebb75aaf2b3abe138720ce0239902f3763791ddc8bcf030ea9

Not bright enough? What you ended up with, looks perfect to me. Like the Terminator's eye. ;)

Seriously, you are not installing a laser pointer. You just want red light inside your scope. And it looks superb on that photo. :duim:

Posted

Thanks, you are right, on that picture it looks great, but, if you look on the scope from a different angle, you cannot really see the light.
Just check the picture above the one you quoted.
The light is on, but you cannot see it.

Once i have the brighter led, i will do a comparison.


Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Posted

While i am waiting that i get the brighter LEDs, i startet to work on the Hengstler counter. Adding the screws from T-Jays pack, filled the bubbles and holes with green stuff and sharpened down the edges...

I know, there is one screw stil missing, but i need to know until the green stuff dried.

wYTIdXO.jpg

TWFkefT.jpg

Posted

Wow - great progress on your Hengstler Counter. The brass screws are looking marvelous and your green stuff applied will make a difference in the final look, great work so far.

 

Curious to know how you will go about installing some electrical components. I've seen people hollow out a portion of the counter window to accommodate the display screen - in your case, perhaps the bar graph component will go there, or a window large enough to accommodate both?

 

30333358567_d4f74de97a.jpg

 

45272300521_83539602a8_z.jpg

 

Keep up the fine workmanship, Marko :duim:

Posted

Thaniks man, yes, filling all the gaps and holes with green stuff is a very long and boring work! But you are right, at the end the look will be great.

 

The bar graph i will put here:

RAvWiX1.jpg

The power indicator bar will be put in the counter bar.

 

Today i was able to finish the scope and the electrics. Now, the LED is bright enough to be seen from a different angle than just the front.

 

9Yjbvx5.jpg

qitELC1.jpg

IMNW3q3.jpg

 

Video on how the Scope works;

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...