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Posted (edited)

Hi folks:

 

Finally had a moment to get some photos of my RS Propmasters ANH Stunt armor.  I'm definitely learning that once you get all suited up, it's really hard to ensure that everything is straight/symmetrical. I realize in hindsight that the bicep pieces are a bit uneven (not assembled that way, just the way they were resting), but that shouldn't be a big deal.  As requested:

 

First/Last Name: Jim Raley

Future Garrison: Golden Gate Garrison

Armor Maker: RS Propmasters (full commission; they did the build)

Height: 5'10"

Weight: 160

TK Type: ANH Stunt

 

Front View (arms down)

 

kwvOty0.jpg

 

Back view (arms down)

 

YoKFGAD.jpg

 

Left side (arms raised)

 

e4pLjJ6.jpg

 

Right side (arms raised)

 

HkRuQom.jpg

 

Ab plate

 

2Rarby9.jpg

 

Helmet front

 

oI4uIGO.jpg

 

Left

 

T98AWSz.jpg

 

Right

 

doSwsYv.jpg

 

Thanks in advance, everyone, super pumped to be a part of this community!

Edited by Actionsdower
Posted

I couldn't say that I am an expert in noticing little things, but yeah it seems one arm is too high or one is too low. Also you haven't painted your bracket screws yet. Other than those two things looks good for basic approval.

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Posted
I couldn't say that I am an expert in noticing little things, but yeah it seems one arm is too high or one is too low. Also you haven't painted your bracket screws yet. Other than those two things looks good for basic approval.

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I should mention that I didn't do the actual build; RS did all that. That said, I figured I'd have to make some minor tweaks. What are "bracket screws"?

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Posted
I should mention that I didn't do the actual build; RS did all that. That said, I figured I'd have to make some minor tweaks. What are "bracket screws"?

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Ah okay yeah I've heard there are usually small tweaks to be made with the commission suits. The bracket screws are these.4eab354116df592169035006c45a1dbf.jpg

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Posted

This a better view of what I'm referring to. These are on my chest where it connects to the ab plate. These should be white, I know mine are not but This was right after I put them in.90cddc1bd8259d2e9bf22fabe6d2e5eb.jpg

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Posted

That's some nice looking armor.  Congrats.  

 

I noticed a couple of minor things (aside for the bracket screws not being painted). 

You will probably have to paint the TD tube grey.  There is writing on it. 

For better fitting, you could pull your thighs up a bit, they are riding a little low.

If you can, slide your drop boxes out to the end of the plastic part of the belt.

Your right forearm is riding a bit high - not sure if you will have to adjust strapping or not.

The back of your shins are overlapping too much - or maybe it is the angle of the pic.

at some point you may want to shorten the straps that attache your shoulder bells to your shoulder strap.

 

Some of these are just dressing issues.  I'm not sure if the writing on the grey tube (TD) will be an issue for basic approval. 

 

These are pretty minor fixes.  I see basic approval happening very soon!

  • Like 2
Posted

Build looks really nice!

 

Only thing that stood out to me Is that you’ll need to move your drop boxes over to line up with the edges of the ABS belt.

 

From the CRL:

 

• The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt.

Posted

Agreed with everything Greg (Wook) said. You can keep your drop boxes aligned properly by securing the elastics to the canvas belt, either with glue or velcro.

Posted (edited)

Thanks for taking a look, everyone!

 

Those screws that have been mentioned are actually painted, I think it's just the bright sunlight on brilliant white armor that washes it out in the photos.

 

Thanks for pointing out the dropboxes as well; I had a feeling they weren't in the right place, but wasn't sure exactly where the "right place" was.

 

I've had ongoing issues with the thighs not hanging quite right; in the photos they're as high as they'll go (any higher and they overlap the codpiece).  The main issue I have with them is the belt that holds them; I get it strapped on and everything's A-OK.  But then as I walk around the belt gets rolled over, which drops one or both sides by an inch or so (this is actually visible here in my photos).  I can take care of this though with a new, wider belt.

 

The writing on the TD I just don't get.  Obviously it's made from electrical conduit, which has writing on it, but I don't get why they didn't just rotate it so the writing isn't visible.  Oh well, not too hard to fix.  Can anyone recommend a paint to use for this?

 

And finally, the way RS builds the arms these days, only the biceps and forearms are attached to each other; they do not attach to the shoulders.  So the arm pieces are just kind of "free floating", which makes it very easy for them to get misaligned.  This is one of the big things I want to fix after approval.

Edited by Actionsdower
Posted (edited)

How many teeth are cut out in the frown? I can't tell if it is 10 cut out, or if the paint has a gap and extends down the aide of the frown. 

 

Strapping the arms wont take you too long 

 

Edit*  It's your paint. Had to check on the pc. 

Edited by DamnitDavid
Posted

Basically everyone already hit on the points I noticed, so I just have a few things for future reference/your knowledge down the road that don't have to deal with approval but with wearing and maintenance of the suit:

 

It looks like the sniper plate is wanting to tuck under the thigh (I've seen this a bunch of times now, and dealt with it myself).  Our fix is to tape up a cheap washcloth and tape into the inside of the shin to punch it out just that little bit.  

 

In my experience, the RS brackets put a lot of stress on a semi-weak point, and can pull through, come out, or otherwise crack the areas they're connected to.  You can preemptively add extra strapping (like with snap plates and Tandy snaps) in those areas, mainly the chest/ab connections, but I'd also do it for the back/kidney connection, too.  

 

Good luck!

  • Like 1
Posted

Still relatively new to this, but I think your armor looks awesome! Only thing I see in addition to what everyone else has mentioned is that your shoulder bridges could be brought in a bit closer to your chest/back plate. Maybe by swapping out to some shorter connecting straps? Again, as pretty much everything else has been, this is a relatively minor and simple change that I doubt would affect your basic approval. You’re looking good!

Posted
Basically everyone already hit on the points I noticed, so I just have a few things for future reference/your knowledge down the road that don't have to deal with approval but with wearing and maintenance of the suit:
 
It looks like the sniper plate is wanting to tuck under the thigh (I've seen this a bunch of times now, and dealt with it myself).  Our fix is to tape up a cheap washcloth and tape into the inside of the shin to punch it out just that little bit.  
 
In my experience, the RS brackets put a lot of stress on a semi-weak point, and can pull through, come out, or otherwise crack the areas they're connected to.  You can preemptively add extra strapping (like with snap plates and Tandy snaps) in those areas, mainly the chest/ab connections, but I'd also do it for the back/kidney connection, too.  
 
Good luck!
I'm building an anovos kit and went this route but added extra material between the brackets and return edge.

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Posted

Hi Jim

Looking good.

I’d agree with the others and just add that the shoulder bells could be brought closer to your chest plate. Not sure why but RS always seem to leave the shoulder strapping about an inch too long on both sides when they do commissions. Simply shortening the strapping could help bring those in a bit and reduce the Black gap.

34ad504c9dfb1006293074a7a27dc2c4.png

A couple of minor tweaks and you’ll be cleared in no time. :-)

Dan

  • Like 1
Posted

Is it just me, or do these shoulder bells have a massive return edge on the bottom?

Posted
On ‎7‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 6:33 PM, Actionsdower said:

 

Back view (arms down)

 

YoKFGAD.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

I don't want to be "THAT GUY" but I hope you have a forgiving GML. The one thing that sticks out to me like crazy is this photo here. Your screws should be on the return edge, not the outside showing of the armor. I am not sure if this will keep you from Basic approval, but I KNOW you aren't gonna start there. you can take this armor all the way to Centurion! I would need the input of a more veteran trooper, but I have honestly never seen the screws in that location. There are other little things (easy fixes) that we can address after basic, you know, when you submit you EIB app, and can get you to that next level.

 

Also! with the TD, when you take off the brackets to paint it, make sure you move the brackets so that they touch both the end caps, and the "keypad". Just curious, did you paint the exposed parts of the snaps in the butt plate? cant see them too well but it does look painted. those parts should not be painted, but don't believe that will effect basic approval

Posted
13 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Hi Jim

Looking good. emoji1303.png

I’d agree with the others and just add that the shoulder bells could be brought closer to your chest plate. Not sure why but RS always seem to leave the shoulder strapping about an inch too long on both sides when they do commissions. Simply shortening the strapping could help bring those in a bit and reduce the Black gap.

34ad504c9dfb1006293074a7a27dc2c4.png

A couple of minor tweaks and you’ll be cleared in no time. :-)

Dan

Yeah this was bothering me as well. I spent probably 30 minutes in front of the mirror the other day trying to adjust the shoulders to minimize the gaps; if I fiddle with it it can look better, but as soon as I move my arms at all they migrate back to this position.

 

The strap is attached to the inside of the bell like so, with an adhesive.  Forgive the noobness, but what would be the best way to shorten the strap?  Obviously re-gluing it would be ideal, but how do I remove it without damaging the strap or the plastic?

 

p4OGOQF.jpg

Posted
2 minutes ago, Actionsdower said:

Yeah this was bothering me as well. I spent probably 30 minutes in front of the mirror the other day trying to adjust the shoulders to minimize the gaps; if I fiddle with it it can look better, but as soon as I move my arms at all they migrate back to this position.

 

The strap is attached to the inside of the bell like so, with an adhesive.  Forgive the noobness, but what would be the best way to shorten the strap?  Obviously re-gluing it would be ideal, but how do I remove it without damaging the strap or the plastic?

 

p4OGOQF.jpg

what I did was attach the snap right next to the shoulder, knowing that it was going to pull a little. one other thing you can do is completely remove that return edge. I wish I could show you in person, but what is it doing is causing the shoulder to "pinch" the bicep, and pushing it away from your body. if you take of the return edge it will allow the shoulder to fall closer to the bicep, thus pulling it in to your body.

Posted

Hi Jim

Do you have a picture of the other side or that elastic? Basically, where the popper is?

You could possibly move the popper, pinch and sew the elastic to make it a little shorter or attempt removing the glue.

Depends on what your working with really. :-)

  • Like 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

I don't want to be "THAT GUY" but I hope you have a forgiving GML. The one thing that sticks out to me like crazy is this photo here. Your screws should be on the return edge, not the outside showing of the armor. I am not sure if this will keep you from Basic approval, but I KNOW you aren't gonna start there. you can take this armor all the way to Centurion! I would need the input of a more veteran trooper, but I have honestly never seen the screws in that location. There are other little things (easy fixes) that we can address after basic, you know, when you submit you EIB app, and can get you to that next level.

 

Also! with the TD, when you take off the brackets to paint it, make sure you move the brackets so that they touch both the end caps, and the "keypad". Just curious, did you paint the exposed parts of the snaps in the butt plate? cant see them too well but it does look painted. those parts should not be painted, but don't believe that will effect basic approval

For the screws showing on the kidney - this is how the original RS suit looks.  It appears the screws got moved down during use (probably due to the weak return edge breaking).  I'm not sure if this is ever seen in the movie - but the reference suit as seen in the Gallery has this same detail.  It would be hard to argue that it is not passable, IMO.  Curious RS does this by default.

Posted
Just now, wook1138 said:

For the screws showing on the kidney - this is how the original RS suit looks.  It appears the screws got moved down during use (probably due to the weak return edge breaking).  I'm not sure if this is ever seen in the movie - but the reference suit as seen in the Gallery has this same detail.  It would be hard to argue that it is not passable, IMO.  Curious RS does this by default.

ah ok. thanks for that info. I honestly have never seen that. Love this forum as im always able to learn something new, along with passing what I have learned!

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Commander Gree said:

ah ok. thanks for that info. I honestly have never seen that. Love this forum as im always able to learn something new, along with passing what I have learned!

I had to make sure I wasn't imagining things. :)  here is the pic.  If the GML gives anyone grief...

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, wook1138 said:

I had to make sure I wasn't imagining things. :)  here is the pic.  If the GML gives anyone grief...

 

ok so just curious, that wasn't on every kit and was more of an on set fix right? so would that really fly here? or maybe just not for L2/L3? would be the same as the belt being too high/low even though it was in the photos from the film

Posted
1 minute ago, Commander Gree said:

ok so just curious, that wasn't on every kit and was more of an on set fix right? so would that really fly here? or maybe just not for L2/L3? would be the same as the belt being too high/low even though it was in the photos from the film

On set or even after.  Who knows.

 

I'm not entirely sure it would pass upper levels - best to ask a deployment officer for that.  I just think a person has a good argument if it does hit some resistance at basic.  You are right in that one occurrence of something does not make it ok or passable.  It is just that the RS suit is pretty much the Holy Grail of TK armor research here.  I give it more credibility / weight for that. 

 

In other words, I wouldn't go trying to fix it at this point.  And... I would even, politely, debate it with my GML if it wasn't passed. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, wook1138 said:

On set or even after.  Who knows.

 

I'm not entirely sure it would pass upper levels - best to ask a deployment officer for that.  I just think a person has a good argument if it does hit some resistance at basic.  You are right in that one occurrence of something does not make it ok or passable.  It is just that the RS suit is pretty much the Holy Grail of TK armor research here.  I give it more credibility / weight for that. 

 

In other words, I wouldn't go trying to fix it at this point.  And... I would even, politely, debate it with my GML if it wasn't passed. 

Good insight. Guess we will have to wait and see what happens. Regardless, hope we have a new trooper soon

 

  • Like 1

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