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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Ghollum said:

What ever works man.

Sent from my SM-J530F using Tapatalk
 

So true, it’s a really fun build to experiment on:)

 

And onwards we go...after some test I moved the front ”snaps” closer as there was a risk to get them tangled with the yoke comming down...I snapped them on and made a mark roughly were to drill and drilled a pilot hole and then the big one

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Testing...jepp it works

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Drilled away and strapping complete:smiley-sw013:

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Edited by TheSwede
  • Like 1
Posted

I've not seen that suspender arrangement before.  I can't wait to hear how it holds up 

Posted
2 hours ago, Daetrin said:

I've not seen that suspender arrangement before.  I can't wait to hear how it holds up 

I’ll report back after I took it to battle Sir:salute:

Posted

Well I set of to work on the bells but like many other times I shifted gear and decided to fix the  mounting for the TD. Most I’ve seem use a ABS support but I”m using aluminium, had a piece in order to make the shoulder brackets as per Tonys build (if you don’t know who I mean your on your own:smiley-sw013:) but then changed my mind and was going with Q:s ABS method (same applies here) but now I might do a hybrid between the two...but more on that later, it’s TD time:

I cut a piece that I thought would do the job

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I also made sure it would fit between the suspenders, they are actually some strechers for bed linnen or something (my wife knows, I got them from her:P)

Yeah the magnets are a mess in there...

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Then I snipped the corners and did some sanding

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Figured this was enough for a good bend

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Draw a line from the outside, put it in a wise and bend

 

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The final bend you can do with your grip and feel YEAH! I’m powefull!!

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After that display of power it was time to glue, mixning it on the plate itself

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The bend came out a bit crooked but all that matters, unless you have severe OCD which is fine, is to have the top straight.

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Now onto shoulders...after I’ve taken care of some laundry, Yepp using a work perk isn’t always a joy, I’m also washing the vests from gym-class and they stink:smiley-sw013:

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice work, I did find with my kit I needed a little bit of a curve in the bent section just so it sat a bit flatter. I found everything was a little snug once you have backplate and chest connected over the TD, a little thin foam or tape on the top of the TD will help stop some rubbing off of paint too ;) 

Posted
7 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, I did find with my kit I needed a little bit of a curve in the bent section just so it sat a bit flatter. I found everything was a little snug once you have backplate and chest connected over the TD, a little thin foam or tape on the top of the TD will help stop some rubbing off of paint too ;) 

You mean like this, if so I found that out too when wanting it to sit tight but I have snaps under the aluminium so figured that was the reason and I bent the corners in some:)

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Posted

After some cutting, hamering and bending and rebending I have my shoulder supports, gonna glue them in and then glue the abs tabs on.

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Posted
6 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

You mean like this, if so I found that out too when wanting it to sit tight but I have snaps under the aluminium so figured that was the reason and I bent the corners in some:)

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Exactly ;) 

Posted
21 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Exactly ;) 

Phew! ^_^ I was worried there for a second when I wasn’t sure what you meant:engel:

  • Like 1
Posted

Support brackets are in, they may be a tad to long but easy enough to cut of that should be the case I would like to do some more work but it’s been far to late for some time now in this part of the galaxy so that’s it for now:)

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  • Like 2
Posted

Glued the abs tabs on

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Working on the biceps and just because they are inner strips doesn’t mean they can’t look pretty:smiley-sw013:

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  • Like 1
Posted

Only the swede chamfers inner cover strips :laugh1:

 

Are you doing the velcro overlap on biceps/thighs?

Posted
57 minutes ago, Ensi said:

Only the swede chamfers inner cover strips :laugh1:

 

Are you doing the velcro overlap on biceps/thighs?

Well I made such a mess with the magnets in the back so feelt I had too:D

And I think I will glue them shut but haven’t decided yet - any ideas?

 

 

Posted

Biceps glued and sanded - both outside (paint-prep) and return edges, left a minimal all around were I could...some had to be removed altogether for it to line up.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, TheSwede said:

And I think I will glue them shut but haven’t decided yet - any ideas?

 

If you're going for centurion (which I suspect you are:D) it is a requirement :) 

 

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EDIT: They can also just be overlapped and glued without removing the seam. Maybe that was what you meant by gluing them shut? :) 

Edited by Ensi
Posted
9 hours ago, TheSwede said:

And I think I will glue them shut but haven’t decided yet - any ideas?

I have one set fully closed and the other set with Velcro, I find the fully closed doesn't seem to catch as much as the Velcro set bug that may not be the same for others ;) 

 

Coming along nicely

Posted
17 minutes ago, Ensi said:

 

If you're going for centurion (which I suspect you are:D) it is a requirement :) 

 

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Ah! I am but CRL says they can be fixed or functional so was doing the overlap but not sure if to use velcro or glue:) Also wording is a bit fuzzy, ”should be overlaped”..if it’s mandatory it should read: seam is to be overlaped - thoughts? 

Posted
3 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I have one set fully closed and the other set with Velcro, I find the fully closed doesn't seem to catch as much as the Velcro set bug that may not be the same for others ;) 

 

Coming along nicely

Thanks and yeah that’s my thought too and if they are glued they can’t (well atleast they shouldn’t ) come apart...velcro is screen accurate...still on the fence on what to use:)

Posted
23 minutes ago, Ensi said:

EDIT: They can also just be overlapped and glued without removing the seam. Maybe that was what you meant by gluing them shut? 

Jepp:duim:

Posted

Decided to go velcro to start with for the arms, and legs, that way I can size them more after wearing it a few times if needs be thus making the sizing process alot easier and allowing me to size them up or down as I see fit just making the overlap bigger/smaller by adjusting/replace the velcro....however….when I  taped up an inch ovelap and tried them on they were snug, I only removed the flashing so haven`t trimmed it down any and that felt wierd because all I`ve heard about this kit is that it`s massive..well it`s not. I had no problem with the limbs fitting when I tried them, thighs were about 2inch overlap on each side so plenty of room there, Shins a bit less but still ample room - not massive amounts though. Chest and back is unaltered meaning I left all I could, ab/kidney I cut 4 inches total and it fits snug around my waist. So this beeing a massive kit is simply not the best description, atleast in my opinion. Or the molds have changed but I don`t see why they would as he made the ab section taller to accomodate taller troopers, it seem strange that he would alter the width/girth….Aaaanyway I should get the bicep to work, I´ll see when I try them with the gaskets...whaaaat!! you haven`t?...no I haven`t as I haven`t trimmed anything other than the extra material:) My ego would be boosted if I needed to shim the biceps so not to unhappy after all:smiley-sw013:

What I have doen is to cut the pill-holes on biceps, smeared some paste, one side had tinner plastic so that`s why it`s such a mess...and I filled the seam on the ab/kidney using a stronger filler due to the pieces seeing some flexing when putting it on. Biceps are a test-subject with the paste, if I open the velcro to put on/of it might crack the seam but I wanted to experiment as I have faith in the abs-paste, they are easy enough to sand/refill and repaint if that happens.

 

It`s not finished yet but the stronger stuff hardens quickly so had time to rough sand that.

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  • Like 2

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