THG Props E-11

[Rat[TK]]

Gonna try and salvage this blaster I got from a future garrison brother into something useful. Gotta have something to take my mind off of how to rework my thigh issues.

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Rat, haven't seen a THG Props blaster before. Some parts look like copied from a DoopyDoo's kit (power cylinders, trigger guard), while others seem to be from different kits (magazine with clip, detailed front sight and extra muzzle).

 

The heavy seam lines and the solid area between folding stock and receiver tube make me wonder, if this blaster was made in a mold for rubber blasters. Is it all solid resin?

 

Guessing you will first sand the seam lines and then fill all air bubble holes with some epoxy?! A colored primer could then help to find the last weak spots.

A lot of work, for sure. But you could turn that thing into something. Keeping fingers crossed for this. Good luck.

Edited June 26, 2018 by T-Jay

[Rat[TK]]

So what I do know. THG Props is based out of Eugene OR and is cast from a Sterling, I could be wrong here, but is a solid rubber cast. So the blaster itself is a solid mold casting. It's a hard rubber but slightly malleable as there was and is some slight warping but is nothing that can't or won't straighten out on it's own.

What I don't know is what the extra pieces cylinders, scope, D-ring mount and extra tip are from or who. They were from a bag of spare parts he had. Some of them may be his own molds and others extras from other kits. This will eventually probably be known as "Frankenblaster". LOL!

Those are the known and unknowns to me right now.

Yes I will be sending and doing clean up on it and have decided I will need to invest in a carving set for the fine details. I'll probably do a black sandable primer and I already have some two part epoxy putty that will hopefully do the trick. I've also got the materials for the rail and counter mount as well as wire for the power cylinders. I'll most likely get a Doopy counter, unless there's a better option for it.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like you are well prepared for this build.

1 hour ago, Rat said:

(...)   I'll most likely get a Doopy counter, unless there's a better option for it.

Working on it. Feel free to drop me a PM when you get to this point...

[Bulldog44[TK]]

With some TLC you can get that blaster back on track for sure. Looking forward to seeing how you do on this. The casting certainly has issues with alignment and surface trouble but nothing a willing trooper can't fix. Good project to start on. I have a version one of the DVH kit before DDay started making them. The parts need a ton of cleanup and reworking but I am slowly starting to make progress. Going to turn it into a Bapty blaster.   

[Rat[TK]]

With some TLC you can get that blaster back on track for sure. Looking forward to seeing how you do on this. The casting certainly has issues with alignment and surface trouble but nothing a willing trooper can't fix. Good project to start on. I have a version one of the DVH kit before DDay started making them. The parts need a ton of cleanup and reworking but I am slowly starting to make progress. Going to turn it into a Bapty blaster.   

Yeah I'm just cleaning it up now.

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[Rat[TK]]

So what do you mean by alignment issues? I think most of the surface issues are small enough that I won't need to do much. But there are some spots. I still need to scrub it down too.

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

2 minutes ago, Rat said:

So what do you mean by alignment issues? I think most of the surface issues are small enough that I won't need to do much. But there are some spots. I still need to scrub it down too.

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Sorry, not meant to sound bad. It appears from the photos the seam line from the two part mold look a bit off perhaps but only a tiny bit. Could just be my eyes. You will know better after you remove those seam lines. 

[Rat[TK]]

Sorry, not meant to sound bad. It appears from the photos the seam line from the two part mold look a bit off perhaps but only a tiny bit. Could just be my eyes. You will know better after you remove those seam lines. 

Ah I see yeah it is a bit to one side, but it mostly alright so far as bubbles and defects go.

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Sorry for the false alarm then. Trooper eyes going bad.

[Rat[TK]]

Sorry for the false alarm then. Trooper eyes going bad.

I wasn't alarmed just wasn't sure what you meant is all. This is a first for me. I've been working on a rubies E-11, but it's no good for higher levels and I'm hoping for centurion. Here's where that is. It's been mostly for fun. It's not super accurate, but like I said it's been fun working on it.

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[Rat[TK]]

So I got a little more clean up done and some bits for my DLT, not doing a thread on that quite yet just starting to collect stuff.

Anyways some cleanup and made the scope rail. Not sure if it is me or if it is just off. It looks a little winky. I had to complete clean out the rear sights, but I think I left enough material to rebuild it.]

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

Okay, good progress so far.

 

For the scope rail I would suggest to bring the front end down a bit. If you get it parallel to the receiver tube below it, that would be perfect.

 

Depending on the material of your blaster kit, you might be able to correct the folding stock forks with a heat gun. Check the temperature and distance to avoid burning the material and keep the forks in position when cooling down. That should do the trick.

[Rat[TK]]

Okay, good progress so far.
 
For the scope rail I would suggest to bring the front end down a bit. If you get it parallel to the receiver tube below it, that would be perfect.
 
Depending on the material of your blaster kit, you might be able to correct the folding stock forks with a heat gun. Check the temperature and distance to avoid burning the material and keep the forks in position when cooling down. That should do the trick.

Unfortunately it's a cast hard rubber, so no heat gun.

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[Rat[TK]]

So here is a much better look at the rear sights and the clip release button. The original button was in bad shape so I decided to, to my best albeit limited ability, to create a new one. I also did the same with the rear sights.

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[Rat[TK]]

So I put in an order for a DD's counter. That should finish off my parts for when I get finished up with my armor and submit. Hopefully this blaster and my armor will be able to carry me into centurion as that is my goal.

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[Rat[TK]]

So on the left is my first attempt at a d-ring, the right is my second. Much happier with the second one.

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[Rat[TK]]

So there are some warping/bending issues, but I think this mostly due to the material. It is after all a hard rubber so when it warms up it gets soft. So with that said here are some of the problem areas and thoughts on how I can fix them.
Pic 1. Trigger guard, I think I've decided I will replace this with a metal one as I still have some left over from my scope rail and it seems to be about the right thickness. I have put some ca glue on it for a temp fix as it has torn at each end already.
Pic 2. Folding stock "Y" this seems to be the worst area. I was told some styrene would help stiffen it up. I also still have some scrap and from my armor kit I could use.
Pic 3. Front sights, I may leave them alone as they are the best of these areas and they do return to their shape fairly well.
Pic 4. The charging handle has lost its tip. I thought that perhaps some two part putty would help with this, but unsure how well it will work with the softening issues.
Pic 5. The rear sights have a lot of bubbling in them and I'm not sure if I should leave it, repair it with putty or replace it.

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Hi Rat, for the parts that are broken off or a bit beyond an easy green stuff patch , I would consider trimming these parts off an finding some replacements if you have a budget for it, like the charging handle and the rear sight. For the warped folding stock , I would try adding some thin metal support strips on the inner side so it won’t been seen but will guide that area straight. .

 

The sterling d ring has more of a rounded curve on each side. Have a look at the blaster reference by clicking on the banner in my signature. You can find some good reference pics. It’s tough to get the right bend but perhaps with aluminum you can make an easier job of it. Brass or stronger metals are a pain to work with unless you have the right equipment or things to shape it around.. hope this helps. 

 

[Rat[TK]]

So my doopy counter arrived today and it seems to be in a fairly decent shape a couple of small bubbles but not really obvious and should be hidden fairly well after painting. So my first question regarding this is how to do the counter readout? Also where can I find the display and reticles?

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Have a look at the blaster reference again for some ideas on this. It was a lot of work but I Carved out the insides of my doopy counter, added some real counter parts from a dollar store counter and cut some clear plastic to fit and sanded/polished it to a curved shaped and finish. There are lots of 3d options now for the clear window part that I have seen around. The numbers can be as a printed sticker/insert as well. Someone on the forum was customizing these for members I think a while back.  If I find it I will post it for you. 

[Rat[TK]]

Yeah I'll have to go back in there again.

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

34 minutes ago, Rat said:

Yeah I'll have to go back in there again.

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You’ll find it’s extremely useful to get ideas to use or even inspire you to try something new. Fieldmarshal also makes some great replic counters too but not sure if you are interested to buy another one. Doopy counter is fine, just needs a lot of work to bring out the details you want to incorporate. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it. 

[Rat[TK]]

Thanks Andy (?) was just digging through it again. Yeah there are lots of things there. I have a question on the counter bracket if it's separate from the rail it is mounted using the rear scope mount. How big should that bracket be? I didn't see any measurements for them when separate.

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

Here is a thread about printing numbers. gmrohodes13 might be able to help make a number file you can print. He is super helpful.