Fish's ANOVOS Build Thread - Aspiring for L3

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I got vmusicstore's E-11 M38 tank scope today and it's solid! Now I'm just looking for mounting options.

 

I also got started on changing the existing t-tracks on the blaster for accuracy - the ones stock, as pointed by you good souls, were too short. 

 

I ordered Super6Props' t-tracks and had a few learning experiences.

 

I had trouble getting the tension of the bend just right, often it was too long, or too short, causing it to bow, or not hold in place. After some trial and error, I found that 1cm was enough to give a proper bend and tension, combined with the distance between the closest edges of the two vent holes.

 

It took a while trying to maintain a nice hot boiling cup of water on my desk - (had to refill several times per track), when the water was too cool, the tracks were not easy to work with. I also ended up peeling off the included tape on the t-tracks, those tracks were no were near close to hugging the barrel shroud - my only guess are that the vent holes on other blasters were larger in diameter than the ones on this airsoft gun's.

 

Overall, I'm quite happy how it turned out. I think upon completion, I'll add some glue to the end holes to prevent the t-tracks from coming loose.

 

According to this guide - they mention securing the t-tracks with wire? Anyone have an instructional of how this is done?

Edited February 1, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
wires

[giskard8[Staff]]

I think the wire thing is for use with DLT-19, I haven't seen people do that with a E-11. 

 

Looks ok as is.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Anyone able to chime in?

On 1/31/2020 at 1:50 AM, fishgoh0nk said:

I'm currently rebuilding the helmet - and I have a couple of questions for you guys. Anything is much appreciated!

• Helmet to face gap - I'd personally like to close up the gap a bit; would some heat treatment be wise or dumb? Screen references as well as many other posts appear that a gap is present, I'm having an internal debate between conventional (if real word helmets had gaps, that wouldn't be great) and screen accuracy. I'll be trimming the ears as well to sit more flush with the edges as well.
• Polish - If I decide to polish the helmet at this time, I'm guessing I would need to polish the entire suit to match the sheen for approvals?
• Brow height - Dan's post about brow height indicates it's acceptable to have a low brow, which I like better (looks more aggressive), ::  
  • But after reviewing some of the approval requests, it appears stunt brows (high-med) are the preferred look even for EIB - is this just a matter of garrison leader's preference or is there an approval standard in this regard?  :: EDIT :: I guess I'm building an ANH stunt, so high brow is more conventional, but is it required?

Latest update - Calves. I added the shim as you guys had advised. I had to redo the the left one today after finding out my cover strip sat a bit crooked, and had a bit too much room at the ankles. But here's how i'm shimming.

 

Also removed the overspray from the frown - I don't think I need to repaint, kind of like it this way, and it's pretty screen accurate for Stunt TK, what do y'all think?

Edited February 5, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

11 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Also removed the overspray from the frown - I don't think I need to repaint, kind of like it this way, and it's pretty screen accurate for Stunt TK, what do y'all think?

looking good. 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

 

Shark has a broken tail. Actually, only thing around the house I could use to brace the inside of the greaves. The shims I added were pretty rigid and the closure left a gap that I don't believe velcro nor elastic + strap would be able to bridge, so I segmented the shim, added a second layer for rounded reinforcement. Hopefully the curve will be tight by tomorrow.

 

Edited February 15, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I'm thinking I need to widen up my thighs a bit more - the clearance between the left thigh and the sniper knee is a bit low, they'll actually touch when i lock my knees. The reason for the widening is because I can't pull the thighs up any higher due to the funneling of my thighs into them. What do you guys think?

 

 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi, I would suggest to put on the upper part of your armor (Chest,back,Ab- kidney)  to see the space between the thighs-armor connections.

 

Cheers

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Having skinny legs I find mine hit when standing but I tend to widen my stance, especially when walking .

 

But yes always best to trial fit will all pieces of armor on

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

47 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi, I would suggest to put on the upper part of your armor (Chest,back,Ab- kidney)  to see the space between the thighs-armor connections.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

7 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Having skinny legs I find mine hit when standing but I tend to widen my stance, especially when walking .

 

But yes always best to trial fit will all pieces of armor on

 

Good idea - tough work trying to put this on by myself, so please excuse my left shoulder bell, I couldn't reach over to strap it. I think I could get the belt a bit tighter to cinch up the ab plate with the kidney...  I may have put on weight in the past 2 years... LOL

 

Also - any advice on getting the butt plate to sit closer to my body (I have Hugh Jazz) would be much appreciated!

 

Edited February 21, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
question

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Thighs could definitely come up a little you do have a lot of gap there.

 

You could also add some foam behind the sniper plate to help push it forward away form the knee.

 

One other thing and I'm sure it may be a dressing thing but I can see the opening of your shins from the sides, just making sure you have overlapped outside over inside  

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

12 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thighs could definitely come up a little you do have a lot of gap there.

 

You could also add some foam behind the sniper plate to help push it forward away form the knee.

 

One other thing and I'm sure it may be a dressing thing but I can see the opening of your shins from the sides, just making sure you have overlapped outside over inside  

Sniper knee - would the foam press against your actual knee cap?

 

Thighs - Shouldn't be too hard - just need to let out my shims a bit more - I guess years back my left quad was maybe smaller - either way, I think i need roughly .5-.75" on the circumference. 

 

 

Good tip on the shins, I just lazily put the shins on, I haven't tacked on the velcro yet. Would you recommend velcro given that these shins are shimmed? Would it be too thick? The shim was for an extension of the coverstrip.

Edited February 21, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

32 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Also - any advice on getting the butt plate to sit closer to my body (I have Hugh Jazz) would be much appreciated!

You can try shortening the elastic on both sides of the butt plate , another suggestion is changing them for Nylon strap.

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Coming along nicely James

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

34 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Coming along nicely James

Thank you! Couldn't have done it without your master Anovos guide!

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

EDIT: Found it - quick link for myself - "The rear foot of the scope should be aligned with the folding stock pivot."

 

Question about scope distance? I'm trying to avoid mounting on the same drilled holes the rail had come with in fear of weakening the structure. Is there any standard to how far the scope should be from either the magrelease/railfront/hengstler counter?

 

Edited February 24, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
answered

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Unfortunately, the holes drilled for the inaccurate scope that came with the gun sits right where I need to mount...

 

Need to strengthen up the area before I drill the holes for the vmusicstore scope. Hope this JB Weld will hold up! 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I think I most likely didn't do fitment correctly the first time, I don't think my quads have grown that much - look at the size difference!

Before

Now

 

Trying to get some info on ABS pasting - are the seam lines too narrow to get a good adhesion that's resistant to flex/bending cracks?

 

Also wondering - can I go higher than this on the mobility cut? If not, I'll have to ABS paste/fake some return edges.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

 

 

As per the CRL states :

 

 

• Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges.

 

I think the red line you marked is ok.  Here's a reference picture .  

 

Cheers

 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

50 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Hate to necro, but I had a question regarding return edges in conjunction with shimming and mobility cuts for Centurion. Would i have to make false returns to fit the criteria: Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges.

 

Kind of answered already - here we go...

Edited February 25, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Decided to do some helmet reshaping and bolting. I wish I took some before photos - but I think I made a more flush fitting assembly - plus had a little polish.

EDIT: Found old left ear

 

EDIT: Found old right ear

 

I decied I'll redo the vocoder, attempting an edge clean up didn't feel efficient.

Edited March 1, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

I need some help with butt problems guys! And not the kind a proctologist could solve! 

 

Here's a shot from behind.

 

 

I think there's a few reasons the butt plate is riding up, 

1. The V is too wide for my thigh gap?
2. Thigh tops are too high for my thigh length?
3. Ab to Butt elastic too loose?

 

 

I was also anticipating adding some wide black elastic on the butt plate flaps to go around waist to cinch up. 

As for the high ride, I would prefer to modify the thigh armor first before touching the butt plate, I was thinking about trimming the follow either one or both

 

What do you guys think?

 

Edited March 3, 2020 by fishgoh0nk
added closeup

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

bump for help

Edited March 3, 2020 by fishgoh0nk

[TheSwede[TK]]

Hi

First make sure the thighs are at an even hight (in the pic they are not) and that they are centered (right looks to be slightly rotated inwards, backview). Dropping the left and rotating the right might be all that’s needed but a front pic would help to make sure that don’t create a too big of a gap between the cod and thighs. I would start there

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, TheSwede said:

Hi

First make sure the thighs are at an even hight (in the pic they are not) and that they are centered (right looks to be slightly rotated inwards, backview). Dropping the left and rotating the right might be all that’s needed but a front pic would help to make sure that don’t create a too big of a gap between the cod and thighs. I would start there

Thanks for the tip! I took your advice and re-suited, but before I even put the thighs on to rotate and even out, I think I found the primary issue. I think it's the butt fat. Even without the thighs, due to the tightness of my belt, the kidney plate is cinched in, allowing any upward pressure to cause the butt plate to rise. In this case, I think it's me.

 

I did make an elastic belt to pull the butt plate to wrap around my body a bit tighter, I think I'll glue this in and refit before I do any trimming. But in the off chance it still rises - what would be the next thing to try? I don't think a tighter cod piece elastic would work, the snaps just aren't strong enough (I tried the second snap placement and it pops off with minimal movement). Would removing some of the butt plate return edge disqualify Centurion?

 

 

 

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

I'm currently rebuilding the helmet - and I have a couple of questions for you guys. Anything is much appreciated!

• Helmet to face gap - I'd personally like to close up the gap a bit; would some heat treatment be wise or dumb? Screen references as well as many other posts appear that a gap is present, I'm having an internal debate between conventional (if real word helmets had gaps, that wouldn't be great) and screen accuracy. I'll be trimming the ears as well to sit more flush with the edges as well.
• Polish - If I decide to polish the helmet at this time, I'm guessing I would need to polish the entire suit to match the sheen for approvals?
• Brow height - Dan's post about brow height indicates it's acceptable to have a low brow, which I like better (looks more aggressive), :: [/url] 
  • But after reviewing some of the approval requests, it appears stunt brows (high-med) are the preferred look even for EIB - is this just a matter of garrison leader's preference or is there an approval standard in this regard?  :: EDIT :: I guess I'm building an ANH stunt, so high brow is more conventional, but is it required?

Hiya,

 

What do you mean by “helmet to face gap”?

 

Regarding the brow height, the thread was really intended to show that the majority of stunts helmets seen on screen (I’d guess more than 90%), including many hero helmets, had a visible gap between the eyes and the brow (this doesn’t automatically mean a high brow, just a clear gap)- so, as per your latter conclusion, more of a mid brow for stunt based on the many screen references. No one will enforce this and lots of troopers do go for the brow touching the eyes because, as you mentioned, they feel it looks more menacing. Personally, I like how they looked in the movie - that’s what got me interested in stormtroopers. So, for me, I make mine to look more like the 90%+ seen on screen rather than the few.

 

Your helmet looks great how it currently is, by the way. :-)