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Posted

Yep, it's been my saving grace, Lol. The Ab detail really shows the difference though. Testors gray, masking worked. Lousy Model Masters got all up under that shizz. (Please excuse my vernacular, it's all over the place... Born in Australia, grew up in the Philippines, and have been in Atlanta for 25 years. Plus I'm a grip, my swearing tendencies make sailors blush)

Once the paint has dried a bit, it usually goes pretty well removing it with a toothpick.

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Posted

OK. Last one for the night. After some toothpick action, it's not god awful, but will definitely go back it with a fine tip to add some coats. Of course on the buttons the blue found all the tiny nicks from cutting out the masking circles. Toothpick, cloth, 1000 grit sandpaper, and a little thinner on a fine brush. Before using thinner around the tubes, added a photo for an AOK. Actually picking in some of the curves. Still blame the paint a little would have gone better if it was thick like the Testors46c45b63306d7318df17f94ec17342fc.jpgbea867dd3e52b54b5cb7f9950255b9a9.jpge5948bcb71741ce6d2ce3d8f6159eff6.jpg61f2ab03c1b36596e39d7fabd32112aa.jpgcf32fbfebd6346aeb32e74e5a66f2042.jpg

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  • Like 1
Posted

It's just the Model Masters thin paint that's doing me in. There was a good hour plus of toothpickin'. It bled under the tube tape as well. Also came of the brush wider than I would have liked, whichever messed up my spacing on the stripes. Ended up with 10 and 11, kinda wanted 13. Or 12 and 13 considering the asymmetry. Guess I could remove a some and redo some sections.

So no one sees a problem with that particular thinner? I figure if it's for model paints it should be (?) safe for plastic? I'm probably going to have to use it to get some of the paint that's settled in nicks and stuff.

Now here's a question that just popped into mind. Do you guys clear coat after finishing painting? Also if not, does polishing mess up the paint? If you thought my post language was off colour, you should've heard me in the kitchen...especially when I noticed some big blue finger prints on the Faceplate and cap. Aaarrrggh.

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Posted
Guess I could remove a some and redo some sections.

 

 

Now here's a question that just popped into mind. Do you guys clear coat after finishing painting? Also if not, does polishing mess up the paint?

 

 

 

Hiya.

 

Those ab buttons came out nice. :-)

 

If you’re going to remove some anyway, you could consider either a re design your own template that you can apply to the cheek (rather than marking on the cheek), or source a ready made template which matches the ANH style. Trooperbay make lovely “Dave M” style.

 

fd1e8c52f7b5b7f3a7b999dc25ab2b35.jpg

 

The style and positioning of tubestripes are quite a defining feature of the lids so it’s an area worth focusing on. :-)

 

Regarding a top coat, paints like Humbrol and Testors are the recommended ones. I used Humbrol on both of my kids and it sits so nicely that there is no need for any top coat.

 

Dan

 

 

Posted

Dan, I think I'm giving myself 2 more strikes before going to the template. For some strange reason, I feel that being able to free hand it, is a rite of passage for me. The trials and tribulations of these tube stripes are strengthening the bond between me and my kit. The build hasn't drawn blood (yet), so mental anguish is seems to be a suitable replacement.

Looking again this morning the right tube isn't that bad, a strong B- even, and the left tube a solid D. The front three stripes on the right were the first ones to go on, and where the runny mess panic quickly set in. I did those facing the helmet looking eye to eye, which forced my hand into a less than stellar position and the panic made me forget to concentrate on the slight curve. Positives, are maybe 35% of the stripes look good to me, so I think I can pull off free hand in the end. I also think I got the placement of the area for the stripes pretty good.

I'm taking the kids to a Galactic Academy meet and greet later today, and it's being hosted at a hobby shop, so maybe they'll have some Testors French Blue (it Humbles isn't carried in my nearby Hobby/Craft stores), for attempt #2, and I'll be able to pull the paint better if it's thicker.

Thanks again for all your tips and guidance!

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  • Like 1
Posted

Looking again, the stripes look a little long to me. I had read 13/16ths. Dan I'm sure you have an accurate length (or width, depending on your point of view) in mm. Thickness being the 2.5 to 3mm.

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  • Like 1
Posted
Looking again, the stripes look a little long to me. I had read 13/16ths. Dan I'm sure you have an accurate length (or width, depending on your point of view) in mm. Thickness being the 2.5 to 3mm.

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Fair play to you for trying freehand. Based on the precision of the originals, I would very much imagine they were also templates (or at least masking) used for the movies, so don’t be put off using them if you need to.

I have a set of templates at home. I’ll measure them up and update you shortly.

Also, don’t forget that tube stripes should be approximately a pencil’s width from the cheek. :-)


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Posted

Masking I believe, course it didn't do much good with that runny paint, but just looking at the variety in number of stripes, would lead me to believe there wasn't a template/stencil. I had used a No. 2 pencil to lay in the masking at first, but as I constantly adjusted before painting, I think I walked the tape further away from the cheeks.

Leaning more to picking everything off this morning, and giving it a whole redo when we get back home tonight. Hopefully second time will be the charm, rather than the usual third :). There's also supposed to be some kitted 501st members at the Galactic Academy meet and greet, crafts thingie today, so I'll scrutinize their kits :)

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Posted

Here we go. Some pics with measurements.

 

These are the “hand painted” style templates from TrooperBay.

 

f3a9042c57b485e2569aa6f549795b69.jpg

 

b7c91469b298340347d3de81fd1ce627.jpg

 

5fc5e5f01d3d498f57c724672da7bc11.jpg

 

Hope that helps a little. :-)

 

 

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Posted

That actually helps a lot.

Love the fact there's 15 on the right, and 16 on the left. It shows symmetry in the asymmetry of the suit, with the 12 blocks on the right, 11 on the left of the forearms. 12 and 13 is what I think I'll shoot for now. :)

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  • Like 1
Posted

And back to the thread. Went to the Galactic Academy meet-up, which ate up most of my day yesterday, but pulled out the thinner (product plug: that Testors thinner is fantastic!), after stupidly trying to pick off all the failure from paint attempt one. Took out a bigger brush, painted it over those terrible stripes, and couple of wipes with a diaper, clean slate. Remasked, and since I had little time before leaving, figured I pull the screw joining the Ab belt to the canvas one,and rivet it. Well, since I did it from the front, I didn't realize the belt wasn't as tight as I thought, so I riveted to the front canvas only....and tiny tug, the belt came right off with a shiny new rivet attaching nothing....sigh

Meet-up went great, kids had a blast doing some Star Wars crafts, and I got to meet some more members of the local garrison. Unfortunately the hobby shop hosting the event only carried Citadel paints, but there happened to be a Hobbytown nearby, so I picked up some Humbrol #14.

Sorry for the long post, meant to put one up yesterday, but didn't. The Humbrol wasn't much thicker than the model Master and got a bit sloppy with the flat brush, so a few stripes in, I switched to a smaller brush and carried on. Whilst leaving the first coat of attempt #2 to dry. I spent the rest of the night trying to get that damn pop rivet out,without destroying the plastic. Finally happened...going to use Chicago screw for the belt I think now.

This morning was some toothpicking, and felt it was good enough for a second coat. Little more toothpicking and some 500 and 1000 sandpaper, and the final coat will go on after dinner, and checking in with you guys.

New thing I learned, and it may be a "well duh" for some of you, dipping the toothpick tip into the thinner really helps with the stubborn remnants from the first round with the toothpick.33f2cb205db186b7f7e21e1787ceb71c.jpg86ef1d32d6076fc55f4174671a1f0718.jpgd9c5c21f9993b5de6212693841a57761.jpgf6c93d57ab2dfb1df3c813afc012350c.jpgb9ca918a21e5046467b05e5d9146944b.jpga81a78245a32d4a7f13ace7fd885439e.jpg

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  • Like 2
Posted

So third coat went on, decided it would be the last one...for now. After a little drying, I pulled the tape. Hell yeah! I'm OK with this. I mean it will need a little cleaning up once it dries fully, some paint ran down the edge, and it got under a little on the front right tube stripe. But over all it's a success.... Maybe a little wet sanding with the 1000 grit.

I really need to get back to the suit...54eec593b42732e110f450a59639cb77.jpgccf17945b8c1175aa03adaa3391d6d83.jpg3c1f283febfd78085f7f0f2a587bb938.jpg

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  • Like 3
Posted
So third coat went on, decided it would be the last one...for now. After a little drying, I pulled the tape. Hell yeah! I'm OK with this. I mean it will need a little cleaning up once it dries fully, some paint ran down the edge, and it got under a little on the front right tube stripe. But over all it's a success.... Maybe a little wet sanding with the 1000 grit.

I really need to get back to the suit...54eec593b42732e110f450a59639cb77.jpgccf17945b8c1175aa03adaa3391d6d83.jpg3c1f283febfd78085f7f0f2a587bb938.jpg

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Much neater. Nice work. :-)
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks guys! Dan, those measurements photos you sent really helped. Glad I didn't have to go to attempt #3.

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Posted

Back to the suit... Today is trimming up return edges, focusing on the legs. Thighs first, trimmed the return edges on the left one, leaving a little at the top (for illusion of thickness. Trimmed almost all at the bottom. Whilst snacking on a sandwich I decided to flip through the gallery again, and noticed there was quite a bit of return left at the bottom of the thighs on the RS suit. Crap. If you look through the pictures I'm adding, how bad have I messed up? I'm also going to out pictures of the yet untrimmed right thigh, as the left was quite similar in that the return, wasn't a right angle. This was the reason I removed it all, because the knee line seemed to be better. The last picture should have been second, it is of the left thigh with all the return removed.326d451cb0d4fc12180dcddfd70e62cc.jpg5aacf3a40f6d3f0ec3dae0b91736fd5d.jpg3570351b78cb8f02fbfff5fe94f7d212.jpge45d7e7a65f79fcff9c4d05fa4553521.jpg507577cdc57c40025b253677b824ce78.jpg

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Posted

Now shins...I know all the bottom return should be removed. How much of the top should I leave? The pics of the RS suit show some return, but the is also signs of damage.cb0d3638a3cb34cfce520e54c6b192db.jpg

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Posted

All looks good. CRL stats no return on the forearm. Everything else is wearer preference. Some people like it some don’t. I got rid of all mine for comfort.


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