ANH AM 2.0 build... Finally

[CableGuy[TK]]

All looks good. CRL stats no return on the forearm. Everything else is wearer preference. Some people like it some don’t. I got rid of all mine for comfort.


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Wrist end of forearm. ;-)


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[DBGrip]

Copy that on the forearm, I trimmed those already, think there's a picture waay back in the thread. I guess I'm looking for opinion as well, as I know that though there nothing in the CRL, there's also striving for somewhat screen accuracy (realize it's impossible to have total accuracy with an AM suit... but goal is to be close)

How much have you guys left on the tops of your shins? Or do you taper a return front to back (more up front, less at the back)? I know I'm going to lose some of it in going for a more "slender fit" in the legs.

Thighs? Well since the left one is already done, may as well remove the same on the right because, well, the ammo pack.

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[Frank75139[501st]]

I remembered seeing you did it already sorry I wasn’t specific enough, was focusing on the question at hand. Personally I found it uncomfortable. Not sure if it was a size thing as I’m 240 pounds or what but in test fittings around the house it bothered me and I figured if it did then it would when I was trooping for 4 hours. With that said I think it helps make the armor look thicker but I also think it’s an extra seam that could start to crack.


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[ukswrath[Staff]]

7 minutes ago, DBGrip said:

Copy that on the forearm, I trimmed those already, think there's a picture waay back in the thread. I guess I'm looking for opinion as well, as I know that though there nothing in the CRL, there's also striving for somewhat screen accuracy (realize it's impossible to have total accuracy with an AM suit... but goal is to be close)

How much have you guys left on the tops of your shins? Or do you taper a return front to back (more up front, less at the back)? I know I'm going to lose some of it in going for a more "slender fit" in the legs.

Thighs? Well since the left one is already done, may as well remove the same on the right because, well, the ammo pack.

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Return edge amount is entirely up to you, except for specific areas like the sniper knee which will need it.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Here’s a screen used top of shin.

 

 

I’m guessing that’s 2-3mm in places. Personally, I left around 4-5mm on mine. :-)

 

[DBGrip]

That's the area I'm concerned about. When you say needs it, do you mean as a structural thing? And I'm guessing you'd leave the same amount on the right shin for looks (giving some illusion of thickness, for when people look you up and down). I mean you don't want to look too hollow... The sniper knee blocks the view down your legs to a degree...

Return edge amount is entirely up to you, except for specific areas like the sniper knee which will need it.

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[DBGrip]

Here’s a screen used too if shin.



I’m guessing that’s 2-3mm in places. Personally, I left around 4-5mm on mine. :-)

That's what I'm talking about being "damaged", the screen used make it hard to judge. Just to be clear that's an ANH screen suit right, but it was an existing ROTJ suit that some of the lineage makers had cast from? That family tree is more confusing than Game of Thrones.

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[CableGuy[TK]]

That's what I'm talking about being "damaged", the screen used make it hard to judge. Just to be clear that's an ANH screen suit right, but it was an existing ROTJ suit that some of the lineage makers had cast from? That family tree is more confusing than Game of Thrones.

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It might be an idea to check out a few other build threads and see how much return you like the look of. As the others said, it’s more of a personal preference. The screen used suits are a little battered but still give a good idea of how they were on screen. :-)

[hollowbodies[501st]]

Yea, it's really up to you. For the thighs, it's usually way more comforyable if you have no (or almost none) return edge because, over time on some longer troops, the return edges can start digging in your thigh and/or knee. I removed most return edge from the top of my thighs and left a small one st the bottom.

 

For the shins, it's a bit different. I'd suggest removing the return edge at the bottom if you have any... It will allow you to get that more slender fit you want. As for the top, I left a little one on mine - a few millimeters. It sometimes dig in my knee too but it's not really bad and I personnally think it looks better if there is a small one.

 

Hope this helps... And once again, it's pretty much all up to you; trying to find balance between long wearability and look. ^^

 

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[DBGrip]

Thanks guys.  Sorry to be so picky, but I feel the amount of return edge will affect the sizing, hence why I'm overly concerned about it now, rather than later.  So many build threads I've been looking through, people are trimming the returns after assembly, and in many instances it seems they've gone a little too big, because the presence of the return prevented them from getting the pieces tight enough to the body.  I had a lot of interruptions yesterday, and didn't get as much done as I hoped (all thighs are trimmed now, but not the tops of the shins).  Hope to get into it some more shortly.  Hope to get some "Tape Trooper" shots up later today .

 

On a positive note,  I did get drop boxes on the belt.  I ended up using post screws to attach the plastic belt to the canvas one (after my rivet debacle).  However I put the slotted screw head on the inside of the belt, so I wouldn't have to take the rivet covers off the front if I ever needed to disassemble the belt (haven't put the covers on yet).  Looking through EIB and Centurion submissions, I noticed there are photos of the back side of the belt, would having the screw heads showing on the back, instead of the post receivers be a negative?  Pictures later....

 

[hollowbodies[501st]]

The CRL does not seem to mention anything about what holds the canvas and plactic belts together, so I think you should be fine.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

3 hours ago, DBGrip said:

Thanks guys.  Sorry to be so picky, but I feel the amount of return edge will affect the sizing, hence why I'm overly concerned about it now, rather than later.  So many build threads I've been looking through, people are trimming the returns after assembly, and in many instances it seems they've gone a little too big, because the presence of the return prevented them from getting the pieces tight enough to the body.  I had a lot of interruptions yesterday, and didn't get as much done as I hoped (all thighs are trimmed now, but not the tops of the shins).  Hope to get into it some more shortly.  Hope to get some "Tape Trooper" shots up later today .

 

On a positive note,  I did get drop boxes on the belt.  I ended up using post screws to attach the plastic belt to the canvas one (after my rivet debacle).  However I put the slotted screw head on the inside of the belt, so I wouldn't have to take the rivet covers off the front if I ever needed to disassemble the belt (haven't put the covers on yet).  Looking through EIB and Centurion submissions, I noticed there are photos of the back side of the belt, would having the screw heads showing on the back, instead of the post receivers be a negative?  Pictures later....

 

The reason we ask to look at the back of the waist belt is to confirm how the holster is attached and if we need to make recommendation in other areas also.

1 hour ago, hollowbodies said:

The CRL does not seem to mention anything about what holds the canvas and plactic belts together, so I think you should be fine.

Correct, interior (unseen) connections are not taken into account during approvals. 

[DBGrip]

OK so finished trimming up the legs. Put on the old spandex and boots and taped them up. Sorry no pics. Couldn't find a mirror, and well, had to hold the thighs up a little, so couldn't hold camera. Will try and take pics in a couple of days. Taped Ab to kidney as well. Everything seems OK. I manged to trim the top of the thighs for length, if I do it's only going to be a few mm. Think I'm going to have to make some progress on strapping, before making that decision to see how they sit. Split rivets came in, so I'm thinking next task is trying to get Ab and kidney connected and gluing the snaps on the inside of the armor. Doesn't seem like I have to trim for height in these sections. May try to tape up the torso and see what you guys think. See a hit water bath on the back straps in my future just because of how it sat to minimize the gap between it and the kidney. Of course I'll check before doing anything permanent.

I think I might be able to go ahead and glue inner shims on the front of the legs...Does anyone have a good reason not to do this before completing the sizing?

Oh and I finally bled for my armor... Safety note, if you're working at a table bare foot, don't leave the Xacto knife near the edge. You can knock it off when grabbing another tool, and it will fall like a dart into the top of your toe. Luckily there was some super glue nearby.

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[DBGrip]

Right, working on Ab and kidney today. I wonder if tapatalk will insert pictures within the text, haven't added as I type yet, only added pics at the end... First pic is me holding the Ab alone, just so you can see where it ends wrapping around my torso.

Should have said first 3 pics... without pushing in the sides to make it more form fitting (could fit my thumb in between easily) it seems to be just about mid torso.

Next I taped the kidney in place, and ran a pencil down the edge of the overlap.

The next four show pencil marks on either side of the Ab and Kidney. I generated the line on the kidney, by overlapping the Ab over the kidney, lining the edge of the kidney with the marks made on the Ab from when the kidney over lapped it during fitting. (Hope that makes sense...) Arrows on the kidney point down

I'm guessing I should cut more from the kidney than the Ab, and also the angled cut should be on the kidney. Suggestions welcome. Looking at shaving the sides of the Ab 10mm each side parallel to the existing edge, then moving the marks on the kidney 10 mm in making a cut line parallel to the angle marked on the kidney. I believe the would maintain a vertical seam. Input greatly appreciated, will wait to make cuts till confirmed.

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[LTM[TK]]

Wait for others to respond, but I think you will want to be able to get a fingers width in front and back (so you can move around). My cuts were not tapered, but parallel and only on the kidney - no cuts on the ab.

[CableGuy[TK]]

To get nice clean sides, I think you’ll want to cut nice and straight, rather than at an angle like you’ve marked.



You can see that where the rivets go is parallel to the ab detailing and the line of the kidney.

(Hope that makes sense) :-)

[hollowbodies[501st]]

Yeah, definitely - it would be way better to cut it straight than with some angles. Also, I'd recommend to be able to fit around two fingers inside. Like Lou said, it will help you move around, but will also allow some air to flow through your armor and help your body breath during long troops (and that you want!). I pretty much used that rule on most pieces : let around two fingers width free inside your armor, and it works pretty well - not too tight and not too loose. 

Edited June 20, 2018 by hollowbodies

[ukswrath[Staff]]

As mentioned above a vertical edge on both Ab and Kidney is a must. If you need to take a square edge or hard back book and align it with the top of the kidney then draw your vertical line from there. 

 

NOTE: Using a square edge doesn't work with all armor, AM edges are pretty square so the concept should work here. 

[DBGrip]

Copy all that thanks. I guess it was confusing in the way I explained it, I was always planning on a vertical cut on the Ab. Any angled cut would have been on the kidney. The angled line was a reference for how the kidney lined up when overlapping to fit my body. My back fat pushed the lower part of the back away. Since the kidney was over the Ab when fitting that line was used to line up the kidney under the Ab to generate a tapered cut line on the kidney, so that there would be a vertical seam in the end.

I guess that's all moot now, since if I'm not going to make it as form fitting, think I'll just take 10mm of each side of the kidney, and see how it lines up, and shave little by little from there.

I guess my thinking in this process was wrong in the sense that trying to get it most form fitting would help my body support the torso, when in reality it's the shoulders holding it up through the straps from chest and back to Ab and Kidney. Also, I haven't trimmed any of the return in the kidney piece, maybe some trimming on the lower return will bring the bottom of the kidney in better. First pic, how it lined up on me, second how I got the angle, by lining up the kidney on the inside, using the marks on the Ab to duplicate kidney position (allowing for spare tire). Illustrating the difference an angled cut (still having a vertical seam would make)... This has become a slightly embarrassing post. Will see what happens with 1cm cut on either side of kidney vertical. LoL. Really hope this helps you guys understand where I was coming from with the angled cut, whilst maintaining a vertical seam. I really laughing now.

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[DBGrip]

To get nice clean sides, I think you’ll want to cut nice and straight, rather than at an angle like you’ve marked.



You can see that where the rivets go is parallel to the ab detailing and the line of the kidney.

(Hope that makes sense) :-)

Looking at that screen used suit, that kidney may have been cut at a slight angle. I'm looking at how much the butt end protrudes. Pic of kidney flat on table top. And pic, if the angle was made vertical. It's a very subtle difference. The seam would still be vertical on a body....Interesting...

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[DBGrip]

A couple of posts ago, I put a photo with the Ab and kidney clamped together. I was holding it at arm's length, due to the weight it looks like the seam is at an angle. Please rotate your phone slightly so the seam is vertical...

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Do you mean the notch highlighted here:



That was a feature of the original armour. Whilst they might not be 100% straight down, they are pretty close. :-)

[DBGrip]

No not the notch, nor the angle, because of the elastic stretching at the top. If you look at the back profile of the piece, the part where the kidney meets the butt looks like it protrudes more than the top where the kidney meets the back. Similar to your body where your lower back sticks out more than your mid back. How do you guys draw on a picture that has been posted already? Can you do it in tapatalk?.

 

When I set my kidney piece on a flat table the upper (where it meets the back) is in line with the lower (where it meets the butt). In the screen used picture it looks like the butt is protruding more than the back... I wish I could draw on the picture . Sure would make things easier to explain. Lol.

Do you mean the notch highlighted here:

 

 

That was a feature of the original armour. Whilst they might not be 100% straight down, they are pretty close. :-)

 

 

 

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[CableGuy[TK]]

A couple of posts ago, I put a photo with the Ab and kidney clamped together. I was holding it at arm's length, due to the weight it looks like the seam is at an angle. Please rotate your phone slightly so the seam is vertical...

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Looking better like that



Some of the more experienced builders might be able to offer guidance if you wanted to add he kidney notch. (If I’m reading correctly, it is not required for any level of clearance but is listed as optional for Centurion).
Most of the time the notch is covered by he canvas belt, anyway. :-)

[CableGuy[TK]]

Ah, I see what you mean - the curve on the kidney plate...



Yours seems to have a bit of a curve. Have you looked at any other AM builds for tips on how they cut theirs? :-)


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