FN1313's Jimmiroqaui FOTK Armor Build

**FN1313[TK]** · July 9, 2018

Here's the Helmet process pics:

Post Initial sanding down to 320 grit.

These show how I marked the little holes after priming. Those holes I fixed with bondo filler.

And the Bondo filler

Sanded down the bondo with 320 grit

Then primed again:

Here's the trimmed leg pieces. I further got the sewing done to fit the gaskets right. Arms still in progress sewing.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 10, 2018

Did some more work last night now that the marine grade snaps I ordered came in. I setup the snaps for the shoulders and the back of the ab plate to hold it closed. I've got the connector snaps set for the codpiece, just need to get the strap snaps setup to hold it on. The butt plate will be installed soon and then the thigh straps will have their snaps set for the thighs soon as well.

I got a hard hat liner for a welders mask from amazon. It was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RIFGE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It sits really well and holds well. I'm going to need to get some additional foam padding to add some distance between the top of the helmet and the top of my head as well as pad the surrounding areas of the top of the helmet around the hard hat liner just for more accurate look when wearing and padding.

The shoulder supports hold the shoulder pieces at perfect height. Looking forward to getting my gaskets finished in sizing up and then I can do a full armor test fit.

Forgive my sweat soaked shirt, it was easily 100 degrees here and those marine snaps take a lot to get set even with snap pliers.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 10, 2018

Last pictures didn't show how I did the snaps, I will get more detailed photos later.

**Ghollum[TK]** · July 12, 2018

Last pictures didn't show how I did the snaps, I will get more detailed photos later.

Your kicking an impolite person..great thread.wwll done

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**Ghollum[TK]** · July 12, 2018

An impolite person?? Wtf..kicking assssssss

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**FN1313[TK]** · July 12, 2018

4 hours ago, Ghollum said:

An impolite person?? Wtf..kicking assssssss

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Dang, that must have been a really impolite person. JK, Thanks! I hope to get a good build thread for everyone and have it done soon. Where I stand there's just a few snaps to setup on the armor and then from there it's sanding, priming and painting.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 12, 2018

Small update.

I've been very busy the past few nights, so only had time to do this. I will get the other rigging photos tonight as I finish the snaps and get going on sanding.

I installed the welder's mask liner with some CA glue and then padded the top and the sides with this lovely green padding stuff. This way it fits perfectly as well as isn't bobblehead trooper.

Soon, gentlemen, soon

**FN1313[TK]** · July 13, 2018

You wanted them, WE GOT THEM! PICTURES!

Alright first I worked on the strapping system for the codpiece and the butt plate.

Essentially I've got some 1 inch Nylon webbing and marine snaps that hold things together. The magnets don't do anything, they just are solidly glued. I have open snap spots just in case I decide at some point I need more straps.

I did the same snap method for the butt plate and cod piece.

The TD is only held on right now with the plastic hook I created on top.

Then I was in a rut waiting on my harness system to get sewed. So I worked on the helmet:

Wet sanded with 600 grit on the primer and taped up.

Wrapping up the work on the helmet while waiting. After the harness is done I can finalize snaps and then get working on the rest.

**gmrhodes13[Staff]** · July 13, 2018

Coming along nicely. Just a tip with painting masked areas, if you use some white first it will fill in any gaps in the masking tape then you can paint black over the top and it shouldn't bleed

I actually found it easier to paint the whole helmet white, then mask, a quick coat of white to fill the masking area then black over the top.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 15, 2018

On 7/13/2018 at 4:49 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Coming along nicely. Just a tip with painting masked areas, if you use some white first it will fill in any gaps in the masking tape then you can paint black over the top and it shouldn't bleed

I actually found it easier to paint the whole helmet white, then mask, a quick coat of white to fill the masking area then black over the top.

That’s what I’m going to do next. Some bad weather hit right after I sprayed enamel and it cracked real bad all over. So I had to spend the day sanding down to bones and repainting the primer... this time though...hopefully all goes better.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 15, 2018

I’ve got my harness done with the gaskets, so tomorrow I’m going to figure out the last snaps for the thighs, then test wear the armor. Got some sanding to do going forward now.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 17, 2018

A'ight. Got an update so far.

First off. Helmet paint. I had weather come through and I think I sprayed enamel too early and it cracked...thus I had to strip and sand and start over.

I fully sanded all armor pieces from 100 to 220 to 320 grit so they are ready for priming. I also primed the chest piece.

I wanted to do a test fit with my rigging now sewn together. So I also did plastidip on the shoulders to prevent scratching

here's my harness/snap system. the next pictures show how it was before I updated the snaps in this picture.

As I mentioned I updated my snaps so that the ab plate sits higher, thus raising the TD under the back plate too. The shoulders sit great, Just have to pull the biceps up a little higher and then they don't swallow the shoulder bells.

Finally I used Bondo on the areas that had some rough patches so I can soon sand it down to smooth.

Taking a brief break now because I've got some other things I'm busy with for a few nights. But soon I will finish sanding and start priming everything.

I've also opted with painting to paint it all in white first. Probably 6+ coats of light spraying instead of light spray, medium, heavy. I will from there detail the black spots with paint and give it a good 3-5+ days of curing and all before enamel again.

I've been told that this is good as this lets it fully cure and get the gasses out of the paint before that enamel. However if anyone has better ideas on how to solid coat/clear coat that rustoleum 2x so it doesn't crack on me, I'm up for ideas.

**ukswrath[Staff]** · July 17, 2018

Doing good Kyle, keep up the good work. Painting can be frustrating, my only suggestion is warmth. Dry warm environment is key. If can you recreate it by making a booth or waiting for warmer weather it will save you a lot work.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 17, 2018

2 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Doing good Kyle, keep up the good work. Painting can be frustrating, my only suggestion is warmth. Dry warm environment is key. If can you recreate it by making a booth or waiting for warmer weather it will save you a lot work.

Yeah good info. Generally it has been quite dry and warm being in Utah, but it just happened to be the one wrong day that messed it up lol.

**gmrhodes13[Staff]** · July 17, 2018

Nice work, painting with enamel is a drag hence I went with acrylic automotive paint. Keep up the good work

**FN1313[TK]** · July 18, 2018

Okay, I'm putting this here to remind me as I've been so busy recently, but tonight I'm going to sand down the Bondo'ed sections and then start priming the rest of the armor components. I hope to prep things to the point that I can paint again this weekend.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 18, 2018

I also have read with rustoleum 2x to try putting the clear coat on 30 minutes after the last color coat. That way it cures with the coat instead of peeling it away. Either that or wait a few weeks. What I'm going to do is test this with a large piece of plastic and see if that 30 minute method works. I also got a new camera recently so I will be sure to video the process for future users if this works.

**FN1313[TK]** · July 20, 2018

Alright, another quick update.

I just got some spot filler for all the pock mark holes on this armor. Been working on filling them in. Because I wanted to test out the enamel on the rustoleum after a good time of letting it sit and cure (all weekend at least) I got the hand and knee plates ready for painting as well and did the white paint coating on them. Here are pictures.

So now just waiting for the armor pieces to dry, test enamel and if it works right I'm going to then finish this project up.

Also I'm videoing this so I can have some videos to view. Those will take some time to get available though.

**gmrhodes13[Staff]** · July 20, 2018

Not sure if you know but you can wet sand the spot putty, helps stop the sandpaper from clogging and will last a little longer. Spot putty also needs a long time to cure and sometimes for deeper holes it's best to apply in a couple of coats as it can shrink.

Almost there, keep up the great work

**FN1313[TK]** · July 21, 2018

7 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Not sure if you know but you can wet sand the spot putty, helps stop the sandpaper from clogging and will last a little longer. Spot putty also needs a long time to cure and sometimes for deeper holes it's best to apply in a couple of coats as it can shrink.

Almost there, keep up the great work

Yeah I’ve been wet sanding it down before I do another layer of primer. Then after that I’ve gone to the white paint. I love how smooth the wet sanded armor feels!

**Ensi[TK]** · July 21, 2018

4 hours ago, FN-1313 said:

Yeah I’ve been wet sanding it down before I do another layer of primer. Then after that I’ve gone to the white paint. I love how smooth the wet sanded armor feels!

Wetsanding is the best :jc_doublethumbup:

**FN1313[TK]** · July 24, 2018

Update time!

So I stuck with the Rustoleum 2x for my paint to see if I could get it to work by better following the instructions on the cans. I had previously sprayed my hand plates and knee plates with two coats of the 2x gloss white. It covered really well even with lighter coatings of spray so I didn't really need more than two coats. From here I let this sit over the weekend (three days exactly) while I worked on filling spots on the rest of the armor components.

Here's a visual representation of what you might be dealing with when filling spots. It seemed scary that I had that much to cover, but to be honest the spot filler is only going to make the parts smoother and more beautiful, so definitely use this as an opportunity to get very picky about what you are filling. I've found in some of my first runs filling spots I've actually missed some areas that I've gone back over and covered so I could have better outcomes.

The best ways I've found to actually find where to cover are first, to use a well lit area or have a light close and nearby while you look from many angles. This will point out the little areas to cover. Next after you've filled, let sit for 24 hours, and then wet sanded back down with 600 grit. If you can't see anything, prime it again. This will either prove you've covered what you intended and are ready to paint, or that you have missed some spots. Again, take your time with this. It will prove worth it in the long run.

Now from here I had let the previously painted pieces sit over the weekend and cure for a good 72 hours. I yesterday decided to take the risk again and use the enamel clear coat. And it worked out just fine. So I think I'm good to say that with Rustoleum 2x if you give yourself a good 72 hours before clear coat you shouldn't have the awful paint destruction like I had when I first did my helmet. Here's the results:

Finally,

I started the white paint on two more pieces that I had filled, primed and sanded.

Their turn to cure for 72 hours.

Forgive all the random messes. I'm using a lot of old plastic containers and all to rest the dried armor on just in case so I don't get it all over the house. I don't have very much room to store these in a garage or so at the moment.

More to come!

**FN1313[TK]** · July 25, 2018

Alright. Now that I'm more secure on knowing how to use this paint and clear coat here's my most recent update:

Finished up the Helmet. Letting it dry/cure and next Monday will enamel it (I'm giving it more than 3 days just because it's a real pain so I'm being more cautious with it.) I will also work on painting a few other parts so I can enamel them all next Monday.