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MFJ ANH Stunt build AP Kit


MFJ

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Photos would definitely help.

 

Right tool for snaps helps, although using a philips head screwdriver can help split the post so it gives more grip

 

 

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5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Photos would definitely help.

 

Right tool for snaps helps, although using a philips head screwdriver can help split the post so it gives more grip

 

 

As soon as I get home I'll get some taken. Ive tried 2 different styles. Same results. 

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Best tool I've found come in snap kits here, it has raised edges around the tip which help split and curl the post

024023-BRONZE.jpg

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So I finally found as much as I could on my kit. Such a relief that I found almost all of it. Now I remember why I stopped it. It's time to start attaching everything together. 

  I thought cutting and trimming were nerve wrecking..    Time to go through some other WIPs so I don't screw up. My Vader is so much easier. 

 Working on pic attachments now. 

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A question on this return edge on the kidney plate. Can I soften this return edge? It really sticks me in the side. Oh and BTW I got the snap tool in and I STILL can't do a snap and that's where I am right now......doing snaps. m4gpZPq.jpg

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10 hours ago, MFJ said:

A question on this return edge on the kidney plate. Can I soften this return edge? It really sticks me in the side. Oh and BTW I got the snap tool in and I STILL can't do a snap and that's where I am right now......doing snaps. m4gpZPq.jpg

 You could try to remove a little more and sand it really smooth:salute:

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Return edges thread is a great resource

Also some references in the Gallery sections 

gallery_12157_59_33373.jpg

gallery_12157_59_72377.jpggallery_12157_59_58227.jpggallery_12157_59_43133.jpg

 

 

 

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You can definitely remove some of the return edge around the sides (yellow line) for comfort, but If possible I would keep what you have in the rear of the kidney.  The more you have on the outside of the bracket bolts the less chance there is that the return edge will crack

 

 

c6VnAnm.jpg   kYEzQtj.jpg

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On 11/3/2021 at 9:51 PM, MFJ said:

 Oh and BTW I got the snap tool in and I STILL can't do a snap and that's where I am right now......doing snaps.

 

 

This vid might help? It's basically the same for doing snaps in webbing, but you burn a hole in the webbing with a soldering iron instead of using the punch.

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18 hours ago, revlimiter said:

 

 

This vid might help? It's basically the same for doing snaps in webbing, but you burn a hole in the webbing with a soldering iron instead of using the punch.

Ok now that looks easier than I'm doing it. I also think my snaps were wrong. It's like the post wasn't long enough. I just ordered Tandy 24 leather line snaps. 

The return edge also is a lot more comfortable now. I just removed a bit from the sides to keep it from digging in. 

I'm trying to keep 0 gap in the armor. 

 

Tonight is going to be more sanding of all the edges to make it look better

 

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3 hours ago, MFJ said:

Ok now that looks easier than I'm doing it. I also think my snaps were wrong. It's like the post wasn't long enough

 

I found this out the hard way too, didn't realize at first there were different length posts depending on what snaps you purchase, hopefully that solves your issues.

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8lT9Txp.jpg

Cleaning up the drop boxes. I lost one of the back boxes but I've contacted Mark at AP and he's getting me new back boxes and belt buttons. 

 

WhO5dhH.jpg

 

E6000 on the shims so I can attach them to the chest which needs a bit more sanding on the edges. But, it's some progress. Snaps should be here today. 

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6 hours ago, MFJ said:

WhO5dhH.jpg

 

E6000 on the shims so I can attach them to the chest which needs a bit more sanding on the edges. But, it's some progress. Snaps should be here today. 

With your shoulder straps it is a good idea to add some ABS sheet behind, they do bend a lot over time and can crack. Remember rough up both surfaces before applying glue.

 

You can also shorten the large end tab (if they fit on your armor well), as the short tab is more accurate on the rear. 

UrnD3dz.jpg?2  qb4YVKO.jpg?1   B3vL4VO.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, MFJ said:

I CAN SET SNAPS!!!!!!!! 

 

I know, I know, it's not a real huge accomplishment BUT it's been holding up a ton of work on this build. 

 

So maybe add more ABS under the ABS shoulder strips?

 

Congratulations, now "snap" to it and get this build done ;) 

 

I use an almost full piece, it's the top curved section which seems to take the brunt of flexing so having this go all the way will help in the long run. You can always leave it for now and see how you go, easy to replace using E6000

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12 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Congratulations, now "snap" to it and get this build done ;) 

 

I use an almost full piece, it's the top curved section which seems to take the brunt of flexing so having this go all the way will help in the long run. You can always leave it for now and see how you go, easy to replace using E6000

I wish I had more material to work with. 

 

I'm waiting on my belt from Trooperbay and my replacement belt boxes from Mark so I'm trying to get the fit I want just using tape for now. 

I need to do the thighs and shins attachment and also connect my bicep and forearms today and I can't find my under armor so I'll go get another pair today.

 

I'll have tentative fit pictures later. It's coming together now. 

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0oo1UNb.jpg

Arms connected.  

 

NnbUH3n.jpg

 

Inside connected

 

pN5YBtj.jpg

Shoulder bell snaps in. 

 

Plus I'm putting this little"guide" piece on the side of the ab. It'll never be seen but it helps to align everything until my belt gets here.

 

ryDpoDB.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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I dunno if this helps, but it's how I did my shoulder bridges.

 

tk43.jpg

 

Small bits of spare ABS to fill the voids. I slopped them in there with E6000. Then, while the E6000 was still curing, I added a piece of aluminum stock from Home Depot. I used the thinnest they had, which I think was 1/16 if I remember right. Glue in place and don't let the aluminum go all the way to either end of the bridge. Having a gap at the end allows you to heat and shape the ABS slightly to hide the metal completely. Last, I covered with fuzzy velcro.

 

It's extremely easy to reshape this way and it holds whatever shape you bend.  Other troopers have used this sort of metal shoulder bridge for years without problems.

 

Hope this helps! And congrats on the snap setting. :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

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