MFJ ANH Stunt build AP Kit

[MFJ]

On ‎6‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 2:47 AM, CableGuy said:

Good stuff. :-)

Yeah, I know the feeling. I have two lids from different suppliers and the vocoder moulds are significantly different. Keeping us on our toes. Lol

Keep it up though, mate. The lid painting is probably the hardest part, so once it’s out the way, you’re closer than ever to being a trooper. :-)


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Ok how is this looking? Vocoder defined, teeth fixed, teardrops, traps too. 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Nice work. Especially that vocoder. Good job. :-)


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[ABS80]

don't scrape paint off looks messy, its better to start from scratch, just remove using paint thinner and try until satisfied, practice makes perfect

 

Mark (AP)

[MFJ]

On ‎5‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 6:28 PM, CableGuy said:

Looking good so far. :-)

If you are going to apply new tube stripe decals or paint stencils/templates, feel free to stick up some pictures of them before you do. It looks like the ones you’ve applied could be on the opposite cheeks. The furthest front Stripe usually gives this away. :-)


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O I'm about to do the tube stripes. Which is left and which is right?

 

[wook1138[TK]]

13 minutes ago, MFJ said:

O I'm about to do the tube stripes. Which is left and which is right?

 

Top of pic is right side of helmet. 

[MFJ]

1 minute ago, wook1138 said:

Top of pic is right side of helmet. 

Thanks. I'll mark them and then I'll lay down some more paint and pull out the toothpicks. I've picked this helmet to death but finally I've cleaned up all of the lines and additional paint

[wook1138[TK]]

2 minutes ago, MFJ said:

Thanks. I'll mark them and then I'll lay down some more paint and pull out the toothpicks. I've picked this helmet to death but finally I've cleaned up all of the lines and additional paint

Yeah, the painting is not easy.  It almost broke me.  Take your time.

For the tube stripe templates, I found putting down a couple of very light coats at first helped a bit - this helps seal the template edges a bit.  For the final coat you will want to put it on a bit thicker so that it levels off nicely and you don't get brush streaks.  There will be some bleeding of the paint - can't be avoided.  Once you have enough paint on so that you are happy, remove the templates.  Let it dry overnight, then go back in with a toothpick to clean up.  Good Luck!

Keep it up - almost there!

[MFJ]

2 minutes ago, wook1138 said:

Yeah, the painting is not easy.  It almost broke me.  Take your time.

For the tube stripe templates, I found putting down a couple of very light coats at first helped a bit - this helps seal the template edges a bit.  For the final coat you will want to put it on a bit thicker so that it levels off nicely and you don't get brush streaks.  There will be some bleeding of the paint - can't be avoided.  Once you have enough paint on so that you are happy, remove the templates.  Let it dry overnight, then go back in with a toothpick to clean up.  Good Luck!

Keep it up - almost there!

Since the above pictures I've cleaned it up a ton more. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to paint it. Should I take the ear pieces off to lay the decals?

[wook1138[TK]]

2 minutes ago, MFJ said:

Since the above pictures I've cleaned it up a ton more. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to paint it. Should I take the ear pieces off to lay the decals?

I did.  It made it easier to manipulate the template into place.  If I remember correctly, the templates were a little long for my tubes - I didn't paint the back stripe (I painted 14 stripes on each side) and then I still had to remove one stripe from the back of the right side after I was done.  So, try fitting the template with the ears on first to double check before attaching them for painting. 

 

Here is what I did - note that I put the stencils on the wrong side!! 

 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=589733

 

[ABS80]

Templates work best when using a airbrush since paint comes out very thin so the edges will be nice and clean,  when using a paintbrush paint will tend to bleed threw and get messy edges.

 

Mark (AP)

[MFJ]

1 hour ago, ABS80 said:

Templates work best when using a airbrush since paint comes out very thin so the edges will be nice and clean,  when using a paintbrush paint will tend to bleed threw and get messy edges.

 

Mark (AP)

I put on multiple really light coats. Not too much run so it should clean up easily this time.  Mark can I ask you a question about the shoulder bells?

 

Edited June 7, 2018 by MFJ

[ABS80]

email me at  authenticprops@hotmail.com

[MFJ]

Should be the last fix to the paint on the helmet. If not, I'll boot it like a football.

 

[wook1138[TK]]

I'd say you are good to go. 

 

Don't boot it.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Good effort, sir.

IF you wanted to fine tune the tube stripe, a wooden tooth pick is the perfect tool.


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[hollowbodies[501st]]

Looks good! Don't forget to paint the screws in white, too!

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[MFJ]

Can I use rivets to secure the sniper plate? Glue isn't holding it. It's a it wonky but rivets would solve the problem.

[Asystole[TK]]

47 minutes ago, MFJ said:

Can I use rivets to secure the sniper plate? Glue isn't holding it. It's a it wonky but rivets would solve the problem.

The CRL states no visible rivets  on the sniper pad MFJ. Here is a link to it

http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero

Edited June 10, 2018 by Asystole

[Asystole[TK]]

With my AP I could get the edge lined up with a hot bath technique but the front of pad still looks slightly off.f

[Asystole[TK]]

Here is a pic from front. With work it turns ok 

Edited June 10, 2018 by Asystole

[CableGuy[TK]]

Can I use rivets to secure the sniper plate? Glue isn't holding it. It's a it wonky but rivets would solve the problem.

Hiya.

As Gary mentioned, no visible fixings for EIB or Centurion.

What method have you tried for gluing? Do you have some pics of your sniper knee in place?

Due to the pressure sometimes required to hold the sniper knee in place, you will need to leave it clamped on for at least 48hrs whilst the glue cures. If I remember correctly, I used around 5 clamps + magnets to secure mine.


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[MFJ]

35 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

 

Hiya.

As Gary mentioned, no visible fixings for EIB or Centurion.

What method have you tried for gluing? Do you have some pics of your sniper knee in place?

Due to the pressure sometimes required to hold the sniper knee in place, you will need to leave it clamped on for at least 48hrs whilst the glue cures. If I remember correctly, I used around 5 clamps + magnets to secure mine.


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I need to leave it longer and get stronger clamps then. At first it wasn't even close to fitting so I did the hot water treatment and got it closer. Now I can get it all lined up by manipulating it but when I take the clamps off it seems there isn't enough of a contact patch. I'll glue it again, double the clamps for more pressure and leave it for 2 days. I wasn't sure the bath would work but it did make it doable. I might use small c clamps to apply more pressure than the springs clamps. 

 

I'm making progress now. Both arms are done, I'm putting the "body" together now as I have it fitted to me. That's a pita by yourself. I'll post pictures of the progress so I can get feedback on what else I need to do , I'm sure there'll be something that can be done better. I'm taking bits and pieces from lots of your builds to build mine. 

[hollowbodies[501st]]

Also, for the sniper knee, try to glue one side at a time. Start with one side (I think I started with the front) and, as others said, let it dry long enough (more is better than not enough). After that, positon one other side as desired and clamp it/hold it in place as well as possible and glue it. After one side is done drying, it should generally stay in place when you do the other sides.

 

Also, don't hesitate putting way more glue than needed so that it gets fixed really well. You can always remove the excess glue once it has dried, so that's not a problem.

 

Keep up the good work - the sniper knee is always a difficult part ! ;P

 

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[MFJ]

10 hours ago, hollowbodies said:

Also, for the sniper knee, try to glue one side at a time. Start with one side (I think I started with the front) and, as others said, let it dry long enough (more is better than not enough). After that, positon one other side as desired and clamp it/hold it in place as well as possible and glue it. After one side is done drying, it should generally stay in place when you do the other sides.

 

Also, don't hesitate putting way more glue than needed so that it gets fixed really well. You can always remove the excess glue once it has dried, so that's not a problem.

 

Keep up the good work - the sniper knee is always a difficult part ! ;P

 

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10-4. That's what I'll do. I have a question on the 6 side rivets. Can I just put them in attached to nothing and use the double snap method on the inside instead? I think i read it should be elastic as well?

[hollowbodies[501st]]

The rivets need to be present and in good position (able to be seen from the outside and all according to the CRL), but on the inside, you can do what you want. Personally, I've seen different people do different things that worked for them without much problems, so I guess find something that works for you and you should be fine...

 

You can also look at many of the great build threads that exist around here as well - that might help you define what you want or give you some great ideas!

 

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