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Posted

Hello Paul,

 

for better understanding some pictures:

 

the left one:

 

2n4mkj4a.jpg

 

the right one:

 

tn3awkoo.jpg

 

the right one is on the left side, the larger one:

 

ulaleiq2.jpg

 

rg8i9buy.jpg

Posted

thats a big difference. my ata forearms are different sizes also but not as much.

  • Like 1
Posted

The left arm is a fan sculpt.. Not many people know this but the RS is about 3/4 cast from an original and not 100% like they would have you believe.

 

I don;t think there is much you can do about the shape. Just make it fit as best you can as mentioned.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, troopermaster said:

The left arm is a fan sculpt.. Not many people know this but the RS is about 3/4 cast from an original and not 100% like they would have you believe.

 

I don;t think there is much you can do about the shape. Just make it fit as best you can as mentioned.

Paul

 

You know which parts are fan sculpt?  I might be wrong but the shoulder straps, main belt, drop boxes, belt caps, ammo thigh and hand plates look fan sculpt 

 

Mark (AP)

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, ABS80 said:

Paul

 

You know which parts are fan sculpt?  I might be wrong but the shoulder straps, main belt, drop boxes, belt caps, ammo thigh and hand plates look fan sculpt 

 

Mark (AP)

Yes, the shoulder straps, knee plate, ab buttons and hand plates were supplied by me from my old set of moulds. The left bicep and forearm, main ammo belt, thigh ammo strap, drop boxes and belt rivet covers were sculpted by Rob. He did sculpt the missing inner parts to the shins but has gone back to using doubled up parts. The sculpted shin parts are why Anovos have funky shins.

 

 

Edited by troopermaster
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, troopermaster said:

Yes, the shoulder straps, knee plate, ab buttons and hand plates were supplied by me from my old set of moulds. The left bicep and forearm, main ammo belt, thigh ammo strap, drop boxes and belt rivet covers were sculpted by Rob. He did sculpt the missing inner parts to the shins but has gone back to using doubled up parts. The sculpted shin parts are why Anovos have funky shins.

 

 

Thank you for sharing!  They should specify in description its kind of misleading to customers as they think they are buying 100% original :(  you do great work you should get some credit

Edited by ABS80
Posted

Why do i think i should have known this befor?

 

Anyway ... i will go on and try to make it wearable and look some kind of wright.

  • Like 1
  • 9 months later...
Posted

After a long time, many things happenened in life and i think it´s time to reshape my helmet,

not sattisfied with the forehead.

But i did a mistake. I don´t use srews and nuts, i used rivets.

So ... why shouldn´t i use a dremel to get the rivets out?

 

And the answer is, because the rivets get hot and melt throw the abs ...

VJ6Gdlp.jpg

 

and the more important thing is, the rivets get very hot.

So allways protect your fingers, or you get burned ...

tgzx3Fi.jpg

 

Yes, you are correct. It´s the sign of a hot rivet.

But after all, i am pleased how the frown looks now.

VA8XJPV.jpg

Posted
After a long time, many things happenened in life and i think it´s time to reshape my helmet,

not sattisfied with the forehead.

But i did a mistake. I don´t use srews and nuts, i used rivets.

So ... why shouldn´t i use a dremel to get the rivets out?

 

And the answer is, because the rivets get hot and melt throw the abs ...

VJ6Gdlp.jpg&key=a7d4ad0ca122d808a1c9070cee2b9c422957892caec193ee24d85bd61bab80d8

 

and the more important thing is, the rivets get very hot.

So allways protect your fingers, or you get burned ...

tgzx3Fi.jpg&key=06c3bd1b126a330bd5ad1646e88479fe7e1dba431fae32d60d61e733be337764

 

Yes, you are correct. It´s the sign of a hot rivet.

But after all, i am pleased how the frown looks now.

VA8XJPV.jpg&key=417a9357239677d9a74e79731f01474496e6ddf62b22c486bde1b1e738bf5b38

Eek. Yes, drilling out rivets can be a pain. Nice and slowly reduces the risk of melting.

 

Out of interest, what made you choose to move the brow so low? Most ANH Stunt helmets had a nice gap above the eyes, including the RS helmet that yours was cast from.

 

 

Original RS helmet;

c3b7ce86c0773d4babf3f13abc758af5.jpg&key=099030e66bbf473d33d031c15d9984d4063029e370193ba01d6a78b3c3319a9a

 

 

 

Random selection from ANH and ESB

 

5a1928a32a4a478ddaf41f40b60e368c.jpg&key=fd682de9ca8fb6c65fe57a4b7a37b94ba36708f8c37085737a0cb48c0522bd65

Posted

I have to take another picture. I just fixed the two parts of the helmet with one screw on each side in place of the ears,

so the two halfs tilt a little bit. Depending how you hold the helmet, the brow is high, or lower.

I have to decide and to try out, where to set the rivets at the bottom.

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Out of interest, what made you choose to move the brow so low? Most ANH Stunt helmets had a nice gap above the eyes, including the RS helmet that yours was cast from.

 

I like the low-brow. I saw on most pictures the low-brow at the hero-helmets, but i can´t help my self. It is like it is and i know i have to lift the brow a little bit.

  • Like 1
Posted
I have to take another picture. I just fixed the two parts of the helmet with one screw on each side in place of the ears,
so the two halfs tilt a little bit. Depending how you hold the helmet, the brow is high, or lower.
I have to decide and to try out, where to set the rivets at the bottom.
I like the low-brow. I saw on most pictures the low-brow at the hero-helmets, but i can´t help my self. It is like it is and i know i have to lift the brow a little bit.

Cool. Fair comment. :-)
Posted

Ideally I find using a very sharp drill on low speed while gripping on to the rear of the rivet with pliers the best. You can always use some washers and nuts and bolts now that you have the rivets out

  • Like 1

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