11B30B4’s ROTK Build

[11b30b4[TK]]

Guys thanks for the input. Based on your suggestions, I have already fixed the shoulder bells and drop boxes, I can cut down the ab plate tonight. I have already started applying the flex seal to the inside fo the armor so I wont be able to put anything on for another 24-48 hours. 

[darthcue[TK]]

Great job on your helmet bro! Just to comment on the paint on the brow trim. it should not be glossy because it is rubber, the same as the vocoder.

[11b30b4[TK]]

TK-20980 reporting for duty. Approved and I got the shirt ordered last night!!!! My GML has been watching this build thread and echoed what you guys have said here for me to correct, but I am approved and a full-fledged member of the 501^st now.

 

Update,

As I stated earlier, I have already adjusted the drop boxes so they hang just shy of ½” and I altered the straps that the shoulder bells hang from so that they are about ¼” from the shoulder straps. I held off on cutting down the ab plate until I get a second set of hands to mark them (most likely Thursday). As Big Deal had pointed out previously and darthcue stated here, the gloss over the painted parts on the helmet should not be glossy. I will grab a rattle can of flat or sating clear tonight and mask off the areas to be coated. So I need to know if the other areas that were painted need to be flat as well. Specifically the thermal detonator and the black side plates?

 

Other than getting approval, reclaiming my workshop has been one of my primary motivators.

 

 

I also redid the inside of my helmet. I used a combination of Army combat helmet pads and some floor foam to make the harness. It is way more comfortable and provides for better air flow. I went ahead and built my two fan system and installed it along with the power pack. I will continue to use tape to hold the vents in place until I come up with an effective method to mount them. I will not be apply flex seal to the inside of the bucket because I do not want to add anything that will help insulate the helmet and make it hotter than it already is.

 

 

Flex seal application has gone well and mostly everything is coated and drying for the next 24 hours.

 

 

 

 

So let’s discuss where I go from here. I will be building the Jedah patrol pack and a T-21 then weathering my TK to get TD approval. None of that will be finished until after DragonCon so I should get one or more troops under my belt before apply for TD approval.

 

So for the T-21, I am considering two different approaches and wanted to get you guys input. The first option is to order a cast version of the parts from someone casting them either here on FISD or MEPD. This will include everything except the barrel which will be made from PVC. I think this kit sells for 100+ dollars.

The second option is to order the completely disassembled 3D model from a guy on Etsy for 50.00. I can print the parts I need and still make the barrel from PVC. What do you guys think?

 

I will be starting a build thread over on MEPD for these parts and I will link it here once I make that move. I will continue to update this thread until the TK is completely done. I wanted to thank you all for the support and assistance you guys have provided me here. FISD will always be my first home for my first 501^st costume.

 

Well that is it for the update. Thanks for the interest.

Edited July 23, 2018 by 11b30b4

[LTM[TK]]

Awesome Job, very well done. Showing the good with the bad and corrections you have made is very encouraging to other builders. I guess if I ever go R1 I know who to contact 

 

As to the gun, do you want electronics in/on it? If you think you will troop a lot, maybe something like a rubber gun so no need to worry about dropping it. 

You saw my E-11, I have the hyperfirm T-19 that I will be modifying for electronics to get the best of both worlds. 

[11b30b4[TK]]

LTM, thanks for suggestion. I am not sure which way I will go but I will keep the rubber gun in mind. 

 

So I forgot to mention that the nuts keep coming loose from the underside of the shoulder straps. I have removed them and filled in the drilled holes with PC-7. I am wondering exactly how you guys attached your shoulder straps to the back plate? My concern is the Jedah patrol pack will knock them loose if I just use Velcro.

[DEVOLVER[501st]]

Awesome, man! Congrats on approval and welcome to the 501st! The armor looks incredible and the helmet interior is great. I hope you decide to apply for EIB and Centurion. 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Congratulations Jeff!!!!! Love this build and the results are awesome for all the time and effort you put in it. The paint job looks great. i really want to do an R1 trooper after seeing your build. Can’t wait until you get the backpack in their too. Awesome!

[darthcue[TK]]

Congrats on your approval bro Jeff! How many are we now ROTKs in the Legion?


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[darthcue[TK]]

TK-20980 reporting for duty. Approved and I got the shirt ordered last night!!!! My GML has been watching this build thread and echoed what you guys have said here for me to correct, but I am approved and a full-fledged member of the 501^st now.
 
Update,
As I stated earlier, I have already adjusted the drop boxes so they hang just shy of ½” and I altered the straps that the shoulder bells hang from so that they are about ¼” from the shoulder straps. I held off on cutting down the ab plate until I get a second set of hands to mark them (most likely Thursday). As Big Deal had pointed out previously and darthcue stated here, the gloss over the painted parts on the helmet should not be glossy. I will grab a rattle can of flat or sating clear tonight and mask off the areas to be coated. So I need to know if the other areas that were painted need to be flat as well. Specifically the thermal detonator and the black side plates?
 
Other than getting approval, reclaiming my workshop has been one of my primary motivators.
 

 
I also redid the inside of my helmet. I used a combination of Army combat helmet pads and some floor foam to make the harness. It is way more comfortable and provides for better air flow. I went ahead and built my two fan system and installed it along with the power pack. I will continue to use tape to hold the vents in place until I come up with an effective method to mount them. I will not be apply flex seal to the inside of the bucket because I do not want to add anything that will help insulate the helmet and make it hotter than it already is.
 

 
Flex seal application has gone well and mostly everything is coated and drying for the next 24 hours.
 

 

 

 
So let’s discuss where I go from here. I will be building the Jedah patrol pack and a T-21 then weathering my TK to get TD approval. None of that will be finished until after DragonCon so I should get one or more troops under my belt before apply for TD approval.
 
So for the T-21, I am considering two different approaches and wanted to get you guys input. The first option is to order a cast version of the parts from someone casting them either here on FISD or MEPD. This will include everything except the barrel which will be made from PVC. I think this kit sells for 100+ dollars.
The second option is to order the completely disassembled 3D model from a guy on Etsy for 50.00. I can print the parts I need and still make the barrel from PVC. What do you guys think?
 
I will be starting a build thread over on MEPD for these parts and I will link it here once I make that move. I will continue to update this thread until the TK is completely done. I wanted to thank you all for the support and assistance you guys have provided me here. FISD will always be my first home for my first 501^st costume.
 
Well that is it for the update. Thanks for the interest.

Grey parts on the armor and helmet are flat not glossy bro. Your Black side plates are fine as is because they are glossy.


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[11b30b4[TK]]

Devolver, Thanks and I am planning on going for EIB and possibly Cent. The helmet opening trim keeps getting scratched up even though it’s clear coated so I am considering masking it off and painting it with black flex seal. If this comes out nice I may do the same with the brow trim.

 

Brain, Thanks brother. I have some thoughts about the flexible fiberglass vs HIPS that I will talk about later in the post.

 

Darthcue, it looks to be about 7 but there may be some people who have built one and not reported their progress here in FISD. I was paging through several of the build threads and noticed several people (Big Deal) have started their builds but not finished them and Most of them started before me...So I think we should be hitting up these guys and pushing them to complete their ROTKs (ahem, Big Deal).

 

Also, as I was looking at the build threads I found NaturalBornDT’s thread. This guy is scratch building the abdominal armor for his build. Reminds me of Yosh’s build and I am really impressed with his progress.

 

Darthcue, thank you for the reply about the flat vs glossy. Are we sure the sides are glossy? I have already sprayed them with flat clear……

 

Update,

Alright, so like I stated previously, the nuts in the shoulder straps keep coming loose. I removed them completely and filled in the holes with PC-7 and let it cure for 24 hours. I stopped at Ace hardware and spent an hour in the specialty hardware looking at various parts and thinking of ideas when I found these threaded inserts. I snagged a few of them and tested this out in a piece of wood. Once I was fairly confident this would work, I drilled ¼” holes all the way through the shoulder straps where they matched the holes of the back plate. I screwed-in the insert and then test fitted the whole thing on the back plate.

 

 

 

The small crack you see next to the left hole is only a cosmetic crack in the paint. But this does bring up my only real concern about using this method. Given how the fiberglass has cracked in other areas I am hoping that it will be strong enough to hold the threaded inserts and no crack or break.

Ok, so I used a ¼” hole punch on some painter tape and made some small ¼” circles that I placed insde the top of these holes to prevent anything from getting on the threads then filled the holes with Bondo.

 

While the Bondo was curing, I need to add a metal D-ring to the end cap of my HFX E-11. I had a sling ring in my gun junk bin that closely matched the actual D-ring. Ok it’s not exactly oval but close enough and I needed something for EIB.

 

 

I masked off all the stuff that needed to be sprayed with the flat clear and sprayed this stuff. I did this before seeing the post from darthcue telling me that the side plates are glossy. I can sand them and go back and reshoot them with clear.

 

 

 

 

Once the Bondo was cured on the shoulder straps, I sanded them and applied a layer of glaze putty then sanded again. I mixed up a small amount of the white base coat and sprayed them. 45 minutes later I clear coated them. I did have a spot on one of the biceps where I removed some Velcro and it pulled the paint off the bicep. So I masked it, sanded the primer and reshot paint and clear on it as well.

 

 

And that is it for the update. Thanks for the interest.

 

[Thumpy~[501st]]

On 7/23/2018 at 11:00 AM, 11b30b4 said:

. . . .I am approved and a full-fledged member of the 501^st now.. . 

 

 

Congrats Jeff!  Well deserved! 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Congratulations Jeff

[darthcue[TK]]

I am sure the side plates are gloss black bro Jeff...


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[Big Deal]

Speaking of the side plates, Is it okay to cut them back? I have enough to encircle me, but really only 5" or so are visible on each side.

[darthcue[TK]]

Speaking of the side plates, Is it okay to cut them back? I have enough to encircle me, but really only 5" or so are visible on each side.

You can cut them to fit bro...


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[Big Deal]

Thanks. I think they'll be easier to fasten and work with if trimmed down. I just didn't want too trim them if they served some unseen purpose.

[Big Deal]

On 7/24/2018 at 9:39 AM, 11b30b4 said:

Darthcue, it looks to be about 7 but there may be some people who have built one and not reported their progress here in FISD. I was paging through several of the build threads and noticed several people (Big Deal) have started their builds but not finished them and Most of them started before me...So I think we should be hitting up these guys and pushing them to complete their ROTKs (ahem, Big Deal).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am still plugging away. I'm just nowhere near as efficient as you have been on this build. Thighs are resized, I've changed how my ab surround closed and have done a little filling to get ready for some primer on a few more parts. Slow, but stumbling along. 

 

I will add that although I always thought I'd do a shiney white Trooper, as I've primed and painted and sanded a few parts, the weathered and distressed look is pretty cool. I also think the slight grit of the Jedha troopers really helps all of the details to stand out.

[11b30b4[TK]]

Thumpy~ thank you.

 

Ukswrath, thank you, I will be contacting you at some point for an icom static burst setup.

 

Darthcue, The side plate looks satin or semi-gloss but not glossy to me but, I am fine with reshooting mine to be glossy. What is with the side plate in the pic you posted? I have noticed it in a that pic and a few others. Looks like they are two parts and velcroed together. Oh well, Jim couldn’t get all the armor exactly as the screen used sets since his access to images was very limited at the time when he cast this armor set.

 

Big Deal, yep you can cut them. I like how Yosh did his where he snaps them to the back plate and velcros them to the chest plate. I wish I had done that so I could detach them but I was not thinking when I hard mounted them to the back plate. No worries on your progress, I just wanted to prod you so that you can be the next approved ROTK. I also agree with all the detail in the kit, weathering will look great.

 

Update,

I realize that in my previous post I eluded to talking about the flexible fiberglass vs HIPS and I never got around to actually doing that so I will do that first.

 

The flexible fiberglass that Jim uses is cool stuff but it has its issues. For that matter, any material uses to make costume armor has pros and cons. I have experience with HIPS since I molded and Vacuum Formed (VF) my Mandalorian armor. When I first considered doing a TK, the only kits I was aware of where HIPS kits. As several people have noted, the ROTK has more detail and getting that detail with VF is very difficult but not impossible.

From working with this kit and not even performing a troop yet, I have noticed several cracks at stress points where I use Velcro to close parts. Consider the lower leg armor. If you permanently attach the two parts along the front seam and use the back seam to open and close the armor, you will most likely get cracks along the top of the armor closer to the front seam since you must open the armor enough to slide your leg into it. The thighs and biceps can be closed with Velcro as is required by the CRLs but you may never need to open them again since they can be slipped on over the limbs. So VF HIPS can crack as well but its way more flexible than this fiberglass in my opinion.

 

Another issue with the fiberglass is that it must be painted and given the need for the armor to be flexible, the paint and clear coat needs to be somewhat flexible so it will not crack and flake off. This is why I chose to go with an automotive paint. Think about a door panel on a car. You can push on it and allow it to flex an inch or so. The paint will not crack unless you really bend it. Even serious dents will often not crack the paint. I just don’t think you can get that kind of resilience from spray paint. Alternatively, with VF HIPS, glossy white is widely available and would not need to be painted.

 

Lastly, since fiberglass is rough on the inside, it needs to be coated with something to create a barrier between the undersuit or your body and the armor or it will wear holes in the undersiuit and be very itchy. VF HIPS does not require an interior coating.

 

So the differences between the ROTK and the OTTKs seems to boil down to the helmet, Abdomen detail, and back plate detail (OII). Most of the other parts can be modified from a standard TK kit, at least enough to be within the CRLs for basic approval; albeit, lacking in the level of detail that you get from Jim’s kit.

 

So considering these pro’s and cons, I think that each person needs to decide which route they are willing to go with building a ROTK. Like I said in my previous post, seeing what NaturalBornDT has done with his VF abdomen I am really intrigued with the idea of a VF ROTK possibility.

 

And now back to the update.

Last night I shot the black flex seal on the helmet opening trim. It came out nice. I do not know how resilient it will be but it looks good and should help to prevent scratching the bottom of the helmet. My only concern is that it will mark the shoulder straps where the helmet hits them when worn but I cannot determine this until I wear it and see how its does.

 

 

 

 

Here are the shoulder straps after I sanded, primed and repainted them. This is before the clear was applied.

 

 

And this is the bicep after painting and before clear coat.

 

 

Lastly here is a good shot of the flat clear applied to the brow trim, tears, and temples, etc…

 

 

I will reshoot the side plates with gloss tonight and get to work on reinstalling everything in the helmet. I am hoping for some updated pics of the full kit before this weekend with the corrections listed previously.

 

Thanks for the interest.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Very clean work Jeff 

[sskunky]

I echo what others have already said. Nicely done. Be interested to see how this holds up to trooping. 

[11b30b4[TK]]

Ukswrath, thank you.

Sskunky, thank you for the compliment and I agree, I am also looking forward to seeing how this kit will hold up for troops.

 

Update,

So last night I finished getting the helmet squared away. After close examination I did notice a faint line on the back panel sections. I am guessing that I must have applied more primer to this area than I had thought and almost filled them in completely. Anyway, I masked off the back panels and painted the lines black then shot them with flat clear. I think they came out well for barely not being visible.

 

 

Next, I glued in the tabs that hold all the fabric screens in place. This will be a semi-permanent mounting where I will need to break the tabs off to remove the screens and I will need to make new tabs to reinstall them. I glued these tabs in place with three different methods because for some reason one method would only work in certain areas of the helmet???? So I used hot glue, 2 part loc-tite 1 minute epoxy, and superglue with activator and/or baking soda. Anyway, between these three methods I got all the screens mounted with the tabs instead of using tape. After that I installed new Velcro, the lenses, padding and fans.

 

 

Here are some pics of the completed helmet.

 

 

 

 

 

Oh, and why would I be taking these other pics?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After that I started lining the transport box and making individual protective bags out of thin fleece blankets I got from Walmart for each armor part. I have another AP tonight so I am hoping to cut down the abdominal armor sides. I have not shot the glossy clear on the side plates yet but I am in no rush to do that until after the AP.

 

Thanks for the interest.

[Big Deal]

Two questions:

 

1. How did you attach the mouth mesh?

 

2. Are your chest and back supported by the shoulder straps or are they free floating and did you cut them back to fit?

[darthcue[TK]]

Ukswrath, thank you.
Sskunky, thank you for the compliment and I agree, I am also looking forward to seeing how this kit will hold up for troops.
 
Update,
So last night I finished getting the helmet squared away. After close examination I did notice a faint line on the back panel sections. I am guessing that I must have applied more primer to this area than I had thought and almost filled them in completely. Anyway, I masked off the back panels and painted the lines black then shot them with flat clear. I think they came out well for barely not being visible.
 

 
Next, I glued in the tabs that hold all the fabric screens in place. This will be a semi-permanent mounting where I will need to break the tabs off to remove the screens and I will need to make new tabs to reinstall them. I glued these tabs in place with three different methods because for some reason one method would only work in certain areas of the helmet???? So I used hot glue, 2 part loc-tite 1 minute epoxy, and superglue with activator and/or baking soda. Anyway, between these three methods I got all the screens mounted with the tabs instead of using tape. After that I installed new Velcro, the lenses, padding and fans.
 

 
Here are some pics of the completed helmet.
 

 

 

 

 
Oh, and why would I be taking these other pics?
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
After that I started lining the transport box and making individual protective bags out of thin fleece blankets I got from Walmart for each armor part. I have another AP tonight so I am hoping to cut down the abdominal armor sides. I have not shot the glossy clear on the side plates yet but I am in no rush to do that until after the AP.
 
Thanks for the interest.

Awesome paintjob your helmet bro Jeff. Just want to point out that you miss two parts of the teeth that supposed to be painted gray. Knowing your skills in building and painting it will be as easy as pie to fix.

Here is a reference picture...




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[11b30b4[TK]]

Big Deal, the mouth mesh was cut about ½” larger than the mouth then hot glued in place. The chest and back are supported by the shoulder straps and side plates. Think of them at the 4 supports that connect the back and chest. This assembly then hovers over the abdomen although, hover is not really the best word. It fits snugly over the abdomen. See if these pictures helps any.

 

 

 

 

Darthcue, thank you for pointing out the two end teeth. I should be able to correct that this weekend.

 

Ok guys, I need your input… Other than the two outer teeth need paint on the helmet, please look over these pics and let me know if I am ready for EIB and Centurion approval. I think I have met all the requirement for both categories. Pending your input here, I will paint the two teeth Darthcue noted and re-shoot pics of the helmet and submit my applications for EIB then Centurion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I await your comments. Thanks for the interest.

[sskunky]

Awesome job. Looks fantastic.