11B30B4’s ROTK Build

[11b30b4[TK]]

DarthBiscuit, I did reinforce some areas with PC-7 (2-part epoxy paste) and I coated the entire inside of all armor with white liquid Flex Seal; however, I do not recommend apply the flex seal unless you are 100% sure where you want to place Velcro and mask those areas off. 3M backed Velcro will not stick to the Flex Seal and removal of cured Flex Seal is next to impossible.

I chose to coat the inside of the armor with Flex Seal to minimize the abrasion of the fiberglass on the under suit but I did not realize that if I needed to remove a spot of Flex Seal to add some Velcro, the Flex Seal bonds to the fiberglass and even sanding it off will not fully remove it.

[11b30b4[TK]]

A few people have asked how I mounted my TD and ammo boxes. Originally, I mounted the ammo boxes with pop rivets but they later came loose or pulled through the boxes. I mounted my Td with machine screws and T-nuts so I went back and did this with the ammo boxes as well. This method take a little longer but gives you the ability to remove the items if you need to. 

So here is my TD mounted to the hard back belt. Notice the 4 screws, this is how they are mounted.

 

 

You will need the following:

4ea #8-32 x ¼” T-nuts

4ea #8-32 x ½” Combo Truss Head Zinc Machine Screws

PC-7 Two-Part Epoxy Resin

Dike pliers (Cutting)

Drill with ¼” drill bit

Dremel with cutting arbor

220 grit sandpaper

 

 

First, I placed the TD on the hard belt properly centered and aligned and traced the outline of the mount on the belt with a pencil.

 

 

Next, I drilled 4 corner holes on the mounting face of the TD to create a box large enough to get my fingers or tools inside the TD but also leaving enough material on the mounting surface for the T-nuts to bond with.

 

Next, I used the Dremel to connect the 4 drilled holes thereby creating the square hole. Using 220 grit sandpaper I rounded the edges of the new hole and I rouged up the inside of the TD where the T-nuts will mount.

 

Next, I marked on the back hard belt where the machine screw holes will be in relation to the traced outline of the mount and where the square hole was made. Be sure you leave enough space around the edges for the T-nut to fit inside the TD and not hit the walls of the TD mount.

 

Next, using the ¼” drill bit, drill the 4 screw holes in the hard belt.

 

Next, hold, tape in place, clamp, or brace the TD properly aligned to the hard belt and drill through the hard belt to drill the screw holes in the TD.

 

Next, using a dike pliers (cutting), cut the 4 prongs off the T-nuts as close to the surface as you can.

 

 

Next, mix up 2 tablespoons of PC-7 (1 tablespoon of each component A & B).

 

Next, using a finger smooth some of the PC-7 inside the TD where each T-nut will mount. Insert each T-nut from the inside of the TD to protrude through each ¼” hole, then smooth the remainder of the PC-7 on top of the T-nuts blending the PC-with the inside of the TD to completely bond the T-nuts with the TD and let it cure overnight.

 

Lastly mount the TD to the hard belt with the machine screws. This allows for you to remove the TD if you need to.

 

I used this same method for the ammunition boxes on the front hard belt.

 

 

I hope this helps for anyone looking to mount stuff with screws.

 

[Jake04]

On 7/22/2018 at 6:42 PM, 11b30b4 said:

Guys thanks for the input. Based on your suggestions, I have already fixed the shoulder bells and drop boxes, I can cut down the ab plate tonight. I have already started applying the flex seal to the inside fo the armor so I wont be able to put anything on for another 24-48 hours. 

Hey can I buy a helmet like yours?

[Jake04]

Hey can I buy a helmet like yours, it’s looks so identical to the rouge one

[tat2trooper[TK]]

This is looking awesome bro. Cant wait to see that bucket fully finished.

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

5 hours ago, Jake04 said:

Hey can I buy a helmet like yours, it’s looks so identical to the rouge one

Jeff's bucket is a Jimmiroquai fiberglass helmet, cast by Jim Tripon in the Philippines very likely using a Black Series as a base, then significantly modified. The Black Series is based on the newer Rogue One/"Anthology"/"Non-Saga" style, as is this helmet and armor. You can email Jim to purchase one, but he does not sell completed/painted helmets or kits, just raw. 

[11b30b4[TK]]

Wow, I am off the internet for a few days and get swamped with notifications. Justin, thank you for chiming in. 

 

Jake04, Justin is correct the helmet for this build was a Jimmiroquai helmet and they come unfinished. It is possible to modify a Black Series helmet to look very much like this on. There is a link to my mod in my signature (ROTK BS MOD). another option is to purchase the 3D print files from Nico Henderson, his helmet is very accurate.

 

tat2trooper, thank you but this kit has been finished for some time; although, I am always updating it. 

[CountCunning]

On 4/30/2018 at 8:19 AM, 11b30b4 said:

Hello everyone, I got some work done this weekend on the helmet.

 

After I had rough cut all the holes in the helmet, I used the dremel and some mini files to finish out the holes. Here is a shot of the back vents after they have been cleaned up.

 

 

Next, I took some think HIPS and cut it to fit then heated it with a heat gun and fit the parts inside the helmet.

 

 

This is how it looks from the outside.

 

 

Next, I sanded the whole helmet with 250 grit and primed it.

 

 

This made an impression of the vents on the vent covers. I then removed the vent covers and traced outside the vent area with a sharpie. I will be cutting out the traced area then gluing in breathable color matched fabric.

 

 

I took a trip to JoAnn’s fabrics and found this polyester/ spandex that is a very close match to the painters tape blue.

 

 

I will be using some black polyester fabric for the other vents. I have not decied if I will make the vent covers removable or not. I am concerned that the fabric will become soiled after some time and need to be replaced.

 

Next, I started sanding with 320 grit to determine what needed to be filled and cleaned up.

 

 

Unfortunately, I realized that the glazing putty I had was three years old and dried up and there are no auto body paint supply stores open on Sunday so I will need to wait till this week to continue to work on the helmet.

And that is the update so far. Thanks for the interest.

Just now perusing some more of these build threads and I've got to say that your work looks fantastic!

 

I'm really new to working with armour kits, so I was wondering if you'd be able to answer a question for me. I've been slowly working away at my Jimmiroquai ROTK bucket, but I don't know where to begin when it comes to sanding it. Aside from any obvious casting seams, is there anything I should be looking for that needs to be sanded/filled?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, CountCunning said:

I'm really new to working with armour kits, so I was wondering if you'd be able to answer a question for me. I've been slowly working away at my Jimmiroquai ROTK bucket, but I don't know where to begin when it comes to sanding it. Aside from any obvious casting seams, is there anything I should be looking for that needs to be sanded/filled?

I found with Jims helmets that there is the odd bump or lump or low area, an easy way to find this is give a light mist coat of black then when you sand you will see some black will be removed and some with still be there, this shows you high and low areas, you can then fill the lower spots and sand the higher spots.

 

For base sanding of primer or spray putty I use a 240 grit wet and dry sandpaper and use soapy water as it helps the sandpaper from clogging as quickly.

 

 

 

[11b30b4[TK]]

CountCunning, thank you for you comments and you question. gmrhodes13 suggestion is correct. If I recall back to 2018 when I did this build, all this was fairly new to me. As you may have found from my post as well as others, Jimms fiberglass material does have a lot of small voids. Pinholes that are very hard to locate and fill. For the les flexible parts such as the helmet, I found a product at home depot called DAP Plastic Wood X. I mix some of this stuff with water and spread it on the helmet by hand. Once dry, you can start sanding, and this should fill most of those pinholes. Its also great on 3d printed stuff.

 

As for sanding, I start with 100 or 150 grit hand sanding and work through grits t 320 or 400. So the steps should be 100, 150, 180, 220, 320. for 400 and above, wet sand. It is not necessary to go all the way to 400, in fact 320 is probably the best grit to stop at and still ensure good adhesion for primer and paint. Pay close attention to the detail areas around the eyes, and panel lines. You can also use the DAP to enhance the eye bump if you desire.

Good luck on your build.

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

On 5/3/2022 at 1:17 PM, CountCunning said:

Just now perusing some more of these build threads and I've got to say that your work looks fantastic!

I'm really new to working with armour kits, so I was wondering if you'd be able to answer a question for me. I've been slowly working away at my Jimmiroquai ROTK bucket, but I don't know where to begin when it comes to sanding it. Aside from any obvious casting seams, is there anything I should be looking for that needs to be sanded/filled?

Thanks in advance!

 

My biggest advice is just to get a couple solid (ideally, alternating color) coats of primer on it, and don't sand down past that and back into the fiberglass whenever possible (for all pieces) - sanding the actual glass just opens up MORE tiny pinholes from embedded air bubbles. Also ensure ALL of your cuts are finalized before paint... you don't want to go back and do touchups. All the above advice from Jeff and Q is good, and I'll add that I'm also a fan of wet sanding. Just don't go too ham or you'll lose details/sharp edges, or use a crazy high gloss on top - the studio suits are like semi-gloss at best. Good luck!

[CountCunning]

On 4/25/2018 at 7:09 PM, 11b30b4 said:

Decided to start on the helmet until I can get some feedback on the armor parts. Tonight I rough cut all the openings. I have decided to cut out the tears and back panel lines as well. I will back them with a black breathable fabric and hopefully it will improve ventilation.

 

 

 

This weekend I will file the openings and make them uniform. 

Thanks for the interest.

Which Dremel bits are those? I've been meaning to replace my old, dead Dremel with a new one this year and (if they don't come with an included accessory kit) I'd not mind shelling out for a couple of extra bits to make this and future projects easier.

[CountCunning]

On 4/30/2018 at 8:19 AM, 11b30b4 said:

Hello everyone, I got some work done this weekend on the helmet.

 

After I had rough cut all the holes in the helmet, I used the dremel and some mini files to finish out the holes. Here is a shot of the back vents after they have been cleaned up.

 

 

Next, I took some think HIPS and cut it to fit then heated it with a heat gun and fit the parts inside the helmet.

 

 

This is how it looks from the outside.

 

 

Next, I sanded the whole helmet with 250 grit and primed it.

 

 

This made an impression of the vents on the vent covers. I then removed the vent covers and traced outside the vent area with a sharpie. I will be cutting out the traced area then gluing in breathable color matched fabric.

 

 

I took a trip to JoAnn’s fabrics and found this polyester/ spandex that is a very close match to the painters tape blue.

 

 

I will be using some black polyester fabric for the other vents. I have not decied if I will make the vent covers removable or not. I am concerned that the fabric will become soiled after some time and need to be replaced.

 

Next, I started sanding with 320 grit to determine what needed to be filled and cleaned up.

 

 

Unfortunately, I realized that the glazing putty I had was three years old and dried up and there are no auto body paint supply stores open on Sunday so I will need to wait till this week to continue to work on the helmet.

And that is the update so far. Thanks for the interest.

What is your process for sanding after priming? How do you determine what needs filling and cleaning up? This has always been a part of the build process that's confused me. Are there any YouTube videos or build threads out there that you'd recommend watching or reading for an in-depth/step-by-step guide on how this all works? Thanks in advance!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

9 hours ago, CountCunning said:

What is your process for sanding after priming? How do you determine what needs filling and cleaning up? This has always been a part of the build process that's confused me. Are there any YouTube videos or build threads out there that you'd recommend watching or reading for an in-depth/step-by-step guide on how this all works? Thanks in advance!

 

Using a light of black can help show areas that are high and low qith sanding. I sand wet with a drop of dish washing liquid, help the sandpaper to glide and not clog as much. 240 for spray putty (Primer filler) and either 400 or 600 geit for Primer