BananoPower22[TK] Posted March 23, 2018 Report Posted March 23, 2018 Hey there troops! I’ve been out of the TK suit for a while but I’m really happy to say that I got a brand new (untrimmed) AP kit and I’m very much excited to start once again on this journey. My first kit was a heavily modified AM with some other pieces that helped me achieve a more accurate look despise my big size. Aiming for the stars this time, I’ll be going back and forth through trial and error until I can get my armor up to Centurion standards. My first goal is to probably start with the helmet and once I’m done with that I’ll start trimming the armor. I’ve got a dremel which I’ve used for my past builds and it’s still working like the first day I bought it. I also got some lexan scissors just in case ( not entirely sure if I should use the scissors or the dremel) The plastic pieces are all accounted for and the thermal detonator tube is also present along with the metal clips. I’m still missing a few pieces such as: Canvas belt Neckseal Rubber Gloves Latex Handplates (I am 20% sure I’ve got a pair I bought but never managed to glue them to the rubber gloves, so I mostly trooped with the plastic ones) Accurate boots E6000 Clamps Snaps, Rivets, split rivers? The whole load of snaps for a good and sturdy strapping so everything stays where it should be and not complain whenever I see myself in pictures saying: “ this shouldn’t look like this....” GUTS to trim the armor All in all I haven’t started anything yet. I’ll be doing some research and looking up some pictures and making a folder for references. I’m aiming for a high brow looking stunt look (very surprised look as some say. Im not a fan of low brows unless they’re Hero ) Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted March 23, 2018 Report Posted March 23, 2018 Welcome back trooper!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Neb Sgird[TK] Posted March 25, 2018 Report Posted March 25, 2018 You got this! Feel free to voice questions here as you research. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 26, 2018 Report Posted March 26, 2018 Good luck! Lots of great references in the Gallery here. Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 So I’ve had my hands full of plastic the past few days trimming most of the armor pieces but decided to slow down, not rush it at all and try to make it as accurate as possible, starting with the helmet, my favorite part. I’ve always been a fan of the high brow look and, during the past months (years?) a number of new kits have popped up and they’ve all got some particular bits and pieces that make them recognizable. Puerto Rico Garrison has a lot of TKs (about time!), but I’d like to stand out a bit more- looking a bit more surprised with a high brow. I’m not entirely sure if the ANOVOS kits helmets are prebuilt as I’ve never seen a build of these but they all kind of look... the same. I like the variety each Trooper in ANH had such a brow positions and how lens were cut. I’ve already cut the eyes out using references from screen used and fan made helmets as well as some of some local and other brother troops in the world out there. Now - my real question here is how to achieve this look? I’m 99% positive I don’t have to alter the cap’n back. I was thinking more like trimming a bit from the “forehead” area that goes inside the helmet, so it’s not really visible to the public. Any input on this? The move along TD had a high brow which I love, but I don’t wanna take it all the way up there and have some room to play with it until I’m really content with the look. This is how it currently looks as I’ve not altered anything but the eyes which I’ve already cut out and I’m headed next for the teeth area and I really want these teeth to look menacing and sharp. Y’know, Tantive IV(ish) like we mean business and Vader is right up behind us. So, shall I trim the forehead just a bit, maybe round off the corners/lower it a bit more? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 After some xacto and lexan scissors action... I’ll call it a night. Tomorrow I’ll be using a dremel for trimming the ears as seamless as possible although I don’t mind a slight wonky look.Chest, back and abdomen plate were also trimmed down with the scissors but left like half an inch or maybe a little less so I can smooth it down and not lose the return edge on each piece. Since these edges are all rough, using sandpaper grit 80/120/220/500 and if necessary wet sand with 1000 grit. Happy little accidents happen and I’ll be making some ABS paste soon. I don’t know how to do it, but I did saw a pinned tutorial and I’ll head there eventually when the time comes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Neb Sgird[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 I personally wouldn't trim anything on the helmet to achieve the high brow look. Instead, play with where you drill your holes for the ear screws. Through trial and error, you should be able to achieve the look you are going for without actual trimming. Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 For now, for Centurion I will keep the lowbrow and everything else that is needed to achieve this goal. I might dig a few extra hidden holes and make it look very surprised I’ve been tackling the armor little by little. This would be my third helmet build so I have a clear view of what I have to do and get some good references for the authentic look I wish. Happy little mistakes often occur, and that’s okayLike buying a a 109pc dremel piece kit so I could tackle the armor as well with patience and virtue but as soon I finished the helmet and giving it the final touch ups... my dremel just died on my hands.I’m having issues uploading pictures with tapatalk. I’ll upload some showing the the ear caps, teeth area and eye sockets.. looking for some juicy accuracy tips.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Posted April 12, 2018 I finally managed to load up some pictures. It’s not much but I’ve managed to get the helmet done. How are the teeth, eyes, earcaps and overall placement in general? If it’s wonky, that’s perfect then. I feel that I could get the eyes and teeth area a little bit more accurate, but maybe that’s just me. I don’t want to go too overboard and have to order an extra piece to be completely honest I’ve been also using lexan scissors, xacto knives and sand paper, working around the armor area pieces. I have not fully trimmed yet but once I get most of them trimmed and sanded, I’ll take some pictures. I’m still in need of a pair of boots. There are several options here and the most popular two are ridiculously overpriced since last time I got a pair for myself... so I’m thinking about heading the “most authentic way” of getting a pair of black Chelsea boots and dye them white, and always keep that dye around whenever something pops out or they’re wearing out too much. From this perspective it’s not a bad idea but once I get my hands down and dirty I’ll see really if it’s worth the shot. - I’ll be practicing on a pair of boots I got around here and see how I can get them from brown to white... the concept should be the same if I head the white dyeing route. Paint wise, for the teeth I have seen both options, humbrol or but testors. Which one is truly the way to go? I used humbrol for my past helmet builds and it was pretty good and efficient; gets the job done Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted April 12, 2018 Report Posted April 12, 2018 Looks good. I say stick with the paint you know works. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Posted April 12, 2018 I’m open to options. Humbrol admiral grey #5 or testors 1138 (I noticed the number and made the connnection, had a fangasm and I am now more enlightened)Should I proceed with the decals then? I don’t have the paint yet since I haven’t both got it and the wait time will take a bit since neither are available locally.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted April 12, 2018 Report Posted April 12, 2018 Don't forget the last tooth in the frown! Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 12, 2018 Author Report Posted April 12, 2018 Don't forget the last tooth in the frown! You mean the painted area next to the smaller 5th teeth? I will definitely paint in the name of holy accuracy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Neb Sgird[TK] Posted April 16, 2018 Report Posted April 16, 2018 On 4/11/2018 at 6:01 PM, BananoPower22 said: Paint wise, for the teeth I have seen both options, humbrol or but testors. Which one is truly the way to go? I used humbrol for my past helmet builds and it was pretty good and efficient; gets the job done Both are accurate, but (at least in my area) Testors was much easier to find, so that's what I went with. Just be sure you follow this chart to make sure it's the right color 1 Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Posted April 18, 2018 I have been taking things one step at a time and veeery slowly ever since my dremel died, so I'm trimming with patence, an Xacto qand Lexan Scissors. Now, I've got the chest, backplate and abdomen plate semi ready to go but my major concern here is the return edge. As the kit I ordered came untrimmed so I could fit it into my big chunky body, I still wanna look good. Here's a line I've traced of what I might go with - but still havent trimmed down. Ideally, is there a measurement I should follow, or how thick it should look? If it's good like this, should the same thickness be followed back to the kidney plate, both upper and lower areas and the butt plate? this is the ab an kidney held with masking, nothing has been cut, glued, etc. Pics: Butt plate which also concerns me, the lower area where our beautiful cheeks are tucked inside, does this area in particular has return edge? I notice some screen caps, they do have return edge but some don't or is it very minimal? As in not the same thickness that the Ab, kidney, upper butt, etc. (Taken from TK300 website) A general question, is the return edge all the same all around the armor? If so this could help and i'd just measure the return edge on the lower side of the chest plate and use that and cut and devour away like Tazmania 1 Quote
Neb Sgird[TK] Posted April 18, 2018 Report Posted April 18, 2018 Your sketch lines on the top of the ab look like a bit too much IMO, but everyone's body is different. I would maybe do half of that, test fit, and then decide. As for the butt, it will have a minimal return edge (my AP butt has more like a molded "bump" as a return edge, it might be 3 mm tops) The return edge will NOT be the same all the way around the armor. The ones two that will match up to each other are the butt and the kidney, and I suppose the back as well. Those should all match to give the illusion of uniform thickness across the back. The back and chest should also approximately match. Your trim lines on the butt look good to me. Quote
shashachu[TK] Posted April 19, 2018 Report Posted April 19, 2018 GREAT job with the ear trimming on the helmet. Are you planning on trimming back the teeth any more? If you trim to where your pencil lines are, I think they'd look perfect. I personally used Testors paint, but either Humbrols or Testors should work if you use the right colors. I also love hand painted helmets, and it's surprisingly fun to do. I did use stencils from Trooperbay, though. For return edge, I agree that the ab return edge looks a bit big, but it's up to personal preference. I think you'll want to think about trimming back or even getting rid of return edge for non-visible areas (e.g. top of ab, top of biceps) for comfort. Also remember that there should be NO return edge on the wrist end of the forearms for Centurion. Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted April 19, 2018 Report Posted April 19, 2018 On 4/17/2018 at 10:48 PM, BananoPower22 said: I have been taking things one step at a time and veeery slowly ever since my dremel died, so I'm trimming with patence, an Xacto qand Lexan Scissors. Now, I've got the chest, backplate and abdomen plate semi ready to go but my major concern here is the return edge. As the kit I ordered came untrimmed so I could fit it into my big chunky body, I still wanna look good. Here's a line I've traced of what I might go with - but still havent trimmed down. Ideally, is there a measurement I should follow, or how thick it should look? If it's good like this, should the same thickness be followed back to the kidney plate, both upper and lower areas and the butt plate? this is the ab an kidney held with masking, nothing has been cut, glued, etc. Pics: Butt plate which also concerns me, the lower area where our beautiful cheeks are tucked inside, does this area in particular has return edge? I notice some screen caps, they do have return edge but some don't or is it very minimal? As in not the same thickness that the Ab, kidney, upper butt, etc. (Taken from TK300 website) A general question, is the return edge all the same all around the armor? If so this could help and i'd just measure the return edge on the lower side of the chest plate and use that and cut and devour away like Tazmania IMO, and take this lightly as I am still researching, but your thinking way too hard about all the trimming. Your going for Level 3, follow the CRL and that's it. I have seen and heard about people getting denied because the followed a build they saw in the movie. The CRL is all you need. If there is a return edge required there, then follow what that says, if not, build to comfort. anyone that would call you out for not having a Return edge like in the movie is most likely going to be trooping with you, so no worries. Build looks good so far, keep up the great work and updates Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Posted April 27, 2018 (edited) Not much to say but I’ve been trimming the excess plastic away. Ive gotten a struck of luck and I’ve hired again and now work has been consuming my time, but whenever I get te chance trim seal at least two or three pieces and settle everything down for later. I have ordered the frown paint so it should eventually get here. I haven’t painted the vocoder either yet because I’m procrastinating excessively, so yeah, I will eventually get to the handpainting and placing the decals on the helmet, probably at all the same time once the frown paint gets here. In terms of fitting the armor is the scariest part, but I’ve got back up from fellow troopers and I’m whenever I get the chance I work on a RO Death Trooper for an inspiring 501st member and I’m more than willing to and get it up to standards... and I’ll probably end up getting one soon, but I’ve gotta tackle a jango fett first; and most importantly the TK itself. I still have to order the boots, canvas belt and the blaster and a set of welder lens for the helmet - which I’m also considering on painting the inside black and go with a cool padding and fans, but priorities first... The white armor 4326 out Edited April 27, 2018 by BananoPower22 1 Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted May 3, 2018 Author Report Posted May 3, 2018 (edited) Almost done with the bucket, it needs a bit of clean up, S trim, Welders lens, star foam padding (maybe, or something just comfortable), still need to track down some parts I’m missing such as the undersuit, neck seal, belt, boots and the good ol’ blaster. Ivd got a pair of latex hand guards around but I have no idea where, but they’re around here somewhere... I still need to trim everything down, and I’m unfortunately 5’9 tall and I need to trim the thighs. I haven’t worked with the armor fitting on the leg armor area 100% either yet though. It’s probably going to take a lot of snaps and webbing and I’m a quiiite not there yet. (cotton, elastic?) The cover strip system is scary but I’ll tackle it down carefully once the whole fitting is done entirely. I won’t work with the calves yet but I will once I get a pair of boots and I’m able to properly fit them correctly and not wearing them or using others as a mockup and end up looking wrong. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited May 4, 2018 by BananoPower22 Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted May 22, 2018 Author Report Posted May 22, 2018 (edited) I apologize for the lack of updates. I’ve been sick and also unemployed and investing time in the armor has become a challenge due to various personal reasons. I still need a belt, undersuit, neck seal and boots and to my understanding these items are essential for a proper fit, so I’m stuck on a loop until I can get a job and get things going again. I am hopeful something will land soon and I’ll be able to back myself up financially and afford treatment for my illness (BPD, anxiety and depression for those curious) but finding a job where I’m from and living enough to pay bills and feed myself is complicated, but hope is the last thing I will lose. Edited May 22, 2018 by BananoPower22 Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 You come first! Armor will be there later, we all hope you get better and we’ll be around to help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted May 25, 2018 Author Report Posted May 25, 2018 I’ve noticed both biceps are symmetrical and have one side higher than the other... what should I do here? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 25, 2018 Report Posted May 25, 2018 You can trim the tops as much as you need to get them symmetrical, Juan. Return edges do not need to be present, as seen in the screen used set below: 1 Quote
BananoPower22[TK] Posted May 31, 2018 Author Report Posted May 31, 2018 Not much done but I did got most of the pieces trimmed down and sanded smooth, and assembled the thermal detonator. I’m curious for anyone that knows about The AP kit, what should be replaced/added/removed? I am still not happy at all with the brow placement and the overall look it has. I’ll tackle that eventually whenever I disassemble the helmet by giving it slight arch, just so it looks like a stunt and not a hero helmet, and add some flat black to the inside. Quote
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