Willeywonka's ANH Stunt Build (AP Armor)

[willeywonka[TK]]

1 hour ago, Neb Sgird said:

How tall are you? I think you can probably make the "minimal gap" requirement. I would recommend no gap between the butt and kidney and a "minimal" one between the kidney and back. You can bring the back down a little to help this.

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Okay I’ll give that a shot. I’m 5’11” but my height is spread more through my torso than my legs. I actually have some slight back problems because of how long my torso is. Thanks!

[willeywonka[TK]]

My boots from Imperial Boots came today! Very pleased with them. They fit like a glove. They also included a rad patch. Hoping to collect some more patches once I get approval! 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Good looking boots

[Neb Sgird[TK]]

Imperial Boots are definitely some of the highest quality boots out there. Keep sourcing parts! Getting orders is almost as fun as actually building everything. ...almost...

[willeywonka[TK]]

Does anyone have any thoughts on if it is worth purchasing a snap press instead of the old hammer and anvil method? If so, does anyone have a press they recommend? There seems to be a broad price range out there. Also, if I get one I want to make sure it’s compatible with Line 24 snaps so if anyone has a recommendation it would be helpful. Thanks!

[willeywonka[TK]]

On 3/10/2018 at 8:18 PM, Neb Sgird said:

Ya, I think you'll end up wanting to cut some ABS pieces to size in order to re-fill the gap above the ridge and mix some ABS paste to act as glue and to hide the seams. Don't use epoxy glue, as it will be visible to the not-so-casual observer and will end up being harder to work with in this situation. ABS paste is the way to go because it is literally made from the same stuff as your armor, so it will blend in much better. Once you've sanded it back down (and I'm thinking wet-sanding with 1400 grit paper, then polishing), it shouldn't be all that noticeable. It's going to take some good sanding, and the back of your thighs might end up being more delicate than they otherwise would have, but your thighs are definitely salvageable. 

 

Don't lose heart, it will take some more work, but you could still make centurion!

 

See here for more info on ABS paste: 

 

Ben,

 

I am going to get the acetone for my ABS paste this week. Would you mind elaborating on the process of wet sanding? I have never wet sanded anything before and honestly have no idea what that really means... Do I just need to wet the sand paper? Thanks for your help!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

19 minutes ago, willeywonka said:

Ben,

 

I am going to get the acetone for my ABS paste this week. Would you mind elaborating on the process of wet sanding? I have never wet sanded anything before and honestly have no idea what that really means... Do I just need to wet the sand paper? Thanks for your help!

First, I can recommend that you go to Lowe's or Home Depot to get the acetone.  Yes, nail polish remover has acetone in it, but it is not nearly strong enough to melt ABS.

Wet sanding is exactly what it sounds like, sanding with wet sandpaper.  I would HIGHLY recommend using 3M's silicone sand paper https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-SandBlaster-Pro-12-Pack-7-in-W-x-4-5-in-L-150-Grit-Commercial-Ultra-Flexible-Sandpaper-Sheet-Sandpaper/1000065611

This product will last danged near forever, and is available in several grits.  I did an entire TK build as well as a resin E-11 build and only used 2 sheets.

[willeywonka[TK]]

3 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

First, I can recommend that you go to Lowe's or Home Depot to get the acetone.  Yes, nail polish remover has acetone in it, but it is not nearly strong enough to melt ABS.

Wet sanding is exactly what it sounds like, sanding with wet sandpaper.  I would HIGHLY recommend using 3M's silicone sand paper https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-SandBlaster-Pro-12-Pack-7-in-W-x-4-5-in-L-150-Grit-Commercial-Ultra-Flexible-Sandpaper-Sheet-Sandpaper/1000065611

This product will last danged near forever, and is available in several grits.  I did an entire TK build as well as a resin E-11 build and only used 2 sheets.

Awesome. This is super helpful! Thanks.

[Neb Sgird[TK]]

On 4/2/2018 at 2:22 PM, willeywonka said:

Ben,

 

I am going to get the acetone for my ABS paste this week. Would you mind elaborating on the process of wet sanding? I have never wet sanded anything before and honestly have no idea what that really means... Do I just need to wet the sand paper? Thanks for your help!

I actually go a step farther than what Joseph explains. For my personal mishap where I had to fill with ABS paste a bit of chest that I managed to melt away (don't ask), I started with 220 grit sandpaper and worked my way up in grit levels. If memory serves, i went 220, 450, 600, 800, and so on. Around 800 I began to "wet sand." You can just wet the sandpaper, but I actually like doing it over the kitchen sink, with the water actually running on the part I am sanding. In addition to the gliding action the wet sandpaper will have (as opposed to dry), the running water will help flush the particles you're taking off the plastic so they aren't acting as an abrasive. It's just a little easier to control. I finished it off with 1200 before moving to polish. 

 

I'm sure you can find more detailed explanations of the physics and pros/cons of wetsanding on youtube haha.

[willeywonka[TK]]

4 hours ago, Neb Sgird said:

I actually go a step farther than what Joseph explains. For my personal mishap where I had to fill with ABS paste a bit of chest that I managed to melt away (don't ask), I started with 220 grit sandpaper and worked my way up in grit levels. If memory serves, i went 220, 450, 600, 800, and so on. Around 800 I began to "wet sand." You can just wet the sandpaper, but I actually like doing it over the kitchen sink, with the water actually running on the part I am sanding. In addition to the gliding action the wet sandpaper will have (as opposed to dry), the running water will help flush the particles you're taking off the plastic so they aren't acting as an abrasive. It's just a little easier to control. I finished it off with 1200 before moving to polish. 

 

I'm sure you can find more detailed explanations of the physics and pros/cons of wetsanding on youtube haha.

This! 

[willeywonka[TK]]

Still working on wrapping up my thighs. In the mean time, I went ahead and installed my sniper knee plate. Through my research I became aware of the fact that this can be one of the most frustrating parts of the build and I found that to be entirely accurate lol. The sniper plate just did not seem to want to fit perfectly no matter how I tried it. After a lot of finagling I got it into the position I thought worked best overall, but it's not perfect.

 

 

 

 

Also here is a test fit with my thigh.

 

 

This week has been busier than I expected so I still haven't gotten to go on a supply run and get my acetone for the ABS paste to fix the back of my thighs yet. Happy Friday to all! 

 

[viewoptic[TK]]

Looks good! What size cover strips do you have on your thighs and shins? 

[willeywonka[TK]]

6 hours ago, viewoptic said:

Looks good! What size cover strips do you have on your thighs and shins? 

Since I ended up botching my thighs a bit I had to go with about an inch width (24-25 mm) instead of the canon 20 mm width so that they would fit properly (I have tree trunk thighs). I am hoping to eventually order some more from Mark at AP to redo them entirely since they are still a bit tight on me. The shins are 20 mm in the front and an inch in the back to allow me to attach the velcro.

 

Also, I got my thigh ammo belt attached yesterday . I made sure to attach it on the ridge.

 

 

[Neb Sgird[TK]]

Looking good. Slap some white paint on those thigh rivets (same as you would the kidney/ab rivets) and your legs should be EIB ready. 

[willeywonka[TK]]

5 minutes ago, Neb Sgird said:

Looking good. Slap some white paint on those thigh rivets (same as you would the kidney/ab rivets) and your legs should be EIB ready. 

Just did that moments ago. Also got all the screw heads on the helmet painted white too, along with the mic tips. Thanks!

[willeywonka[TK]]

More progress! Ab/kidney connections have been completed. The drill bit slipped just slightly on the middle ab hole so it is just a hair higher than the outside holes, but it's not bad at all in my opinion. Just need to finish with some white paint. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Neb Sgird[TK]]

Looking good! The middle rivet hole definitely looked off the line at first glance, but once the actual rivets were installed, you can't tell at all. 

 

I guess it's too late now, but I would have recommended doubling up the strapping on the rivets. I did mine just like yours and over time (only around 6 months now) the nylon is starting to sag/stretch. I'm going to end up redoing mine...

[willeywonka[TK]]

10 minutes ago, Neb Sgird said:

Looking good! The middle rivet hole definitely looked off the line at first glance, but once the actual rivets were installed, you can't tell at all. 

 

I guess it's too late now, but I would have recommended doubling up the strapping on the rivets. I did mine just like yours and over time (only around 6 months now) the nylon is starting to sag/stretch. I'm going to end up redoing mine...

Thanks! And no worries, I appreciate the tip for future reference. My only concern would be that the additional layer of strapping would give the rivet less length to bend and create a strong hold, but I think it probably would work. Good news is if I need to do it in the future it’s a pretty easy fix. As a side note, putting holes in your armor is nightmare fuel lol.

[GilFran007]

5 minutes ago, willeywonka said:

Thanks! And no worries, I appreciate the tip for future reference. My only concern would be that the additional layer of strapping would give the rivet less length to bend and create a strong hold, but I think it probably would work. Good news is if I need to do it in the future it’s a pretty easy fix. As a side note, putting holes in your armor is nightmare fuel lol.

it definitely is.....but I found an easy button.

 

Mark the spot and burn a small pilot hole in your armour with an old soldering iron......then take the drill bit in your hand and manually drill the hole.  This process gave me full control on the actual penetration and made life a lot less stressful.  You can even tape up the area around the hole so that you don't accidentally drop the iron and burn your armour.

 

Once you get good at it, you can make the melted hole larger which will make the manual drilling less laborious.   Now I don't mind parts of the build where you need to make holes

 

...except, I still used glued strapping for the male snaps on the ab piece to hang the belt.....I didn't want to fuss with trying to angle the armour correctly on the anvil to punch the snaps

[willeywonka[TK]]

23 minutes ago, GilFran007 said:

it definitely is.....but I found an easy button.

 

Mark the spot and burn a small pilot hole in your armour with an old soldering iron......then take the drill bit in your hand and manually drill the hole.  This process gave me full control on the actual penetration and made life a lot less stressful.  You can even tape up the area around the hole so that you don't accidentally drop the iron and burn your armour.

 

Once you get good at it, you can make the melted hole larger which will make the manual drilling less laborious.   Now I don't mind parts of the build where you need to make holes

 

...except, I still used glued strapping for the male snaps on the ab piece to hang the belt.....I didn't want to fuss with trying to angle the armour correctly on the anvil to punch the snaps

Thanks I’ll have to give that a try with the rest of my drilling. I have been using a soldering iron to make the holes in my strapping and sear the cut ends to prevent fraying.

 

As for the belt snaps, I found a $25 snap press tool at Hobby Lobby that works with Line 24 snaps. I’m thinking I can use it to place the snaps instead of the anvil because I agree with you, it would be an awkward angle! If it doesn’t work I might use your glued strapping method and/or industrial Velcro.

Edited April 11, 2018 by willeywonka
Typo

[TheSwede[TK]]

Nice progress Just noticed that you smaller ab button plate is a tad to big, it should look something like this with no return edge.

 

[willeywonka[TK]]

1 hour ago, TheSwede said:

Nice progress Just noticed that you smaller ab button plate is a tad to big, it should look something like this with no return edge.

 

Thanks! I noticed that as well, after I had already glued it of course haha, but then I realized there doesn’t seem to be much room available to cut it down to size without removing some of the buttons themselves or at least having the edge be flush against the buttons. I’m not sure if this is unique to AP armor? I’ll have to check some other AP threads to see what others have done.

[willeywonka[TK]]

Last night I had another streak of productivity.

 

Right side ab plate snap has been placed and I am working on a scrap ABS connection system to help keep the kidney/ab connection lined up properly:

 

 

I also started making my nylon webbing snap bases for the armor using my snap press from Hobby Lobby (only $25 btw and it makes it SO easy). I also found a pretty inexpensive snap kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BNR9XY1/ref=asc_df_B06XJYHJ7L5438234/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B06XJYHJ7L&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167119535166&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=872727615649838682&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010522&hvtargid=pla-304071937667&th=1. I was a bit concerned with the quality since they are so inexpensive, but they seem to snap together and hold well. They do bend somewhat easily if you don't get everything centered properly, but for the price I would say they're worth it! Of course, they are the first snaps I have ever worked with meaning I don't have much of a baseline for an opinion, so take it or leave it. 

 

 

Next I used the reamer that came with my Lexan scissors to make the holes for my cod/butt connection. As a sidenote, I have found that a reamer is MUCH less anxiety-inducing than using a drill. I went ahead and placed the snaps in the butt piece, and before you freak out, the split rivet is only showing in the cod picture because I did a placement test for it. I haven't actually installed it yet. 

 

 

 

Last, I placed some of my nylon webbing snap bases on the upper section of the butt piece. I first placed a small strip of duct tape over the exposed metal of the snaps on the glue side because I have seen enough horror stories of the demonic reaction between E6000 and metal warping armor. I also only placed glue on either side of the snap and not directly on the duct tape.

 

 

[GilFran007]

I've had no ill effects with e6000 on nickel plated line 24 tandy snaps.  I read about the various accounts on the deformations and supposed exothermic chemical reaction and have not witnessed it with my build.

 

I've pulled off numerous straps and see that the glue has bonded between the armour and the back of the snap, and the only deformation I saw was the inner 'snap circle' on the armour.....from when you push in and pull off the snap itself.

 

I would just be weary with the strap plate as now the duct tape is providing adhesion surface between the strap and the armor....and the duct tape adhesion is not as strong as the e6000.  You should have enough e6000 around her to hold her in.....but my OCD would keep me awake at night knowing what lies beneath.

Edited April 13, 2018 by GilFran007

[wook1138[TK]]

So... E6000.  I was one of the people who had an issue with E6000.  I bought two tubes - both labeled the same and from the same store (authentic E6000 from a large franchise hardware store).  So far I've had the issue from only one of the tubes.  So, perhaps I just got unlucky with one.  That said, I've changed my approach to gluing with E6000.  I no longer use strong clamps (unless it is required to maintain the shape of the ABS in special cases).  And I never apply a clamp to the snap itself (I had before).  Really, if you press the nylon base tight against your armor with lots of E6000 and hold for a bit, you should be able to just let go and let the E6000 dry.  In other words - I'd be nervous using the duct tape (as Gil pointed out) and I would be more inclined to use ample E6000 but little force during the drying (small magnets or even tape at most).  And for the record - I would be a little nervous with cheap Amazon snaps (more for their durability) - but I'm a nervous guy in general.  

 

Keep it up!  The build looks great!