My first build

[Sprocket]

Out of the box. So this is how a kid feels at Christmas. Got some work to do…after I’m done shaking with excitement. I feel ridiculous. 

 

Edited December 8, 2018 by Easy

[Sprocket]

First fitting…weight watchers time. Halloween through New Years has taken a toll on me. 

 

Edited April 4, 2018 by Sprocket

[Sprocket]

Scary part begins with the first cut. 

Seems to be going ok. 

Edited April 4, 2018 by Sprocket

[Frank75139[501st]]

Looking good


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[lucnak[TK]]

Hi there, I assume you’re doing the ANH stunt? Where is your armour from?

[Sprocket]

It’s from JediRobe in England. I believe it’s stunt as well. There is three screws total in the ear pieces. 

Edited February 25, 2018 by TK Sprocket

[Sprocket]

Is there a configuration of the cod piece? I’ve seen it both separate and uncut from the AB plate. I’m assuming it helps when sitting but is cutting it acceptable?

[Neb Sgird[TK]]

The originals were not cut (they were in Rogue One and you can tell the difference. They flap around quite a lot), but I believe cutting it is approval for basic, as long as it is hidden by the belt. I'm not sure about higher approval levels.

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi Dave,

 

Good start. Looks like you’ve fitted it well to yourself. :-)

 

I saw in your other thread that you mentioned L2/L3. Are you in the UK and going for UKG clearance?

 

For those higher levels, it looks like you might have to make some changes, although more detailed photos would help us point you in the right direction. 

 

Here’s a couple of initial things to consider. 

 

Ab buttons appear to be separate - for L3, “

Abdomen armor buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.

No separate buttons are allowed.”

You could source replacement ab plates quite easily. 

 

The limb parts appear to be constructed using the overlap method. For L3, the biceps, forearms, thighs and shins “must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed”.

Others have converted these parts in the past, so it’s doable if you wanted to. 

 

The fastening of certain parts is also covered by L3, such as correct use and positioning of rivets, screws, etc. 

 

If if you could post more detailed pics of the armour and lid, we can certainly help guide you to your desired clearance level. 

 

I hope this this doesn’t sound like criticism. I only mention it as you had previously discussed the EIB and Centurion programs. 

 

Best wishes,

Dan 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Hi Dave,

 

You haven't filled in your profile so I don't know where you're based, if you update this then you might be able to get some more localised help.

 

As for stuff you have already I'll add some quick comments below, some are already covered.

• Do not  cut off the cod, it should remain 1 piece.  Whilst some people do this, its generally more experienced people with a good reason to do so.
• You have a fairly large side gap, any way you can get the Ab plate and kidney closer together at all?
• Belt you do with being a little higher up.  If you look at this image  you'll see the top of the belt it roughly level with bottom of the button plate.
• Whilst overlap is acceptable in the CRL for ANH Stunt most/all will build with butt connection an cover strips.  You may well need to change this.]
• The hand plates look enormous, probably a good opportunity to swap to more accurate versions.
• Drop boxes are a touch low, the top shoul butt up to the belt.

As far as I can see the blaster looks like it might be a doopy doo? Some better images will be useful here as well as closer ones of the armour.

 

None of this is meant as a criticism, we just want you to have the best suit you can.

[Sprocket]

Thanks guys. I’m not taking this as criticism. I bought this kit as it was in my price range and knowing that it is a kit and will need mods. 

 

I’ve shimmed the kidney plate to join with the ab plate and it’s a less than 1/2” gap now. I need to get more snaps to join the right side and then take pics with me in it. 

 

I’ve also raised the ammo belt to the correct level. This really helped with the overal fit around back as well. The hanging boxes are not set as of yet. 

 

The webbing that came with the kit kit is all Velcro and I’m not keeping it. I’m building my own adjustable webbing that will snap in once done. 

 

Also, you may have noticed, all the snaps are on the pieces with Velcro pads. This will also be changed once I have the kit fitted and hung properly. 

 

I tried putting more more pics in here but it seems I’m out of space for them. Must have done something wrong when posting. 

Edited February 26, 2018 by Sprocket

[lucnak[TK]]

You should upload your photos to an image hosting site such as imgur, Flickr, or Google Photos. You run out of room for photos here with your account super fast.

[Sprocket]

Thanks, I’ll do that. 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Good work, Dave. Sounds like you’re on it. :-)

Yep, photo sharing sites as suggested or Tapatalk app. Tapatalk upload straight from your smart phone. :-)

Don’t forget, wherever you are in the world, get in touch with your local Garrison as they will be the ones to pass your basic clearance.

Dan :-)


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[Sprocket]

Thanks, I’ll do that. I’m in southern Ontario, Canada and I’ve been in touch with a couple people here. Turns out there’s a group right in my hometown of Oshawa that’s run by a guy who went to school with my younger brother. We became FB friends and I’m waiting to find out from him who can approve my entry to the garrison. I can’t seem to complete my profile without a garrison to enter. 

Small steps I guess. 

[lucnak[TK]]

You're in Canadian Garrison territory, so head over to 501st.ca and register there!

[Sprocket]

Been trimming and gluing the pieces together, getting rid of all that Velcro.

 

Couple of things I have to say I’ve noticed: 1. As much as I hate the Velcro it seems to be great for setting up the pieces to fit me perfectly before the gluing starts. 

2. It’s extremely gratifying to see and actually feel the difference in the sections once the glue is set. It’s so solid. I’d almost think it would stop a blaster hit. 

 

Also, as I’ve not been able to find a decent set of webbing I’ve designed one and have some of the parts for it. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x3pTwud0xR7jNDht2

 

[Sprocket]

X

Edited March 4, 2018 by Sprocket

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi Dave.

Just out of interest, what width are you going for on those coverstrips?
If you’re aiming for screen accurate, the sizes are usually 15mm for the arms, 20mm for the legs (except for the calves 25mm).
Looking at your pics, I’d guess yours might be around 40mm?

Also, the thigh cover strips don’t run the full length of the thigh - they stop at the lower ridge.



Hope that helps. :-)


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[Neb Sgird[TK]]

I noticed in your gallery that you plan to close your drop boxes with flat covers. Note this section from the CRL:

"Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back. Flat covers are not allowed."

This is a centurion requirement, so for basic you're fine, but this is one of the simple things that is pretty easy to get right the first time, and will save you the stress of redoing it if you want to go centurion later.

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[Sprocket]

I’ll have to get the pieces for the backs of the ammo boxes I guess. I wasn’t aware there was a piece for that, just read that they should be closed. 

 

As as for the cover strips, they are wide. I’ve fixed the thigh to 20mm and the calf to 25mm. Now I just hope I can get my leg into them. While I’m not a fat guy I am a big guy. 

[Sprocket]

As I feared the thigh wouldn’t go up high enough. It was just tight enough to ride too low to bend at the knee enough to walk comfortably, stairs were almost impossible. 

 

So I separated the back joint and made it wider with a new cover strip. It’s much better but I think I’ll need to trim the parts above and below the knee in the back to get good mobility. I’ve seen this done so it should be pretty straightforward. My webbing design will keep the thigh pieces from dropping or spinning so that will be a big help. 

[Sprocket]

Uber E-11 blaster and electronics unboxing. 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/lJNxz683dC9LcWQA2

 

Ray asked me to share this fix/upgrade. 

 

The one problem I couldn’t fix was the folding stock plunger and catch. It went together fine but after sitting for a bit the catch piece broke off. I couldn’t get it back together and ended up breaking the plunger a couple of times trying. So here’s my solution. Pictures in the link. 

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/8LqlX2iRkHfuNmFi2

 

I cut a 5/16” bolt head and threads off so only the shoulder was left. Using a drill press I drilled a hole through it and tapped threads into it to match the machine screw thread I had on hand. Then I cut the notch into the end farthest from the hole and 90° to the hole, the same as the original part. I filed all the cut surfaces to deburr and smooth it out. 

 

The screw head is just wide enough to go into the barrel hole and slide into the locked position. If I ever need to pull it apart to adjust the spring or do any maintenance it’s very easy. 

 

NOTE: A little rtv on the threads will keep it secured but not permanently fixed in. 

Edited March 21, 2018 by Sprocket

[Sprocket]

I got some 1”x1/8” aluminum strip and cut 10” lengths. I bent these into the detonator clips. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YWHya1g4HhXszjxr1

 

[Sprocket]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/arZR1qu47wLJxyaM2

Hopefully close to ready. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jHum0aHYpqysnf0A2