Chopper857[TK] Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) Ok whilst i am doing just a bit more (make sure) research on the knee caps have carried on working with the abdomen and kidney plates. as i said earlier we have been trimming down in stages and now know have about a 6- 8 mm return edge on the ab plate and 5mm on the kidney is good to go . the pic shows the layout also to achieve clean lines down the body side the ab plate was trimmed 20 mm from and in line with the raised indent then kitted up again for laying out the kidney plate, we have gone 10 mm inside of marked line from the edge of the ab plate to achieve a solid and clean overlap that gives room for movement as well. Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 added pic Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) To hold the ab and kidney plates together have gone down the elastic and snaps route ( there are multiple tutorials for the creation of these RWA do a good one) will be using 50mm (2") elastics and 15 mm prym snaps . elastics were cut to 6 inches and a inch fold back superglued in place giving 3 inches between snaps positioning of snaps was checked a couple of times and then E6000 in placed ab and kidney plates cleaned up and edges smoothed with snaps in position with elastics in position Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted March 26, 2018 Author Report Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) Test fit with kidney and abb plates And checked butt plate for positioning, will E6000 elastics to butt plate but thinking about snaps to the kidney just to aid disassembly of amour and transport ?? Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Right have now finished off butt plate made four elastic straps with snaps fitted one end. then fitted the other half of the snaps to the base of the kidney plate then re-done test fit for positioning and glued in place Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 re linking pic's Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) Ok so now onto the chest and plate, both parts were roughed out to the mould lines then sat down and thought about strapping system and have gone for the same link system as a normal TK 2 inch wide white-ribbed elastic with a central snap in the center for the shoulder bell showing 2 inchs between the chest and back plate initial pics storyboard the straps. last pic includes strap for shoulder bell Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 re linking pic's Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 (edited) laid out and secured snap plates to the chest and back plate to achieve a 2 inch gap between the plates with the shoulder snap dead center now sits nice across the shoulders Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 re linking pics Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted April 3, 2018 Report Posted April 3, 2018 Busy day! Coming along nicelySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) two stage layout for the chest and back piece initial fit was to get master line on the chest plate down center of body (trimmed using score and snap) then refitted to layout back plate and add alignment lines for positioning of snaps. this was done for both sides. strap for sides were again made out of 2 inch wide elastic did 4 inch's long then folded back over 1 inch either end giving quite a solid strap to keep everything in line, with just a bit of movement if required side snaps and straps ready for fitment Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 re linking pic's Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) snaps glued in place on chest plate chest and back plate clamped into place using alignment markings from earlier fitting then back plate snaps positioned using straps and clamped and glued in place Edited August 26, 2018 by Chopper857 re linking pic's Quote
QueenBreedLV426 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Posted April 9, 2018 snaps glued in place on chest plate chest and back plate clamped into place using alignment markings from earlier fitting then back plate snaps positioned using straps and clamped and glued in place Looking good so far!!!Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) Everything now glued in place OK, second test fit seems ok will blend out chest to back plate in line with layout on both sides if needs must can add some Velcro to aid positioning Edited April 16, 2018 by Chopper857 picture link Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) Ok so now onto shoulder bells (doing these prior to chest and back cover straps). laid out and trimmed to mould lines Edited April 16, 2018 by Chopper857 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) taped the elastic snap made earlier in position (did the center of the snap 25 mm from edge of shoulder bell) giving good alignment shoulder to chest and back plate and now no strapping on show. positioning looks good so have now glued straps in place Edited April 16, 2018 by Chopper857 picture link Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Posted April 22, 2018 To finish off the shoulder bells going to add a snap for attaching the bicep and also the 1 inch elastic across the base of the shoulder bell. this is a option with regards to the crl but feel the shoulder bell could be a bit flappy with out it. lay out for bicep snap Now snap glued in place adding the strap across the shoulder bell final piece to glue now have a set of finished shoulder bells Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) going to show the build on the forearms prior to the biceps just because i missed a couple of photos whilst assembling the biceps and i want to document the technique with out confusing myself OK so initial layout and rough cuts will leave around 5 to 6 mm returns top and bottom of the forearms taking on board the CRL references Exterior (long) edge must be overlapped to represent the vambraces. The cut edge should face the back. have paired up left and right and front facing i have laid out for 25mm wide calling this master and trimmed the other piece to slot in underneath holding it all together with tap what i did next was to layout size and position for the inner butt joint, once done in position then worked out best trim line were the cut line made contact with both halves using a steel rule added magnets to the underside to pull the rule in line with shape of forearm Edited April 22, 2018 by Chopper857 picture update Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Posted April 22, 2018 ok with that all in position i am using a dremel with a .5 slitting wheel to run along the edge of the rule and achieve a clean butt joint Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Posted April 22, 2018 then cleaned up both halves and cut internal cover strip to glue both halves together I have gone for gluing the butt joint first as i will be easier to glue on position and will be under less pressure whilst the glue is setting and also any tweaks can be easier dealt with with the over overlapping joint on the outside edge positioning and joint check glue applied and plenty of tap and magnets finished butt joint 1 prior to clean up Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Posted April 22, 2018 to finish Assembly of first forearm roughed up the surfaces of the overlap and a applied a good lot of glue again with the magnets and tape once set will re do the return edges so all smoothed out Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Posted April 26, 2018 was using postimage but the image link keeps moving/changing and the pictures are dropping out of thread. Now moving everything to imgur and updating thread Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Posted April 30, 2018 SO here some pic's of the finished forearms just some glue removal and clean up required Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Posted April 30, 2018 Biceps !! same as forearms did a quick check for size and was satisfied i could use mold lines as start point for trimming and also added a 4 mm return edge clean up as with the forearms i resized and taped in place and then laid out for a trim line covering both half's and used the slitting wheel again to achieve the butt joint then glued that side in pace using a internal cover strip 15 mm wide set in position Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Posted April 30, 2018 (edited) then went and resized for the second butt joint and again held in place and achieved butt join with slitting wheel again glued in position using a 15mm internal strip to help with positioning on the arms much like a normal TK i am adding elastic strips to allow connection to the shoulder bell but using a snap for final fixing (again just preference for ease of transport) slightly thinner elastic used so it sits nice within shoulder bell just need a final clean up Edited April 30, 2018 by Chopper857 Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted May 10, 2018 Author Report Posted May 10, 2018 OK break from the main Armour. going to assemble the helmet. First thing i did was to rough all main parts to the mold lines including rough clearance on the eyes and teeth. then spent time finely cleaning all the edges teeth and eye sockets. then i added the frown seal and positioned both parts together using the center dimple on the side of the helmet as a guide, drilled a 4 mm diameter hole and fixed parts into position using nut and bolts i then proceeded to do the long task of filing the ears to suit ( the below pic shows the initial fixing bolt also) once the ears where cleaned up was happy with fit i pre drilled the fixing holes ( fortunately had some screen accurate screws left from previous build just for good measure.) i carefully held each ear in position and drilled through rest of helmet. then checked positioning of base screw hole and added that one as well Quote
Chopper857[TK] Posted May 10, 2018 Author Report Posted May 10, 2018 I then disassembled the helmet again to sort out the lenses. a large section of a welding screen was provided and i initially cut that down by half with the intention of having a one piece lense screen. positioned visor in face plate and used masking tape to lay out for unwanted material. this was done a few times till i was happy with shape and fit again this was then clamped in place and clearance holes added with the face plate being used as a guide. then all excess material round the edge of the face plate removed prior to reassembly i am painting all the required areas, have used frog tape to lay out for all the panels on the back plate (really good tape no seep through) and did the teeth frown and vocoder by eye fans have arrived and have dug out all left over padding i have lying around, also some lovely tube stripe templates turned up as i intended to hand paint them as well . from this point i reassembled the helmet. 1 Quote
QueenBreedLV426 Posted May 10, 2018 Report Posted May 10, 2018 Helmet looks great! I'm so afraid to trim out all the little bits around the mouth. You did a great job. What did you use? Just a dremmel?Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
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