FodiChan[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 Take it steady and you'll get there. So far, so good. (You need more Lego for your build though). I would have more Lego if my daughter didn't keep stealing them from me!!Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 This afternoon I decided I needed to spend some time breaking in my TK boots. I also sanded and shaped the shin pieces and cut more cover strips. I completely removed the return edge on the bottom of the shin pieces. I'd like the shin to scrape the boots as little as possible. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Kaar121[501st] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 I've heard of some troopers adding white felt around the inside of the ankle to help protect the boots. 1 Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 I felt so stupid walking around in these ridiculous white boots trying to break them in. I got some pants for a future Snowie build yesterday and put them on and just laughed so hard! Removing the return at the bottom of the shin is a good idea for comfort and wear, as you mentioned. I didn't put any felt or anything like that in mine, but you may think it would be helpful. Some also put velcro in the shin and on the boot to stop it from rotating unintentionally. Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 Just finished gluing right forearm and bicep. Also found some Testors paints at Hobby Lobby. Glad I didn't have to order them. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 Ok....so I've been searching for the correct way to cut the button plates and did a rough mark of where I thought the cuts should be made. Are these correct?Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 Here's a trusty Billgram that should help you for this! Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 Here's a trusty Billgram that should help you for this!Ahhh thank you!!!Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 I got some acetone from home depot last night and am working on some ABS paste. I need to cover up some small idiot marks on the return edge of the kidney Trimmed the ab button plates to size. I've been gluing the thighs today. I think the shin I've finished needs a hot water bath-- I don't want a lot of resistance against the Velcro. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 It feels like things are coming along just swimmingly. My compression shirt gets here tomorrow so I can start doing some real fitting on the torso pieces. Being a stay at home mom is nice because I get a few hours to work on this in the mornings and the glue can cure during the day. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 All right...another question...How do the shoulder straps look? Do I need to remove more material on the sides? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
Copper[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Report Posted March 8, 2018 I'm at the same point with my shoulder bridges. I found that it depends on how they look when placed on the chest plate. I thought I had trimmed down the shoulder bridges enough, but realized they were too wide when I taped them on for sizing/position. I trimmed of a little more and now they're fine. The Lexan scissors worked great. Good luck. CopperSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 I'm at the same point with my shoulder bridges. I found that it depends on how they look when placed on the chest plate. I thought I had trimmed down the shoulder bridges enough, but realized they were too wide when I taped them on for sizing/position. I trimmed of a little more and now they're fine. The Lexan scissors worked great. Good luck. CopperSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks for your input!Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Report Posted March 9, 2018 Yes, you can take a bit more off the sides there, but keep a little! Just sanding should be sufficient at this point to even them out a little. Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 10, 2018 Author Report Posted March 10, 2018 Today was a bit rough. It was hot water bath day and the thighs gave me quite a bit of trouble. When I tied them shut and put them in the bath the cover strips popped off both from the tension and from the fact that I didn't let the e6000 cure long enough. However, the thighs came together a lot easier after the bath.My fingers ache after rubbing off all that e6000 and I dropped a freshly coated cover strip on my jeans >Tomorrow I'll don the whole under suit and test fit the torso with the arms and legs in place. I want to keep working but I'm at a standstill right now and my 2 year old has been into all sorts of trouble today, including standing on her potty stool so she could play in my fish tank and dumping the salt from my Stormtrooper salt shaker all over the floor. I'm out of e6000 anyway and I'm too tired to make a home depot run tonight. *sigh* Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
magni[TK] Posted March 10, 2018 Report Posted March 10, 2018 You'll get the best results with plenty of magnets to put even pressure along the whole coverstrip. And let the glue dry 24 hrs minimum. The longer you leave it the stronger it will be. Avoid putting pressure on glued parts. Take your time. It's not a race, it's a marathon. Looking good! Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 10, 2018 Author Report Posted March 10, 2018 You'll get the best results with plenty of magnets to put even pressure along the whole coverstrip. And let the glue dry 24 hrs minimum. The longer you leave it the stronger it will be. Avoid putting pressure on glued parts. Take your time. It's not a race, it's a marathon. Looking good! I've definitely been going a bit faster than I should be. One of the ways I deal with anxiety is to work on a project as long as I can stand but when I have to take a break I get really worked up because I feel like I should be busy. I think I just have cabin fever...I'm really ready for spring and to put some energy into the garden. Idaho winters suck I have some magnets I've been using but I don't have enough and I want to save $$$ for stuff like blasters so I have been using heavy household items to press my cover strips flat--it's doing the job well enough!Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Posted March 15, 2018 Does the neck seal *have* to have a bib? My undershirt has a really high neck. I've been trying for hours and I just can't get the bib to work right. I'm not a very skilled seamstress. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Report Posted March 15, 2018 (edited) CRL does not specify that a bib is required. If your undershirt neck stays high reliably, you could go without it. Edit: Seeking clarification on this. Edit 2: A bib is not required. Edited March 15, 2018 by lucnak Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Posted March 15, 2018 CRL does not specify that a bib is required. If your undershirt neck stays high reliably, you could go without it. Edit: Seeking clarification on this. Edit 2: A bib is not required. Thanks! The shirt I have would not allow a bib to be tucked underneath since the neck is pretty high. I was digging through multiple threads trying to find pictures of people who didn't have a bib on the seal but didn't find anything. Glad to know the bib isn't required but I will make a duplicate with a bib attached in case I get a different shirt with a lower neck.My 3 inch white elastic should be arriving today so I can tackle the canvas belt. I hate sewing Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
Shanester[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Report Posted March 15, 2018 You're doing a fantastic job Nicole. You will keep thinking that one day you will not be surrounded by clamps and painters tape, but then you start your next costume... Keep up the good work trooper! Quote
FodiChan[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Author Report Posted March 15, 2018 You're doing a fantastic job Nicole. You will keep thinking that one day you will not be surrounded by clamps and painters tape, but then you start your next costume... Keep up the good work trooper! Thanks for the encouragement! It is very much appreciated. I am already thinking about an Imperial Officer, maybe next year. I had a dream that I was going to my first troop but someone stole my armor and I couldn't do it and I was really bummed out. Like, some old lady just walked out with my huge Husky bin and nobody could tell me where she went with my stuff. My daughter woke me up early this morning before it ended so I don't know if I ever got it back! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
Shanester[TK] Posted March 15, 2018 Report Posted March 15, 2018 Yikes! That is a nightmare. I wish I could say that never happens, but it does. I told myself that I would do a TK and be fine, but I found reasons why I "should" do more. I now have three costumes and am currently working on TIE pilot armor. I thought I was past blue tape and clamps, but they are currently all over my work space. 1 Quote
Kaar121[501st] Posted March 15, 2018 Report Posted March 15, 2018 Yeah, the bib is for Heroes only. So no worries there. The neck seals that I have seen, including my own, have a little bit of fabric that extends out from the base. This is mainly so that skin doesn't show when tilting or turning your head. If your shirt has a high collar then you probably wont need it. Here is a link to the thread I used to make my neck seal. They are easier then they look to make. I made mine in maybe two hours. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/8402-howto-create-a-neckseal/ Things are looking great. Keep it up. 1 Quote
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