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Posted

I thought I'd try to update my thread a little bit more than I did in the last week, so here is a little continuation of the snap bases post I made at the beginning of the week. I measured and positioned all my snap bases on the chest/back/ab/kidney/butt and am now waiting for some magnets (ran out of magnets as many things were glued at the same time) to glue them all in place before I start making the straps that will hold them all in place.

 

k9fjj3U.jpg

 

For positioning, I started by looking at ukswrath indicated in his AM build post, and then adapted a little bit for myself. I mainly positioned all my snap bases at about 10mm from the edge of the part they are on (except for the chest piece, of course, which is something more like 110mm from the bottom edge).

 

I started gluing a few ones on the back already, but I didn't take any pics yet - will post more of that stuff later.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Question about the ABS shoulder straps. I did bath them in boiling water and bend them a little bit to make some fitment tests with the chest and back pieces. Here is what it looks like. I have about 5 small bumps plus the big one overlapping with the chest piece on the front. Does it seem right on the front or what should I change? Is the poisition/orientation good, should I trim more some parts, etc. ?

 

QTq4aFI.jpg     DkEdkvE.jpg

 

And here is how it looks on the back and from above (held by some tape) :

 

Z2h0MnD.jpg     ysXdz8A.jpg

 

I already know that I will remove the large bump on the back - I just didn't do it yet. I might also heat them another time to bend them a little more to make them sit/close better on the back - however, it should already be better once the big bump is removed from the back.

 

Thanks for your feedback! :)

Edited by hollowbodies
Posted

Mine are just (possibly) slightly higher in the front but not much.
f21bf569932156ce2c5d28ccb81c442e.jpg
1428e6d9e3256d3f453298038f9995ce.jpg

I hot bathed the front so that it conforms to the shape of the chest but plenty of E6000 and good clamp will also work.
8cf88ab154e04c768c441f8597f6006b.jpg


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  • Like 1
Posted

Just a suggestion, but you may want to consider reinforcing the shoulder straps before installing them.  The shoulder straps are subjected to a lot of stress and can be prone to breakage on their own.    

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=530228

 

 

Not a requirement, but may save you repairs down the road!  :)

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Cricket said:

Just a suggestion, but you may want to consider reinforcing the shoulder straps before installing them.  The shoulder straps are subjected to a lot of stress and can be prone to breakage on their own.    

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38416-crickets-rs-stunt-build-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=530228

 

 

Not a requirement, but may save you repairs down the road!  :)

Oh that looks really nice! You seem to always come up with such great tricks and inventions! :D Is a lot of people doing that? (first time I've heard of it)

 

I might like to try it - just gotta try to get the required materials! Thanks for sharing!

Edited by hollowbodies
  • Like 1
Posted

I can't take credit for the whole "reinforce the shoulder staps" idea.  I saw it somewhere around here, but I can't remember where!

I don't ever mind manhandling my shoulder straps now.  It's been about a year and a dozen troops later, and I've never had any problems with them.  They are solid!

Posted

Sorry to jump from one thing to another like this - many things happening at the same time I guess - but here is a quick question about my right thigh. I had a hard time gluing the front cover strip to it and I was thinking about maybe taking it off to start it all over again, but I thought I'd ask here before doing anything - just in case it's not that bad and would not necessarily need to be re-done. So here is what makes me hesitate : at the top of the thigh (it's only on the higher section, the lower part is lined up really well), the cover strip seems a little bit off of one side of the return edge. Here are some pictures and close-ups of the "problem" to illustrate what I mean :

 

oyOPD2t.jpg     IfnEOsO.jpg

 

wKeRXeq.jpg     0vVTYrh.jpg

 

Well, it's not that much apparent from the front, and I know that the screen-used armors sometimes had thighs a bit not all lined up perfectly, but I wanted to hear from you about what you think! Should I pull it off and restart it, or should I not bother that much? Thanks! :P

Posted

Sorry phone went wacky.

Seems like it’s bothering you so I’d say fix it now while you can. It’s not gonna be a major fix and if you used e600 is should come off easily.


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Posted

you can trim off the last rear big tab on the shoulder straps, the movie original didn't have it i just did my straps much longer for bigger trooper.

 

Mark

Posted

The ridge is really up to you...it would not hinder approval, but I would say if it's bothering you, fix it now before you go any further! Not that much work to undo and reglue.

Posted
5 hours ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Question about the shoulder reinforcement, instead of using those steel strips, can you use other material, like cover strips, or are they too thick?

 

Hm, that's a good question!  I honestly don't know about using ABS cover strips in there.  I used metal strips simply because I had them laying around.  They allow for making a nice bend in the shoulder strap that stays put.

Structurally, I am pretty sure that the metal strips would make the shoulder straps stronger than ABS strips.  That said, I'm sure any amount of reinforcement to the shoulder straps (using whatever you've got) would be beneficial.  That is, as long as it's thin enough to maintain the profile of the shoulder strap.

Posted
1 hour ago, Bud Spaklur said:


Where’d you get those thin strips out of curiosity? They look thinner than a coverstrip would be, and yes, since they’re steel, I’d agree they’d be more secure. Also, did you reinforce any other parts of your armor with a similar method?


I bought them on eBay because none of my local hardware stores carry them.  Look for "K&S Strip 0.028" X 3/4"W X 12" L Stainless Steel".    You may only need to buy one if your shoulder straps are shorter (like mine) because I divide the length into two 6" pieces.  

I also reinforced the kidney/ab connections where the rivets go with an extra strip of ABS (about 30mm wide) glued to the inside.  This area gets a lot of stress, and reinforcing it makes the connections less likely to crack.  And I also add extra ABS reinforcement all along the inner returns where I installed brackets.

Sorry for hijacking your thread, David!  :)  

Posted




Sorry for hijacking your thread, David!    


No problem at all, haha! That's all useful and great information, so there is no worry at all - it's even a good thing! Feel free to comment as you like! :)

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Posted

Quick update about my build. Last night I managed to remove the front cover strip that was not lined up perfectly at the top of my right thigh and I glued it back in place. This time, I think it's gonna be better than all the last times I did it. Man, I think that, up to now, the thighs are the parts that have been the most difficult! :P

 

AdO8fWB.jpg

 

8x1YZnG.jpg

 

Other than that, I've also continued gluing my snap bases on the core parts of the armor. After reading about the E-6000/snaps/ABS reactions that happened to some people, I decided to just hold them a few minutes and then tape them to keep them in place and that's it - not applying too much pressure. So far so good; all the bases I've done like this seem to hold really well - and I yet haven't noticed any major bumps or anything on my armor.

 

bBVWN95.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, hollowbodies said:

Quick update about my build. Last night I managed to remove the front cover strip that was not lined up perfectly at the top of my right thigh and I glued it back in place. This time, I think it's gonna be better than all the last times I did it. Man, I think that, up to now, the thighs are the parts that have been the most difficult! :P

 

AdO8fWB.jpg

 

8x1YZnG.jpg

 

Other than that, I've also continued gluing my snap bases on the core parts of the armor. After reading about the E-6000/snaps/ABS reactions that happened to some people, I decided to just hold them a few minutes and then tape them to keep them in place and that's it - not applying too much pressure. So far so good; all the bases I've done like this seem to hold really well - and I yet haven't noticed any major bumps or anything on my armor.

 

bBVWN95.jpg

Don't let the thighs discourage you.  The right thigh was probably the most difficult part for me - I think I had to redo it about 3 times (at least).  Yeah, I complained the most about the sniper knee, but I spent a lot more time on the thighs to get them right.  I love the shot of all the magnets, by the way :)

 

I think you made the smart choice on those snap bases.  The method you described is what I'm going to do next time. 

 

Looks good, keep it up!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The easiest for me and I build quite a bit of these, I first glue all the cover strips on all the outer leg and arm parts let dry then glue in the inner parts using strong earth magnets to hold in place and also use tape in areas to avoid part from sliding around while glue sets,  the right thigh is a bit more of a challenge because the raised lip is quite crooked, that is why I glue cover strip on the outer right thigh first,  just align cover strip at top and bottom don't pay attention to the crooked raised lip which will be hidden by the cover strip.  I have seen many people start by gluing both halves togheter by using a inner strip first then glue on the outside cover strip, I actually do the opposite which i find I have more control for adjustments.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited by ABS80
  • Like 1
Posted
The easiest for me and I build quite a bit of these, I first glue all the cover strips on all the outer leg and arm parts let dry then glue in the inner parts using strong earth magnets to hold in place and also use tape in areas to avoid part from sliding around while glue sets,  the right thigh is a bit more of a challenge because the raised lip is quite crooked, that is why I glue cover strip on the outer right thigh first,  just align cover strip at top and bottom don't pay attention to the crooked raised lip which will be hidden by the cover strip.  I have seen many people start by gluing both halves togheter by using a inner strip first then glue on the outside cover strip, I actually do the opposite which i find I have more control for adjustments.
 
Mark (AP)
Well, that's basically what I did here! So it's nice to hear that from you, Mark! :)

I guess everyone finds a way that fits them better and go with that - that's the important thing! ^^

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Posted



Yeah, I complained the most about the sniper knee


Ah, the sniper knee! When I'm almost done with those thighs, I should start the shins - probably this week. And then I'll try to get over the sniper knee!

Can't wait to see how the shins go... I don't exacty know how I feel towards them actually. They seem to have a lot of stuff to do on, and the thighs have been though, so I guess it won't be too easy! 8-)

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Posted
3 minutes ago, hollowbodies said:


Ah, the sniper knee! When I'm almost done with those thighs, I should start the shins - probably this week. And then I'll try to get over the sniper knee! emoji14.png

Can't wait to see how the shins go... I don't exacty know how I feel towards them actually. They seem to have a lot of stuff to do on, and the thighs have been though, so I guess it won't be too easy! 8-)

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The shins were not bad.  Pretty straight forward actually.  Just remember to assemble the back cover strips (25mm, the fronts are still 20mm) so that the opening is facing towards the inside of your leg.  I used Velcro at the back and that seems to hold them together pretty good.

 

As for the sniper knee - it is more a case of letting the OCD go.  Raising the outside of the left shin will help with fitting the sniper knee plate in the right spot.  I would recommend test fitting the sniper knee as you go along - hot bath to get it as close as possible - then glue the middle part first (position it the best you can - the left and right sides will be a little off unless you did an amazing job with the hot baths -  and it may be a little off centre).  Wait two days for the E6000 to really harden up.  Then glue the sides down with the use of many clamps - and probably keeping a clamp on the front for good measure. 

 

If it isn't to your liking, you can always take it off and try again. It fits much better the second time around - especially if you hit it with a heat gun or hot bath it before you take it off.

 

Here are links to what I did:

 

putting front cover strips on shins - you can see the offset of my left shin (scroll post ammo pack stuff)

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=592264

 

Trimming my shins

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=592958

 

Shin closures

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=594522

 

First go at sniper knee

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=592961

 

My second go at the sniper knee plate

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43437-wooks-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?do=findComment&comment=594874

 

I don't know if this helps, but... there you go.  :) 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Quick question about the paint colors on the helmet. As already debated a little bit earlier in this thread (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43944-hollowbodies-first-build-anh-stunt-tk-ap/?page=4), I already know that I must use a Satin Black for the vocoder. That's fine. But about the other black parts (the black borders for the traps as well as the black lines inside the traps) : are they supposed to be Satin Black too, or are the supposed to be Gloss Black? 

 

I've read some places saying they should be gloss and other places saying all black should be satin. I currently have both the #21 Gloss Black and the #85 Satin Black from Humbrol, so it's not a problem. I just want to know exactly what to put where! 8-)

 

Thanks! 

 

Edited by hollowbodies
Posted

Good question.  I went with satin and I like the look of it... and no one has complained about it yet.  :)  I have tried (quickly) to look at reference pics to figure this out - in some pictures the reflection seems to go over the black just like the glossy grey and in some pics the black stands out suggesting it is not as reflective as the glossy grey and must be something more matte (I'm at work and don't have any pics handy, sorry).  Heck, in some pics the vocoder looks glossy.  So, in summary - flip a coin?

 

Here is the Dave M helmet - the black in the tear looks to have satin black due to the break in the reflection - but I have no idea if this is the original paint or even a fluke.

DaveMANH08.jpg

 

 

Posted

Another helmet paint question : I've started the paint job, and I did one coat on the vocoder today. I used Humbrol #85 Satin Black, as you can see on the pictures. However, I have a feeling it is still glossy. Is it in my head; does that look right? Because, I really used the suggested satin paint, but I'm still unsure of the result. Maybe it's in my head (I hope so), or maybe it's gonna be better with another coat ? Anyways, I don't know what to think right now! :o

 

I'd like to hear from you all who have experience and/or have used that same Humbrol #85 Satin Black paint... Did the same thing happen to you? Is this normal and okay?

 

Here are the pictures :

 

o6Vx5Zx.jpg

 

asuBeRz.jpg

 

Thanks a lot for your feedback!

 

Sent from my LG-M470 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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