TheSwede[TK] Posted March 25, 2018 Report Posted March 25, 2018 Here you can see it roughly on the RS suit...I used measurements from Troopermaster, top and bottom 25mm and middle 140mm from the bottom seem to be pretty consistent with the original and as to how far in from the edge just make sure the holes are hidden by the coverstrip and not to close to the edge they pull threw, I made mine 5mm from edge to centre of hole and so far so good, the RS seem a bit further in 1 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 25, 2018 Author Report Posted March 25, 2018 Here you can see it roughly on the RS suit...I used measurements from Troopermaster, top and bottom 25mm and middle 140mm from the bottom seem to be pretty consistent with the original and as to how far in from the edge just make sure the holes are hidden by the coverstrip and not to close to the edge they pull threw, I made mine 5mm from edge to centre of hole and so far so good, the RS seem a bit further in:salute: Thanks, I knew they were shallow but couldn't think of any place I've seen it stated.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 So a quick update on my progress. I'm using the supplied strapping, but modifying it by adding snaps and using E-6000. Started getting my sew in snaps on and getting my shoulder elastic put on, but I'm not sure if I need to trim anymore any suggestions or advice is very welcome. I'm pretty sure I need to reshape the back plate shoulder strap and it seems my neck is really high and a bit narrow.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Report Posted March 30, 2018 3 hours ago, Rat said: suggestions or advice is very welcome. As you said, the backplate tabs could benefit some reshape (if the back plate sits as high as it can) and to help with that I suggest you remove more of the returns as it`s prone to cracking even when heated. The chest plate looks like it`s in the right position (nice and high) so my advise here would be triming more of the return edge to make it less "choking" 1 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 As you said, the backplate tabs could benefit some reshape (if the back plate sits as high as it can) and to help with that I suggest you remove more of the returns as it`s prone to cracking even when heated. The chest plate looks like it`s in the right position (nice and high) so my advise here would be triming more of the return edge to make it less "choking" Yeah I'm a little more comfort with it in this position, but it had a bite to it.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 How tall are you Rat? Right between 5'9" and 5'10" and around 175 pounds so I'm fairly close to screen accurate.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Report Posted March 30, 2018 Follow up question: have you strapped the torso together when trying the fit? At that sweet-spot hight you should get the fit right just by doing so (almost anyway, depending on your torso/lower body ratio) and then see how/if the back tabs, neckline needs work Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 Yup already strapped and bracketed.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 So more dry fitting and taped the shoulder and chest. I'm not sure why the chest feels like it rides so high and will definitely need to trim some of the neck on the right side and absolutely need to trim the left shoulder tab. Seriously digs. Also not sure how to close up the ab-kidney gap. I tried it with the belt on, but it didn't seem to help and I had it so the velcro was barely connected.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted March 30, 2018 Author Report Posted March 30, 2018 excellent work - carry on:salute: Thanks and so I did.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Posted April 1, 2018 So is that too much gap? I think it slipped a bit while gluing.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Posted April 1, 2018 So I thought I would take a crack at repainting the frown and how do you get this stuff off? Tried 70% alcohol and mineral spirits and not even a dent, but I'm guessing it's very clean.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
magni[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Report Posted April 1, 2018 Looking good so far! Great progress! For closing up the gap on the side. It looks like you have a lot of return edge on the pcs. Trimming them down a bit doesn't sound like much but you would be surprised. The gap on thigh: if you don't need to cut semi-circle notch in raised edge, I would take apart and reglue. It looks like coverstrip shifted anyway. Repainting frown: you should be nice and clean to repaint over but from the close up those teeth could use some cleaning of the flash in corners. Id remove mesh and clean them up with files if your going this far. The backplate on Anovos is cursed by that weird flare. I would trim dowm return edge on a taper to nothing at edge and draw a bath for it. We have a few members with cracks in that one spot. Flattening them down will help with comfort also. Keep up the great job. I follow but don't post often on all the treads. You're getting there! 2 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Posted April 1, 2018 Looking good so far! Great progress! For closing up the gap on the side. It looks like you have a lot of return edge on the pcs. Trimming them down a bit doesn't sound like much but you would be surprised. The gap on thigh: if you don't need to cut semi-circle notch in raised edge, I would take apart and reglue. It looks like coverstrip shifted anyway. Repainting frown: you should be nice and clean to repaint over but from the close up those teeth could use some cleaning of the flash in corners. Id remove mesh and clean them up with files if your going this far. The backplate on Anovos is cursed by that weird flare. I would trim dowm return edge on a taper to nothing at edge and draw a bath for it. We have a few members with cracks in that one spot. Flattening them down will help with comfort also. Keep up the great job. I follow but don't post often on all the treads. You're getting there! Yeah I've been finding that much of it has been just trimming to the initial anovos line and been good for me minus the forearms.So with the back how far back is a reasonable amount? How much tapped should be there?Yeah the frown needs a bit of tlc the more I look at it.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
magni[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Report Posted April 1, 2018 Yeah I've been finding that much of it has been just trimming to the initial anovos line and been good for me minus the forearms.So with the back how far back is a reasonable amount? How much tapped should be there?Yeah the frown needs a bit of tlc the more I look at it.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Where the radius of the curve is come down a little from that. From the center of radius if you get it. About 1/4" or so and start taper evenly from there to edge. Two things will happen. When you heat and bend them a thinner return edge is less prone to splitting or worse going wobble and comfort on shoulder of no return edge digging in. The taper isnt noticed with the shoulderstrap overlapping. Hope you get my point.Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 1, 2018 Author Report Posted April 1, 2018 Where the radius of the curve is come down a little from that. From the center of radius if you get it. About 1/4" or so and start taper evenly from there to edge. Two things will happen. When you heat and bend them a thinner return edge is less prone to splitting or worse going wobble and comfort on shoulder of no return edge digging in. The taper isnt noticed with the shoulderstrap overlapping. Hope you get my point.Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk Got it and thanks.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 3, 2018 Author Report Posted April 3, 2018 So I think I officially have a left leg that is 99% complete. Just need to add the suspension strap for the belt and glue down my shin elastic for the bra clips. I did clean up the glue after I took these.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk 3 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 6, 2018 Author Report Posted April 6, 2018 So I'm having a bit of a dilemma on my right leg. My thigh isn't setting flush to glue the rear cover strip. I tried to heat it and reshape it enough and that didn't help and I tried to clamp and magnet it together with a strip of steel with no luck either. After the clamping and magnets i still end up with about 2-3mm between the strip and the armor. Any other ideas?The other is my shin, it fits well enough but it is overlapping top to bottom. I could trim some, but I know that the ankle can't lose anything. Not sure if I want to attempt reshaping or not.I get some pictures when I get back inside.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 6, 2018 Author Report Posted April 6, 2018 Here are some pictures.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 6, 2018 Report Posted April 6, 2018 Thigh A. Confirm both sides will align correctly once clued B. Using a scotch brie pad or similar scuff up the full surface of the cover strip and 1/4" surface on each thigh side. C. Install cover strip on one side. Let dry for 48 hrs. Afterwards remove any excess glue from the gluing surface D. Prep. Have several 10" strips of painters tape cut and waiting. Have any clamps and magnets separated and waiting. Have a block of wood roughly the width of the cover strip at least 3/4" thick x 10"L. E. Apply glue to 2nd half of thigh. F. Bring sides together and install clamps at the ends. G. Grab a strip of painters tape and strap the two sides together so they are flush. H. Add as many magnets as you can to the cover strip. I. Add block of wood on top of magnets. J. Add remaining strips of painters tape over the top of the wood at the same time forcing wood downward until the two sides are parallel with each other. K. Double check everything. If it looks good, let dry for minimum 48 hrs. 4 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 So I worked out the thigh issue.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Rat[TK] Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Posted April 10, 2018 Main construction is complete now for sorting out the little things. Back shoulder connection reshaping, right shin refitting, getting the shin elastic and clips glued and painting and I think it'll be basic approval ready.Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk 2 Quote
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