StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 2 minutes ago, ukswrath said: Yes and this doesn't have to be perfect. Canon ears were kinda staggered. Every helmet I build I try to align it like this regardless or series. so if it covered the S-trim would that be a huge concern? Or better to just remove any questions and realign it Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 1 minute ago, lucnak said: Ah, it's under "General Stormtrooper Reference", not Costume Parts Reference. Also titled as Hero Figured I would never look at that one since I was shooting for Stunt. Even though I do not think the ears matter between the Stunt and Hero Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 5, 2018 Report Posted March 5, 2018 2 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said: so if it covered the S-trim would that be a huge concern? Or better to just remove any questions and realign it Better off allowing the trim to cover the ear. Just now, StrmTRPR85 said: Also titled as Hero Figured I would never look at that one since I was shooting for Stunt. Even though I do not think the ears matter between the Stunt and Hero There's minor differences but mainly similarities Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 2 minutes ago, ukswrath said: Better off allowing the trim to cover the ear. So have the trim cover the ear instead of the ear covering the trim? Should I look into duplicating on the other side to make it less wonky? Or let Tthe Wonky Awaken Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 5, 2018 Report Posted March 5, 2018 Just now, StrmTRPR85 said: So have the trim cover the ear instead of the ear covering the trim? Should I look into duplicating on the other side to make it less wonky? Or let Tthe Wonky Awaken Yes, and the sides don't have to be exact or perfect. 1 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 1 minute ago, ukswrath said: Yes, and the sides don't have to be exact or perfect. Thank you Tony! 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 5, 2018 Report Posted March 5, 2018 1 minute ago, StrmTRPR85 said: Thank you Tony! THT Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 5, 2018 Author Report Posted March 5, 2018 Alright I repositioned the ears more in line with the trapezoid. Cut the excess shell that would have been showing with an exacto knife, drilled out the rivets and re-riveted and ABS pasted the holes that were showing. Just a bit of sanding and will be good as new. Pics to follow 3 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 As promised pictures!!!! First I started with removing the two lower screws and pivoted the ears back to be in line with the trapezoid. Next I took a pencil marked what I needed to trim off, and took my exacto knife and slowly traced the line allowing me to score and snap the excess shell. A bit of ABS paste to fill the hole And finally after sanding with 60 grit and 150 grit. Still working my way up to 2000 grit wet sanding from here on but pretty pleased. Can I use the same paint white paint for the ear screws to touch up the holes a bit more or would it be better to make some ABS paint? I know I could have left it as it was and still got approved but I did not want to settle. Hope this shows that even if you mess something up anything is fixable! Just have to put a bit of elbow grease into and use the right sanding technique 1 Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 Nice recovery! For future repairs, I don't believe that you need to bite into the ABS as hard as with 60 grit sandpaper. You might be creating more work for yourself in the long run. For something this small, you might want to consider even using some acetone on a finger to smooth things out. It sounds scary, but it's not that bad. Dip a finger in acetone, then lightly smooth it over the repaired surface. Repeat as the acetone evaporates (and it will, very quickly!). The surface ends up super smooth and glossy. Try it on a piece of scrap ABS with a lump of dried ABS paste on it. You'll see what I mean! 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 Just out of curiosity is there a reason you cut off the front section? Edit: Maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture? Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 10 minutes ago, ukswrath said: Just out of curiosity is there a reason you cut off the front section? Edit: Maybe I'm not seeing the whole picture? Do you mean this front section? I trimmed that part down so that the seam would be covered by the ear Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 12 minutes ago, Cricket said: Nice recovery! For future repairs, I don't believe that you need to bite into the ABS as hard as with 60 grit sandpaper. You might be creating more work for yourself in the long run. For something this small, you might want to consider even using some acetone on a finger to smooth things out. It sounds scary, but it's not that bad. Dip a finger in acetone, then lightly smooth it over the repaired surface. Repeat as the acetone evaporates (and it will, very quickly!). The surface ends up super smooth and glossy. Try it on a piece of scrap ABS with a lump of dried ABS paste on it. You'll see what I mean! I will have to try that out. I only started with the 60 grit because I had originally laid on the ABS paste pretty thick and needed it to smooth it down but only in a smaller area. Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 39 minutes ago, Cricket said: It sounds scary, but it's not that bad Not as scary as making return edges right Cricket? 1 Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 12 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said: Not as scary as making return edges right Cricket? ah! hah! hahhaha... ha ... ha ... ha. Not even close! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 6, 2018 Report Posted March 6, 2018 50 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said: Do you mean this front section? I trimmed that part down so that the seam would be covered by the ear No I thought you had cut a chunk out of the face near the ear, again I think it was just a photo thing. Don't mind me, continue on lol 1 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 6, 2018 Author Report Posted March 6, 2018 2 minutes ago, ukswrath said: No I thought you had cut a chunk out of the face near the ear, again I think it was just a photo thing. Don't mind me, continue on lol Thank you Tony! It might have been how I pivoted the shell so I could sand down my glob of ABS (soon will try the suggestion of smoothing out with some acetone). I'll take a photo lesson soon and get the angles and lighting just right. Maybe even spring for some professional submission pics Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 8, 2018 Author Report Posted March 8, 2018 (edited) Angle of ears looking much better now Left: Right: Edited March 9, 2018 by StrmTRPR85 updated google photo url 1 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Author Report Posted March 9, 2018 Did some painting on the bucket. I used the guide provided on the forums to source which type of paint matched Which has the following paint information: *note image is pulled from the above thread, it is not my own making* I was able to source all the Testors paint from Hobby Lobby. I also picked up a nice set of paint brushes. I used the synthetic (white) brushes as from reading what works best with Testors paint. I mixed the paint well with the brush and used before painting. First I started with painting the black outline on the mic tips, vocorder, trapezoids, and under the eyes Than I worked on the teeth I cleaned up some spots with a bit of IPA and a cotton swab. I was not worried about making everything neat and sharp as I will come back with a toothpick and shape the areas that bug me. After allowing 24 hours to dry and added a second coat to all the areas. Next was to fill in the trapezoids and under the eyes with the gray paint. I first started with using painters tap to give me clean sharp lines As you can see I had a bit of paint bleed under the tape. I decided I will touch up these areas by hand and I than tackled the remaining grey fill by hand. I think hand painting them came out much better than using painters tape and trying to give me perfect straight lines. Are my black lines think enough? I know I have a few spots to clean up. Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Report Posted March 9, 2018 Yes, hand painting is best in my opinion. I think the thickness of the black is good, other than in the trap on the right side of the forehead where the paint bled.Goign back over the area with blakc will help get a nice clean look. 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Report Posted March 9, 2018 Hi Jeff,Making good progress. :-)If you wanted to tidy up the outside of those black lines a little, a wooden toothpick can work wonders, (used gently). Although each lid can be slightly different, you could probably go a little thinner in the black, if you wanted too. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
lucnak[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Report Posted March 9, 2018 I would personally thin the black lines as well, but I don't think this is outside of acceptable range. Thanks for the ref, Dan. I also found this one in the gallery. Looks like the lines are a bit thicker in some spots here. 3 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted March 9, 2018 Report Posted March 9, 2018 1 minute ago, lucnak said: I would personally thin the black lines as well, but I don't think this is outside of acceptable range. Thanks for the ref, Dan. I also found this one in the gallery. Looks like the lines are a bit thicker in some spots here. Hehe - the beauty of our beloved, wonky, hand painted ANH TKs - they are all unique. 3 Quote
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