WTF ANH STUNT TK Build Thread

[ukswrath[Staff]]

6 hours ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

As per my GMLs recommendation to bring my bell straps down to cover the biceps more, I have reinstalled the bicep hooks

 

These just pull the strapping down to cover over the bicep more.  I have not had a chance to test fit these not too sure if I have too much white on the hook showing or not.....easy to pull off and re-position as necessary.

 

Now to start looking over EIB requirements, and fine tune anything there before submitting

No disrespect to the GML but I'm not exactly sure why he would say bring the bells down lower. So long as they cover the outer 2/3s you should be fine. Heck in quite a few scenes biceps were below the bells. Anyway, gotta do whatcha gotta do I guess. 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

6 hours ago, ukswrath said:

No disrespect to the GML but I'm not exactly sure why he would say bring the bells down lower. So long as they cover the outer 2/3s you should be fine. Heck in quite a few scenes biceps were below the bells. Anyway, gotta do whatcha gotta do I guess. 

Yea his concern was just the strap to cover more of the bicep.  But gotta do what ya gotta do

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

After reviewing the CRL for level 2 it sounds like all I need to do is get a D-ring on the back of my hyperfirm E11.

 

Looking at sourcing a D-ring now.  I think home Depot has some from what I recall

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Oh no first repair needed!

 

 

The left side of my belt tore through the canvas belt even with a washer on the back.

 

Is E6000 the belt to the canvas belt an option?  That's my easy plan I am thinking.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Holy smokes that's a first.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yes E6000 works great and simple

[Cricket[TK]]

Wondering if you've curved the belt via hot water bath or similar process? If not,  a curve in the plastic should help reduce the strain on the canvas belt. 

Edited June 30, 2018 by Cricket

[ukswrath[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, Cricket said:

Wondering if you've curved the belt via hot water bath or similar process? If not,  a curve in the plastic should help reduce the strain on the canvas belt. 

This is actually a good point. You can assemble the belt in a way that give it a natural curve (without a hot water bath). The Anovos belt is highly flexible, probably more so that the cloth belt itself. 

[Cricket[TK]]

24 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

The Anovos belt is highly flexible, probably more so that the cloth belt itself. 

 

Ah!  Did not know that.  The belts with the kits I've built (RS, WTF) are all fairly rigid and need some hot water bath shaping to get it to bend nicely at the ends.

Now I'm very curious as to what could have caused that blowout!  Did the belt get hooked onto something as you passed it?  From the looks of the belt (scorch marks around the hole), this rivet has been previously drilled out, yes?  If so, then the hole may have been inadvertantly enlarged due to the heat, and would end up being a weak point on the belt.

Either way, Ukswrath is spot on about the e6000.  That should hold the belt quite well!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

46 minutes ago, Cricket said:

Now I'm very curious as to what could have caused that blowout!  

Great question. I just built WTF Sandtrooper for a customer I don't recall the ammo belt being excessively rigid. 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

So the story goes I put on my TK last to show my neighbors who are moving the finished kit.  My 4 yr old may or may not have pulled on my holster 

 

Than BAM it all popped out.  

 

Everyone was more concerned than I was lol.

 

Figure I'll put a slightly longer rivet 3/16, cut a plastic spacer and have the rivet go ABS belt, canvas belt than plastic spacer.  Plus I'll E6000 it on top of that.  That should hold it extra and be proactively preventing future kids pulling on holsters

 

Documentation incoming once complete

[TheSwede[TK]]

To me it looks like a soldering iron was used to make the holes and maybe they just got to big barely holding the belt and with some movement it came loose. And for what it’s worth, the ammo belts provided for my kits (Anovos/TM and RS) were all flexible enough (1.5mm) without any pre-bending.

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

So the story goes I put on my TK last to show my neighbors who are moving the finished kit.  My 4 yr old may or may not have pulled on my holster 

Aah

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

10 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

To me it looks like a soldering iron was used to make the holes and maybe they just got to big barely holding the belt and with some movement it came loose. And for what it’s worth, the ammo belts provided for my kits (Anovos/TM and RS) were all flexible enough (1.5mm) without any pre-bending.

A soldiering iron was used. It is possible the holes may have been slightly too big hence I initially used a washer to secure.  I was surprised to see the washer get pulled through though.  Didn't think I made it that big.  Oh well no harm no foul and the 4 yr old is having a talking to about why rebels are terrorist

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

A soldiering iron was used. It is possible the holes may have been slightly too big hence I initially used a washer to secure.  I was surprised to see the washer get pulled through though.  Didn't think I made it that big.  Oh well no harm no foul and the 4 yr old is having a talking to about why rebels are terrorist

Maybe the washer got bent when she tried to overtake you - it`s always the people closest to you

[menschie[TK]]

Have you thought about attaching the abs belt to the canvas with line 24 snaps, as opposed to just hard riveting it. Then, it’s removable, won’t pull through, and has an escape mechanism if a kid hangs on it.

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

58 minutes ago, menschie said:

Have you thought about attaching the abs belt to the canvas with line 24 snaps, as opposed to just hard riveting it. Then, it’s removable, won’t pull through, and has an escape mechanism if a kid hangs on it.

I thought about it recently. Not 100% sure if I want to go that route.  My concern would be if it keeps popping off than it's a game of pop on, pop off

[menschie[TK]]

That’s what I’ve done. Tandy snaps are solid. I’ve had kids tug on it and even one snap has never come off, let alone all 3. My belt is curved perfectly to me as well, so there’s no tension on the snaps. 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Got my D rings for my E11 at Ace!

 

 

 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Went ahead and riveted and E6000 the belt.  I picked up a larger rivet that was 3/16 in long.  

 

Using some scrap ABS that was thin and flexible I cut and rounded the ends.

 

 

To keep the end of the rivet from scratching the ab part I put some of the soft velcro side over it

 

 

Put some clamps where I glued and allowed to dry

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looking good.

 

A note and suggestion, most people don't realize that the cloth and ammo belt are in a tug of war with each other when wrapped around the Ab plate. If you take two exact sized pieces of cloth and ammo belt material and place them next to one another then fold them end to end with the cloth belt being the inner section, though the cloth material will touch ends the outer ammo belt will not. This shifting force is what's being exerted on the rivets connecting the cloth and ammo belts as well as the snaps connecting the belt assembly to the Ab plate. Highly flexible cloth belts, those without a plastic center for example are generally pliable and allow flexibility in those stressed areas. Belts like the Kittle, though high quality they're also more rigid. I've found when assembling kittle belts that if you build in a curvature they tend to have less issues than without the curvature. This works really well when working with thicker/stiffer ammo belts also. Just a note 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

33 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

build in a curvature

What's the best approach to building in said curvature?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

1 hour ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

What's the best approach to building in said curvature?

1) Assuming you've already have the holes centered and drilled and the 45 degree tapered end cuts are made on the ammo belt, center it on the cloth belt then using a pencil mark the cloth belt through the center hole only.

2) Secure the ammo belt to the cloth belt (center hole only) using cap rivets or whatever you plan on using.

3) Once secured install your Ab and kidney plates, assembled or temporarily assembled but taped.

4) Install the partially assembled belt to the Ab/Kidney assembly. If you need to have someone secure the cloth ends in the back do it.

Note: The belt doesn't have to be perfectly centered with the ab or excessively tight. 

5) With the waist belt installed fold each end of the ammo belt until rests against the cloth belt. Center the ammo belt to the cloth belt using the 45 degree tapered cuts. 

6) have someone mark the cloth belt through the ammo belt holes. Remove belt assembly. 

7) Lay belt out on a flat surface. The holes marked on the cloth belt should be offset from the holes in the ammo belt, usually 1/8" or more. This is the difference between the two belt positions when connected to your armor. 

 

 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Thank you for adding this info Tony! This is a very valuable step by step!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Just now, StrmTRPR85 said:

Thank you for adding this info Tony! This is a very valuable step by step!

Glad to be of assistance.