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Posted

I'd get all of it under just enough. The only issue you have to watch is with raising and lowering you arm. You dont want bell getting caught inside bicep. Let the experimental stage begin. 

Getting there!:duim:

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

I'm the thinking a nylon strap on the front and back of the bell will keep it right and tight

A 6'2" trooper I built armor for has three nylon straps from bell to bicep. The setup works perfect for him.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36485-tk-79433-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-anovos-223/

 

Posted
5 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

A 6'2" trooper I built armor for has three nylon straps from bell to bicep. The setup works perfect for him.

His arms must be shorter than mine lanky ones, I see he kept his bicep hook.

Posted
37 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

His arms must be shorter than mine lanky ones, I see he kept his bicep hook.

The hooks were in the initial (individual component) photos but were removed and additional straps were added for the application. He has very long arms.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Bicep and forearm gap fix.

 

First I started with bringing the top of the bicep to be just covered by the bell

 

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Next I cut 3 4 inch nylon pieces and added my snaps to them and glued them in place and placed a magnet to hold

 

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I than placed the bell back over the bicep to mark the location where I'll be glueing the male snaps directly to the bell

 

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I marked them down slightly lower as I want the nylon to have a slight bend to it and not stress the snaps that they will pop off if I move my arm.

 

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And held in place on the back by a magnet

 

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And allowed to dry for 24 hours

Edited by StrmTRPR85
Fixed picture link
  • Like 1
Posted

Adding the sniper knee to the left shin!  Almost done!

 

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I removed all the return edge on the bottom of the knee plate and cleaned up the top and the sides.  I then placed on the knee on and did my best to align the ridges on the knee with the shin.  I figured I'll go ahead and glue/clamp in place and see how it turns out.  E6000 can always be pulled apart and put back 

 

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Just a bit too much E6000:P

 

-y2-oVUc2b_onPzJELcQJh2f2WlvZbGd_OQFnS3q

 

 

And after letting it dry overnight

 

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The black mark on the sniper knee is from my dremmel getting away from me a bit (whoops).  I think I need to bring the tops down more but I believe the placement is just right.

  • Like 1
Posted

Good work so far!  

It looks like you could bring the sniper plate to be a bit more in line with the shin, though.  I've stolen these images from Tony's outstanding build thread so you can see what I mean.

IMG_0383.jpg

 

IMG_0385.jpg

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-build/?do=findComment&comment=412503

 

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, ukswrath said:

The hooks were in the initial (individual component) photos but were removed and additional straps were added for the application. He has very long arms.

Did he still use the black elastic for the bicep to forearm?

Posted

Thanks for the feedback Christine!

 

I went mostly off the gallery for reference

 

 

I saw lots of different assemblies where some were close and others off a little bit.  Maybe its a personal preference thing or maybe I can get more OCD about it ;)

Posted
25 minutes ago, Str8 Shooter Stormtrooper said:

Thanks for this fantastic and comprehensive build!  I recently got my BBB and have slowly been going through it piece by piece. I literally sat down and read all 16 pages of your build last night!

Happy to help out

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

Thanks for the feedback Christine!

 

I went mostly off the gallery for reference

 

 

I saw lots of different assemblies where some were close and others off a little bit.  Maybe its a personal preference thing or maybe I can get more OCD about it ;)

You are correct it doesn't have to be perfect. The key here is to shape the knee correctly then glue it to the shin in a way it doesn't dig into your knee cap later. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Is the thermal detonator panel too high?

 

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If it is I know it will be an easy fix of taking the panel off and cutting the bottom piece to bring it downward.

Posted

Don't you all worry I'm still working on my build just really slowed down.  It was my intention to be approved by 5/4 but I opted to not rush and finish the last few items with more attention to detail.

 

Still outstanding-

Attach drop boxes (working on making them functional)

Paint screws

Clean up paint lines on bucket

Fix some ABS on the shins due to slight warping with hot water bath

Attach elastic between Bicep and Forearms (still deciding if necessary as it may be very hard to put it on as the biceps will be snapped to the bells

  • Like 3
Posted
20 minutes ago, StrmTRPR85 said:

Attach elastic between Bicep and Forearms

This is something I found I had to go back and do after a very brief troop.  I'm glad I did - there is now no risk whatsoever of the biceps popping out of the bells (which seems to happen).  I can still get everything on by myself even with the biceps attached to the bells - it is not pretty, but doable. 

  • Like 1
Posted

My shoulder bell, biceps, and forearms, are all connected by snaps and elastic. I disconnect them to store them in my bin, but when I'm suiting up, I connect them all and slip them on like sleeves. Most of the time I can get the shoulder bells snapped to the shoulder straps myself; sometimes I'll need help snapping the second one on. Gloves go on last, and I tuck the cuffs into my undersuit sleeves.

  • Like 1
Posted

I ordered a kit from Walt as well. I'm waiting on my BBB day. Lots of great information in your posts. Thanks for not only doing this post but most importantly for showing the screw ups and fixes! This, to me, is invaluable information. Your build is almost done! It's downhill from here. I can't wait to see everything finished. 

Posted
10 hours ago, MFJ said:

I ordered a kit from Walt as well. I'm waiting on my BBB day. Lots of great information in your posts. Thanks for not only doing this post but most importantly for showing the screw ups and fixes! This, to me, is invaluable information. Your build is almost done! It's downhill from here. I can't wait to see everything finished. 

Glad I can help out.  I know I have had a few of my OMG moments when I thought I ruined everything but glad I documented it.  I mean we are not all master builders on our very first build.  Welcome to the Family and looking forward to watching your build!  Ask questions and know the only timeline you have is the one you impose on yourself!

  • Like 1
Posted

Currently working on cleaning up my paint.  Made good use of a toothpick, Mineral Spirits even WD40.  I have used a small amount of acetone on the end of a Qtip on stubborn areas.

 

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-mXE2IPGvzphGqHXmAv7h7agEpajpfnsZwTwSuJQFiJ2EecNghXBFWO0ymT4kTUP3WIWtWpu3LokIH70ucCsScbK_VnbhcIkLsMACaxy88Ypc44rNeGqIuyre8Wkif39pSfS8HIkbgMu78Lt4bNeLkUYkOy2T44-

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Everything is freehand painted with exception of the vent tubes.  Those I used a template from Trooperbay.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Before I forget let me post my thermal detonator build.

 

Here is the main piece before I cut far too much

 

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And the approximate measurements I went for on the length (122 mm) and width (95mm) of the panel

 

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I bought end caps and the tube from Trooperbay while I await replacement end caps from Walt.  Trooperbay tube already comes gray with the stamped information of the tube on it.  A bit of sanding with some 400 grit up to 1000 grit removed it and can not even tell I sanded.  Plus I positioned the sanded portion towards my back so it would rarely be seen anyways.  The clasps I got from UKswrath Version 2 so they have the screen accurate bend in them.  Now just to paint the screws black 

 

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Edited by StrmTRPR85
  • Like 2

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