Suspend's Doopydoo's E11 (with T-Jay's Kit + Suitcase Props) Build

[Dracotrooper]

A thing of beauty you have there! superb craftsmanship Mark - really enjoying the detailing you're putting throughout

[Suspend]

Once again, I do really appreciate the comments, everyone.  It keeps me marching along to the finish line.

 

Update - End Cap

 

I didn't do anything special for the end cap.  I used the D-Ring from T-Jay's completion kit, dremeled (yes, it's a verb now) out the ring holder, wrapped the D-Ring in a bit of electrical tape to stop it from moving too much and glued the ring holder down.

 

 

 

 

Update - Receiver Bolt Numbering

 

Since I used a combination of 3D Printed parts and T-Jays Kit to build the end cap clip, I still had my original Doopydoo's end cap clip which was expendable.  I decided to try an experiment with the number punches.  Instead of using a dremel to open up an area, filling it with green stuff and then push the number punches into the green stuff, I just put the number punch right on the resin and pounded it with a hammer.  I partially expected the resin to shatter or splinter, but it didn't.  And it took the number imprint quite nicely.  So I used the same method on the bolt and found that it worked quite well.  I used 1.5 mm number punches (Amazon) and like the other builds I've seen, I ran out of room for all the numbers, but I did as many as I could.  I must say that I found this method MUCH easier than using green stuff.  I could position the number punch, hit it with a hammer a few times, and check to see how it turned out.  If I thought it needed more, (sometimes the top or bottom of the number were a little faded due to the curvature of the bolt) I could easily re-position the punch as it would drop right into the existing punched hole.  With green stuff, it was impossible to re-punch a second time as I could never get the number perfectly aligned.  I think I'm pretty happy with the result.

 

 

 

Update - Rear Sight

 

The rear sight is pretty straight-forward too.  I looked around for a piece of metal or nail I could use to create a center pin for the rear sight.  My pop rivet gun had just arrived from Amazon for my armor build and I "eyed" the included sample rivets.  Where's my dremel?

 

Here's the original Doopydoo's Rear Sight:

 

 

And here is a cut up pop rivet:

 

 

I just drilled out the hole large enough to hold the clip/pin pieces.  I didn't drill right through the sight.  It appears if I drill right through, the hole will be visible from the top of the sight as it cuts through the "L" shaped part of the sight.

 

 

And here are the parts installed.  I know it's not exactly like the real pin, but it looks pretty realistic.

 

 

Now lastly, I have a question.  I think it was Bill Hag who mentioned that the "L" shaped piece of the sight shouldn't actually be there as it was removed to hold down the scope rail in the movie.  Anyone have any comments on this?  Did you leave yours or remove it?  How do you attach your scope rail?

 

Thanks,

Mark

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

47 minutes ago, Suspend said:

Can't believe how good the punch-numbers worked on your resin (again).  Had tried this about 4 years ago on my first build and it absolutely not worked.

However, good job done on this - and the same for the rear sight.

47 minutes ago, Suspend said:

Now lastly, I have a question.  I think it was Bill Hag who mentioned that the "L" shaped piece of the sight shouldn't actually be there as it was removed to hold down the scope rail in the movie.  Anyone have any comments on this?  Did you leave yours or remove it?  How do you attach your scope rail?

Not yet heard this before, but it sounds believable when considering, the L-shaped piece can be removed (see page 37). So far I always attached my rails like this:

[Suspend]

On 2/15/2018 at 11:00 AM, T-Jay said:

Not yet heard this before, but it sounds believable when considering, the L-shaped piece can be removed (see page 37). So far I always attached my rails like this:

 

Hey T-Jay, it looks like from this photo that one end of the scope rail tucks into a hole towards the front, and it looks like the other end screws down into the rear sight?  Is that correct?  My scope rail doesn't look like this.  It appears to get screwed horizontally into the rear sight.  Have things changed since this photo?

 

Also, I'm wondering how people create their bolt spring.  Anyone have any tips?

 

Thanks,

Mark

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi Mark,

Lovely work with the bolt lettering.

With the spring, I found a drumstick and a pair of pliers worked a treat. If memory serves me correctly, around 12/13 visible coils.



Also, I used Tino’s scope rail as it came, thus putting a screw through the back of the rear sight (as pictured). If I were doing it again, I’d probably cut the 90 degree bend off of the back end, drill a new hole and screw straight down. (Just my personal choice).



I’m sure Tino will be able to confirm. :-)


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[Suspend]

Thanks, Dan.  That description and photos helped a lot.  I couldn't find anything the right size so I bought a 5/8" wooden dowel for $3.  It's the right size for the spring to fit over the end of my marker.  (Doing something similar to T-Jay's build, using a marker for the bolt end).

 

I've got another question: the end cap clip is built using the aluminum channel from T-Jay's kit.....what do people use to attach it to the receiver tube?  E6000?  Because it doesn't have a curved bottom, it doesn't make good contact for glue.  It's also kinda too thin to even think about trying to sand a curve into the bottom.

 

Mark

 

[Dracotrooper]

I recollect seeing the end cap clip attached two ways - one, green stuff laid on the underside and sanded down following curvature of the tube, then attach using e-6000. Second way, recess channel cut into tube for clip to sit inside. Think this latter option would not call for any curvature. Hope this helps some Mark


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[Suspend]

1 hour ago, Dracotrooper said:

I recollect seeing the end cap clip attached two ways - one, green stuff laid on the underside and sanded down following curvature of the tube, then attach using e-6000. Second way, recess channel cut into tube for clip to sit inside. Think this latter option would not call for any curvature. Hope this helps some Mark

Ok, thanks again, Dracotrooper.  You're a lifesaver.  A cherry lifesaver...  

 

Mark

[Suspend]

Update - Folding Stock

 

I spent the last few days getting waist deep in resin shavings from the folding stock.  I have to say that the stock was one of the items I was most afraid of tackling.  But they say if you are going to eat an elephant.....you do it one bite at a time....

 

I started by drilling out the holes on the underside of the stock.  I used a drill for the four "full" holes and left the partial hole for later.

 

 

Then I started on the top of the stock.  I used a cutting bit in a dremel to cut and cut and cut and cut and cut and cut and cut until the center of the stock was hollowed out.  I then switched to a sanding drum and smoothed out the sides and bottom.

 

 

I went back to that "partial" hole in the bottom of the stock and completed cutting that one out with the dremel.  I also cleared out the hole in the handle of the stock and tried to "tidy" up the nose of the stock a little.  The very front of the Doopydoo's stock looks pretty bad, in my opinion.  I tried to reshape it a little better.

 

 

Next I used a drill bit to drill a recess in the front for the aluminum tube from T-Jay's kit.

 

 

And drilled and sanded down the "arms" where the carriage bolts go.

 

 

When I ordered some of the replacement 3D parts from shapeways, I also picked up the little "knob" that goes on the end of the aluminum tube.

 

 

I had the file down the end quite a bit to get it to fit into the aluminum tube.  Then I cut up the rod from T-Jay's kit to create the pin that holds in the aluminum tube.  I used a round cutting bit in a dremel to cut a round shape into the rod ends.

 

 

Then I drilled a hole through the 3D printed "knob" for the rod to fit through.  Here I lucked out again.  When drilling the recess for the front of the tube, I couldn't get a drill in there, so I ended up just trying to spin the drill bit in my hand.  Even then, there wasn't much room and the recess hole was at a slight angle.  This now worked in my favor because when I slid the aluminum tube into the recess, the "knob" end wants to sit "up" about 1/2 a centimeter.  This means I don't need to glue the retaining pin in, I can just push down on the knob, push the pin through and the slight upward pressure keeps the pin from falling out.  Cool. 

 

 

 

Next I drilled a hole in the aluminum tube and cut a channel similar to the actual stock.

 

 

I'm not entirely sure this was the wisest move.  It looks like a real stock, but there's a screw that holds the folding stock to the barrel, and by cutting out this shape into the aluminum, the screw now has nothing to screw into.  Luckily, I could pop the aluminum tube out again and I ended up shoving part of a plastic pen into the aluminum rod so that I had something for the screw to grab later.

 

Next I cut the last of the rod and drilled out the opening of the washers (both from T-Jay's kit) to create a new front pin.

 

 

 

Lastly, to hold the stock onto the barrel you need a screw sized to just the right length.  I slid the carriage bolts in temporarily and did a test fit with a screw.  I cut the screw down several times until it was the right length where the stock wasn't sitting too far away from the barrel.  Then I gave it a nice "jacket" out of heat shrink tubing.

 

 

 

And that's my stock.

 

I'm getting pretty excited.  There's light at the end of the tunnel.  I'm getting closer to painting.  I've already hit a few items with primer.  I think the bolt is one of the last items then I can begin some of the assembly.  Woohoo!!

 

Mark

 

[Dracotrooper]

Impressive amount of effort on your folding stock here; it will add unparalleled realism to your blaster - looking top notch Mark. I look forward to seeing your completed blaster

 

 

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Wow. Folding stock is looking great! 

 

Btw, you’re documenting this really well. It’s lovely to read and view. Good work, Mark. 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Great job done on the folding stock, Mark. These modifications cause a lot of effort and you went through it all the way.      Not an easy task, but properly solved.

On 17.2.2018 at 8:14 AM, Suspend said:

Hey T-Jay, it looks like from this photo that one end of the scope rail tucks into a hole towards the front, and it looks like the other end screws down into the rear sight?  Is that correct?  My scope rail doesn't look like this.  It appears to get screwed horizontally into the rear sight.  Have things changed since this photo?   (...)

Sorry for being so late to answer this. You are correct with how the rail is being mounted in that photo. Your rail looks different, because you had taken one of the "fully finished and painted scope rails with pilot holes and separate counter bracket". These got reworked and improved just recently and they now look like shown in that photo.

As Dan already suggested, you could cut the 90 degree bend off of the back end, drill a new hole and screw it straight down.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Always cool to see my 3D parts being used on a quality build.  Looks like you're really going for it!

[Suspend]

Thanks guys.  I can't believe the comments.  When I first began researching E11 builds there were certain builds that really stood out......builds that I used over and over for reference.  Now most of the people in those builds have offered very positive comments on MY build.  I feel like I'm building a motorized wagon and I've got Henry Ford, Walter P. Chrysler and Louis Chevrolet offering suggestions.  

 

And right now....I'm REALLY open to suggestions:

 

I'm just finishing up the bolt and starting to put a few parts together before painting (pics in a day or so), but I'm really looking for suggestions on paint.  Specifically the hammered effect on the main barrel and stock.  I've tried a couple of experiments with hammered paint and I'm not overly pleased with the outcome.

 

First I tried Rustoleum Universal Hammered Black Spray Paint - First off, it's not black, it's sort of a glossy gray/graphite.  If you spray it too heavy there is no hammered effect at all.  If you do several very light coats, then you do get some hammered effect, but it's fairly subtle and the paint itself is SOOOOO glossy.  If you try to knock it down afterwards with some flat black, you lose at bit of the effect.  So, it's OK, but not awesome.

 

Next I tried Tremclad Hammered Spray.  This one was more of a light stippling.  Not really what I was going for.

 

Here's a few pics.  I specifically angled the piece to catch the reflection of the lights so that the camera could capture the texture better.

 

 

T-Jay mentions he dabbed the paint with toilet paper or something while it was wet.  I tried Kleenex but all it really did was lift most of the paint off the surface of my test plastic.  I'm probably not doing it right.

 

So.....suggestions?

 

Mark

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

From your description and the photos, I would go with the Rustoleum Hammered Black with Tamiya Matte Black overtop. If you are not happy with that structure, you can try a wrinkle spray paint (like VHT GSP201). But make sure to check the specifications (temperature, humidity, ...) before buying.

 

 

[BaneLives85[TK]]

I think the rustoleum with Tamiya you've got there looks great!

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[Suspend]

Alright, I took a quick break experimenting with paint to finish the bolt...

 

Update - Bolt

 

I think one of the last parts that require fabrication is the bolt.  I saw T-Jay's and Dracotrooper's bolt end construction using a marker so I figured I'd try the same thing.  I hunted through my daughters markers (which used to be my markers) and I found a red one that was the right size and pretty much dried up.  She won't miss it.  

 

I happen to have a piece of PVC pipe leftover from my spray booth which was the perfect diameter for the inner bolt.  I was pretty concerned about taking apart the marker.  I had no idea what to expect.  In the end I didn't have anything to be concerned about.  Just a piece of spongy fabric surrounded by plastic.  No large pools of ink spraying out under pressure.

 

 

So I sanded down the end of the marker, threw out the other pieces and got a little piece of Plexiglas out of my "spare plastic" box.  I'm planning on reshaping the plexiglas to look like it's part of the outer bolt (ejection port area).

 

 

 

 

I glued the marker inside the PVC pipe and got to work reshaping the plexiglas using mainly large files and a belt sander to quickly reduce the "thickness".  It's a little hard to see, but it turned out OK....

 

 

I used the wire from T-Jay's kit and wound it around a 5/8 inch wooden dowel and then manually bent the wire to even out the spacing of the coils.

 

 

After a quick coat of primer, the bolt is ready to paint.  It will need to be painted before I assemble the bolt.  The plexiglas strip has to be glued onto the PVC pipe with the pipe already installed in the receiver tube.  Once they are glued they are not coming out anymore so I'll have to finalize the painting of these parts before I glue them together.

 

 

Next I decided to take a quick trip back to the ejection port and make that little pin thing.  Not sure what it's called.  Probably has "thingy" in the name.

 

I sketched out the size I wanted right onto the ejection port.  It was here I noticed that my port strip isn't exactly at the right angle.  It's OK, but the bottom-right of the strip should be lower.  It means my little pin thingy has to be a little higher than center and maybe not quite as long.  I'm also realizing that I'm getting close to the end of the build.  This might be the last hole I dremel.  Getting misty eyed...

 

 

I chopped off the end of a nail and went back to my "spare plastic" box and got another piece of plexiglas and shaped it into a vague "U" shape for the pin holder.

 

 

Then I glued the little parts in place.  It's hard to see because the plexiglas is still semi-transparent.  I'll post a followup photo once I have some primer down and things show up better.

 

 

Is that it?  The end of the fabrication?  I think everything that needs to be made/modified is now done.  Let me know if I forgot anything.  Next up would be the assembly and paint prep.

 

Mark

 

[Dracotrooper]

Your build keeps serving up eye candy; jaw dropping craftsmanship once again Mark. I like how you go about sourcing materials you have left over; I wouldn't think to use plexi-glass for the exposed bolt next to the charging handle as I've seen it done only with MDF. Great execution and with the grey primer, piece looking pristine as usual. Totally, as for your clearing strip and 'thingy' (extractor and plunger I believe), relative accuracy will do just fine especially so, with the serial number in place - that's a whole lot of detail that will be the envy of many!  haha, thanks for the documenting, having gotten some inspiration, I may very well circle back and upgrade my 'thingy'  - cheers!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Well done Mark. In that latest update, you thought of everything and haven't left out a thing to modify.

[Suspend]

Thanks again, guys.  I'm excited to see it painted but not excited to wait for paint to dry. 

 

Update - Assembly / Primer

 

Slowly things are coming together.  When I order the other 3D Printed parts from Shapeways (Suitcase Props) I also picked up the flash guard / ejection port guard.  The Doopydoo's version is kind of thick.  I sanded them down a little to remove some of the 3D print texture, hit them with grey primer and sanded them again.  They were then glued on using CA glue and later I went around the outside with green stuff to further fill in the seams.

 

 

I started doing a bit of weathering on the spring and end of the bolt.  I need to complete the painting before I permanently install this as once it is glued, it's not coming out.  But here's an "in-progress" shot...

 

 

Next I hit the handle with some primer and got it attached.  I was going to completely paint the handle first before attaching, but we seem to have quite an issue in my area with getting descent spray paint.  Humbrol Spray Paint is completely out of the question.  After weeks of searching I decided there is no Humbrol Spray in Canada.  None.  I would have liked to stick with Humbrol because I know it has worked with other builds.  Tamiya spray paints are readily available which is what I use for Primer and the black of the power cylinders and Hengstler Counter.  I'd like to use a different black for the matte black of the gun itself so I'm trying to track down some Testors Matte Black.  It's also enamel so they should play well together.  Anyway, after striking out with the Testors I decided I would just attach the handle and mask it off later.  I'll try some other stores for the Testors spray later in the week.

 

 

 

The front and rear scopes were attached.  The end cap clip was attached.  Seams that didn't look completely tight were filled in with green stuff and sanded after they dried.  Then, finally, the whole gun was hit with Tamiya grey primer.  (I shoved a few paper towels into the receiver tube so that the inside wouldn't get any over-spray)

 

 

And here's the close-up I promised of the bolt/ejection port....

 

 

I've also been doing a ton of reading about paints.  Very interesting.  I'll do a separate post just for paint.

 

Mark

 

[Suspend]

Lets Talk About Paint

 

(Story Time)

When I was about 10 years old I had a Stormtrooper blaster.  This was in the late 70's.  At some point my 10-year-old self decided that the blaster would look better white.  So I got some of my dad's spray paint out of the shed and painted it white on our back lawn.  Weeks or months later, I realized the error in my thinking and spray painted it black again.  But this time, the paint crinkled and wouldn't cover.  It separated leaving cracks of white showing, like a dried out lake bed.  The blaster was ruined and ever since then, I've been afraid of layering paint.

 

After starting on my current build, I did a bunch of reading in scale model forums and they seem to be no strangers to this effect.  That's when someone mentioned LEA.....not LEIA, like the Princess, but an acronym.  LEA = Lacquer , Enamel, Acrylic.  If you are layering different types of paints, this is the order you are supposed to follow for the greatest chance of success.  Apparently all spray paints use a base which is a sort of solvent, some will react poorly with others.  The worst (strongest solvent) seems to be lacquer and the weakest (solvent) seems to be Acrylic (almost water).  Most lacquer paints will dissolve Enamel and Acrylic and many Enamels will dissolve Acrylic, but Acrylic won't dissolve anything.  Hence the order to layering.  However, not all paint manufacturers tell you what the base is.  Home Depot will sell a Clear Coat without mentioning that it's Lacquer.  I found that in the material safety sheet on a different web site.  Then you see that the paint has three 1-star reviews.  People say the clear coat is horrible, don't buy it, it destroyed my beautiful paint job.  Hmmm, yes, that's because it's lacquer and you probably sprayed it over Enamel or Acrylic  But there seem to be many exceptions too.  Tamiya uses "synthetic lacquer" which behaves differently and some people get away with normal lacquer clear coats over Acrylic if they are applied as several, very thin, coats.  It's all incredibly confusing.

 

So, back to my paint job.  Humbrol sprays are Acrylic.  Acrylic is safe over pretty much everything.  I wanted to use Humbrol Spray paint but you can't get Humbrol Sprays in Canada.  You can get Tamiya (another scale model paint) in Canada, but Tamiya is Synthetic Lacquer.  Warning Flag.

 

So right now my plan is :

     - Start with the Tamiya Gray Primer

     - Mask off the gun and paint the grip a Tamiya Gloss Black and maybe follow up with a Tamiya Gloss Clear-Coat (these should all behave together)

     - Unmask the gun and mask off the grip then paint gun and stock Rust-oleum Hammered Silver (no info on base Rust-oleum uses but probably lacquer)

     - Paint over the hammered silver with Testors Enamel Matte Black

     - Weather

     - Follow up with Matte Clear Coat (this is the dangerous part as most clear coats are lacquer)

 

I'd love to hear experiences (both good and bad) that people have had layering paints...

 

Mark

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by Suspend
Mistakenly used Tremclad instead of Rust-oleum

[T-Jay[TK]]

Great updates, Mark. Have done model building at this age too, but luckily never experienced something like this. However, your paint summary will be very helpfull for many readers.

 

6 hours ago, Suspend said:

(...)    - Follow up with Matte Clear Coat (this is the dangerous part as most clear coats are lacquer)    (...)

As long as you are unsure if this really works, I would simply not risk anything and skip this step. Reasons:

- the paint will also be fine without a layer of clear coat

- no point to risk your paint job in one of the last build steps

- you can add the clear coat anytime later, even after doing the weathering and seal this too

[Dracotrooper]

Thanks a bunch Mark for the summary about paint. It is very helpful to know the interplay when layering different paint. I have always been confused about best combinations; with what you've outlined, I have the important things to keep in mind now. Great to see your blaster coming along; love that extractor / plunger part of the exposed bolt; so real!!!! Looking forward to your next post.

[wook1138[TK]]

Hey Mark, I like your paint summary.  I too started painting models when I was around 10 years old.  When I got older I picked up an airbrush and painted with mainly enamels on small scale models.  I did a lot of painting with acrylics (not models) as an adult.  I started getting back into the model paints last year and I was pretty confused by what is now available and how one should go about painting props (well, so far it has been restricted to SW blasters )

 

What you outlined above,  lacquer - enamel - acrylic, is pretty much my mantra when painting.  But like you mentioned, it doesn't always need to happen that way.  For example, I have had luck with coating enamel and acrylic with lacquer (clear coat).  For me, it really comes down to timing and how you apply the paint (which is another can of worms).  Some paints dry quickly but can degas or otherwise take much longer to truly cure.  I find that by using thin coats applied well after the undercoat has had a chance to cure, lacquer can cover enamel and acrylic with no adverse effect (as an example).  The timing between the thin coats and the environment (humidity and temp) can also play a part, but I don't really have a system for dealing with that.  I just avoid extremes and hope for the best.

 

I treat the Tamiya TS spray paints like a whole separate paint group - between lacquer and enamel - because it just confuses me .  I assumed the rustoleum was an enamel.  I used  rustoleum universal hammered paint and primer (silver) for a base on part of my E-11.  It didn't really add a lot of "hammered" detail, but it did make the parts of what would have been the original sterling stand out from the add-on parts (cylinders and counter). 

 

At the end of the day, I find that painting a 1:1 model gun with weathering does provide some freedom - it doesn't need to be a perfect paint surface.  Also, testing on scrap pieces is a great idea because there are many factors that go into how paints are going to behave - not everybody will get the same result using the same paints.

 

By the way, this build is truly impressive.  Nice work!  I can't wait to see the finished product.

[Dracotrooper]

Can someone shed light on LEA from stinky (toxic fumes) to no smell - this will be helpful for builders to know with confined spaces and people near by


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