Wompet[TK] Posted December 19, 2017 Report Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) This was originally going to be an Anovos kit, but ... well, Anovos. So a few weeks ago I bought TheLoneRanger's partially assembled kit and now I'm working through what I need to do. So, some pictures: No Big Brown Box, but I got a Big Black Bin Starting with the helmet, I'll need to: remove the black paint on the teeth and repaint them gray paint the rank bars on the ears try and fix the gaps on the bottom of the ear caps get the correct screws for the ear caps remove the stickers and hand-paint the tears, traps, and tube stripes (I'm aiming for Centurion) replace the hovi-tips with Ukswrath's hovi-speakers install the s-trim The kit: I'll skip any more pictures for now, but the short list is I need to: re-do the strapping (need to get some brackets possibly) remove, repaint, and re-position the ab buttons remove all the return edges from the shins, thighs, biceps, and forearms repalce the female snaps on the posterior armor with male snaps get a holster for the E-11 Edited December 19, 2017 by Wompet Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted December 19, 2017 Report Posted December 19, 2017 Looking forward to the progress Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted December 19, 2017 Report Posted December 19, 2017 I´m not sure if this applies to the 2.0 kit (hoping it don`t) and perhaps you`re already aware but for Centurion the CRL states: AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. And some info on the Shins: The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Best of luck on your build Quote
68Brick[TK] Posted December 19, 2017 Report Posted December 19, 2017 Good Start Gary. You might have to add "size arms, legs, and torso accordingly" to your laundry list of items to touch. You're on your way! Keep up the posts and pics! Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Posted December 19, 2017 20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Looking forward to the progress Me too. 8 hours ago, 68Brick said: Good Start Gary. You might have to add "size arms, legs, and torso accordingly" to your laundry list of items to touch. You're on your way! Keep up the posts and pics! The sizing seems right, but we'll see. 14 hours ago, TheSwede said: I´m not sure if this applies to the 2.0 kit (hoping it don`t) and perhaps you`re already aware but for Centurion the CRL states: AM chest plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. AM back plate must be replaced with a more screen accurate version. And some info on the Shins: The AM greaves (shins) shall be on the proper legs, with a new cover strip. The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. Note: There is a manufacturer defect with the AM greaves (shins) that may cause you to wear the them improperly. Please see the Tutorial titled :"AM armor shins: the proper way to assemble and wear", on the whitearmor.net Best of luck on your build Okay - need to take good pictures of the chest and back plates and share them, since I don't know if this is a 2.0 kit or not ... The greaves look like their correctly assembled (left is left and right is right): but I am wondering about the cover strips on the back - are they supposed to be that wide? Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted December 20, 2017 Report Posted December 20, 2017 7 hours ago, Wompet said: The greaves look like their correctly assembled They are 7 hours ago, Wompet said: cover strips on the back They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up. 1 Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted December 21, 2017 Author Report Posted December 21, 2017 On 12/20/2017 at 12:35 AM, TheSwede said: They are They normaly are 25mm (can vary) but they should stop at the ridge, not go all the way up. Okay, so that's at least one set of cover strips I'll need to redo. Thanks. 1 Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Posted February 13, 2018 Okay, haven't updated this in a while ... I removed all of the return edges from the forearms (I thought - having looked at some other threads I may have to remove a little more. I still need to: work on the bucket (but now I have paints and templates from Trooperbay for the outside) re-do the strapping (need to get some brackets possibly) remove, repaint, and re-position the ab buttons repalce the female snaps on the posterior armor with male snaps So, for the last point - any suggestions on how to remove the female snaps? And, when I get out the Dremel for the forearms again - I need to even out the butt plate with the kidney plate, don't I? Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted April 13, 2018 Report Posted April 13, 2018 Any updates??? its been 2 months from the last post Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Posted April 13, 2018 Just interruptions and delays. I still need to: finish re-doing the straps (I now have new snap-setting tools, so hopefully this will get done on my next days off) remove, trim, repaint, and reposition the ab buttons (or possibly just repaint) re-do the belt and order a holster repaint the helmet 1 Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted August 19, 2018 Author Report Posted August 19, 2018 I haven't updated this in awhile (and I don't know if anyone can read this right now), but the only things left before starting a Pre-Approval thread are replacing the Ab buttons (a quick trim, paint, and glue) and a little work on the helmet (I'm playing 3-D Tetris with my head, the helmet pads, and the electronics). Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted August 20, 2018 Report Posted August 20, 2018 Hey Gary, a lot has happened since the last time I posted here. I see several problems with your armor. First off, the snaps on the butt plate are wrong, but that's not really an issue as soon as I tell you the other problem. Where you have those snaps set in, needs to come off. Take the entire return off the butt. you can see the edge the runs the entire part and that is where the cut line is. staying with the butt plate, yes that line from the kidney notch should line up with the butt plate. For any other questions, please post more pics and we can get that TK approved! Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted August 22, 2018 Author Report Posted August 22, 2018 Well, I already evened out the kidney and butt plates, so that's done. On 8/20/2018 at 8:31 AM, Commander Gree said: First off, the snaps on the butt plate are wrong, but that's not really an issue as soon as I tell you the other problem. Where you have those snaps set in, needs to come off. Take the entire return off the butt. you can see the edge the runs the entire part and that is where the cut line is. Yeah, the original owner did some ... interesting things with his build. Weird snaps and return edges everywhere. I drilled out and replaced the incorrect snaps with the correct ones, but now I see that I basically have to do the following: Well, I can take care of trimming those when I do the ab buttons. Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted August 23, 2018 Report Posted August 23, 2018 13 hours ago, Wompet said: Well, I already evened out the kidney and butt plates, so that's done. Yeah, the original owner did some ... interesting things with his build. Weird snaps and return edges everywhere. I drilled out and replaced the incorrect snaps with the correct ones, but now I see that I basically have to do the following: Well, I can take care of trimming those when I do the ab buttons. Sounds good. Looking forward to watching you fix everything. Going to be some work but nothing too crazy Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Posted March 31, 2019 Wow, I haven't updated this in a while ... So the good news is that I thought that I had everything ready for my Pre-Approval thread/submission pics on Saturday night. Then the right shin kept popping open, the left end of the belt popped off, and ... well, you'll see below. Almost there, stay on target ... Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted March 31, 2019 Report Posted March 31, 2019 Had a problem with my belt too, so I heated the plastic just a little and bent the belt so it would keep its shape, and not try and straighten out. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 31, 2019 Report Posted March 31, 2019 Looks like the plastic belt section is pretty straight, adding some bend to this will help, a little heat and slight pressure at each of the box sections should do the trick. You may find you need a little heat on the shin too to help it stay in a closed position, just to take some strain of it's resting place, if it rests open it will always be a pain to keep closed. Quote
Commander Gree[501st] Posted March 31, 2019 Report Posted March 31, 2019 Looks like your trying the traditional way of keeping the shin closed. I would put velcro there. It wont have any bearing on your level of approval Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted March 31, 2019 Report Posted March 31, 2019 I find velcro works very well. I’m sure at some point it’ll have to be replaced cause velcro wears thin but you can deal with it then and it’s not that hard to replace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
NoZoupForYou[TK] Posted April 1, 2019 Report Posted April 1, 2019 I wasn’t sure industrial strength Velcro would work on keeping them shut on my fat calves, but my local garrison said to use it. It works like a charm. Believe in industrial strength Velcro!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
TK-42775[TK] Posted April 1, 2019 Report Posted April 1, 2019 (edited) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RLGM7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 on each side top and bottom 0 issues Except maybe a pinch when they close Yes, it's ugly as hell in there, Trimmed to small ------Installed elastic ----- Shimmed --- Re-did magnets Edited April 2, 2019 by James Whitley 2 Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted April 1, 2019 Report Posted April 1, 2019 I got a roll of it with sticky back on it. Did the full length so of the top gets loose there is 3/4 left to hold it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Wompet[TK] Posted April 2, 2019 Author Report Posted April 2, 2019 I originally thought about using velcro for the shins, but I decided on a method similar to James': On 4/1/2019 at 7:07 AM, James Whitley said: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074RLGM7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Except that I'm using these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magcraft-Rare-Earth-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-x-1-8-in-Block-Magnet-10-Pack-NSN0911/204691493 I had used a double pair of regular bar magnets as a temporary measure for the right shin upper closure. There are now two pairs of rare earth magnets in each shin. I'm currently working on shaping the belt and on fixing that crack ... Quote
TK-42775[TK] Posted April 3, 2019 Report Posted April 3, 2019 5 hours ago, Wompet said: I originally thought about using velcro for the shins, but I decided on a method similar to James': Did you scuff up your magnets before gluing them? found that this is the main reason they come unglued, followed by not using enough glue Quote
TK-42775[TK] Posted April 3, 2019 Report Posted April 3, 2019 Might want to look at those ridges on the front of the thighs..... Quote
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