Tom's DoopyDoos ANH E11 WIP

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Greetings troopers!

 

Thanks to CableGuy's (Dan's) recommendation, I'm going to run a WIP here as well as on the UKG... God knows I'm going to need the advice!!

 

I actually started earlier in the week, haven't made much progress so far really, just been trying to get my head around everything.

 

I've also got T-jay's fantastic mod kit (cheers Tino), so I'm going to try and do as much of that as I can.

 

Some pics of the work so far:

 

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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Today I've done the screws at the end of the barrel. Was an awful lot more work than I expected to be honest, didn't realise that I'd actually have to widen the holed to get the screws in. Got there in the end though!

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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Ok, here's where I've got a problem: the trigger guard. As Dan pointed out to me, the Doopies resin one isn't big enough when you've got a working trigger...

I've seen people have mentioned using some of the aluminium from the scope rail to form the guard themselves... but I didn't go for the upgrade (the pre-built scope rail), so will I have enough aluminium to do both? I kind of assumed all the metal I have would go towards the rail, not that I've looked into the rail much yet..

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[CableGuy[TK]]

1 hour ago, BaneLives85 said:

Ok, here's where I've got a problem: the trigger guard. As Dan pointed out to me, the Doopies resin one isn't big enough when you've got a working trigger...

I've seen people have mentioned using some of the aluminium from the scope rail to form the guard themselves... but I didn't go for the upgrade (the pre-built scope rail), so will I have enough aluminium to do both? I kind of assumed all the metal I have would go towards the rail, not that I've looked into the rail much yet..

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Hey buddy,
Welcome to the FISD!! :-)

I don’t think you’ll have enough excess on the Ali from Tino’s kit. However, it’s easily sourced from a diy shop. 2mm thick I believe.
Jesse, (Dracotrooper) kindly provided some handy trigger guard diagrams. I’ll post a pic if I can steal it from my thread. (If not, page two on my FISD thread).

 

 

And DD vs sterling


You’re making solid progress. Looking forward to watching your build. :-)

Dan


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Edited December 1, 2017 by CableGuy
additional image

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Cheers Dan! I've just heard back from Marc at the G, he's suggested taking some off the back of the trigger to give more space.

Considering my very particular lack of skills, I might try that route first before resorting to the Alu one!

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Cheers Dan! I've just heard back from Marc at the G, he's suggested taking some off the back of the trigger to give more space.

Considering my very particular lack of skills, I might try that route first before resorting to the Alu one!

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No worries. Whichever route works best for you matey. :-)


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[Dracotrooper]

Great progress so far Tom! I'm one of those guys with the Doopydoos kit / Completion set as well. What an exciting journey you've embarked on. Glad to see Dan drop in even though he's finished his blaster. As for the trigger guard, my hope is the PDF Dan forwarded could provide you with some dimensions to work with, that is all. The shape and end can be made to how you want it. I can't speak from personal experience on the trigger group as I've not done the guard for my build yet. Your in good hands with Dan and Tino

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.

4 hours ago, BaneLives85 said:

(...)   I've seen people have mentioned using some of the aluminium from the scope rail to form the guard themselves... but I didn't go for the upgrade (the pre-built scope rail), so will I have enough aluminium to do both? I kind of assumed all the metal I have would go towards the rail, not that I've looked into the rail much yet..    (...)

You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.

But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.
You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.
But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Hi Tino! Thanks for the message!

Dang.. starting to think I should have gone for the scope rail, in hindsight it would save a lot of effort lol.

I'm actually trying to drop the trigger down a bit at the moment. I've shaved a bit off the back (first pic but actually took off less than shown), so now the trigger goes back further, but it still doesn't go forward enough.

I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.
You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.
But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Hi Tino! Thanks for the message!

Dang.. starting to think I should have gone for the scope rail, in hindsight it would save a lot of effort lol.

I'm actually trying to drop the trigger down a bit at the moment. I've shaved a bit off the back (first pic but actually took off less than shown), so now the trigger goes back further, but it still doesn't go forward enough.

I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.
You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.
But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Hi Tino! Thanks for the message!

Dang.. starting to think I should have gone for the scope rail, in hindsight it would save a lot of effort lol.

I'm actually trying to drop the trigger down a bit at the moment. I've shaved a bit off the back (first pic but actually took off less than shown), so now the trigger goes back further, but it still doesn't go forward enough.

I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.
You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.
But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Hi Tino! Thanks for the message!

Dang.. starting to think I should have gone for the scope rail, in hindsight it would save a lot of effort lol.

I'm actually trying to drop the trigger down a bit at the moment. I've shaved a bit off the back (first pic but actually took off less than shown), so now the trigger goes back further, but it still doesn't go forward enough.

I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Hi Tom and welcome to the FISD. Glad to see you started your own build thread and it looks like you are already in best hands.
You are right. The aluminum stripe from your kit is just long enough to make the scope rail and that counter bracket at the side. For the trigger guard you would need a separate piece of aluminum. If a person takes a completion set WITH the fully finished scope rail, the aluminum stripe from that kit will be left over and can then be used for the trigger guard.
But I would not worry too much. On my first DoopyDoo's blaster I also made a working trigger with that standard resin trigger guard. It is possible.

Hi Tino! Thanks for the message!

Dang.. starting to think I should have gone for the scope rail, in hindsight it would save a lot of effort lol.

I'm actually trying to drop the trigger down a bit at the moment. I've shaved a bit off the back (first pic but actually took off less than shown), so now the trigger goes back further, but it still doesn't go forward enough.

I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[Dracotrooper]

Not sure if you came across this resource yet - it's the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference photo compendium of SMG parts. Click here to access the PDF.

 

 

You can find it here: FISD E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE along with the Blaster Reference itself.

 

See page 18:

 

 

You can see how a real trigger looks like and design accordingly as you work to get it to fit just right; hope this helps some.

Edited December 2, 2017 by Dracotrooper
make links work

[BaneLives85[TK]]

Not sure if you came across this resource yet - it's the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference photo compendium of SMG parts. Click here to access the PDF.
 

 
You can find it here: FISD E-11 BLASTER REFERENCE along with the Blaster Reference itself.
 
See page 18:
 

 
You can see how a real trigger looks like and design accordingly as you work to get it to fit just right; hope this helps some.

Cheers buddy! Will have a look through that today, it'll probably help in some other areas too by the sounds of it!

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[T-Jay[TK]]

13 hours ago, BaneLives85 said:

(...)   I thought maybe I could chop a bit off the top of the trigger (last pic) and that maybe that would help... any thoughts?

That sounds like a good plan to me. And as Dan's picture below shows, the original trigger indeed rests deeper into that section and with a different angle. As a last option, you could also contemplate to shorten the front end of the trigger to get the required space between it and the guard.

17 hours ago, CableGuy said:

 

 

 

[BaneLives85[TK]]

 

Awesome! Thanks, Tino, will give it a shot!

Hoping to get the rear sight and scope rail done today at least... not quite sure how to tackle the rail yet.. Think I saw a diagram with measurements of it somewhere.

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Awesome! Thanks, Tino, will give it a shot!

Hoping to get the rear sight and scope rail done today at least... not quite sure how to tackle the rail yet.. Think I saw a diagram with measurements of it somewhere.

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I believe this is a respectable source. :-)




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[BaneLives85[TK]]

I believe this is a respectable source. :-)




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Dan, what would I do without you!??

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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Update: Tino, you're a genius! (I'm sure everyone already knows that)

So, I've shaved a bit off the top of the trigger (where it would pivot) and sunk the trigger deeper in. This couldn't have worked better for me as there's now a good amount of movement on the trigger while still using the Doopies trigger guard.

Next I've done the spring... this was a fiddly little nightmare and involved lots of frustration lol finally got it all in though, and by some miracle, the trigger actually *clicks* now when pulled. This was a complete and utter fluke (I'll take it though!) And is caused when the pin on the back of the trigger flicks off one of the rungs of the spring.

Only worry is: not sure how it will hold up in the long run.

(Also, the spring isn't actually glued in yet, hope this will still be there after gluing!)

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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Update: Tino, you're a genius! (I'm sure everyone already knows that)

So, I've shaved a bit off the top of the trigger (where it would pivot) and sunk the trigger deeper in. This couldn't have worked better for me as there's now a good amount of movement on the trigger while still using the Doopies trigger guard.

Next I've done the spring... this was a fiddly little nightmare and involved lots of frustration lol finally got it all in though, and by some miracle, the trigger actually *clicks* now when pulled. This was a complete and utter fluke (I'll take it though!) And is caused when the pin on the back of the trigger flicks off one of the rungs of the spring.

Only worry is: not sure how it will hold up in the long run.

(Also, the spring isn't actually glued in yet, hope this will still be there after gluing!)

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[CableGuy[TK]]

Good work mate.

(Lots of forum glitching going on at the minute. Lots of duplicate posts).

Keep up the good work. :-)


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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Update: Tino, you're a genius! (I'm sure everyone already knows that)

So, I've shaved a bit off the top of the trigger (where it would pivot) and sunk the trigger deeper in. This couldn't have worked better for me as there's now a good amount of movement on the trigger while still using the Doopies trigger guard.

Next I've done the spring... this was a fiddly little nightmare and involved lots of frustration lol finally got it all in though, and by some miracle, the trigger actually *clicks* now when pulled. This was a complete and utter fluke (I'll take it though!) And is caused when the pin on the back of the trigger flicks off one of the rungs of the spring.

Only worry is: not sure how it will hold up in the long run.

(Also, the spring isn't actually glued in yet, hope this will still be there after gluing!)

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

[CableGuy[TK]]

Good work mate.

(Lots of forum glitching going on at the minute. Lots of duplicate posts).

Keep up the good work. :-)


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[BaneLives85[TK]]

Update: Tino, you're a genius! (I'm sure everyone already knows that)

So, I've shaved a bit off the top of the trigger (where it would pivot) and sunk the trigger deeper in. This couldn't have worked better for me as there's now a good amount of movement on the trigger while still using the Doopies trigger guard.

Next I've done the spring... this was a fiddly little nightmare and involved lots of frustration lol finally got it all in though, and by some miracle, the trigger actually *clicks* now when pulled. This was a complete and utter fluke (I'll take it though!) And is caused when the pin on the back of the trigger flicks off one of the rungs of the spring.

Only worry is: not sure how it will hold up in the long run.

(Also, the spring isn't actually glued in yet, hope this will still be there after gluing!)

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk