TK CRL changes

[Harbinger[IPM]]

Quote

Thanks Mathias for bringing this up.  It's an important topic and one that the CRLs haven't really pointed out as it hasn't come up much in the past, but we wanted to let everyone know of this pending change a few days before baking the CRL.  Any questions or comments?

If we're making changes, can we add the correct screws for ears/TD into L3? They're already unwritten Centurion requirements anyway...

[Daetrin[Admin]]

What language would you use?

[Harbinger[IPM]]

For TD:

• Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and painted black (two per clip).

 

For helmet ear screws:

• Ear screws shall be slotted, flat (V-shaped) style and painted white.

 

That work? I defer to the DOs of course.

Edited November 29, 2017 by Harbinger

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

"should be black" rather than painted black. I am lead to believe the originals where japanned rather than painted, this shouldn't be prohibited by the wording.

 

"Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, counter sync and painted white."

[Locitus[Admin]]

1 hour ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

"should be black" rather than painted black. I am lead to believe the originals where japanned rather than painted, this shouldn't be prohibited by the wording.

 

"Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, counter sync and painted white."

In that case you might as well require the ear screws to be brass painted white if you're going to require RD screws to be anodised black. But I feel that's going overboard.

[Sly11[Admin]]

I think we should stick with painted. Easy for anyone to paint, not as easy to get anodized screws of the correct type.

The addition of the above mentioned, will be a much welcomed change as it eliminates ambiguity. The Thermal Det screws are something that we bring up quite regularly in the review process for a nice to have accuracy mod, and everyone makes the change so lets set it in stone.

 Anovos listened to us and made the ear screw change, so we should specify the type easy enough n the CRL's.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

4 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

I think we should stick with painted. Easy for anyone to paint, not as easy to get anodized screws of the correct type.

The addition of the above mentioned, will be a much welcomed change as it eliminates ambiguity. The Thermal Det screws are something that we bring up quite regularly in the review process for a nice to have accuracy mod, and everyone makes the change so lets set it in stone.

 Anovos listened to us and made the ear screw change, so we should specify the type easy enough n the CRL's.

Agreed.  Everyone has access to paint, but not anodized screws.  It may be going overboard, but including a small detailed photo or diagram of the screw heads may help.  Not everyone may be familiar with what a "Pan head" or "V shaped" screw head actually looks like, or the term "slotted".
 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

50 minutes ago, Locitus said:

In that case you might as well require the ear screws to be brass painted white if you're going to require RD screws to be anodised black. But I feel that's going overboard.

That's why I said "Should be black" not how they are black.  Saying "painted black" mandates paint even if you have a screw that is black via some other process such as Japanning.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

True, but "Should be black" implies that there may be an alternative.  I would vote for "Shall (or Must) be black", or white in the case of ear screws.  I think the better we define this the easier for those who may have questions about it.

[starsaber25[Admin]]

I agree with the Should or Must be black/white for ears.  Also since we are going in there and making changes maybe we should just throw on a V1 to the AM chest and back plates not being allowed.  I still get questions on that every now and again with people who have any AM chest and back plates.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:

True, but "Should be black" implies that there may be an alternative.  I would vote for "Shall (or Must) be black", or white in the case of ear screws.  I think the better we define this the easier for those who may have questions about it.

Either is fine as I read them the same in the given context, so go with what ever if felt reads the clearest.  It was more the by enforcing paint you rule out something that is actually closer to the film for something that's not even visible in general use.

[Harbinger[IPM]]

Yeah, I wrote "painted black" on the assumption that black oxide/anodized screws are nearly impossible to find, but if people want to go the extra mile, I'd rather not confuse them.

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Just so everyone is clear from a timing perspective:

 

November: we wrap up any last changes to the TFA/TLJ/TLJ-E and R1 TK CRLs.

December: our CRL focus will be on L2/L3 for TFA Phasma and getting the TLJ Phasma complete.  It will be a Phasmatastic month.

January: this will be the next window of opportunity to make any changes to the OT TKs CRLS for the term.

 

So this is a great discussion and a good expectation is to have whatever agreed upon changes written up and ready to go by end of December so that they can be worked in to a January update. 

 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

Thanks for the clarifications, Paul.

I'd also suggest adding the following to the thigh section (my additions in bold):

Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.

• The solid head rivet attachment is painted white.
• Standard pop rivets are not allowed.
• Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were single cap/rapid rivets.

 

This makes it clearer what is screen-accurate and also brings it in line with the notes on split rivets elsewhere.

Edited November 29, 2017 by Harbinger

[magni[TK]]

We all get asked a bunch about paint colors for buttons and helmet. Can't we post them or a quick link for the bill gram. On that note many of the bill grams would work all over the CRL. With links it wouldn't make the CRL crowded with text.  I'm a fan of putting as much info at there fingertips. Could it be made where they click on ab as an example and a new screen pops up and has all info like where snap goes on right side rivets on left side colors for ab plates and such. We all love telling people what they need but it does get redundant.

 

Edited November 29, 2017 by magni

[Harbinger[IPM]]

One more thing... it may be worth moving the L3 space pack requirements to L2, considering there is essentially just one vendor right now and that's what the CRL is based on.

[illusionz_09[TK]]

On 11/29/2017 at 5:09 AM, justjoseph63 said:

Agreed.  Everyone has access to paint, but not anodized screws.  It may be going overboard, but including a small detailed photo or diagram of the screw heads may help.  Not everyone may be familiar with what a "Pan head" or "V shaped" screw head actually looks like, or the term "slotted".
 

you can always google what that means. 

I feel if you are going centurion, you are asking other TKs what is what. So you should arrive with the correct conclusion

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Explanations of each screw are described in my "Supply List..." thread, as well as detailed photos if anyone needs to reference them.

[Harbinger[IPM]]

12 hours ago, adailyptc said:

The Centurion CRL requires photos of that area (im assuming to check the straps), but doesn't mention the width of those straps.  My current straps were a bit of guessing on my part.  You are the second person to mention the 1/8" width, so I will be fixing that this weekend.  Thanks for your help.

I double checked and this is currently what is there:

• The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

...This should probably be amended to specify size.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, Harbinger said:

I double checked and this is currently what is there:

• The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

...This should probably be amended to specify size.

It could but then again the CRL's are only a guide and not 100% precise, this was added to CRL's recently

 

• This document is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval.
• Information on how to construct a costume for 501st approval may be found on the respective costume detachment web forum.

 

Personally I would love to see every piece of info in a CRL but how long would that make them  

 

 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

We already specify size for the belt etcetera, some CRLs (looking at you, Pathfinders) calls out width for all strapping for the higher approval tiers, might be worth adding?

[magni[TK]]

I'm all for more detailed info in CRL. It would help avoid many rookie mistakes, avoid answering repetitive questions and have info in one place. Some seem to not want to actually dig through posts and do real research.  And saying it's visual doesn't work well when some model photos are ancient. I'm building a TKC right now and a few things from the photos in the reference photo thread don't match CRL or model. Like don't just say Black paint. Say semi Gloss black paint. 

[starsaber25[Admin]]

Moved to public area and locked. 

[starsaber25[Admin]]

Please continue the conversation in this thread. 

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44227-march-2018-reqeust-for-crl-updates-thread/