Anzo's TFA FOTK/TLJ Executioner Builds (KB) aka the Terrible Twofer!

[Ruthar[TK]]

Glad the method worked for you, too!  Coming along wonderfully, AJ!

[Anzo[TK]]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I was telling my wife yesterday that this build is like a snowball. It started off slow but once I got rolling, I can't stop it! Getting pieces put together and what not, it is all I think about now. Hoping to be ready to paint by next week. 

[trond1138]

the sides on my kb_back is paperthinn where back and front meet on sides .any idea 

[Ruthar[TK]]

2 minutes ago, trond1138 said:

the sides on my kb_back is paperthinn where back and front meet on sides .any idea 

I had the same issue. I just reinforced the area with spare ABS glued to the inside to thicken it up. I went edge to edge on the top and bottom so the area couldn’t flex as easily and crack.

[Anzo[TK]]

1 hour ago, Ruthar said:

I had the same issue. I just reinforced the area with spare ABS glued to the inside to thicken it up. I went edge to edge on the top and bottom so the area couldn’t flex as easily and crack.

Good idea I should do that too. 

[trond1138]

[Anzo[TK]]

Alright gents lets talk adhesives. I was planning on using Bondo on the seams and such but after looking at other build threads, it appears that Bondo isn't a good option. This leaves me with two apparent options, Devcon glue or epoxy putty.

 

Epoxy putty is the less expensive and complicated option but appears to be more labor intensive. @Ruthar how may tubes of that did you end up using? My hang up with the putty is that it is a real bugger to sand down. A friend of mine used this putty to shim his abs and thighs on his OT TK and we were there for hours just sanding down those seams.

 

The Devcon glue seems to be quicker but is also significantly more expensive. @ukswrath does this appear to be a complete list of what I would need to use plastic welder?

 

Cartridge x 4 (remember I'm building two yokes) - is this too much glue? Can I get the job done with less?

Gun

Tips - are tips universal? Can I buy some 3M tips and use them on a Devcon cartridge?

Spreader - I already have one.

 

On the subject of 3M, is there a 3M equivalent to plastic welder II? I only ask because I can get a gun, cartridges and tips for half the price of the Devcon stuff. 

 

Finally, what is the role of the Glazing Putty? Do I need the hardener? Is this all that I need to fill in the rest of the gaps (forearms, ab, biceps)

 

I've never used any of this stuff in my life so don't want to screw it up, buy too much/not enough etc. 

 

 

 

Edited February 21, 2018 by Anzo

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I used JB weld, I gather it is similar to Devcon, it was expensive but specified to use as a plastic glue, I didn't want to redo everything over .

 

I still used bondo it fill gaps over the joins, easy to work with and dries within minutes, can start sanding with course 36 paper then to 80 and through to 240, removes most of the scratches.

 

Some areas that needed some flexibility I used E6000, specifically the shins as these take a lot of pressure opening and closing, also used on the spats.

 

I used a high build spray putty as it fills in a lot of small holes and scratches, if you apply a mist coat of black it will show you any remaining holes and scratches after you have wet sanded. I prefer wet sanding as it prevents the paper from clogging, you can also use a much finer paper. I start with 240 grit then end with a 400 grit. If there is any holes or scratches left you then use a glazing or spot putty.

 

Glazing putting is a fine filler, for scratches and small holes, doesn't have a hardner it dries in 24 hours, I sand with wet with wet and dry sandpaper, the paper lasts longer and doesn't get clogged up as quickly.

 

Note, you don't want to add a lot of the glazing putty as it can soften from the thinners in paint, so for deep scratches or holes I would go over with a small amount of bondo first.

 

Lots of tutorials online for automotive body work, pretty much the same process on armor  

 

 

 

[Anzo[TK]]

54 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I used JB weld, I gather it is similar to Devcon, it was expensive but specified to use as a plastic glue, I didn't want to redo everything over .

 

I still used bondo it fill gaps over the joins, easy to work with and dries within minutes, can start sanding with course 36 paper then to 80 and through to 240, removes most of the scratches.

 

Some areas that needed some flexibility I used E6000, specifically the shins as these take a lot of pressure opening and closing, also used on the spats.

 

I used a high build spray putty as it fills in a lot of small holes and scratches, if you apply a mist coat of black it will show you any remaining holes and scratches after you have wet sanded. I prefer wet sanding as it prevents the paper from clogging, you can also use a much finer paper. I start with 240 grit then end with a 400 grit. If there is any holes or scratches left you then use a glazing or spot putty.

 

Glazing putting is a fine filler, for scratches and small holes, doesn't have a hardner it dries in 24 hours, I sand with wet with wet and dry sandpaper, the paper lasts longer and doesn't get clogged up as quickly.

 

Note, you don't want to add a lot of the glazing putty as it can soften from the thinners in paint, so for deep scratches or holes I would go over with a small amount of bondo first.

 

Lots of tutorials online for automotive body work, pretty much the same process on armor  

 

 

 

Are you referring to something like this when you say JB weld? 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014AFQLSA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2SZ1SUT04XLWW&psc=1

Edited February 21, 2018 by Anzo

[Ruthar[TK]]

You've got some fabulous information from gmrhodes up there!

1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Lots of tutorials online for automotive body work, pretty much the same process on armor  

That's a pretty important point that I just wanted to highlight.  There are tons of methods for gap filling/sanding/painting, you just have to find one you like. If you've never used filler/bondo/etc. before, I suggest testing on some scrap first as you definitely don't want to be diving into your armour without any practice.

 

Regardless, to answer your question specifically, the epoxy putty I used was from Home Depot. All in all, I probably used 5 or 6 tubes of it total. I found it easier to get into tight spaces (using a little bit of water goes a long way, too) whereas Bondo can be a little more difficult to work with due to the fast drying time. Yes, it definitely is a bit of work to sand down, but I did find it less prone to bubbles and divots than Bondo during the sanding process.

 

The Devcon Plastic Weld is an amazing product, but I stay away from it only because the price is so much higher. If you need something fused within minutes, however, it is impossible to beat the Devcon!

Edited February 21, 2018 by Ruthar

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

13 minutes ago, Anzo said:

Are you referring to something like this when you say JB weld? 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014AFQLSA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2SZ1SUT04XLWW&psc=1

This is the one I used, not sure if they are exactly the same or not. BTW it can be sanded.

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I used the Devcon (btw has come down in price significantly since my build) mainly for assembly and the top of the yoke as a filler. All other areas I used 3M or DFL1 spot putty (for areas under 1/8" thickness). The reason I highly recommend is the easy of use. With mixing tips it's almost impossible to screw up the process. The gun makes it very easy to control and manage. As for the glue itself, full cure in 45 minutes max, pliable (to an extent) and relatively easy to shape as a peak (a nightmare to work with in valleys). All in all it took me roughly 4 cartridges and a pack 10 tips for the entire armor plus reworks and paint prepping. I still use it today on many other armor projects. If $ is not an object and you want something that wont crack over time, and you plan to pro paint I can't recommend any other product (and I've tried them all working in the auto industry for 35 years).

 

That said this is only my opinion. I've seen just as fine work from others using other products.    

[Anzo[TK]]

Thanks everybody for the input. I’ll have to mull this over a bit more. I realize now that the Devcon would end up being less as I could probably get away with just one cartridge for the 2 yokes if Tony used 4 for the entire set of armor. That knocks off $60 right there. 

 

I could fill the rest of the seams with the glaze putty I linked above right?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

1 hour ago, Anzo said:

I could fill the rest of the seams with the glaze putty I linked above right?

You need automotive spot putty, the same stuff they use on plastic bumpers. 90 degree flexibility. The PPG DFL1 can be found at your local auto body supply store. It has built in hardener so no mixing required. 

[Anzo[TK]]

TFW your dentist friend has a spare epoxy gun he was about to throw away. 

 

 

Tony do you think the Devcon cartridges will fit in this or are they proprietary?

@ukswrath

Edited February 22, 2018 by Anzo

[ukswrath[Staff]]

That looks exactly like what I use however, there's no way to know for certain. As long as it works with 50ml cartridges I don't see why not.

[Anzo[TK]]

5 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

That looks exactly like what I use however, there's no way to know for certain. As long as it works with 50ml cartridges I don't see why not.

It does fit 50 ml cartridges. I already have them on order so we'll know for sure in a few days. Worst case they don't and I buy one on Amazon. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Copy

[Anzo[TK]]

Thighs: 

 

The thighs as ordered by KB need a fair amount of trimming to be accurate. Among other things they are way too tall.

 

 

The amount to cut is going to be different for each person so be sure to do a number of fitment tests with painters tape and a pencil. Initially, I taped them up like this and tried them on over my undersuit. Once I was comfortable where I wanted them, I traced a line along the overlapped edge at the seam and top overlap and cut accordingly. 

 

I then created a faux shelf using the same method as the biceps and glued the inside seams together.

 

 

It was at this point that I decided to do a test fit of some stuff just to check something. I'm nearly 6'1" but mostly torso so I was pretty sure that I would need to shave down the thighs a bit to account for my stubby-ish legs.

 

 

While this tape job isn't a 1:1 replica of the finished product, I was clear enough that I was right. So I got to work and shaved off about an inch from the top rear rim so that the butt plate and tops of the thighs wouldn't rub together. 

 

Using the same methods on the other side, I also trimmed, sized and glued the outside seams. I also marked where the greeblies will go near the top. 

 

 

Done with the thighs for now. 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by Anzo

[Anzo[TK]]

Thermal Detonator Pt 2:

 

It was finally time to glue the TD to the back plate. I did so and filled in the seams with some epoxy putty I had forgotten that I purchased. Although I don't plan on filling any other seams with this product, it seemed like a good option for the TD with all the curves, seams and gaps that needed to be filled.

 

 

 

These will be sanded down in a few days. 

 

TD Clips:

 

I also made some TD clips using Ruthar's method. I will just refer you to his build for the method. Link in OP and it was stickied as of this posting. Works really well and is very easy to do so I recommend that.

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by Anzo

[Anzo[TK]]

Greeblie Sanding & Shaping:

 

KB's greeblies come to you flat and need to be formed to contour better to their respective pieces. To do this, I sanded down the rough edges of each piece and dremeled down the base of each until they were a low enough profile to my liking.

 

Afterwards, I applied a heat gun at low setting for about 15-20 seconds (err on the lower side if you aren't comfortable with this device) and applied ample pressure against the specific notch where it would go.

I then labeled each greeblie so that I wouldn't confuse them down the line when it comes time to glue. Some curves will be more pronounced than others. This process is fairly reversible as long as you are conservative in your heat application and need to adjust them for some reason. 

 

[Anzo[TK]]

Magnetic Closure of Ab/Kidney:

 

Mirroring the method from Jayben Kenobi I will be closing my Ab/Kidney piece with magnets. I opted for six 1.26" x 1/8" magnets, which are on the larger side. Others have gone smaller and done 4 sets of closures. Hard to say which is best so go with what works for you.

 

I won't go into too great detail and will just refer you to the link above and Ruthar's build yet again but will reiterate some pointers that helped me.

 

1) Mark your polarity - put an X on the positive sides of each magnet so that you don't accidentally glue them in and they don't connect. That would be the worst! 

 

 

2) You may need a little extra height to make each side sit flush. Mine ended up looking this this when all was said and done. Check and double check fitment before glueing!

 

 

3) Mark each connection when you trace them out so that you don't lose track of what goes where. I used numbers.

 

 

4) Be sure to marvel at the awesomeness of your completed work! 

 

Its...so...beautiful!

Edited February 27, 2018 by Anzo

[Ruthar[TK]]

You're really cranking along with this - excellent work!

[Anzo[TK]]

Upper Chest Hole Filing:

 

KB supplies a 3D printed block to mimic the upper chest hole.

 

 

It seemed like a chore to have to cut out the indent and replace it with this block piece however. So before I did that, I opted to try filing out the shape of the hole first with some tools. Worst case scenario I screw it up and have to use the 3D Printed piece anyway.

 

Tools for the job:

 

 

First I consulted the CRL to get a general feel for the shape of it. I then used a ruler and made some lines and a file to break through the first layer of the bottom. 

 

 

Using a straight edged file I meticulously opened up the bottom edge. Once it was wide enough, I used lexan scissors to trim the upward left and right corners. Near each top corner the scissors were too fat to make a fine point. At this juncture I used an exact knife to shave off the edges until it came to a point in each corner. I then continued to file away at my traced lines and to make each side match as best as possible.

 

Final Result vs CRL:

 

There are still a number of pencil markings that make the edges look rougher than they actually are in photos. Overall, I'm content with how it turned out. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice work AJ