Timberwoof's Anovos ANH TK Build Thread

[Timberwoof[TK]]

I got a Sterilite 40 gallon rolly box for $24 at OSH. With clever packing the armor completely fits inside. Since it is black and has cool techy shapes molded into it, I could not resist also getting a rattlecan of glossy white and a roll of masking tape. The lid is drying. I'll have to sand it where I was a little over-enthusiastic in applying paint, then paint that area again … lightly. 

 

Gmrhodes, your animated GIF is cycling in time to my wall clock's ticking. It is almost as hypnotic as my Prius dashboard's Passenger Entrancement Mode.

[Timberwoof[TK]]

I had three construction issues and a bunch of dressing issues in my request for approval. ("Dressing" means details that can be fixed by a keen assistant helping me get the armor on.) 
1. There was a problem with the shoulder bells sticking out too far. It was awful one one side as the biceps had rotated (and I hadn't noticed.) I'll need to trim off some of the return edge. That's tricky on the inside curve and I don't want to overdo it. 

2. Thighs need to be trimmed. I don't know what that means. I have asked the reviewer to clarify.  

3. Correct the Anovos belt. The Reference Guide says "two rivets at the bottom", which my belt has. It wasn't clear that the two rivets it is talking about are the ones attaching the straps to the belt. This is described un Ukswrath's thread, so that has to happen. That Anovos bet is rather flimsy so I think iI'll redo that form scratch. 

4. "Helmet needs the last 2 teeth painted on the frown." However, in Ukswrath's thread, "Out of the box the Anovos helmet meets basic, EIB and SHOULD meet Centurion standards…" The Guide says “Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.“ Are the grey teeth painted as shown in this thread  a requirement at basic? 

 

[Haribon72[TK]]

^^^   Please share the basic approval pictures so we can help.

[lili ledy trooper]

hello i’m new used here can somebody help me lol


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[Timberwoof[TK]]

2 hours ago, lili ledy trooper said:

hello i’m new used here can somebody help me lol


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Welcome. I can try to help, as I'm a relative newbie. I hate to just reply, "What kinds of help do you need?" so I'll also suggest https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ . How can I help? Are you starting a Star Wars costume project? 

Edited December 20, 2017 by Timberwoof

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Here are the photos I submitted. 

 

 

 

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

On ‎2017‎-‎12‎-‎19 at 2:30 AM, Timberwoof said:

There was a problem with the shoulder bells sticking out too far

I don`t see any elastic at your lower bell, that will help keeping the bells in. And try to shorten the elastic at the top, bells idealy should touch the bridges.

 

On ‎2017‎-‎12‎-‎19 at 2:30 AM, Timberwoof said:

Thighs need to be trimmed

Since you asked the reviewer to clarify it`s best to let that person answer.

 

On ‎2017‎-‎12‎-‎19 at 2:30 AM, Timberwoof said:

Correct the Anovos belt

Stunt only has 2 rivets/fasteners for the holster, yours seem to have 4.

 

On ‎2017‎-‎12‎-‎19 at 2:30 AM, Timberwoof said:

"Helmet needs the last 2 teeth painted on the frown

Frown appears fine - can`t help there.

 

Keep it up -  almost there

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Thanks for the reply, TheSwede. 

The shoulder bells do have elastic under the arms. I'm going to trim the return edges and make sure the arms are rotated correctly. 

 

The problem with the thighs was that they were up too high and the whole chest armor was too low. I spent some time the other day just trying different fit of parts and got better results. I am probably going to replace much of the strapping system with non-elastic straps, with snaps where possible. 

 

I'm loath to argue the requirement for the teeth with my local reviewer. 

The biggest job will be to make the belt correct. It's flimsy anyway. 

Edited December 20, 2017 by Timberwoof

[TheSwede[TK]]

2 minutes ago, Timberwoof said:

The shoulder bells do have elastic under the arms

I had to look even closer and maybe I see it about 2inches up from the bottom, correct? They should be at the bottom

RS suit for reference

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Silly me! I should have guessed that from the most excellently detailed and explained Anovos instructions, which are almost as good as Ikea's! 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

34 minutes ago, Timberwoof said:

Thanks for the reply, TheSwede. 

The shoulder bells do have elastic under the arms. I'm going to trim the return edges and make sure the arms are rotated correctly. 

 

The problem with the thighs was that they were up too high and the whole chest armor was too low. I spent some time the other day just trying different fit of parts and got better results. I am probably going to replace much of the strapping system with non-elastic straps, with snaps where possible. 

 

I'm loath to argue the requirement for the teeth with my local reviewer. 

The biggest job will be to make the belt correct. It's flimsy anyway. 

Yeah, Anovos belt is junk. Be super careful when you go to remove the rivet covers - I destroyed two of mine and had to source replacements from ATA. I also sliced my finger open. Yay.

 

Other unsolicited advice: use popper snaps (or better yet, magnet snaps, Tandy sells them) for your belt-to-ab plate connection. The line 24 snaps hold great, but are a major PITA when putting the belt on.

 

If you ever plan on going ESB or ANH-Hero, some way of making the belt portion removable might be worth pursuing as then you'd only have to swap out the canvas portion instead of having two or three seperate belts. Again, only if you think it might be an option later on.

Edited December 20, 2017 by Harbinger

[Timberwoof[TK]]

I tried my hand at very fine model painting to get the required teeth on the helmet. I'm not pleased with how they turned out. The helmet has all sorts of subtle and not-so-subtle asymmetries. This is the work so far, which I'm letting set rather that risk smearing it. Time for the lamp with the big magnifying glass. 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

I found it helped to pick up some hobby cotton swabs (like these: https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/paints-finishes-60/tamiya-maintenance-material-62000/craft-cotton-swab-87105). You can use them with some rubbing alcohol (the higher strength, 90% I think?) to clean up/remove the overspray (which the DOs will ask you to do for Centurion) as well as any painting mistakes.

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Spray Paint Practice. I inflicted the 3M sponge sander on my Hasbro E-11 to remove a yucky yellow grunge layer, some painted wear marks, and the Imperial logo. I wiped the dust off, then sprayed flat black paint at it. The Hasbro H-11 is clearly designed to be easily manufacturable. The tubes are only at 90° angles so the molds can retract from it. he way it is made, it cannot have the angled ones of the canonical design. That's why it can't be used for the advanced levels of accuracy. This is going to be just an exercise in model-painting. The next step will be to mask the pewpew part and expose the grip, and inflict semi-gloss paint on it. Then I'll try painting that u-shaped indentation gray. 

Already it looks a lit more impressive than its original white, orange, black color scheme. 

 

[Timberwoof[TK]]

The last spray painting I did was all the pipes in my basement in the ANSI colors for water, gas, electric, and sewage because. It takes a light touch and patience to do this. I'm pleased that the copyright notice and the CE thing still show up: that means I didn't overdo it. 
 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

Those Hasbro blasters aren’t accurate, but they’re a great starter/placeholder blaster!

[shadan[TK]]

Hey mate. Great thread so far. You’re ahead of me but I thought I might be able to provide some (admittedly noob) advice.

 

With your thighs, they look quite long to my eye. They seem to sit quite high up in your groin and possibly even cover your knees a bit? Almost as if they are resting on the top of your shins. It is hard to tell from the photos but I wonder if you may benefit from removing some material from the tops of your thigh pieces but maintain the current shape.

Do you have a garter system to hold them in place?

 

The teeth issue confuses me, I’m not sure if I’ve painted mine correctly either. Sorry!

 

Now this one is hard because I can’t quite tell in your photos, but it seems to me that your cod is either sitting a bit low or your kidney plate too high. These two pieces should marry together nicely, with the six split rivets aligning. Depending on the level of accuracy you are going for they don’t need to be touching but, I believe, should align horizontally. There are no end of pics on this throughout these forums. If I wasn’t on my iPad I would try to link a pic for you. 

But try this thread:

So much useful information here. I’ve been using this a lot myself. There are some handy diagrams for attaching holders there too!

 

Hope some of that helps. 

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Amazing what semi-gloss black and flat black and careful masking can do for a lowly Hasbro toy. 

 

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Enough fiddle-farting around with extraneous details. Helmet. I read threads and references and emails up down and sideways. Here's what I think: "Teeth" are black. Eight are standard. Areas in between number eleven, so white "teeth" not cut out in the last ones are correct. 

Here's my helmet now: 

I went at the lower overspray with a fine file to pretty good effect; that can use some touch-up. I might as well do the upper lip as well. I painted the extra gray areas as seen in some other Anovos ANH builds but I don't like the shapes, so some very gentle filing and touching up is in order here. I'll try a toothpick as a brush. 

 

The green visor keeps falling out because the velcro pads glued to the helmet keep unsticking. I'd glue them to the pads there, but underneath them is some bad engineering: 

I don't like how those screws are sticking out. I can either unscrew them, clamp them down on a vise I haven't got, saw them off, and put them back, or get that Dremel I've always wished I needed and cut the ends off in situ. That will satisfy my sense of good engineering and make those sticky pads stick better. Maybe I'll glue them too. Once that's done I can correctly place the visor velcro. That's a dodgy system, but it's the 20% solution that solves the problem 80%. I can wear my glasses inside the helmet, which pleases me greatly. I may also fiddle about with the velcro pairs that hold the helmet liner in place, and address its fastening that unsticks. (Old adhesives all over the place!)

Hmm. Plasti-dip for the inside. That will probably become top priority once I get transferred to Tatooine. 

My Imperial Issue waist belt is on order. That project comes next. 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

Buy a dremel! A must have for armor building IMO.

[shadan[TK]]

I would be very hesitant to try and Dremel the screws off in situ my friend. They will heat up so much before you actually cut through them that they will most likely cause melting somewhere you don’t want melting! 

A while back I cut some screws for my F-11D down using my Dremel. I didn’t have a vice so I held them in a clamp. I now have a perfect screw shape melted into it

 

[Harbinger[IPM]]

You can do it if you go slowly and watch the heat buildup.

[shadan[TK]]

Well yes you can of course  

[Timberwoof[TK]]

Aha! Hold the screw tightly with needle-nose pliers as a heat sink. Or unscrew the screws, one at a time hold them with pliers and cut them with the Dremel (easier than a hacksaw), and put them back in. 

That is actually a secondary concern: merely technical and objective. For the helmet, my biggest concern is the frown, for that is subjective.  

[Harbinger[IPM]]

If you unscrew them make sure to leave the bolts on above the cut, they’ll essentially re-thread the cut end afterward when you remove them.