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Posted

Here are a couple not very good photos I downloaded of the Finn mod:

 

ITBlEITxRxRMdUAdA6ydB8ilTwL9mNNMskH3f7zI

 

6Bh0JCZnaYDUgAsCPlz6f_Vjiu6fCZl-JA3NTcoR

 

Personally i am planning on getting approved first and then doing the mod if needed.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Armor was sent to a friend to paint it in his autobody shop last week. Picking up the first pieces this weekend. It's going to be ridiculously awesome. 

Posted
1 hour ago, TheDon said:

Armor was sent to a friend to paint it in his autobody shop last week. Picking up the first pieces this weekend. It's going to be ridiculously awesome. 

Can't wait to see it. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
9 hours ago, Justin96039 said:

Any update on the painting? What’s the cost do have a professional paint job?

 

noticed you said the armor was soft. Do you feel the AbS was inadequate vs others?

Cost me $1500 and I knew the painter

Posted

It was somewhat of a soft pull. I think it was made during KB’s “gotta pull armor gotta get it shipped” phase but it’s not too bad. I made it work. 

 

My friend send me a video of the armor curing it’s clear coat. I should have the armor this week and start the strapping process and glue on the greeblies.  

 

 

Posted

hsaubPW.jpg

 

picked uo up most of the armor from the paint shop and it looked great there but I’m guessing as I brought it home I accidentally flexed this piece and it cracked the clear/paint.  

 

 Thinking I might want to glue more plastic behind this and make it more rigid? Suggestions? 

Posted

Did it crack the paint or is that sink back, if the join lines had been filled thinners can eat in when it is drying.

 

For strength and support I added 2 long rectangle pieces of ABS to mine before filling and painting, it has held up without an issue so far.

 

(shame photobucket logo covers the image)

tfa31.jpg

 

 

Posted

I did do that but not with a full length on the top portion.  

 

It’s nkt from shrinking, it’s totally from flexing the chest piece.  

 

 

This also also gives me an opportunity to cut oout out the inside of the part. 

Posted (edited)

JE3D6mr.jpg

 

filled the back side with DEVCON and filed out the perimeter to remove any filler and filled the perimeter with devcon and leveled it out.  

 

It isnt fulled cured yet but it’s a lot more rigid and will not flex like it did before. 

 

 

My friend really did some top notch painting. You can see the bare plastic, primer, white, and then clear on top.

 

im also revisiting removing the excess

material inside the wedge so it’s more correct.  

 

I think I mentioned it at the start but the way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. 

Edited by TheDon
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Working on final assembly and strapping the armor. 

 

Few issues 

 

the chest plate top horns will not sit flat, I know with screen used armor it’s cake because it’s a flexible armor set but hard ABS doesn’t play nice.  I’m afraid I might have a small gap.  

 

Will probably go with magnets for the chest piece since Velcro is a pain to line up

 

Shins need to be tightened up/ remove like 1.5” from the sides so they close tighter otherwise the spats do not fit. Also need to make the Velcro shelf for closing the shins so the overlap isn’t terrible.   

 

 

Need to see Velcro onto my fabric gaskets so I can stick the biceps on.  

 

I have KB’s V2 forearms and they seem

 chunky on my. Hoping gaskets and gloves fixes that.  Also hope to make the forearms removable so I can put my helmet on and off. 

 

 

 

Ran out of industrial Velcro...oh no.  This armor build is not easy. 

Edited by TheDon
Posted

TheSwede cut his forearms down, you could always reference his build thread if you wanted them less chunky.

Posted

I ended up using nylon straps and snaps at where the chest plate and yoke meet at the top to keep them together. Velcro was not making enough contact.

Posted (edited)

I might go with magnets to hold on the chest piece. I might end up with the horns still sticking up slightly but hopefully not as bad as it is now. 

 

I already sketched out my back closure using magnets to close it. Just need to 3D print the tabs.  

 

Do you have a photo photo or two of your method? 

Edited by TheDon
Posted

Don't have one handy, unfortunately. It was just snap plates on the yoke, snap plates on the chest plate, then one strap per side attaching them together. Getting the second one attached can be a little difficult but once it's secured, it's not going anywhere. I originally tried elastic webbing but ultimately needed the rigidity of nylon straps.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Slowly running out of stuff to do. Belt is 90% finished. Ran out of long Chicago screws so I had to order more. 

 

Also worked on butt plate and cod mounting.  I need to trim my shins so they close tighter for the spats.  

 

Can’t believe I started October 2017 with this thing.  I fully understand why there aren’t many build threads on the FOTK

Posted

These are a lot more work than a standard OTTK build but great to see you've still kept going and almost nearing the end.

Posted

Belt is done. All boxes are mounted just need to get more snaps so I can mount the belt to the ab. 

 

Butt plate has it’s hanging mount as well.  

 

Cod is next but I ran out of snaps.  

 

Working on 3D printing hangers for the TD and I’ll use Velcro at the bottom to attach it to the kidney area.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I should probably do that. It’s such a pain to load photos from a phone. To this day I’ve never been on a forum that has made it easy.  

 

I plan on working more Thursday and will take photos just for you 

  • Like 1
Posted
I should probably do that. It’s such a pain to load photos from a phone.


If you use Tapatalk you can add pics easily from your phone. Definitely worth a look if you don’t have it already


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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