Blaster Master E-11 Build (With Pics)

[SgtGarand[TK]]

I got my blaster kit today and thought I'd share it's progress during the build. Will try my best considering my work schedule, but I'm sure it won't take me too long since I'll need it to eventually go for Centurion.

 

I'm not sure if he has a website for the kits, other than eBay. But you can check out his demo video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJbuJFXcrrM&t=14s

The online instructions for the building of this kit is found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/UBER BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0

 

For tools, I have pliers, exacto knife, metal needle files, gorilla brand super glue, and varying grits of sandpaper.

 

I first looked over everything once I got it back home and out of the box. The receiver section isn't shown because i had already started the assembly before thinking of taking pictures. lol

 

 

The two sections joined and the supports in the bolt channel removed and sanded down.

 

While i waited for the glue time to dry, I spent some time on some parts in the next steps. Cleaned up the mag well and release button and set them aside for now.

 

I then started to clean up the other barrel section, making sure i hit the inside areas the best i could. Since I am going to include the electronics I needed to sand out the inside of the barrel itself so the LED assembly can be installed inside as easily as possible. Testing with the LED holders until they slide through completely.

 

 

 

Before attaching the barrel section, I noticed the tab had broken off during shipping. It was an easy fix to glue back in place before joining the two parts together. Sitting them to the side to let the glue dry before removing the tabs with pliers and an exacto knife. For me the pliers worked well enough on their own and the knife was used to scrape off any excess glue or plastic bits from the tabs and from the 3D printing.

 

 

 

Give it a quick sanding to smooth out the edges from joining the sections together and to begin smoothing out the surface the best I can. I never worked with 3D printed items before but it definitely requires a lot of sanding for each part to get a somewhat smooth and uniform surface. I will most likely do the best I can and hit it with a coat of primer before paint to hopefully fill in some of the imperfections of the surface.

 

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Well after I posted I decided to switch over to the electronics. Took a few hours to do as I tried to follow along with the videos and make sure I didn't mess anything up.

Thankfully everything worked as it was suppose to.

 

Pew

 

Set to stun

 

 

Back to the build. I started today by cleaning up the holes in the barrel shroud. Some of them came out oddly shaped from the printing so unless I made them even larger it was impossible to get them perfectly round. I started sanding by hand but wrapping some sanding paper around a drill bit made quick work of what was turning into a tedious process.

 

 

I installed the magazine well onto the side of the receiver then moved onto the magazine itself. The magazine latch assembled pretty easily. I made sure to reinforce the inside since you're bending the plastic when you install or remove it from the well. It snaps in quite securely which is nice.

 

 

 

Moving onto the sights; I ran into a bit of a mishap when the front cover broke in two while removed the plastic filler. I sanded down all the parts before gluing them back together.

 

 

The front sight post is an easy enough piece to glue on. The instructions mention using a dremel to cut a groove in the bottom sides to match the actual prop. Since I dont have a dremel i used my exacto and some files to get the same affect.

 

 

I placed some sandpaper against the shroud and slowly sanded the sight cover to create the same curve for a smoother fit before gluing in place.

 

 

 

The rear sight was also a rather easy assembly. Much of the time spent on each step is sanding and getting the plastic as smooth as possible.  When removing the filler from the bottom its easy to mistake the small post as part of the plastic to remove. This is needed when gluing on top of the receiver.

 

 

Having the file set really is coming in handy and made it nice and easy to clean up the grooves and make the edges look more crisp. The flip sight needed to be sanded down quite a bit in order to fit. I made sure to align the edges with the small circles on each side; normally where a pin or screw would be to allow you to flip between the two sight apertures.

 

 

As I glued it into place i made sure to try and align it with the front sight before the glue set. Usually only giving me a few seconds at most before it wants to stay in place.

 

 

Sanded down the two guards and the small post on the opposite side and installed those in place. For the guards I used the same technique to sand the mating surface to the same curve of the receiver/barrel before I glued in place. Gives a nice, flush finish.

 

 

I gathered up the next handful of parts to begin sanding: end cap and ring, release clip, bolt, and muzzle tip.

 

 

 

 

The end caps took quite a bit of work. The notch in the receiver end was much smaller than the one on the ring. My flat file was pretty close to a perfect match and made it easy to measure when the notch was the size it needed to be. It still took some fine tuning to get the ring to fit onto the end. I managed to get it to a snug fit before gluing in place.

 

 

 

 

I also filed down some of the material in the "J" sections which are used to lock on the end cap. I wanted to give the tabs more plastic to catch on since it will be under heavier spring pressure when pulling the bolt back. Mostly when showing off how cool your blaster is. 

Once the glue had dried for the ring, I installed the clip on the small flat cut out, making sure it was straight before the glue set.

 

 

The bolt was a bit tricky to fit in place as well. The two "rails" inside the receiver are a bit of a pain to reach once you glue the sections together. In hindsight I should have sanded it all down first. Oh well. I still managed to roll up some sand paper and get my fingers in the cut outs and sand along the inner areas. Sanding along the back side of the bolt was also needed. Once it could slide in place I dropped the spring in behind it.

 

 

Gave the inside of the cap a quick sand to remove the small bits of excess plastic and smooth the surface. Slide on and then turn to install. The spring pushes it back into the hooked area.

 

 

 

Since I already test fitted the LEDs, I next installed the muzzle tip. Using a round file to open the holes on the back side, until they matched the ones in the cover. This is to make it easier to install the two hex screws. (after paint)

 

 

 

Edited September 9, 2017 by SgtGarand

[ToniML[TK]]

Well after I posted I decided to switch over to the electronics. Took a few hours to do as I tried to follow along with the videos and make sure I didn't mess anything up.
Thankfully everything worked as it was suppose to.
 
Pew

 
Set to stun

 
 
Back to the build. I started today by cleaning up the holes in the barrel shroud. Some of them came out oddly shaped from the printing so unless I made them even larger it was impossible to get them perfectly round. I started sanding by hand but wrapping some sanding paper around a drill bit made quick work of what was turning into a tedious process.
 

 
I installed the magazine well onto the side of the receiver then moved onto the magazine itself. The magazine latch assembled pretty easily. I made sure to reinforce the inside since you're bending the plastic when you install or remove it from the well. It snaps in quite securely which is nice.
 

 

 
Moving onto the sights; I ran into a bit of a mishap when the front cover broke in two while removed the plastic filler. I sanded down all the parts before gluing them back together.
 

 
The front sight post is an easy enough piece to glue on. The instructions mention using a dremel to cut a groove in the bottom sides to match the actual prop. Since I dont have a dremel i used my exacto and some files to get the same affect.
 

 
I placed some sandpaper against the shroud and slowly sanded the sight cover to create the same curve for a smoother fit before gluing in place.
 

 

 
The rear sight was also a rather easy assembly. Much of the time spent on each step is sanding and getting the plastic as smooth as possible.  When removing the filler from the bottom its easy to mistake the small post as part of the plastic to remove. This is needed when gluing on top of the receiver.
 

 
Having the file set really is coming in handy and made it nice and easy to clean up the grooves and make the edges look more crisp. The flip sight needed to be sanded down quite a bit in order to fit. I made sure to align the edges with the small circles on each side; normally where a pin or screw would be to allow you to flip between the two sight apertures.
 

 
As I glued it into place i made sure to try and align it with the front sight before the glue set. Usually only giving me a few seconds at most before it wants to stay in place.
 

 
Sanded down the two guards and the small post on the opposite side and installed those in place. For the guards I used the same technique to sand the mating surface to the same curve of the receiver/barrel before I glued in place. Gives a nice, flush finish.
 

 
I gathered up the next handful of parts to begin sanding: end cap and ring, release clip, bolt, and muzzle tip.
 

 

 

 
The end caps took quite a bit of work. The notch in the receiver end was much smaller than the one on the ring. My flat file was pretty close to a perfect match and made it easy to measure when the notch was the size it needed to be. It still took some fine tuning to get the ring to fit onto the end. I managed to get it to a snug fit before gluing in place.
 

 

 

 
I also filed down some of the material in the "J" sections which are used to lock on the end cap. I wanted to give the tabs more plastic to catch on since it will be under heavier spring pressure when pulling the bolt back. Mostly when showing off how cool your blaster is. 
Once the glue had dried for the ring, I installed the clip on the small flat cut out, making sure it was straight before the glue set.
 

 
The bolt was a bit tricky to fit in place as well. The two "rails" inside the receiver are a bit of a pain to reach once you glue the sections together. In hindsight I should have sanded it all down first. Oh well. I still managed to roll up some sand paper and get my fingers in the cut outs and sand along the inner areas. Sanding along the back side of the bolt was also needed. Once it could slide in place I dropped the spring in behind it.
 

 
Gave the inside of the cap a quick sand to remove the small bits of excess plastic and smooth the surface. Slide on and then turn to install. The spring pushes it back into the hooked area.
 

 

 
Since I already test fitted the LEDs, I next installed the muzzle tip. Using a round file to open the holes on the back side, until they matched the ones in the cover. This is to make it easier to install the two hex screws. (after paint)
 

 

 

Good kit, who and where did you buy this kit?
I'ts a very good kit!
How much is it?


Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 4 mediante Tapatalk

[SgtGarand[TK]]

All the info can be found at the top. I purchased the kit from Raymond through his eBay store.

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Progress has been slower during the week due to work, but I've still worked on it little by little each day.

The d-ring assembly is easy and I didn't experience any problems with it.

 

 

Filled in several gaps with the modeling putty, then installed the d-ring assembly

 

Quick coat of primer

 

My next set of parts was for the folding stock. I didn't think to take photos of them during the sanding and assembly of the stock pieces, but it only required some slight sanding to fit. Filled in gaps with putty, then primed and sanded smooth again.

 

 

The parts got a wash and then painted the next day once they were dry. I gave several light coats, letting each coat dry before applying another.

 

 

The list of remaining parts is getting smaller now. Sanding down the scope parts, trigger group, pistol grip, and power cells. The grip and scope parts didn't give me any issues.

 

 

 

 

 

Printed out the scope reticles provided in the instructions, then laminated them.

 

 

When sanding down the two halves of the trigger group, the two small plastic posts broke. The ones within the lettering for the selector switch. unable to find the pieces themselves, I made new ones using a toothpick of all things. sanding down the post to shape, cutting off a piece, then gluing in place. Once dry I sanded it down flush. I chose not to use primer so the lettering wouldn't be filled in and decided to go straight for paint after cleaning the parts to remove any remaining dust. I also opted to carve/sand out the recess for the selector switch. I will also paint that area silver, as per instructions and reference pics.

 

 

Next up was the power cells. These are the last parts needed to be glued to the main body before I can paint it. These were trickier to sand smooth. I had to make use of the files to get into some of the tighter spaces, but didn't spend too much time on those areas since they won't be seen. For the caps, I had one of the posts break off, again, as soon as i used my exacto to trim off some excess plastic. The small piece was quickly lost in time and space; so I made a new one using the same toothpick as before. Once it was dry and sanded how I wanted it, it got a coat of primer and another light sanding.

 

 

 

 

Removed any primer from the area on the magazine well and then glued on the power cells. The instructions are unclear to an exact location so I used difference reference pictures to put it in a general area. Not letting the 'support beam' edge hang over, keeping distance from the main body so it doesn't interfere with the scope rail, and still allow access to the magazine release pin/button.

 

 

 

Assembly of the Hengstler counter

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final parts added and hit with some paint before spraying

 

Edited September 24, 2017 by SgtGarand

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Been busy with work and haven't been able to post any updates.  Now in the painting and weathering stage for many of the parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hand brushed the harder to reach areas

 

 

Had some mesh to add

 

 

First coats

 

 

 

Stock assembled

 

 

 

 

Scope glued onto the rail

 

 

Edited September 24, 2017 by SgtGarand

[pwhitrow]

Great work bud. If you wanted to add a working display to your scope I may be able to help you out. Here's a look at the kit:

 

https://facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1753662984673706&id=964476920258987

 

 

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Thanks! I'm slowly getting closer to the end. Finished sanding the counter pieces and assembling the unit. Just need to paint remaining small parts and give it a clear coat.

 

I tried to click the link but tells me the page is not available

[pwhitrow]

Thanks! I'm slowly getting closer to the end. Finished sanding the counter pieces and assembling the unit. Just need to paint remaining small parts and give it a clear coat.
 
I tried to click the link but tells me the page is not available

Oh that's odd. You can go to the main page facebook.com/trooperamp and look at the recent posts bud, it's about 3 down I think.

[SgtGarand[TK]]

That's actually pretty neat. Unfortunately I'd have to pull it off the rail and break my scope apart if I were to get one.

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Home stretch and completion post!

 

Starting with the fit of the electronic components

 

 

 

Battery fit test

 

Once everything fit, the trigger group was glued in place. I started gluing on the t-tracks that I painted with a rubberized undercoat paint.

 

The pistol grip soon followed. I'm using a 2 part plastic epoxy for these parts since it will support the rest of the blaster and will need to hold up to the use.

 

While i sat the body aside, I began to work on the counter and rail mounts. First attaching the mounts to the rail and then glued on the counter.

 

 

After attaching the rail to the body, I began fitting the coils. Instead of using the supplied plastic coils, I had some wire from my chainmail project that was the same thickness and already coiled. Took a bit of time to bend the ends to shape but overall a secure enough fit that I decided not to use glue. Added on a few layers of paint and done.

 

 

Glued the hex screws in place and weathered

 

Finally I attached the stock and completed the build.

 

 

(will add numbers when I can get a TK number)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stormy3D]

Good job! It looks great!

[Dracotrooper]

Home stretch and completion post!
 
... Once everything fit, the trigger group was glued in place. I started gluing on the t-tracks that I painted with a rubberized undercoat paint.


 
The pistol grip soon followed. I'm using a 2 part plastic epoxy for these parts since it will support the rest of the blaster and will need to hold up to the use.



 ...

Superb work on your blaster, well done. Electronics to boot as well, always a nice touch to take it to that level. I am curious to know what rubberized undercoat paint you used for the T- tracks as it will be helpful for me when I get to that part of my doopy build. Also, if you don't mind sharing, the two part plastic epoxy used for the pistol grip. Cheers, and congrats once again!

[SgtGarand[TK]]

Thanks!

For the tracks I used a Rustoleum brand undercoating. And I forget the exact epoxy brand. Just found one that was for plastic. E6000 could have worked too if I had some at the time.

[Dracotrooper]

2 hours ago, SgtGarand said:

Thanks!

For the tracks I used a Rustoleum brand undercoating. And I forget the exact epoxy brand. Just found one that was for plastic. E6000 could have worked too if I had some at the time.

Great! Thanks for that tid-bit of information, every little helps. I'll stick with E-6000 as I already have that. As I've gained momentum on researching paints, I've come to conclude as well that Rustoleum is a good brand. Now you've further confirmed it, cheers!

[762s[501st]]

thanks for tut ... im looking to get one of these kits

[wook1138[TK]]

Nice!  I really like how the paint job worked out.  Can I ask what paint you used and how you did your weathering?

[SgtGarand[TK]]

I used a rustoleum brand spray paint. i chose to go with a satin finish overall to keep with a metallic look and then for weathering i used a silver model paint (such as Testors) with a dry brushing technique, except for areas i wanted to show more wear. 

[Miras[TK]]

Interesting, is it possible to insert this electronic sistem  in doopydoos blaster?

[Grand Design]

Can this blaster still be bought ? 

 

[giskard8[Staff]]

On 10/20/2019 at 12:33 PM, Grand Design said:

Can this blaster still be bought ? 

 

Ray released his model on thingiverse before he retired. I think it is still there.

 

If you have a printer or able to find someone to do a print for you.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 24, 2019 by giskard8

[giskard8[Staff]]

Ray's model on thingiverse

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:957801

 

 

[Mole]

I downloaded the files to print, and am so glad there's instructions up. 

Now I have to find a schematic/parts list for the electronics, if anyone has these or something similar, I'd appreciate it.

[jenmcnitt[501st]]

On 5/7/2020 at 5:41 PM, Mole said:

I downloaded the files to print, and am so glad there's instructions up. 

Now I have to find a schematic/parts list for the electronics, if anyone has these or something similar, I'd appreciate it.

 

Did you ever figure this out?  I purchased the electronic's kit from Ray before he retired along with his ROTJ blaster kit but never was able to finish it.   I may be able to provide the electronics kit if it is something you still need.

Edited January 12, 2021 by jenmcnitt

[kenjancef]

On 1/11/2021 at 9:59 PM, jenmcnitt said:

 

Did you ever figure this out?  I purchased the electronic's kit from Ray before he retired along with his ROTJ blaster kit but never was able to finish it.   I may be able to provide the electronics kit if it is something you still need.

 

2 and a half years later, not sure if you may still have that electronics kit... long shot to ask, but figured I try. I got the Blaster-Master files from MyMiniFactory and I am close to halfway done the assembly. I REALLY would love to have the electronics in it, but I'm having a hard time finding something. Maybe you know of an alternate?