Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

[Bulldog44[TK]]

I was wrong about the scope rail hole. Just had a look at my blaster. I think I was able to insert a screw downward from the cocking handle track spacing. Also I did not have electronics like you have installed there so I also placed a screw at an angle upwards directly behind the spring for my trigger. Sorry not much help actually. 

[Dracotrooper]

9 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

I was wrong about the scope rail hole. Just had a look at my blaster. I think I was able to insert a screw downward from the cocking handle track spacing. Also I did not have electronics like you have installed there so I also placed a screw at an angle upwards directly behind the spring for my trigger. Sorry not much help actually. 

I figured you meant to say install happened via the charging handle track anyways, it's all good. This can allow for the screw head to sit flush against the inner tube, for pulling back of the bolt. Don't think I'll attempt to mimic a pull back bolt, but maybe! Glad the install of the 2nd screw worked for you. Thanks for following-up, cheers!

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

Duplicate post, please ignore

 

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

Hello again folks, another update coming your way. Focus this time on the selector lever and assembling the BlastFX mode button with acorn nut and accompanying washer.

 

I first dremeled to shape the turn knob on the rotary switch. With a square file to follow-up, I'm able to get it pretty clean.

 

 

I then progressed to shaping the underside of the selector lever as well. I would later pat down the edges of the circle with green stuff to make it extra snug. At a later stage, when I get to painting, I will finally glue this piece tight using CA glue.

 

 

I then proceeded to carve out resin so to make way for installing the BlastFX mode switch. I figured I could follow along the bottom of the ridge (see picture) to keep my mod inconspicuous. I took out my trusty dremel bit (this is a must have attachment as there's teeth on the top as well to push resin away along with sweeping it from side to side) and was careful to stay under the concave part of that upper grip part, and it worked! On test fitting the mode switch, I decided to drill pretty deep into the circle and the channel ran pretty deep too, so not to have the final button protrude too much and to minimize the curving of electrical wiring - the ideal was to simply plop the electronics in with little resistance.

 

 

 

 

Lastly, I made the acorn washer have a wider inner circle to fit the acorn nut from underneath. Also drilled deeper into the underside of the acorn nut using a 1/8" drill bit  - it now sits much deeper overtop the BlastFX mode button. I decided to also dremel away some of the the BlastFX Mode button so the acorn button / washer will sit more recessed in the circle cavity. Will do that soon...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just test fitted for now ...  Have to recess the whole thing in cavity, thinking to use hot glue.

 

 

That's it for now fellow builders - until the next update, have a great day!!!

Edited June 13, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Coming on nicely. :-)

[T-Jay[TK]]

That is the perfect place for that little mode button. Can't think of anywhere better.

Hot glue will surely do the job. Just make sure to install the knob deep enough to avoid inadvertently pushing it, while holding the blaster.

[Dracotrooper]

9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Coming on nicely. :-)

 

2 hours ago, T-Jay said:

That is the perfect place for that little mode button. Can't think of anywhere better.

Hot glue will surely do the job. Just make sure to install the knob deep enough to avoid inadvertently pushing it, while holding the blaster.

 

Thanks a bunch fellas! It's been satisfying to make progress like this as I've been on the planning stage for quite some time.

 

I know right Tino! I gleaned this idea from another trooper here on FISD - his logic of switching between blaster bolt and stun with the flock of the thumb on the grip, such a great idea! Totally, will see to have the button recessed well enough ... end transmission "click"

[Dracotrooper]

Hi again, more progress today!

 

Dremeled away a cavity to hold the BlastFX rumble motor. I was careful not to make it too wide nor too narrow for the rumble motion to go about the space it needed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I kept the cavity as close to the top of my hand as possible on the grip so i will feel it more when holding it. Testing it feels right. I again created a channel for the wires to run along.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trigger lever still needs to be installed.

 

 

 

 

Also, I'm getting ready to dremel the receiver. I have the hatch pattern sketched in, which is my area to dremel out. You'll see also I will dremel out a hole for the magazine housing too.

 

 

 

Thanks for taking ths time to read!

Edited June 15, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[Dracotrooper]

Just saw something in my posted pictures, can someone tell me if following my grip install plan as shown in the pictures will have my grip installed too close to the folding stock hinge part? I seem to recall a certain gap is needed...

[T-Jay[TK]]

That's correct. There should be a small gap between the rear end of the grip and the hinge from the folding stock. About 2 or 3 mm should be fine.

[Dracotrooper]

Today's 20 minute sprint is dremel out resin for housing the trigger lever....its in the right position horizontally. Need to still adjust vertically by keeping the trigger at maximum throw position. Armorture wire will be used to keep trigger lever component in place using CA glue. Will use a 1/16" drill bit to make the holes for the wires.

 

P.s. I think I'm good now for the grip position relative to the folding stock hinge.

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue.

 

In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away.

 

It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!!

 

Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

Hello everybody, more updates ...

 

I gathered up the courage to carve into the receiver tube today. I carved out only enough to make the grip and magazine housing sit flush on the tube. This way, there's more surface area for glue. In dremeling out the resin I would hit the inner black hard plastic. I felt it to be pretty malleable so not too bad to take away. It was really encouraging to see the individual parts fitted together - resembling a blaster!!! Still keeping to safety on the project: respirator, protective glasses, vacuum, and ear plugs. Wanna stay healthy by the end of it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, I decided to undo some mods for my magazine housing - now have it hallowed through!

Though I originally decided to stop short of hollowing and install magnets to keep the magazine in place, decided to install my Lipo battery in the housing instead so simply removing the magazine would reveal the battery to access charging.

 

It took some undoing to get the magnets out but finally did it. For the magazine, still managed for keeping the magazine roller spring but cut the spring short and installed a platform inside the magazine to hold the base. Pretty happy to retain this mod.

 

Oh.....and one other CRAZY thing I managed to pull off - dremeled out the exposed bolt! I needed to do so to install the BlastFX mother board and also allow me to I stall the LED and speakers good. I tried my best to retain the bolt as I had already modified it ... I will see how much I need to redo with green stuff. Now, I mind as well redo the extractor and plunger.

 

Also did a test install of my trigger lever component- at a later stage, will have to add CA glue to secure the armature wire holding the component in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

 

Edited June 21, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[Bulldog44[TK]]

The rumble motor is going to be killer. Love that and wish my blaster had it. So many great photos of your work and lots of ideas for a future blaster build. Thanks Jesse for keeping this build epic. Inspiring work for many other troopers to follow. Insert other media

[Dracotrooper]

The rumble motor is going to be killer. Love that and wish my blaster had it. So many great photos of your work and lots of ideas for a future blaster build. Thanks Jesse for keeping this build epic. Inspiring work for many other troopers to follow. Insert other media

Hey Brian! Thanks for dropping by Totally... Paul's BlastFX is great for having that rumble motor feature.

It's been a long haul, but I am seeing glimmers of light at the end of the tunnel. As its recommended to focus on SMG ahead of prop master additions for painting - aiming for finishing assembling SMG components first ... This taking time as the electronics are interwoven to it. I know I'll get to this build goal...with the warmer weather here (wrinkle plus has temperature requirements to work good) and a handful of the right paints ready to go, want to push hard for completing the SMG part of the blaster.

And thanks also for cheering me on! Will keep to task for sure!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

[Dracotrooper]

Now I focus on some of the smaller component parts that get attached to the receiver tube.

 

 I reinforced the pieces, front and rear sight, flash guard and other guard with armature wire and also trying to figure out the install location of the end clip.

 

 

 

 

Can someone tell me the correct position for the end clip? I seem to recall there's a video showing how it works....can someone point me to it? In a nut shell, pressing down on the back end of the end clip will raise the 'T' portion to allow for the end cap to rotate for removal...is that correct in terms of functionality?

 

 

Also, I am curious, based on the malleable nature of armature wire; is there any concern that CA glue applied to it will 'eat into' the armorture wire and compromise it's integrity? Especially concerned as I have armature wire that keep the trigger lever component in the right place and orientation...if it were to be compromised, the trigger lever will not operate the electronics, a real bummer I want to curve any chance of happening.

 

 

Thanks for taking the time; have a great day!

Edited June 21, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[T-Jay[TK]]

Again great progress, Jesse. I am really curious to see, what you will be doing with the inner bolt section...

40 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   I seem to recall there's a video showing how it works....can someone point me to it?   (...)

Guessing you meant this video from Aaron, or the one from myself.

 

I know I said this before Jesse, but this build is absolutely outstanding - from each and every aspect! Keep that up.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Tino beat me to it. https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

The end cap clip should only engage when the cap is pushed in. When the spring is pushing it back and into position the pin in the clip should NOT be engaged and will be clear.  How you have it looks about right but double check some reference.

 

If you have it engaged when the spring is pushing it away, like I do as I only realised after I'd painted it, when you push the cap in to turn it it will rub on the U section and remove the paint.  Also it's not how the real ones where.

[Dracotrooper]

11 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Again great progress, Jesse. I am really curious to see, what you will be doing with the inner bolt section... Guessing you meant this video from Aaron, or the one from myself.

I know I said this before Jesse, but this build is absolutely outstanding - from each and every aspect! Keep that up.

 

Thanks Tino for the encouraging words! I will keep at it!  I am pretty elated about taking out the exposed bolt. Funny to see the resin and black plastic rectangle pieces just fall out. I now have an exposed bolt piece acting as a cover to the inner tube? We will see... Thanks for the video links!

 

11 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Tino beat me to it. https://youtu.be/CYVmP_k9rIw

 

Cheers Brian!

 

11 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

The end cap clip should only engage when the cap is pushed in. When the spring is pushing it back and into position the pin in the clip should NOT be engaged and will be clear.  How you have it looks about right but double check some reference. If you have it engaged when the spring is pushing it away, like I do as I only realised after I'd painted it, when you push the cap in to turn it it will rub on the U section and remove the paint.  Also it's not how the real ones where.

 

Roger that Chris, excellent description on the do's and don'ts for the end cap clip. Thanks for sharing your experience; most helpful

[Dracotrooper]

Hello everybody,

 

I have a brief update. I believe now, in comparing the position of my clip with T-Jay and Aaron's (FISD) positions in their respective videos, that mines in the right spot.

 

 

I now have understanding on how the end cap clip works to engage the end cap for removal of it, I proceeded to figure out how to best install it. Since I had limited height when it came to depressing the end cap clip lever, I decided to add green stuff to the receiver tube to elevate the clip. So this way, when rotating the end cap, it would be clear of the lever head of the clip.

 

 

I also noticed allot of excess resin in and around the end of the receiver tube. I cleaned some up then went to dremel out the three notches that hold the tabs found on the inside of the cap - this to secure the end cap in place I'm sure.

 

 

 

Finally, I'm at a point where I try to fit all the BlastFX wiring inside the blaster. Task proved difficult. Will do better at wire management.

 

 

Thanks a bunch again for reading!

Edited June 21, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[Dracotrooper]

Hi everybody,

 

I had a scenario last night that could have made me very discouraged but I've stayed on top! While taking away BlastFX from my doopydoos blaster having done a test fit, I accidently ripped one of the wires to my on/off switch! By this time, I've already soldered four wires to my selector switch ... so I was able to keep my cool. With careful attention to detail and keeping it cool, I did a decent solder job with heat shrink tubing to boot! Really happy how I was able to recover from this mishap. So glad I made my soldering station with all the supplies in tow and ready to go! I was back in the race before I knew it.

 

 

 

In having flushed out the notches on the end cap part of things, I decided to continue with the detailing by creating the buttplate spring plate as seen from the folding stock handle. I used styrene plastic via score and snap method. Will use E-6000 to glue.

 

 

 

cheers!

[pwhitrow]

Really impressed with the work you're doing here dude, great job.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Lovin the added detail inside the folding stock window. Going that extra mile!

[Dracotrooper]

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:29 AM, pwhitrow said:

Really impressed with the work you're doing here dude, great job.

 

18 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Lovin the added detail inside the folding stock window. Going that extra mile!

 

I'm trying my best Paul and Brian - thanks guys