Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

[Dracotrooper]

Hi all,

 

Quick update here - Super excited to have received my BlastFX - Essentially my electronic module that will enable sound, lights and rumble action to my Blaster! I am a proud owner of one as it is compact and meets my every need. Paul is a great guy to deal with and always at the ready to answer any questions you may have. I actually received it a while back but did a terrible blunder; I short circuited the module and likely burnt out the speaker rendering the module without sound. As he provides battery hook-up instructions, I recommend heeding to the direction provided closely. I ended up commissioning him for my battery and switch install as I proved myself a novice blundering the way I did. Paul was very accommodating and got me on my way with a fully operational BlastFX in record speed! Furthermore, it comes standard with a good amount of wiring which comes in handy during the installation stage; I don't forsee any significant challenges when I get to this step.

 

As for my battery source; I chose the recommended Li-Po type and choose out at 3.7 volts. It is recharged via USB charger and attaches / detaches via JST 2 Connector. Mine will take upwards of 2 to 2-1/2 hours to fully charge from zero.

 

As for what I think if it; superb. It's compact, loaded with features, lights are bright enough(red for blaster bolt/ blue for stun), and sound quality is good. The Stun mode is very vivid sounding; likely to give you goosebumps as it gave me. Rifling through options in blaster types and displays gives you control over how you particularly want to operate it - great fun! Oh, there's also a 'soon to run out of ammo' sound and a 'out of ammo' sound as well during operation, which plays to kind of the realism of the whole thing. Oh yeah, and there's a mute operation as well which reveals lights only at trigger pull, which may come in handy based on the scope of a given troop.

 

Apart from a slight electrical hum when the module is turned on, I give it two thumbs up! I did attempt to channel the possible electronic hobbyist in me over the course of three months by doing a ton of research into Arduino Boards / Sound Boards and electrical know-how on experimenting with bread boards etc. but honestly concluded it was too much time/energy/money overhead for me for even to get anything working so I went with the quick and easy route of getting this ready-to-install module and I am not regretting it one bit. Again, given that it's compact and loaded with features, it's one of my treasured components for my e-11 build.

 

 

TRamp BlastFX enabling light, sound and rumble for install into doopydoos resin e-11 blaster

 

 

BlastFX main processor (arduino / sound board) with micro SD card at 128 MB. JST 2 battery connector of choice shown

 

 

Display, LED light, speaker and rumble motor

 

 

On / Off switch and trigger along with mode button

 

 

Battery of choice - Li-Po at 3.7 volts 1200 mAh current capacity

 

 

Operational instructions

 

 

My test set-up before installation

 

 

 

cheers,

Jesse

 

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

The TRamp BlastFX seems like a good choice for your blaster. Thank you for sharing this product with us in such a detailed way.

Any chance to possibly (some day) get a little video clip of steps 2 to 6 from the instructions below? Really curious to see those changes in the display.

On 2.1.2018 at 12:28 PM, Dracotrooper said:

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

7 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

The TRamp BlastFX seems like a good choice for your blaster. Thank you for sharing this product with us in such a detailed way.

Any chance to possibly (some day) get a little video clip of steps 2 to 6 from the instructions below? Really curious to see those changes in the display.

 

 

Hi Tino,

 

Not sure if this video from Paul will give you your answers. :-)

 

 

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Perfect Dan Thanks for posting this link.

 

Looks like all sounds are stored on the 128 MB micro SD card. Anybody having an idea, if the sounds are customizable/interchangeable?

[Dracotrooper]

Perfect Dan Thanks for posting this link.

 

Looks like all sounds are stored on the 128 MB micro SD card. Anybody having an idea, if the sounds are customizable/interchangeable?

 

There’s a separate build community for those that have purchased BlastFX on Facebook with a total of 200 members to date. Here is a link to the Facebook group; I believe it is set to public for everyone to browse :

 

https://m.facebook.com/groups/1246759182092517

 

Hope the link works - perhaps an answer can be found there. I noticed also, as of Nov. 28, an ‘ancillary kit’ is available for purchase on shapeways, with trigger switch housing, and of great interest, a hollow hengstler counter - only thing is, no eagle logo but instead ‘blastfx’ on the side of it.

 

 

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[Dracotrooper]

Hi all

,

Yet another update installment coming your way. Magazine housing ejector is upgraded one last time; it bothered me that it was without the 'fin' on the lower end so I J-B Welded a thin aluminum sheet to keep it in place. Also had quick wins when it came to adding realism to my grip. Installed two screws that came with Tino's Completion Set. I am quite happy with the results. I'm really loving my workbench around now as it has enabled me to get working quickly to get these MODs down; an investment I am entirely happy to have done.

 

Back end of ejector now sufficiently detailed following SMG references - little triangle piece, which was knocked off before, is now reinforced with a thin aluminum sheet glued using J-B Weld.

 

 

Installed Upgraded ejector fin in magazine housing

 

 

Grip lower screw - study for replacement strategy

 

 

Using drill bit to take out resin screw top - round file to clean

 

 

With bolt head accommodated for, measure and use drill bit to make way for the screw installation

 

 

Allan wrench used to get screw into place - grip bottom screw installed

 

 

Comparison of resin and accurate screw installation.

 

 

 

Right side of grip and trigger housing

 

 

Grip lock and Tino completion set screw shortened as other side of grip lock will be used for BlastFX mode switch install

 

 

Dremeled away resin screw and drill bit applied to length of shortened screw, step drill used to recess to accommodate screw head

 

 

Grip lock installed with screw driver

 

 

Installed grip lock screw

 

 

Before and after pictures of screw to lock grip

 

 

Wish you all a fabulous rest of the week! cheers!!

 

Jesse

[Twnbrother]

nice work ...  your E-11 is looking good.

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Lovely work, Jesse. What’s left on your to-do list? :-)


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[Dracotrooper]

11 hours ago, Twnbrother said:

nice work ...  your E-11 is looking good.

 

Thanks Mike! Happy you're finally on the paint / assembly stage; must be so exciting

 

9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Lovely work, Jesse. What’s left on your to-do list? :-)

 

Hey there Dan, thanks so much  I will see to enable the trigger next, we'll see.

[pwhitrow]

Hi all,
 
Quick update here - Super excited to have received my BlastFX - Essentially my electronic module that will enable sound, lights and rumble action to my Blaster! I am a proud owner of one as it is compact and meets my every need. Paul is a great guy to deal with and always at the ready to answer any questions you may have. I actually received it a while back but did a terrible blunder; I short circuited the module and likely burnt out the speaker rendering the module without sound. As he provides battery hook-up instructions, I recommend heeding to the direction provided closely. I ended up commissioning him for my battery and switch install as I proved myself a novice blundering the way I did. Paul was very accommodating and got me on my way with a fully operational BlastFX in record speed! Furthermore, it comes standard with a good amount of wiring which comes in handy during the installation stage; I don't forsee any significant challenges when I get to this step.
 
As for my battery source; I chose the recommended Li-Po type and choose out at 3.7 volts. It is recharged via USB charger and attaches / detaches via JST 2 Connector. Mine will take upwards of 2 to 2-1/2 hours to fully charge from zero.
 
As for what I think if it; superb. It's compact, loaded with features, lights are bright enough(red for blaster bolt/ blue for stun), and sound quality is good. The Stun mode is very vivid sounding; likely to give you goosebumps as it gave me. Rifling through options in blaster types and displays gives you control over how you particularly want to operate it - great fun! Oh, there's also a 'soon to run out of ammo' sound and a 'out of ammo' sound as well during operation, which plays to kind of the realism of the whole thing. Oh yeah, and there's a mute operation as well which reveals lights only at trigger pull, which may come in handy based on the scope of a given troop.
 
Apart from a slight electrical hum when the module is turned on, I give it two thumbs up! I did attempt to channel the possible electronic hobbyist in me over the course of three months by doing a ton of research into Arduino Boards / Sound Boards and electrical know-how on experimenting with bread boards etc. but honestly concluded it was too much time/energy/money overhead for me for even to get anything working so I went with the quick and easy route of getting this ready-to-install module and I am not regretting it one bit. Again, given that it's compact and loaded with features, it's one of my treasured components for my e-11 build.
 

 
TRamp BlastFX enabling light, sound and rumble for install into doopydoos resin e-11 blaster
 

 
BlastFX main processor (arduino / sound board) with micro SD card at 128 MB. JST 2 battery connector of choice shown
 

 
Display, LED light, speaker and rumble motor
 

 
On / Off switch and trigger along with mode button
 

 
Battery of choice - Li-Po at 3.7 volts 1200 mAh current capacity
 

 
Operational instructions
 

 
My test set-up before installation
 

 

 
cheers,
Jesse
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Great write up Jesse, many thanks. If anyone wants to know more, please message from my page facebook.com/trooperamp

Best,

Paul

[Dracotrooper]

I’m trying the figure out how the trigger worked in the real sterling machine gun - I see that there’s a trigger plunger - does the spring action here provide the tension for the trigger? Would appreciate any insight, especially from those that are owners of decommissioned SMG...




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[Dracotrooper]

Hi everyone,

 

I roll-up my sleeves a little higher here as I gather understanding and attempt to modify my doopy trigger and trigger housing to follow that of the real thing. I ready green stuff to soon add to my doopydoos trigger and make way in the trigger housing for a future installation. I finish off with a light show of sorts; enable better light transfer for my BlastFX LED light to travel down the receiver tube. I use a 1/2 inch outer diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) to mimic the barrel following SMG references.

 

Trigger housing as seen from the top following SMG references. Interesting to see component parts out.

 

 

Here are some underside pictures of the trigger housing. The hole for the trigger goes all the way up and room to boot.

 

 

Really liked studying these pictures of the FISD E-11 blaster reference photo compendium. Here, you can see the casing that goes over-top the trigger housing taken out.

 

 

Here's a picture of Tino's replica trigger and SMG reference.

 

 

This here breathes light on how the trigger actually worked. I gather that the trigger maintained constant 'push' pressure from that bullet looking component, the trigger plunger and in pulling the trigger, compressed the spring on the back of it. I will attempt to mimic this action but after modifying the doopydoos trigger piece and doing a little carving into the trigger housing.

 

 

Use green stuff to add to doopy trigger to mold like the real thing following SMG references

 

 

Tino's Replica SMG trigger used to mold after.

 

 

Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation

 

 

 

To increase the light effects inside the barrel when invoking the electronics, will apply a half inch outer diameter with 3 / 8 inch inner diameter clear acrylic tube (plexiglass) over top the LED light. Frost it with 150 grit sandpaper.

 

 

Frosted acrylic tube; it is no longer clear and can carry light down the tube

 

 

Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with red colored blaster bolts from BlastFX

 

 

Test light effects of frosted acrylic tube with blue colored stun rays from BlastFX

 

 

Thank you for checking up on me once again; have a terrific day!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Superb! :-)


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[T-Jay[TK]]

Cannot wait to see your work to mimic the trigger group interior. You are scaring me, man. This is such an outstanding build.

[Twnbrother]

Amazing detail...  looking forward to seeing the BlastFX installed

[Dracotrooper]

On ‎1‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 3:05 AM, CableGuy said:

Superb! :-)

 

On ‎1‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 5:20 AM, T-Jay said:

Cannot wait to see your work to mimic the trigger group interior. You are scaring me, man. This is such an outstanding build.

 

5 hours ago, Twnbrother said:

Amazing detail...  looking forward to seeing the BlastFX installed

 

Thanks Dan, Tino and Mike - this is truly unchartered territory for me; with asking questions and figuring things out along the way, I may be able to put something together half-decent. Green stuff has cured; now to emulate the original trigger.

[Dracotrooper]

Greetings fellow SW enthusiasts!

 

This is my plan as I set out to install the electrical components of my build into the grip. There's a small handful of custom pieces like the trigger guard and trigger plunger and have modified the doopydoos trigger. Also will be using Tino's rotary switch that comes with his Completion Set. Although it would be neat and tidy to chop up the wiring of my already operational BlastFX to funnel wires and reconnect to minimize the amount of resin destruction, I chose to keep my wiring intact and will go about with some creative work with thin styrene plastic pieces and aluminum sheets. That's right, I am going to gut out channels and housing compartments and recess them as needed, then cover up with plastic then mold in with green stuff (pattern Knurling where necessary). I will then have two aluminum sheets, cut to shape of the trigger housing part and cover it as well as have the little odd shaped piece around the base area of the selector switch. Feeling a little apprehensive but with careful planning, I hope I can pull this off half decent. Cheers, and happy building!

 

[Dracotrooper]

I am seeking guidance from anyone whose prepared Tino’s rotary switch for installation. I am looking to install wires as well in case I want to get electronics going for it. How do I prepare the unit itself for install like where is the o ring that can or must be removed and also, how to understand what wires go where? Like positive and negative, I’m a bit of a dummy when it comes to electronics. Here is a build photo from Tino and how the underside of the switch looks like ...

 

 

 

Thanks for reading; any direction is appreciated

 

 

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[LTM[TK]]

Here is a listing for electronics using a rotary switch:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTS-SOUND-DIY-KIT-for-Blaster-Master-Uber-E-11-Blaster-Rifle-Model-/232102221992

 

This is a three part series where he shows you how to build it:

 

 

Not affiliated with him, but I have the kit and watched the videos. I also stayed at a holiday inn express (too old a reference?)

[Dracotrooper]

47 minutes ago, LTM said:

Here is a listing for electronics using a rotary switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTS-SOUND-DIY-KIT-for-Blaster-Master-Uber-E-11-Blaster-Rifle-Model-/232102221992

This is a three part series where he shows you how to build it: ...  Not affiliated with him, but I have the kit and watched the videos. I also stayed at a holiday inn express (too old a reference?)

 

 Thanks Lou for the pointing me to these videos! - Definitely worth viewing to get familiar with the process involved. Interested to see how he deals with the rotary switch, thanks again.

[Dracotrooper]

3 hours ago, LTM said:

Here is a listing for electronics using a rotary switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTS-SOUND-DIY-KIT-for-Blaster-Master-Uber-E-11-Blaster-Rifle-Model-/232102221992

This is a three part series where he shows you how to build it: ... Not affiliated with him, but I have the kit and watched the videos. I also stayed at a holiday inn express (too old a reference?)

 

It has already proved informative to check out the videos - fascinating to see how he installs the trigger switch, which is a much cleaner install than the method I thought of before. Decided to go about it this way (see graphic) Thanks again Lou.

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

HI all,

 

Here are some proof of concept pictures I have for the trigger components. I am really liking my custom trigger; after light sanding the aluminum, the rough edges are off and it feels pretty soft and the piece is sturdy. E-6000 worked great to adhere the metal, resin, and green stuff together. As for the trigger plunger, still want to tidy it up and deciding on how long to make its channel. I may have to pull the compression spring apart some to give the trigger some real pull action. Still brainstorming on how best to stabilize the trigger switch. Raymond (Blaster Master) pegs it, then hot glues it. Perhaps I can find tiny screws and do so that way? Nails? Thanks for reading although update only really a brainstorming session at best. If you have any ideas on how best to install / stabilize the various components, give me a shout, Have a terrific day!

 

[LTM[TK]]

You are going to be putting some force behind squeezing the trigger (gloves and excitement at trooping) so you want it to be robust. Not to mention letting a child play with it for a "sec" and them really pulling on the trigger. Figure out the max throw you want (in mine it is 1/4 inch) and set your forward spring to bottom out on something solid. You could even simplify and use a piece of bent metal (like the bottom of the tube retainer at the rear). Over time whatever you use will need to be replaced so keep that in mind as well. More I think about it why not use the top part of a clicker ball point pen?

Once you have the maximum throw, hot glue the switch in place where the contact is just made. This way you wont put any significant pressure on the switch. In mine the two small posts broke off, but the hot glue is more than strong enough to hold it. 

[Dracotrooper]

2 hours ago, LTM said:

You are going to be putting some force behind squeezing the trigger (gloves and excitement at trooping) so you want it to be robust. Not to mention letting a child play with it for a "sec" and them really pulling on the trigger. Figure out the max throw you want (in mine it is 1/4 inch) and set your forward spring to bottom out on something solid. You could even simplify and use a piece of bent metal (like the bottom of the tube retainer at the rear). Over time whatever you use will need to be replaced so keep that in mind as well. More I think about it why not use the top part of a clicker ball point pen?

Once you have the maximum throw, hot glue the switch in place where the contact is just made. This way you wont put any significant pressure on the switch. In mine the two small posts broke off, but the hot glue is more than strong enough to hold it. 

 

Absolutely, the trigger will be a well-worn part of the blaster; designing for maintenance around those inevitable tight trigger squeezes, for replacement etc. are smart moves. In reflecting on your pointers, I think I will do significant carving into the trigger housing and install a removable cover plate. This way, I can make sure alignment is there and access for future maintenance is there too.

 

Oooh, important. Will install the trigger switch while the trigger is at maximum throw, point taken - thanks again.

[Dracotrooper]

Hi all,

It's been quite the ride contemplating on the design / modification of my trigger group components, especially in light of getting ready to have BlastFX component parts installed. I ultimately decided on creating two-piece trigger housing cover made out of sheets of aluminum as this will give me freedom to carve into the housing to obtain positional and functional correctness. Having a removal cover also helps me maintain BlastFX component parts, like the trigger switch, as I hear from troopers that, that's a common part to replace as enthusiam during troops tend to bust this part bad. As for this modification update, I had finally modified my doopy trigger and created a custom spring piece to make the trigger operational. These are now installed and I am SO happy; sufficient trigger tension and position is good ( nowhere near touching the trigger guard) I had tried my best to make the trigger group like that of the real sterling machine gun. Although there are some scale and positional deviations, I am quite happy with the results.....check out my progress.

Part of Trigger housing hollowed to make way for trigger and trigger axis pin installation



Trigger housing hollowing for trigger assembly installation



Aluminum sheet cut to left side of trigger housing cover





Doopy trigger shaped with female tab using dremel



Doopy trigger female tab cleaned using square file



Trigger male end of tab cut to shape using hacksaw and hole drilled for trigger axis pin



Test assembly of modified doopy trigger



Replica SMG trigger versus modified doopy trigger



Trigger addition glued to doopy trigger after installing support pin



To further reinforce trigger pieces, it will be sandwiched between aluminium sheets cut to shape. E-6000 glue will be used to attach sheets. Where the trigger will contact the trigger plunger, an aluminum sheet is added to reduce friction at trigger pull





Preminary attempts at replicating the trigger plunger



E-6000 used for gluing aluminum sheets cut to shape to modified doopy trigger. Popsicle sticks used to evenly distribute pressure when clamping



Mark 2 Electronics Install Plan on Grip



Mock placement of trigger, trigger plunger and trigger switch on trigger housing



Mock trigger component placement versus install plan



Drilled out trigger axle pin in the housing for trigger installation



Modified doopy trigger versus resin replica and real trigger



Progression of doopy trigger modification



Various angle views of modified doopy trigger



Trigger pin hole created and an 8mm solid aluminum rod used as trigger pin - still need to cut to length



With rod in place, measure position of trigger at throw and at resting position



Trigger installed in housing with rod put through. Trigger at throw position; further carving needed to allow trigger to get to resting position



Trigger in throw position, inside and outside housing, compared to schematic of real thing



Custom trigger plunger options; weighing out pros and cons of each. Longer spring option needs to be shortened



Trigger hole carved at the front to make room for trigger to be in rest position



Trigger at rest position inside housing compared to SMG reference



Estimate positioning and installed trigger at rest and throw positions



Smaller trigger plunger option chosen to begin with and channel carved with Dremel tool



1/2 inch Chicago screw extension was cut for creating this trigger plunger head. It’s corners are filed to create bevel edge. Mock placement of it in channel



Inserted custom trigger plunger in channel - force now applied against trigger piece.



Custom trigger plunger head needed to be pushing the upper part of the trigger so a retainer cover was created from an aluminum sheet to keep the plunger from jumping out. Now there is sufficient rocking motion with adequate tension applied to trigger



Trigger plunger head positions at trigger pull and rest position



Trigger housing with modified trigger and custom trigger plunger installed - adequate trigger tension and positioning is obtained. Trigger does not touch trigger guard



Trigger plunger installed - with and without retainer



Trigger axle pin cut to length with cobalt hacksaw blade and lubricant to gather shards



Trigger components now complete, shy of the trigger switch, which will come in later





Three items checked off from trigger housing modification plan



Well, that's it for now; thanks for reading once again! Have a terrific day and happy building!


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