Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

[Pretzel]

This is by far one of the most detailed WIP E-11 Threads I have seen here on FISD. Now granted, I don't get to look through all TOPICS, but.. nonetheless.. Mighty Impressive work Jesse. 

[Dracotrooper]

Hi All,

 

I've made some more progress on the folding stock. I've spent sometime on figuring out how to represent the details of that perplexing piece of the folding stock - that vertical piece of the front pivot bushi. In studying pictures of the piece from a real SMG and looking at how the piece looks like installed; I've created a piece that mostly functions the same but only slightly resembles the real piece. I made it out of polymer clay reinforced by green stuff. The clay is baked at 425F for 14 minutes to get it hard, then applied green stuff to reinforce before shaping and test fit. I noticed later the angle on the vertical piece is too steep; I will need to file down slightly to get it more flush with other details.

 

 

Here's how that vertical piece looks like installed. I also put in the washers on either side of the front support pin on the folding stock. Pins also detailed as such to resemble installed rivets I believe.

 

 

 

Thanks for dropping by, have a great day!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Looking great, buddy.


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[tennantlim[501st]]

Here's a photo of that piece if it helps. 

[tennantlim[501st]]

On 10/11/2017 at 12:09 AM, Pretzel said:

This is by far one of the most detailed WIP E-11 Threads I have seen here on FISD. Now granted, I don't get to look through all TOPICS, but.. nonetheless.. Mighty Impressive work Jesse. 

Agree. His attention to details and craftsmanship are admirable. 

[Dracotrooper]

Here's a photo of that piece if it helps.

Agree. His attention to details and craftsmanship are admirable. 

Thanks so much for sharing your piece! It is a big help. Thanks also for the compliments; I have to say, I've gleaned much from those who have gone before me, appreciate it lots

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Cool. Your efforts to replicate each and every detail is paying off Jesse. Folding stock is looking great. 

[Dracotrooper]

14 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Cool. Your efforts to replicate each and every detail is paying off Jesse. Folding stock is looking great. 

Thanks Brian! Glad to hear the effort is paying off, cheers!

[Dracotrooper]

Hi all,

A miniscule of updates, but an update nonetheless. I followed up today with more modifications to the folding stock handle.

I applied my dremel tool to take away the resin rivets on either side of the handle.

 

 

Following, washers had their inner diameters widened by using a round file attached to my drill. This after learning that using a drill bit will just make the washers slip every which way even on Vise-Grips. I ended up mangling the washers quite a bit, even warping them. Heating them up using my heat gun and hammering them flat did the trick. I then glued them into place using E-6000. Hopefully, the mangled look will add to the battle-damaged look I will by going for during the paint phase.

 

 

I then countersunk the pin using a 3mm drill bit against the 5mm solid aluminum pin. This will help to give it that real rivet look. I may use 'blue tak'  as Brian suggested earlier to give a strong but not permanent hold of the pin against the handle. This may very well allow me to disassemble the guts of my folding stock so to get at the pencil, if I need to replace it, as I fear the latch may break  away from the wood due to constant use.

 

 

Haha, I think it looks alright!

 

 

Thanks for dropping by, have a great day!

Edited October 26, 2017 by Dracotrooper

[T-Jay[TK]]

Looking good so far, Jesse. The same procedure (except the washers) can be done to the other solid aluminum pin in the middle of the folding stock.

[Dracotrooper]

20 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Looking good so far, Jesse. The same procedure (except the washers) can be done to the other solid aluminum pin in the middle of the folding stock.

Thanks Tino for the praise and pointer, cheers

[ayen_s[TK]]

Dropping by to see your progress. Amazing work.

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[Dracotrooper]

On ‎10‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 12:07 AM, ayen_s said:

Dropping by to see your progress. Amazing work.

Thanks for dropping by! Compliment taken, I'll keep on the build, and thanks again!

[Dracotrooper]

Hello folks!

 

I've made more progress on the blaster this past week. I've modified the flash guard and ejector port guard as well as the rear sight.

 

The guards were thinned using a cylinder sanding drum on my dremel.

 

 

Here are the before and after shots of the flash guard and the ejector port guard.

 

 

 

After thinning them, I had their bottom part sanded flush against where they will be sitting by sanding them against the receiver tube.

 

 

 

I now proceed to the rear sight. Here it is original.

 

 

Lightly cleaned the 100 yard range using a 5 / 32 " drill bit.

 

 

I then proceeded to sand away the excess resin.

 

 

 

 

 

I finally have the rear sight sitting flush against the receiver tube.

 

 

After sanding, it is very noticeable the difference when viewing the sight piece from the back and front.

 

 

Here's a before and after picture of one end of the rear sight. The difference is pretty huge considering the piece came with excess resin to begin with.

 

 

Rear sight sitting pretty good.

 

 

I then proceeded to fashion the 5mm solid aluminum rod to act as the pin. I drilled through and countersunk it, then cut it to length to be a bit longer than the width of the rear sight walls.

 

 

 

I got a hold of a 3mm diameter solid brass rod and did the same with that but didn't countersink but left hollow to insert a tiny brass rod later.

 

 

Oh yeah, here are the dimensions of the rods.

 

 

Here's a close up of the main pieces that make up my rear sight pin.

 

 

Next, I would go and hollow out the resin rivets and do a test fit of my component pieces.

 

 

 

 

Here are the component pieces glued using JB Weld.

 

 

Here, you can see that I've revealed the crescent shape giving more definition to the rear sight. I'm happy to show that but if I were to follow exactly what they did on screen, I think I may have to screw in the scope rail over top of this detail. I also spent time sanding one end of the rear sight with a square file as there was excess resin there too.

 

 

 

Finally, I have armature wire that will be used to secure these and other parts together. Not sure if it will be secure enough though.

 

 

Few!! Quite a bit of work here; I need some rest but very happy how things have turned out. Again, thanks for dropping by - have a good day!

Edited November 3, 2017 by Dracotrooper

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Great work, Jesse. Loving the detail. :-)


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[Bulldog44[TK]]

The guards look great. Nice and thin as they should be. How they come is way too thick. Rear sight work looks great too. Metal parts give it that extra twinkle of realism. Keep on truckin!

[Dracotrooper]

8 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Great work, Jesse. Loving the detail. :-)

Thanks for the pat on the back, I'll keep it going

7 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

The guards look great. Nice and thin as they should be. How they come is way too thick. Rear sight work looks great too. Metal parts give it that extra twinkle of realism. Keep on truckin!

Yeah totally Brian on the guards - without looking at Tino's build thread, I wouldn't have realized. Rear sight bling also Tino inspired. What would we do without him!!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Got nothing to add, what has not already been said - except: it really is a pleasure to follow this thread. Great attention to details and posting style.

[Dracotrooper]

Hello everyone!

 

Today, I proceeded with the End Cap Clip. As Doopydoos comes with a static resin piece, I opted to mash together two separate sources. I used Suitecase Props T-piece along with Tino's aluminum u-channel from his completion set.

 

Here is the original piece

 

 

Here is the combo of the two separately sourced pieces.

 

 

 

Here are some comparison pictures:

 

 

 

I decided I wanted the u-channel a bit shorter so I took out my trusty Cobalt hacksaw blade and took off around 2mm. In my estimation, it now looked more proportional against the T-piece.

 

 

 

I also rounded off the edges of the u-channel following SMG references (FISD E-11 Blaster Reference: PDF Document Photo Compendium)

 

 

Here, I would then, following SMG references as well, imprint  knurling patterns using green stuff to the bottom of the T-piece.

 

 

Following, I would use a curved aluminum piece to lever the T-piece for press functionality. 1 /16 " drill bit used to create hole in aluminum piece and on T-piece. A nail was scavenged to get at its head for insert and keep the aluminum piece in place. Initial attempt using JB Weld was unsuccessful. Used Tino's powerful CA glue did the trick. This aluminum strip styled after SMG references as well.

 

 

 

 

I then proceeded to create the two support holes for the pin. Piloted using 1 / 16 " then to 5 / 64 " for the actual hole size.

 

 

Since I didn't not have a 5 / 64 " pin, I had to shave it down from the 1 / 8 " solid brass rod I had. I inserted the rod to my drill and held it up against my square file. For anyone attempting this, please use ear protection. I found it necessary to examine the filing process closely therefore, putting myself close to the drill motor.

 

 

Done! I will proceed to add a bit of E-6000 to keep the pin in place. I had thinned out the pin a tad too much. Also, if I ever have to disassemble, I can heat it and get the pin out.

 

 

 

Thanks for checking in once again! Have a terrific day!

Edited November 6, 2017 by Dracotrooper

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Impressive, as ever, Jesse. Looks superb. :-)


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[T-Jay[TK]]

Loving this mod! The rounded edges really make a big difference. And yes, the aluminum U-channels are rough cut and need some fine trimming. Good job, Jesse. You have taken the maximum out of this.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Knurling looks spot in. That was one of the hardest things to find that matched the original pattern but looks like you have the perfect item already in hand. End cap lock is a fun mod and when you finally install it and get to work with your end cap, its even better. 

The metal channel is flat on the bottom so to get a snugger fit on the main barrel tube, you can try the same technique you used to round out the rear sight base with some sandpaper or a metal file that has a rounded contour.

[Dracotrooper]

5 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Impressive, as ever, Jesse. Looks superb. :-)

Thanks a bunch Dan!

5 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Loving this mod! The rounded edges really make a big difference. And yes, the aluminum U-channels are rough cut and need some fine trimming. Good job, Jesse. You have taken the maximum out of this.

Hey thanks Tino! Again, how helpful the SMG reference have been Terrific to know, I'm on par with your estimations on the clip length.

1 hour ago, Bulldog44 said:

Knurling looks spot in. That was one of the hardest things to find that matched the original pattern but looks like you have the perfect item already in hand. End cap lock is a fun mod and when you finally install it and get to work with your end cap, its even better. 

The metal channel is flat on the bottom so to get a snugger fit on the main barrel tube, you can try the same technique you used to round out the rear sight base with some sandpaper or a metal file that has a rounded contour.

Yeah, I already had the anvil purchased for rivet installation. Totally, I'm in for a ride to see the clip work with other component parts. Nice heads up Brian, thanks! I didn't think that far, I have an episode of sanding coming my way

[Dracotrooper]

Good afternoon folks!

 

Today, I tackled the End Cap. In the onset, I thought this would be relatively simple to do but as I got going and checking with SMG references and deciding what I can do to better functionality. I ended up doing quite a bit.

 

Original End Cap

 

 

 

End Cap and Ring Holder with T-Jay D-Ring

 

 

 

For comparision, here's T-Jay's D-Ring and the one that's made by Doopydoos. T-Jay's is far superior.

 

 

Light cleaning of the small bottom hole of the end cap using 1 / 16 " drill bit. End cap sanded.

 

 

 

Here, although the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference showed guide lines placed on the end cap top to mark the center, I chose to turn the cap upside down and use the center hole provided. I created pilot hole using 1 / 16 " drill bit to mark the center point for carving out the shallow recess for which the ring retainer base will sit.

 

 

I precision measured the diameter of the underside of the ring holder recess. Will apply initially 7 / 8 " spade drill bit to carve out the ring retainer base.

 

 

 

I would later progress to a 1 " spade drill bit to finish the job. In hindsight, I could have stuck to the smaller size, but it's nothing a little green stuff can't fix.

 

 

Sanding of shallow recess

 

Given the recess only needs to be one or two mm in depth, I opted for manual sanding - forget the dremel. I applied industrial velcro to my sandpaper and ring holder and went to work. I gone past the one to two mm mark so again, will need green stuff to save the day.

 

 

I would use a square file to get at the recess more exactly. The top of the ring retainer base is now flush against the end cap but it really should be raised a mm or so to follow SMG references.

 

 

Here are some test-fit images of the ring holder on the end cap.

 

 

 

Now, I proceeded to filling green stuff to ring holder. This closes the opening so to drill out later for a snug fit of the ring later at installation.

 

 

Adding green stuff to increase curvature where ring holder meets retainer base following SMG references

 

 

Here is a before and after picture of adding curvature.

 

 

Here I added more green stuff, this time to the ring retainer base! This will raise it to correct height when installed on shallow recess.

 

 

After the green stuff has cured, I measured out the diameter of the ring (5 / 32 ")and chose a 11 / 64 " drill bit to make the hole.

 

 

 

I then proceeded to cut a narrow slit so to prepare for the D-Ring installation

 

 

Sliver Piece reinforced with CA glue

 

 

Here's the sliver piece installed overtop with the D-Ring installed

 

 

Now, I decided to reinforce where the sliver piece meets the ring by inserting a plastic U-channel. I cut a hollow plastic tube to the length of the ring holder and sliced it horizontally. Added heat to ensure for it's curvature as well. Then sanded down the sliver piece so to make room for the U-channel. Finally CA glued the two pieces, installed it with the D-Ring underneath, and closed any gaps with more, yes, more green stuff.

 

 

 

 

 

At this stage of the mod, I noticed something. The end cap doesn't need to resemble a toilet lid! You know, here it is again...

 

 

I see a toilet lid everytime now...I've gone and carved out that bottom portion of the End Cap following SMG references.

 

 

Here is a close-up of it before and after sanding / forming.

 

 

 

Finally, at the gluing stage. Used E-6000 and black tape to hold in place.

 

 

Green stuff to close the gap between the retainer base and the end cap.

 

 

Here are close-ups of the raised retainer base.

 

 

I also noticed that the ring holder had some of it's hard edges smoothed out, following, you guessed it, SMG references. So I did that as well. Used a square file and finished up with light grit sandpaper.

 

 

Here are close-ups of the sanding done...before and after pictures.

 

 

Done! Quite enjoyable working out the End Cap. I am especially happy with rounding out the bottom portion of the cap - gotta get rid of that toilet lid look =) Cheers! Have a terrific day, Sunny out here in the Canadian Westcoast =)

 

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Aaah - it’s a tiny toilet!!! Thanks Jesse! Lol

Seriously though, very in depth. Funny thing is, I spent ages measuring the top of my end cap and marking centre lines, then did the same as you - looked inside and saw the centre hole - drilled through and thankfully it met up with my measurements.
Good work, Jesse. :-)



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