T-Jay[TK] Posted November 20, 2018 Report Posted November 20, 2018 Congrats on completing this stage of the build. The paint job really worked well and looks spot on. Also the reticle lens and the tiny screws are very nice highlights. 7 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Just wondering why you did not close this gap with green stuff prior to painting? Well on the other hand, not many people will ever notice it at all. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 20, 2018 Author Report Posted November 20, 2018 Wow! That’s come out really, really nicely. Looks very natural and authentic. :-)Hey thanks Dan! My best did get it to a more realistic level than, cheers!Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 20, 2018 Author Report Posted November 20, 2018 Congrats on completing this stage of the build. The paint job really worked well and looks spot on. Also the reticle lens and the tiny screws are very nice highlights. Just wondering why you did not close this gap with green stuff prior to painting? Well on the other hand, not many people will ever notice it at all.Thanks! It felt really good to get a component to completion, paint and all! Thanks for the compliments, I'll keep to course then with the paint and weathering application. I was worried how it might all turn out.Eagle eyes on the large lens, end cap retainer! My workflow was such that gluing the back and front caps to the body was the last step. But you're right, that rear cap should be flush to the body with no gap.Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Posted November 21, 2018 (edited) My next target is set and gaining momentum for the build...Tino, Andy, you guys rock!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Edited January 7, 2019 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 21, 2018 Report Posted November 21, 2018 Jesse, you nailed the scope paint job. I own a few real ones and must say that your scope paint is spot on. The lighting really shows that subtle sheen. Your hard work and attention to detail continues to pay off. Got popcorn ready for the power cylinders. With Andy's awesome research I am sure your cylinders will be epic. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 21, 2018 Report Posted November 21, 2018 2 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: When building my first set of power cylinders, I had also worked with Andy's great document. It simply is the best resource out there. But hey, the photos in that binder on top look familiar to me - did you really print the steps from my first build to refer to? Wow, I am out of words, man. 2 Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 21, 2018 Report Posted November 21, 2018 Oh yeah, sorry Tino, I should have noticed that too. Your builds are like pages out sacred texts. Never leave home without them!. 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Posted November 21, 2018 Jesse, you nailed the scope paint job. I own a few real ones and must say that your scope paint is spot on. The lighting really shows that subtle sheen. Your hard work and attention to detail continues to pay off. :popcorn:Got popcorn ready for the power cylinders. With Andy's awesome research I am sure your cylinders will be epic. I am humbled by your comments Brian – coming from someone who manufactures scopes. No curtains anytime soon, the show will continue! When building my first set of power cylinders, I had also worked with Andy's great document. It simply is the best resource out there. But hey, the photos in that binder on top look familiar to me - did you really print the steps from my first build to refer to? Wow, I am out of words, man. I agree entirely, Andy's resource is the definitive source for power cylinders. Tino, your work is an inspiration to me and to many others. IMO, this and your 2016 build are the builds that show cases what’s possible, deserving to be binded for quick reference. Oh yeah, sorry Tino, I should have noticed that too. Your builds are like pages out sacred texts. Never leave home without them!. Yup! They’re timeless go-to pieces for generation of builders to come. Excellent reads to expand the mind! No kidding, really.Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Posted November 29, 2018 (edited) Hello all, From the onset of setting out to modify my doopydoos power cylinders, I quickly realized it was just a simple representation of the real thing. I did a few mods right from the get-go: backplate shape, bottom plate width and thickness reduced.I also found the power cylinder lop-sided, weird. It was tilted to one side! As for additions, I filed away the resin end caps to replace them with metal plumbing valve caps. I sanded 2mm in their height. I then threaded the end caps to the resin outer cylinders. I then installed the bolt and nuts from Tinos completion set. I also created the ceramic tube that is inside the outer cylinders. Sometimes I wish I had a drill press to get precision vertical drilling, oh well. More pictures to come! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Edited January 7, 2019 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 29, 2018 Report Posted November 29, 2018 A very interesting way, Jesse. Any plans for the surface of these metal plumbing valve caps? Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 29, 2018 Author Report Posted November 29, 2018 2 hours ago, T-Jay said: A very interesting way, Jesse. Any plans for the surface of these metal plumbing valve caps? Hey Tino - they're aren't bumpy like that originally so I will take them away at some stage. Furthermore to share, I found the doopydoos version of the power cylinders pretty lacking, baseplate is all wrong from Length to Width to thickness (the latter can be explained from the resin molding process) Except for the cylinders themselves, I am not liking so much at all any other component of doopydoos here... Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 30, 2018 Report Posted November 30, 2018 Doopy power cylinders do take a lot of work to get them to look accurate. Those caps are an interesting find for the ends. I found the cylinders to be the most difficult to capture the details but its rewarding when it done and you see how they look compared to the original doopy state. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 30, 2018 Author Report Posted November 30, 2018 (edited) 12 hours ago, Bulldog44 said: Doopy power cylinders do take a lot of work to get them to look accurate. Those caps are an interesting find for the ends. I found the cylinders to be the most difficult to capture the details but its rewarding when it done and you see how they look compared to the original doopy state. Thanks guys, I'll keep to task. It was a fluke to find those valve caps, now to file away the bumpy surface. Looking forward to the central capacitors, after which I will add the scoop to get shape A. Thanks Andy for giving me permission to use his pictures. Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Edited November 30, 2018 by Dracotrooper Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 30, 2018 Report Posted November 30, 2018 Yes, the power cylinders in the DoopyDoo's kit are not very accurate. But with some effort, you can turn them into something good. From Derrek (Dday) I heard, the power cylinders are one of the most tricky parts, to cast in resin. That is why his cylinders are made from 2 resin pieces, while DoopyDoo's does it all in one piece. However, I am sure your cylinders will look great in the end. 2 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted November 30, 2018 Report Posted November 30, 2018 I suffered over what to use for mine, and ended up using copper tubing/caps. I thought the ends of the caps should be completely flat (like the DD ones come) but in looking at reference pics noticed that were actually slightly rounded. I cut down the caps to length and flattened the tops a bit. (The photograph angle makes the right one appear a little longer). I used aluminum for the base plate. Much easier to work with. Reference image Finished product This was the most fun for me... almost needed surgical skills, lol. 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted November 30, 2018 Author Report Posted November 30, 2018 I suffered over what to use for mine, and ended up using copper tubing/caps. I thought the ends of the caps should be completely flat (like the DD ones come) but in looking at reference pics noticed that were actually slightly rounded. I cut down the caps to length and flattened the tops a bit. (The photograph angle makes the right one appear a little longer). I used aluminum for the base plate. Much easier to work with. Reference image Finished product This was the most fun for me... almost needed surgical skills, lol. Hey there Joseph, Very informative pictures, thank you. Not only will I get to sanding the sides of my caps, I will round off their edges to like what you've done. Your cylinders look awesome by the way! I like the hint of red insulation wire poking out over top, really screen accurate portrayal, nice touch Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted December 1, 2018 Report Posted December 1, 2018 16 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Very informative pictures, thank you. Not only will I get to sanding the sides of my caps, I will round off their edges to like what you've done. Your cylinders look awesome by the way! I like the hint of red insulation wire poking out over top, really screen accurate portrayal, nice touch My pleasure! I always use Tino's kits... he thinks of everything!! 2 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) Hi folks, Some major progress on upgrading my doopydoos power cylinders... After only upgrading the end caps...wasn't satisfied...went on to upgrade the outer cylinders. Scavenged and old VCR to get my resisters....only came away with one so made three more. Planned out position of holes on backplate...hand dremeled with caution...had to mend one by reinforcing it with aluminum strip. Test fit of major components good with room for resisters. Next up is getting my central capacitors good then resisters and insulation sleeve, cheers mates!!! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Edited January 7, 2019 by Dracotrooper 2 Quote
CableGuy[Admin] Posted December 31, 2018 Report Posted December 31, 2018 Blimey Jesse! You’re really coming up with some out-of-the-box ideas for this build. Very inspiring. :-) 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Posted December 31, 2018 (edited) On 12/30/2018 at 11:53 PM, CableGuy said: Blimey Jesse! You’re really coming up with some out-of-the-box ideas for this build. Very inspiring. :-) My goal for realism and working with no deadline affords me plenty of time to dream up off-the-wall solutions ... cylinders square vent slits showcase 1/4 " OD tubes that act as ceramic tubes present in the real deal, though they are smaller on OD in real life. Always a pleasure to hear from you Dan!! Edited January 7, 2019 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 31, 2018 Report Posted December 31, 2018 Outstanding job, Jesse. A beautyful pair of power cylinders. Don't forget the wing stubs and to put a soldering dot on top of the two main cylinders. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted December 31, 2018 Author Report Posted December 31, 2018 Outstanding job, Jesse. A beautyful pair of power cylinders. Don't forget the wing stubs and to put a soldering dot on top of the two main cylinders. Hey thanks Tino for the encouragement! Soldering dot you mean to close off parts of my end caps? It not, please explain, curious to know what you mean Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 1, 2019 Report Posted January 1, 2019 Sorry Jesse, my mistake. The soldering dots belong where the end caps meet the front end of the cylinder tubes. Hard to explain but you can ignore it, because the soldering dots are NOT on top (as I said earlier). They are on the bottom and can not be seen there. So just ignore my comment. Sorry for the confusion mate. Quote
Dracotrooper Posted January 2, 2019 Author Report Posted January 2, 2019 Sorry Jesse, my mistake. The soldering dots belong where the end caps meet the front end of the cylinder tubes. Hard to explain but you can ignore it, because the soldering dots are NOT on top (as I said earlier). They are on the bottom and can not be seen there. So just ignore my comment. Sorry for the confusion mate.Oooh, I do know what you mean - you are referring to the soldering or more likely brazing blobs that was done to the underside to the front parts of the cylinders between the cap and the cylinder...yup, Andy's research manual captured those pictures, got it! No worries, I count this as heads up for details Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 2, 2019 Report Posted January 2, 2019 8 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Oooh, I do know what you mean - you are referring to the soldering or more likely brazing blobs that was done to the underside to the front parts of the cylinders between the cap and the cylinder...yup (...) Exactly. 1 Quote
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