Suspend Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 Arg!!!! That's so sad. Sorry to hear that. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted September 30, 2018 Report Posted September 30, 2018 7 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: (...) Go figure, how electrical current can pass through E-6000 to create a short circuit (....) Whaaaaat??? Maybe I have seen to many photos where hot glue was used for such cases, but I never expected that. Sorry Jesse. The same would have happened to me. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Posted October 1, 2018 On 9/30/2018 at 12:10 AM, Suspend said: Arg!!!! That's so sad. Sorry to hear that. Thanks for the support mate, my wound is no longer festering On 9/30/2018 at 1:32 AM, T-Jay said: Whaaaaat??? Maybe I have seen to many photos where hot glue was used for such cases, but I never expected that. Sorry Jesse. The same would have happened to me. Thanks also for the empathy Tino - simple mistake, big consequence. unfortunately, this lesson needed to be learned the hard way. Quote
Mupfel Posted October 1, 2018 Report Posted October 1, 2018 No way?!.., sorry to read that mate!Do you have plans already on how to go on? Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Posted October 1, 2018 14 minutes ago, Mupfel said: No way?!.., sorry to read that mate! Do you have plans already on how to go on? Hey there Marko - my plan is to prime and paint now Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 1, 2018 Author Report Posted October 1, 2018 Hi all, Quick update here.... WIth or without the BlastFX, having purchased Tino's quality pieces still puts a smile on my face when I think of my barren and very hollow blaster I'm happy to say I have no way of short circuiting any item from the completion set, that's enough of that! Painting the E-11 is a fun part of the Blaster build. Grey Primer applied to many parts. I sprayed over the shiny parts too; figure I can buff the paint out with the right dremel bit. Rust-Oleum Grey Primer on Folding Stock Primer paint on trigger group and front sight pin and block Way cool to see these in grey - there was allot of green stuff otherwise! Magazine and End Cap with Primer Paint Coil grabs the spring cup pretty tight, which is able to keep the it in place. Coil install against spring cup Here is a rather ugly picture of how the end cap retainer is sitting on the rear of the receiver tube. I'm just glad the end cap is sitting nicely and with the 'T' of the end cap clip installed, the lock mechanism is working just fine. Testing positional accuracy of end cap and end cap clip Coil is compressing nicely with the pull of the charge handle. It really is interesting to see it hollow where the exposed bolt was. I will need to add a cover at a later time. Testing the movability of the Rear of the Exposed Bolt Will go about priming the receiver tube in the next few days - this will be fun to see it all grey; post to come shortly, thanks for reading! Current Status of Priming some major components of the E-11 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 3, 2018 Report Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Hi Jesse, congrats on your latest progress. Using a coloured primer, always changes the game. It not only hides the green stuff, but also shows the last few weak spots - in case there are some. Very small issues can even get fixed simply by sanding that area. On 10/1/2018 at 10:40 PM, Dracotrooper said: Maybe it is just the photo, but in this picture your rear sight sits critically close to the end cap. Looks like maybe 2 mm got lost because of that cut through the receiver tube. I understand you want the locking mechanism of your end cap clip to work. But do not forget the end cap needs a little gap to the rear sight, so you can rotate it for removal. By the way: this reference photo is from our Blaster Reference pictures straight out of photobucket.com. Seems like their 3rd party hosting service works again...?!?! Edited October 3, 2018 by T-Jay Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 3, 2018 Author Report Posted October 3, 2018 9 hours ago, T-Jay said: Hi Jesse, congrats on your latest progress. Using a coloured primer, always changes the game. It not only hides the green stuff, but also shows the last few weak spots - in case there are some. Very small issues can even get fixed simply by sanding that area. ... Thanks allot Tino - it does feel good to make progress in other areas of the blaster now Following up with sanding is a great suggestion and easy to do, I'll see how much I need to do. 9 hours ago, T-Jay said: ... Maybe it is just the photo, but in this picture your rear sight sits critically close to the end cap. Looks like maybe 2 mm got lost because of that cut through the receiver tube. I understand you want the locking mechanism of your end cap clip to work. But do not forget the end cap needs a little gap to the rear sight, so you can rotate it for removal. ... When I carved out the end cap retainer, I did so unevenly so that's why you see unevenness when I install it back on the receiver tube. I think between the blade and horizontal wobbliness when I went about the cut made this happen. Indeed, I may very well have taken out 2mm. Appreciate the heads-up so I keep to my build goal of getting it close to the SMG as possible and ensuring for functionality. I will need to add green stuff here to get the ~ 2mm and level it out. 9 hours ago, T-Jay said: ... By the way: this reference photo is from our Blaster Reference pictures straight out of photobucket.com. Seems like their 3rd party hosting service works again...?!?! Surprising! Their money grab plot didn't pan out after all. Hope pictures stay available for all FISD posts that relied on photobucket 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted October 3, 2018 Report Posted October 3, 2018 Keep it up, Jesse. Sorry to hear about the electronics. I’m sure this will still be a wonderful piece when it’s finished. :-) Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 3, 2018 Author Report Posted October 3, 2018 1 hour ago, CableGuy said: Keep it up, Jesse. Sorry to hear about the electronics. I’m sure this will still be a wonderful piece when it’s finished. :-) Thanks a bunch Dan - my heart still weighs heavy without the BlastFX ... wounds mend in time. Thanks for the encouragement though, means allot. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 5, 2018 Author Report Posted October 5, 2018 Hi all,Small update here. Primed more components of the blaster. Also carried through with Tinos suggestion for ensuring the 2mm was in place between the base of the rear sight and the end cap retainer. This would make sure the twisting of the end cap can be achieved when pushing the cap forward.End cap retainer needs to be put in place still. It looks like there will be less gaps than before which is great - a much cleaner look than before.More updates to come, thanks for reading!Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 8, 2018 Author Report Posted October 8, 2018 Hi all, A follow up with the end cap retainer. I have it installed against the 2mm of green stuff added to the end of the reciever. Test fitting with end cap is just fine. Now pretty elated to see the reciever painted with grey primer. With magazine housing and front and rear sight installed, quite happy with the progress. I've masked away some parts as well like the metal parts of the rear sight and muzzle screws - hoping to make some details pop at a later detailing stage. Excellent to see it with uniform color hiding away all the green stuff though. We all know how much I used. Inserted inner tube, had from completion set, before spraying to keep inner parts clean and sides of vent holes and charging handle track painted nice. Thanks for dropping by friends! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 4 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 13, 2018 Author Report Posted October 13, 2018 (edited) Hi all, Installing the bayonet lug has been a nice challenge this evening. I have yet to glue the lug to the reciever but will share the progress this far. In following my build goal in trying to get my doopydoos blaster much like the real deal as much as possible, I've created the grooves on the reciever tube for the lug to sit on. I also, as shown in previous posts, added a circular base to the doopydoos lug and have dremeled one end of it to make it more flat to contour nicely against the receiver. This following SMG reference. Pins added to prepare for final glue and install; wouldn't want this little component to be bumped right off and not notice. Pins to stabilize to ensure it's a permanent fixture to the blaster. I've masked the glue-surface and will need to re-prime before install with glue, update to come Have a terrific day, and happy building! Thanks for dropping by E-6000 applied and stabilized with electrical tape while curing. Edited October 18, 2018 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
CUBE[TK] Posted October 16, 2018 Report Posted October 16, 2018 Where do you get a better magazine than the one that comes in the doopys kit ? Also my doopys kit is missing the end cap clip to Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Posted October 16, 2018 Where do you get a better magazine than the one that comes in the doopys kit ? ... Hi Cube, there was a discussion lately on replacement magazine for doopydoos - check it out:https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45179-replacement-e-11-magazine/&share_tid=45179&share_fid=44557&share_type=tAs for the end cap clip, you can check out shapeways.com for suitcase props, not sure about other options...Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 16, 2018 Author Report Posted October 16, 2018 (edited) Hi folks, Took some time today to look more thoroughly at the singular monocular from Tinos completion set. I have a rough idea how to install it to the scope but rather confused how to install the tiny lense with the reticle I've studied some pictures to know if I need to add green stuff to keep the reticule lense a certain distance from the large lense but still unsure. Right now, as the picture shows, the reticle are blurry when the lense is up against the small end..anyone can lend insight? Edited October 18, 2018 by Dracotrooper 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 17, 2018 Report Posted October 17, 2018 Hi Jesse, from what I can see, you already found the exact same pictures, I just wanted to send you. 17 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: Your setup in this photo seems absolutely correct and you should get a proper magnification of the engravings in the reticle lens. You said it is blurry. Hm, that is strange. Okay, try the following steps: 1. Flip the reticle lens. Maybe the wrong side was facing the big lens and the thickness of the reticle lens distorted the distance for a good magnification. 2. Check the installation of the big lens in that housing. It has a plain and a domed side. Plain side should point towards the reticle lens, domed side towards your eye. To flip it, just unscrew the big retainer ring and it should drop out of the housing. 3. Try playing with those two lenses. Change their distance and check if you need more or less distance than what you currently have with that metal piece of the monocular. Had no such issue yet and keeping fingers crossed... Quote
Mupfel Posted October 17, 2018 Report Posted October 17, 2018 I agree with T-Jay, keeping fingers crossed that you have more luck with your lense than with your electronics!Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 17, 2018 Author Report Posted October 17, 2018 2 hours ago, T-Jay said: Hi Jesse, from what I can see, you already found the exact same pictures, I just wanted to send you. ... I know - I've become so familiar with your 2016 build, my updates really show that lol 2 hours ago, T-Jay said: ... Your setup in this photo seems absolutely correct and you should get a proper magnification of the engravings in the reticle lens. ... Had no such issue yet and keeping fingers crossed... Nothing wrong here, it's just me! I wasn't wearing my glasses I temporarily secured the reticle lens with sticky tack - green stuff to follow for final install. Reticule lines are seen clearly with my glasses on, heckm heckm, silly me. To confirm, the larger lens being concave contoured on the outside, images seen through it are upside down? Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 17, 2018 Author Report Posted October 17, 2018 5 hours ago, Mupfel said: I agree with T-Jay, keeping fingers crossed that you have more luck with your lense than with your electronics! A major blunder on my part...no emergency! Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted October 18, 2018 Report Posted October 18, 2018 12 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: (...) Nothing wrong here, it's just me! I wasn't wearing my glasses (...) Whaaaat??? I was worrying about what could have went wrong and it was just the glasses. 12 hours ago, Dracotrooper said: (...) To confirm, the larger lens being concave contoured on the outside, images seen through it are upside down? (...) Basically yes. If you look at the first image below, this effect depends on a specific distance between the lens and the point where all the arrows meet. You are using that metal part from the monocular and this will ensure the correct distance for a good magnification without seeing the engravings of the reticle lens upside down. Just tested it. Works with and without glasses. 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 18, 2018 Author Report Posted October 18, 2018 8 hours ago, T-Jay said: Whaaaat??? I was worrying about what could have went wrong and it was just the glasses. Basically yes. If you look at the first image below, this effect depends on a specific distance between the lens and the point where all the arrows meet. You are using that metal part from the monocular and this will ensure the correct distance for a good magnification without seeing the engravings of the reticle lens upside down. Just tested it. Works with and without glasses. Wow - nice explanation! It all makes sense now, thanks Tino. For next steps, I will cut off some metal from the large end of the metal monocular part so the lens is accessed closer and fit it in the scope end cap. Need to also make adjustments to the scope tube as well to fit them in. I was off center when I hollowed the scope so I need to do some recovery with .... you know what? ... you guessed it - green stuff. Quote
Suspend Posted October 18, 2018 Report Posted October 18, 2018 56 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said: Wow - nice explanation! It all makes sense now, thanks Tino. For next steps, I will cut off some metal from the large end of the metal monocular part so the lens is accessed closer and fit it in the scope end cap. Need to also make adjustments to the scope tube as well to fit them in. I was off center when I hollowed the scope so I need to do some recovery with .... you know what? ... you guessed it - green stuff. What happened to me was that the reticule lines were in focus until I installed the little lens at the front of the scope. Then everything went out of focus. Presumably because the length of the hollowed out blaster scope didn't match the length of the monocular. I just left it but I'm not sure if there would have been a way to correct that? Mark 1 Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 18, 2018 Author Report Posted October 18, 2018 What happened to me was that the reticule lines were in focus until I installed the little lens at the front of the scope. Then everything went out of focus. Presumably because the length of the hollowed out blaster scope didn't match the length of the monocular. I just left it but I'm not sure if there would have been a way to correct that? Mark Good to know - I will keep this in mind when I get to that step, cheers!Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk Quote
Dracotrooper Posted October 19, 2018 Author Report Posted October 19, 2018 Hi all, Small progress - I went and cut away the unnecessary thread part of the large lens of the monocular. I had to do a second go to get close to the lens retainer ring. I had to be careful not to scratch the lense with my hacksaw blade...success! Finished off by sanding even the cut end, happy with the results! Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk 1 Quote
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