Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

[Dracotrooper]

If this blaster build comes to an end one day, we will need a video clip of all the features of this master piece.

Yes Tino - key part of the phrase is 'one day' I'm pretty elated to abort my initial conviction about the speaker in the scope - In retrospect, it was kind of a hokey idea. It will be sweet to get going on prop master add-ons like the scope and counter. For now, it is SMG parts and getting the electronics good. Will follow through with painting, hopefully before summers end, especially as I plan to use wrinkle paint which require higher ambient temperature to wrinkle well. I am having a ton of fun even as the blaster is now...using the 100 yard rear sight against the pin on the front sight and getting major sound with the speaker even just temporarily installed in the back of the tube. Chasing my toddlers around during the summer nights with a lit-up barrel is so much fun too!!

 

Maybe after its all said and done, my thread will be known for what's possible, certainly not for what's recommended

 

Cheers friend!

 

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

[Mupfel]

Hi Jesse,

 

Sorry, I did not wanted to criticize the way of how you are building your blaster, you doing a very outstanding job here.

 

Thanks for the hint with the speaker! I double checked it now and recognized that mine is a tinier one, without the metal around.

 

I would like to pull the charge handle as well, so I thought about having a black little tube in between the coils, to get the wires through. Then you can compress the coils without damaging the wires.

 

By the way, I am a daily visitor on your build… looking forward to the next pictures!

 

Well done until now!

 

Marko

 

[Dracotrooper]

Hi Jesse, Sorry, I did not wanted to criticize the way of how you are building your blaster, you doing a very outstanding job here. Thanks for the hint with the speaker! I double checked it now and recognized that mine is a tinier one, without the metal around. I would like to pull the charge handle as well, so I thought about having a black little tube in between the coils, to get the wires through. Then you can compress the coils without damaging the wires. By the way, I am a daily visitor on your build… looking forward to the next pictures!
Well done until now! Marko

Hey there Marko, happy to help any way I can You too are very ambitious with keeping the coil compression with electronics - interesting ideal about black tubing holding the speaker wires in place. I foresee some challenges on how to make it 'float' between the coils.

Your thread has been interesting too! Thanks!

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[Dracotrooper]

Hi again,

 

Blaster is coming along .... With the proof of concept under my belt for the speaker install in the back of the receiver tube, I now find myself needing to figure out the rear of the exposed bolt.  I would gather a felt marker, plastic tubing, dense foam sheets and some, let's say, plasticard for this phase...

 

I used T-Jay's 2cm plastic tubing I got from purchasing his completion set. I cut it to length. I had to cut away an enclave to it since I have electronic wiring poking up from the grip and into the receiver tube under there. It was necessary or else I would hit the wiring and the 'rear of the exposed bolt' (ROTEB) would not slide nice. I outfitted the one end with dense foam to minimize strain onto the electronic wiring. Later, I will install a 'stop' piece to keep the dense foam from pressing into the wiring. On the other end of the ROTEB, I managed to find a felt marker with the perfect diameter and cap that can fit inside the coils. I filled in the top of the cap with green stuff to make it flush - it had a weird cross-hair pattern on the top.

 

On the other end of the coil, I will install three donut shaped pieces made of dense foam and plasticard, which will eventually be pushing against the speaker. This to protect the speaker when the charging handle is pulled back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still in the proof of concept and design stage but almost ready to install the ROTEB for good and lock in the speakers in position ... thanks for following once again! My pleasure to be part of this community with you all!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Yes, it is always a challenge to combine electronics and a movable bolt in the same build. Had this problem too with my pipe build. Meaning, this was somewhat easier for me to solve.

I might be wrong now, but since being a member on this board, I can not think of any full resin build with an operational charging handle.

On 7/27/2018 at 2:49 AM, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   'rear of the exposed bolt' (ROTEB)   (...)

'loving this'  (LT)  

[Dracotrooper]

22 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Yes, it is always a challenge to combine electronics and a movable bolt in the same build. Had this problem too with my pipe build. Meaning, this was somewhat easier for me to solve. I might be wrong now, but since being a member on this board, I can not think of any full resin build with an operational charging handle. 'loving this'  (LT)  

Thanks Tino! - many like yourself here in FISD have been so encouraging ... I owe a depth of gratitude to you and others. Thanks for all that you've done and continue to do, to open up our minds to build possibilities.

Q. Can you tell me how much ROTEB is exposed as seen from the charging handle track? What is the length from the charging handle to where the ROTEB meets the cup?

In comparing my ROTEB to the reference guide, it's length is a bit long....can you tell me the exact measurements? I think it's length stops at the point where the grip attaches to the reciever tube...as seen from you 2014 build.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 30, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[Dracotrooper]

I can't seem to find consistency between authoritative images I have on the bayonet lug...anyone can shed some light on this? In the collage, all are blaster reference / compendium images other than the bottom right image which is from Tino's image collection off of his 2016 build. Some images are conveying some sort of circular like base? Interesting...

 

 

Here's a shot of the doopydoos bayonet lug...

Edited July 30, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

The cut off a la DD is probably just to make moulding easier.  As for the other two, could be down to differences between minor variations of the sterling.

[Dracotrooper]

8 hours ago, themaninthesuitcase said:

The cut off a la DD is probably just to make moulding easier.  As for the other two, could be down to differences between minor variations of the sterling.

Makes allot of sense Chris - thanks for chiming in. Swpropman provides lots of pictures from his plastic replica smg parts - his bayonet lug nut looks good!

 

 

 

 It's following much after Aaron's lug nut from the photo compendium.  I think I will mimic this mod cheers!!

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

10 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   What is the length from the charging handle to where the ROTEB meets the cup?   (...)

The distance from the ROTEB to the centre of the charging handle is 46 mm (1.81 inches)

[Dracotrooper]

12 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

The distance from the ROTEB to the centre of the charging handle is 46 mm (1.81 inches)

Thanks Tino! I would've been off by nearly 4mm for eye-balling the length

[T-Jay[TK]]

40 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

Your picture above shows the circular base of the bayonet lug and that is correct.

In my resin build, the bayonet lug came with a very thin base. Maybe it had been sanded a bit too much after it was taken out of the mold. I simply filled the surrounding gap with green stuff and this led to the slightly different shape.

[Dracotrooper]

1 hour ago, T-Jay said:

Your picture above shows the circular base of the bayonet lug and that is correct.

In my resin build, the bayonet lug came with a very thin base. Maybe it had been sanded a bit too much after it was taken out of the mold. I simply filled the surrounding gap with green stuff and this led to the slightly different shape.

I commend you for how you recovered the bayonet lug nut for this blaster. I especially like how you've weathered it

[Dracotrooper]

Can someone tell me the length of the spring cup? Here's a pictures of it, the latter is from Tino's 2016 build.

 

I gather that the part of the spring cap that's exposed is roughly 2-1/2 coils in length but I am unsure how much is hidden inside the ROTEB - rear of the exposed bolt. Is it just that 'lip' part, whereby you install it by funneling it through the other end of the exposed bolt? I am asking for the correct measurement length of the spring cup.

 

I'm trying to mimic this piece as closely as possible, cheers!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

Hi everybody,

 

I took a more thorough look at Tino's 2016 build; I noticed the spring cup doesn't get installed from the front end because of the narrow curvature to engage the ejector fin.

 

 

I see also that the spring cup sits on a spring that is held in place with yet another piece that holds the charge handle.

 

 

As for the spring cup length, I'll make it 2-1/2 springs in length and add the additional mm or two for where the 'lip' should be. Really grateful for the Tino's detailed builds - they sure come in handy!

 

 

With the spring cup being supported by springs on either end, maybe it can be retracted into the bolt, maybe when it touches the end cap?

 

Here's the status of things so far ... I need to cut my plastic felt pen lid to length. The blue line is the mark for the 2-1/2 coils. The cut will take place a few mm down the pen. I purchased a nice spring to insert inside it. I may still build the support base for this inner spring (that following SMG references, holds the charge handle), but that would mean I need to hollow out my make-shift spring cup, because the inner supports for the support base goes into a hollow spring cup. Pretty exciting revelations here for this doopydoos build... we will see about next steps...

 

 

Thanks for reading and have a great day!

[T-Jay[TK]]

Sorry for replying so late, Jesse. I am currently away from home with limited internet access and will check the measurements of the spring cup when being back again (in about 28 hrs).

 

If somebody else is able to help in the meantime, I guess Jesse would be happy to get the correct measurements.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Alright Jesse, here are the dimensions of the spring cup:

 

OD on smaller end: 24 mm

OD on end with lip: 29 mm

total length: 33 mm

 

On 8/4/2018 at 4:05 PM, Dracotrooper said:

(...)   how much is hidden inside the ROTEB - rear of the exposed bolt. Is it just that 'lip' part   (...)

Its not that easy. As you have already noticed, the spring cup rests between two springs. When pulling back the charging handle, both springs will compress - with different characteristics. Meaning, the spring cup will move a bit back or forth. That is why the ROTEB (rear of the exposed bolt) is hollowed, to give room for the cup to dive into.

Or to be more accurate: The actual moving part is the inner bolt. When in sliding backwards in action, its rear end covers the cup and hides it inside. Does that make any sense?

[Dracotrooper]

... Its not that easy. As you have already noticed, the spring cup rests between two springs. When pulling back the charging handle, both springs will compress - with different characteristics. Meaning, the spring cup will move a bit back or forth. That is why the ROTEB (rear of the exposed bolt) is hollowed, to give room for the cup to dive into. Or to be more accurate: The actual moving part is the inner bolt. When in sliding backwards in action, its rear end covers the cup and hides it inside. Does that make any sense? ...

 

A million thanks to you Tino for following through with those dimensions - they've helped me measure accurately for my doopydoos fitted version of the spring cup. I've converted the real dimensions you've given, by doing a relative calculation to obtain an accurate length for my version of the spring cup.  

 

Here I precision measure my spring cup to 23mm in length and cut evenly using a pipe cutter.

 

 

You're making total sense to me Tino  - I gathered that was how the spring cup functioned relative to the bolt but now with you're description, I understand it fully. I can now make an informed decision on how close I can get it to function like the real deal.

 

The mechanism of my ROTEB will need to work like this:

 

My outer, larger spring pushes against the end of my 20mm OD plastic tubing. Again, your completion set that came with an adequate wire gauge to form the spring and plastic tubing at the correct OD, really helped! As for my version of the spring cup, I will see to hollow it through, with a smaller inner diameter on the smaller end.  I will insert a spring (OD 15mm) into the larger opening of the spring cup. Hopefully, with my spring cup getting narrower, the spring will stay in place. If not, I'll have to use E-6000 to make this happen. Also, a plastic piece will be used at the other end of this smaller spring to keep it in place. This follows somewhat SMG references but modified because I need to accommodate BlastFX wiring.

 

 

For how my bolt will function in pulling back on the charge handle, the spring cup will not retract into the bolt. The only way it will retract into the bolt is if the cup gets pushed by the support piece at the end of the large spring...I can live with that!

 

Have a terrific summer afternoon everybody - more updates to come soon!

 

 

[Dracotrooper]

More progress to posts - this time on the bayonet lug:

 

I'm part way through with enhancing the doopydoos bayonet lug nut for a circular base. I measured it at 12mm in diameter. Plasticard was used and it will be padded with green stuff on the bottom of it. The cured green stuff will be sanded down to follow the curvature of the receiver tube before install.

 

 

cheers!

[Dracotrooper]

Hi again, just a quick update on my doopydoos fitted spring cup.

The plastic felt pen cap is now hollowed through. Felt I needed to bring out the dremel for working with plastic.

Heavy gauge wire spring set in place and lodged in place so made stationary. This would be the end of the spring cup with the 'lip.' Armorture wire spring also set in place on the other end of the cup so to resemble one spring going through the cup. This follows after SMG references.

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[Dracotrooper]

Hi everybody!

 

It sure has been a while since my last post - the intricacies involved with getting my BlastFX speaker installed and scratch building by ROTEB (rear of the exposed bolt) had been challenging. A wire to my speaker broke off and I needed to paint the ROTEB since its an inner component, it won't be easily accessible after install. Discovered liquid electrical tape and applied it stabilize the speaker wire, after some soldering and keeping things in place with E-6000. As for the ROTEB paint, used metallic and flat black for the charge handle.

 

Getting the charging handle of the ROTEB installed was a tricky endeavor - had to feed in the ROTEB down the reciever tube and had to put the handle in place from the outside within the charging handle track. Then, only to get in the screw for the charging handle from the hole revealed from taking out the trigger group. I eventually did It!

 

To protect the speaker from the compressed coil when the charge handle is engaged, a plastic washer was installed. I skipped the idea about foam.

 

I will soon screw the speaker into place and also screw in the end cap retainer.

 

The end cap retainer is carved to accommodate the speaker. Taking a closer look, I blundered on the carving and have to follow through with more carving to get the end cap retainer oriented correctly. The outside of the end cap retainer has three holes drilled so it can be installed into the end of the reciever tube. Holes recessed to accommodate screw heads.

 

Feeling so very ellated! Charging handle is now operational! It has allot of resistance with the gauge of wire from Tino's Completion Set. It can be pulled back and the blaster can still achieve 'surround sound' by using the reciever tube as an echo chamber for my BlastFX speaker! Blast and stun sound is nice and loud!! What follows is some photos with descriptions...

 

Original doopydoos charging handle much like the real thing with a circular base - I sanded away the sides so that it can fit through the charging handle track. Prepped for tiny screw to get it into place.

 

 

 

Here's some updated pictures of the ROTEB group of components. Metallic paint on spring cup and ROTEB with matt black on the charging handle. Taped over an area of the ROTEB so that I can install that raised portion of the ROTEB with clearing strip at a later time. It'll be easy to install as I would simply plop it into place at the charging handle track.

 

 

Here, ROTEB funneled into receiver tube and charging handle to position inside the charging handle track with a tiny screw to install the handle to the ROTEB from the exposed hole when taken away the trigger group. Spring cup would fall in, but first getting the coil to 'hug' it real tight to keep it in position.

 

 

Plastic ring recessed onto the receiver tube. It is installed flush against the end of the receiver tube so the BlastFX speaker can sit flush against it with screws holding it down. Upon speaker install, have to compress the coil inside - interesting challenge.

 

 

Preliminary carving of the end cap retainer to accommodate the back of the speaker.

 

 

Inside of the End cap retainer carved to shape. More shaping required so to have it installed correctly relative to the rear sight.

 

 

Here's a first look at the ROTEB with charging handle, spring cup and coil inserted together!

 

 

Dremel tool used to create recess for screw install.

 

 

Here I have screws attaching the BlastFX speakers to the receiver tube. Three 1-1/4 inch long wood screws will be used to install the end cap retainer part.

 

 

Here's an older picture that shows how I have to align the end cap retainer with the rear sight. Don't want to get this wrong or else the end cap will sit the wrong way!

 

 

Thanks for reading once again! Until next time...it'll be sooner!

Edited September 7, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Impressive work, as always. :-)

(Almost thought you’d forgotten us!) ;-)

[Dracotrooper]

Impressive work, as always. :-)

(Almost thought you’d forgotten us!) ;-)

Forget my TK mates! Haha, never! - especially so since still have allot more build to go and go and go....not sure exactly when I'll finish my blaster... do wanna prime and paint before the summer sun completely disappears.

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[T-Jay[TK]]

Glad to have you back Jesse and nice build progress.

[Dracotrooper]

My ambition for this build has finally gotten the best of me .... I managed to short circuit my BlastFX in the final stages of my electronics install. A misplacement of glue created a short circuit and fried my arduino motherboard! It started to have wacky sounds and display. Go figure, how electrical current can pass through E-6000 to create a short circuit sad sad day....

This picture of Emmit says it all; in a state of unbelief, shock, terror chills, you name it!!!

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