Doopydoos Full Resin Kit WIP + Tino,Chris + more, Additional Parts

[Dracotrooper]

Hi everybody,

 

The blaster build is coming along just fine - some more updates...

 

Gauging for the correct screw depth for rear sight. Thought necessary to stabilize this way as it will be supporting  the scope outfitted with some electronics. Larger bit use to recess the screw head so it's flush against the scope rail at installation.

 

 

Gauging scope rail fit on rear sight. The 100 sight makes the scope rail ride lower which is great since I will need to run BlastFX wires underneath.

 

 

Preparing rear sight for screw install

 

 

processing of creating install hole for rear sight

 

 

Rear sight with E-6000 applied and secured with zap straps to stabilize for curing. Thanks for including the two zap straps in your Completion Set Tino - they sure came in handy here.

 

 

End Cap Clip with two support pins and positioned in place for gluing

 

 

Installing flash guard. Pulling electrical tape to hold it in place worked great!

 

 

Installing the ejection port guard

 

 

front sight install. Yeah, I experimented with some grey primer

 

 

Tonight, my goal is to get the magazine housing installed, wish me luck! I think I just might be able to do it, cheers!

[Bulldog44[TK]]

For the rear sight screw I went with a flat head countersunk screw. They sell them painted already black on the flat top too. Sits nice and flush. 

[Dracotrooper]

For the rear sight screw I went with a flat head countersunk screw. They sell them painted already black on the flat top too. Sits nice and flush. 

Thanks for the tip Brian - I'll measure up and ask exactly for that screw type

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[Dracotrooper]

Well folks ..... I did it! Magazine housing installed Sterling Machine Gun accuracy calls for the housing to be 9mm (thanks to Tino for the detailed build thread) from the nearest vent hole so I did that. Also got my drill to be perpendicular to the drill position so to get a clean vertical install opposed to an uneven install via the opening from the carved out exposed bolt. I  needed to create a hole to do this. I knocked around my ejector port guard some but like I've been preaching since the beginning of this build, no biggie because have green stuff come to the rescue for this and that temporary hole.

 

Two long screws that came with Tino's completion set did the trick. Them being countersunk, used my cone-shaped dremel tool to make the recess.

 

LiPo battery fits snug still. Some minor adjustment needed inside the magazine housing to have the magazine fit properly. Ejector initially didn't install good but after dremeling away some of the head of the offending screw, all is well.

But boy o boy, I'm one happy fella to have that magazine housing installed!!! Next up is grip

 

 

 

 

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Edited June 26, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[Dracotrooper]

Hi everybody,

I've gone and doubled down on my barrel modification. Although I originally decided to frost my acrylic tubing to help propagate the light given off from the LED component of the BlastFX, I will now instead follow advice from my Garrison executive officer, to keep tubing clear and insert celephan. This way, more light gets propagated, not difuesed, much like how to build a lightsaber I was told.

I wrapped the celephan around a metal coat hanger wire and once I inserted it inside the tubing, I let the celephan unravel, voila! And pulled out the wire. Works great!

I provided supports also to the barrel to house the LED component. You can see the supports from the open exposed bolt.

I followed through today with some housekeeping, tried to thin the two parts of the inner wall of the magazine clip so that the clip would sit properly, inside the magazine housing. I also dremelled away some of the black plastic under the notch; now the folding stock locks tight.

Lastly, I wanted to explore the idea of using the scope as an echo chamber to essentially add 'stereo sound' when invoking the BlastFX. Thinking of inserting the speaker inside it. To me, the user experience of excellent quality blaster sound trumps a good looking scope. What do you guys think about this idea...i know it sounds a bit crazy!

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[T-Jay[TK]]

Pretty cool idea with the cellophane.   Just make sure to seal the back of the LED circuit board, to block any light from leaving in the wrong direction.
 

Not sure about a speaker in the scope. Yes it would fit and I understand you focus on the sound instead of the scope's look. But you can also modify the Hengstler counter to be an echo chamber. Or place the speaker inside the Sterling end cap, so sound can build up and escape through the slot for the charging handle.

 

Don't underestimate the look of a scope with glas lenses. You might think the audience won't notice the big lens while trooping, as it sits at the blaster's other end. Yes and no. If you pose for a photo it will be like this. But when you lower your arm (and you will do this a lot to relax your muscles), the rear side of your blaster will be clearly visible. Due to its nature, it will also slightly tilt frontwards, allowing the people around you to get a clear view at the scope and the numbers in the counter.

Just my two cents.

 

Oh, and that is a very uncommon way to install the magazine housing. But hey, what's common on THIS extraordinary build?! Keep it up, mate.

Edited June 28, 2018 by T-Jay

[Dracotrooper]

8 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Pretty cool idea with the cellophane.   Just make sure to seal the back of the LED circuit board, to block any light from leaving in the wrong direction. Not sure about a speaker in the scope. Yes it would fit and I understand you focus on the sound instead of the scope's look. But you can also modify the Hengstler counter to be an echo chamber. Or place the speaker inside the Sterling end cap, so sound can build up and escape through the slot for the charging handle. Don't underestimate the look of a scope with glas lenses. You might think the audience won't notice the big lens while trooping, as it sits at the blaster's other end. Yes and no. If you pose for a photo it will be like this. But when you lower your arm (and you will do this a lot to relax your muscles), the rear side of your blaster will be clearly visible. Due to its nature, it will also slightly tilt frontwards, allowing the people around you to get a clear view at the scope and the numbers in the counter. Just my two cents.  Oh, and that is a very uncommon way to install the magazine housing. But hey, what's common on THIS extraordinary build?! Keep it up, mate.

 

Hey there Tino  - great to hear from you!  Nice tip on sealing the back of the LED circuit board; will be sure to do that

 

Yes, I've seen speaker installs and work to hide it from plain sight from the slot for the charging handle. I have to check though but I think my speaker is wider than 2cm ... so installing into the receiver itself may prove challenging ... perhaps the end cap ... now that's an idea. I do feel it would be a shame to not make use of all the scope content that came with the completion set if I were to go the speaker route in the scope...I think in my context, serious consideration can be had for install of the speaker in the end cap.

 

Great points on the validity of installing glass lenses; provides that extra 'umph' of awesomeness

 

I know now, more fully, that I am an odd ball of a blaster builder!!! oooh, it's been a joy building this blaster ... can't wait to get the grip on ... cheer!

 

[Dracotrooper]

My original install idea for installing the BlastFX mode switch proved impractical for me. Was having a hard time gluing my acorn nut to the mode switch button. Now, I've outfitted my washer to a rubber button I've managed to scavenge from old radio / tv parts. Now with hot glue applied, all is well....more updates soon.

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[Dracotrooper]

Took Tino's recommendation to heart, outfitted housing of LED component on barrel with electrical tape to keep light going down the barrel.

Also, disaster struck when trigger function became sporadic than non existent; one wire then soon the other remaining wire twisted off! Likely because I've been bending wire connections during install.

Recovered well from the mishap; BlastFX again fully functional...more updates soon!

Cheers

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[Dracotrooper]

The grip is on! Happy fella to have this done over the Canada day long weekend Canada turned 151 years old!

 

Two screws that came with Tino's completion set helped get the grip on. Screw holding rear of grip to receiver tube entered the tube way, by making a temporary hole. This gave me the opportunity to recess the the hole to support countersunk screw head and to install nice and perpendicular. Cover temporary hole with green stuff later of course. Other screw came in from trigger guard end - recessed that part of the guard to take in the countersunk screw head. Also cut away near half of the screw so that it doesn't poke into the receiver tube.

 

More updates to come!

 

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Wow - I can’t believe how much stuff you can fit inside the DD!! Good work, Jesse. :-)

[T-Jay[TK]]

Indeed Dan - and he has not done it all yet...    The first two photos are really scaring.

 

Let's keep fingers crossed you'll never have to disassemble that blaster for maintenance after filling the screw holes...

[Dracotrooper]

9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Wow - I can’t believe how much stuff you can fit inside the DD!! Good work, Jesse. :-)

 

Getting the LiPo battery fitted nicely inside the magazine housing was the first and biggest hurtle. The second one was to fit BlastFX's Arduino motherboard and sound card combo, amidst all of the wiring. It didn't help any that I asked for more wiring to the LED component because I originally was thinking to install it at the muzzle. It IS coming along Dan ... outstanding are the speakers and display. I will require creative genius because I plan to install the BlastFX display onto Tino's custom replica Hengstler Counter purchased a while back.

 

 

19 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Indeed Dan - and he has not done it all yet...    The first two photos are really scaring. Let's keep fingers crossed you'll never have to disassemble that blaster for maintenance after filling the screw holes...

 

You make a good point Tino  - hopefully, I don't have to prepare for a life time of green stuff

 

If I can install the large and small lenses onto the scope and sneak in the speakers for echo chamber surround sound, that would be incredible! Maybe drill a small hole in the bottom of the large lens housing to allow light in .... hmmmm, still brainstorming - perhaps a target picture to stick to the back of the speaker? You think this will work Dan, Tino, anyone? To note, I will forgo the route of speakers on the end cap because the wire is not long enough and I still want to retain the functionality of pulling back the charging handle so that part of the receiver needs to be clear. As for the exposed bolt window, I will have to create a separate custom cover for it.

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Okay, when installing the speaker inside the scope (as shown in your picture below), it will sit very close to the big lens.

31 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

The short distance between speaker back and big lens affects the magnification - in a negative way. It needs more distance to work good. You can test this by holding the big lens in your hand, look at an object and then change the distance between lens and object. Anyway, with the speaker so close to the lens, magnification will most likely not work.

Hiding the speaker under a target picture is a good idea then. I would suggest to go for the biggest picture possible.

[Dracotrooper]

Okay, when installing the speaker inside the scope (as shown in your picture below), it will sit very close to the big lens.
The short distance between speaker back and big lens affects the magnification - in a negative way. It needs more distance to work good. You can test this by holding the big lens in your hand, look at an object and then change the distance between lens and object. Anyway, with the speaker so close to the lens, magnification will most likely not work.
Hiding the speaker under a target picture is a good idea then. I would suggest to go for the biggest picture possible.

Thank you for the heads up Tino - Much appreciated

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[Dracotrooper]

Hi again,

 

I need help! I'm having second thoughts on going about installing the speaker into the scope - With such quality scope pieces like Lenses and the reticule piece had from purchasing Tino's Completion Set, it would be a shame not to incorporate them into the scope. SO ... this is a BIG SO  ... I've done my best to brainstorm how best to install the speakers towards the end cap part of the receiver... Thinking of installing the speakers facing down the tube so to capture a 'surround sound' effect, using the tube as an echo chamber. Want to at the same time preserve the coil compression from pulling back on the charge handle...and in doing so, expose the inside electrical components at the exposed bolt window. Following this, I will have to install an exposed bolt cover to cover up the hole.

 

Please check out my design graphic and do let me know if I'm completely out of my mind ... kinda getting there because trying to preserve as much SMG functionality as possible - haha, not yet pulling out my hair. I can now solder wires with a piece of mind now! Definitely learning and developing skill sets along the way.

 

Comments / suggestions / 'hey have you thought of ...' = are all welcome! And thanks for taking the time to read

 

ps. Image may be blurry and unreadable when looking at it via cell phone, actually, if you click then download onto your cell phone, you'll be able to see it at it's high resolution. You can also access my Flickr Album via signature for high res image, cheers!

 

Edited July 5, 2018 by Dracotrooper

[T-Jay[TK]]

Glad to hear you are considering to build the scope with the lenses instead of the speaker inside.

 

Your drawing contains the cool idea to access the BlastFX board through the ejection port and pulling back the charging handle. This compresses the spring, which causes problems with running the wires along the spring towards the speaker in the end cap - and the pressure on the speaker.

 

Well, if I get this drawing right, you already found two workarounds:

1 - If the ejection port is covered with a separate piece (held in place with magnets), you won't need to pull back the charging handle to access the BlastFX. Easy way for the wires then.

2 - With the wires running in a small channel below your receiver tube, they won't cause any issues with the spring inside the receiver, even when this gets compressed.

 

Both ways seem to work but the spring's last coil could damage the speaker in the end cap. The drawing shows two rings (styrene and foam) to absorb some of this pressure. Hey, looks like you already found a solution for each problem. Or did I get something wrong here?

 

Oh, and I like your idea with the foam cylinder pressing against the end cap. That should work.

[Dracotrooper]

21 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Glad to hear you are considering to build the scope with the lenses instead of the speaker inside.

 

Your drawing contains the cool idea to access the BlastFX board through the ejection port and pulling back the charging handle. This compresses the spring, which causes problems with running the wires along the spring towards the speaker in the end cap - and the pressure on the speaker.

 

Well, if I get this drawing right, you already found two workarounds:

1 - If the ejection port is covered with a separate piece (held in place with magnets), you won't need to pull back the charging handle to access the BlastFX. Easy way for the wires then.

2 - With the wires running in a small channel below your receiver tube, they won't cause any issues with the spring inside the receiver, even when this gets compressed.

 

Both ways seem to work but the spring's last coil could damage the speaker in the end cap. The drawing shows two rings (styrene and foam) to absorb some of this pressure. Hey, looks like you already found a solution for each problem. Or did I get something wrong here?

 

Oh, and I like your idea with the foam cylinder pressing against the end cap. That should work.

Thanks Tino and others for joining me on my journey. Sorry you guys had to suffer through my terrible chicken scratch writing 

 

Point #1 is a good one - If I'm unable to make a functional charging handle (this will need a wire channel underneath, as the Point #2) with pull back and opening and closing of the cavity that is the exposed bolt window, I'll resort to this Point #1. I can proceed to making the charge handle not movable, and run the speaker wires where the coil is and then cover the exposed bolt window with a cover.

 

Hey yes! Here's to hoping the plastic ring and dense foam ring is sufficient - If I can screw in the speaker to give these two more support, that would be best. And yes, the dense foam will give me the 2 to 3mm for engaging the end cap clip, great to affirm that!

 

I was on a sprint of sorts in and around father's day and Canada day, but now with summer vacations and family time, I will need to keep this build a 'slow burn.'  Appreciate all you good people for the support in my crazy E-11 adventure. Don't get me wrong, updates still to come but will need to have more time between updates.

 

Until next time; have a terrific day!

[Dracotrooper]

Hello everybody,

Managed a 45 minute sprint after dinner - channel created on the outside of the reciever tube for speaker wire fitting - done it where the grip meets the tube. Now the speaker is positioned for install at the back of the reciever tube.

Had a second go at wire management as well. Decided to forego the wiring I did
for the selector switch. There just wasn't enough room for the wiring let alone another electronic component. I wish it wasn't so Dan, but no, there isn't much room in the doopydoos tube especially considering also that I want a movable charging handle. I also had to keep wiring and mother board / sound board combo, in and near the exposed bolt so the rear of the exposed bolt could be slidable with less interference from wiring.

Wow, at times like this, I feel I'm doing open heart surgery...wire mayhem! But truly, there is logic at play, especially now that I am so familiar with the wire colors, I know what component it leads to and where to tuck away wires.

Now with the speaker wire going towards to back amd the grip installed, next up is chopping off the end cap retainer part. My nerves are racked just thinking of it.

Until next time; thanks for reading once again!

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[Bulldog44[TK]]

You are doing an amazing job with all those wires. I would have hung myself by now. Lovin all the problem solving you document so well. Speaker in the tube will be a good idea. I liked your scope/speaker idea but it might not have given you the best sound output. Now that the scope is freed up, you should add the TRamp scope display! 

[Dracotrooper]

You are doing an amazing job with all those wires. I would have hung myself by now. Lovin all the problem solving you document so well. Speaker in the tube will be a good idea. I liked your scope/speaker idea but it might not have given you the best sound output. Now that the scope is freed up, you should add the TRamp scope display! 

Hahahaha - you make me laugh Brian. Oh, if it wasn't for hitting my build budget, in and around the time I was scratch building my magazine, I would definitely already have had that scope module! Reality hurts! Thanks for stopping by

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[T-Jay[TK]]

If this blaster build comes to an end one day, we will need a video clip of all the features of this master piece.

[Dracotrooper]

Hi all, quick update - end cap retainer part is chopped off! Proof of concept achieved by test fitting speaker to the fresh opening of the reciever tube. The echo chamber now created helped to amplify the sound from the speaker. I like the resulting sound. A cursory check shows I can install the speaker securely so that's encouraging

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[Mupfel]

Nice solution

I have the same speaker to install on the blaster. I will put it in the end clip, so i can replace it as well.


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[Dracotrooper]

Nice solution

 

I have the same speaker to install on the blaster. I will put it in the end clip, so i can replace it as well.

 

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Hi Mupfel, I chose to run the speaker wires on the outside so that I can still pull back on the charge handle and have the coils compress. The wires would otherwise get in the way. If compressing the coils is not one of your objectives, it is far easier to run the wires through the inside of the tube

 

Fyi - you having the same speakers, their install supports just extend to the outer diameter of the tube

 

Thanks for stopping by!

 

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