StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) Here are a few EIB approvals for ATA And Centurion for ATA Try double checking their build threads and see if the same issue came up. I would wait for the DOs to chime in Edited July 23, 2018 by StrmTRPR85 adding info Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level. Shoulder Straps OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 3 minutes ago, ukswrath said: If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level. That is one part Tony. The other part is the flat portions on the back of the shins and biceps. Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Posted July 23, 2018 If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level. Shoulder Straps OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Thanks for the input. The other part that was brought up is these flat spots near the butt joints.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 40 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said: Thanks for the input. The other part that was brought up is these flat spots near the butt joints. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk If your arms require the space then yes its allowed though it would look better if the cover strip was evenly placed Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Posted July 23, 2018 5 minutes ago, ukswrath said: If your arms require the space then yes its allowed though it would look better if the cover strip was evenly placed That helps. And I do agree it would look a lot better with those removed. Unfortunately hind-site is 20/20. I will plan to leave them as is until I get basic approval then get into the fine tuning once I have that. And thanks everyone for all the input and quick replies. Still hoping these cursed shins don't put an end to my TK build. Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 3 hours ago, ukswrath said: If your arms require the space then yes its allowed Just for confirmation and future reference, for Centurion as well? 2 hours ago, REAPERofDAISYS said: I will plan to leave them as is until I get basic approval then get into the fine tuning once I have that. Sounds like a good plan 2 hours ago, REAPERofDAISYS said: put an end to my TK build. We can`t have that so if all else fails I will send you a pair of untrimmed RS shins if you cover the shipping cost 1 Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Posted July 23, 2018 We can`t have that so if all else fails I will send you a pair of untrimmed RS shins if you cover the shipping cost:salute: Awesome! I hope it doesn’t come to that. But I’m really on the fence of how this will turn out.Also found out that apparently the shins are a different thickness then the ABS sent with. So now I get to do more ABS paste and sanding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 23, 2018 Report Posted July 23, 2018 1 hour ago, TheSwede said: Just for confirmation and future reference, for Centurion as well? I was once told by a mentor and former DO that if the build is balanced between the limbs, this includes larger material surface space required for larger troopers, then it's a go at all levels of approval. The key words here are "larger surface space required for larger troopers" and "balance between limbs". That does not mean 2" of space between your body and the armor. Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Report Posted July 24, 2018 18 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said: Also found out that apparently the shins are a different thickness then the ABS sent with. So now I get to do more ABS paste and sanding. You got this! Little bit of abs paste along the ridge and feather it out. Much like icining cupcakes. Sand to smooth and than can dip a finger in acetone and run finger along to bring back the shine 1 Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Report Posted July 24, 2018 14 minutes ago, ukswrath said: I was once told by a mentor and former DO that if the build is balanced between the limbs, this includes larger material surface space required for larger troopers, then it's a go at all levels of approval. The key words here are "larger surface space required for larger troopers" and "balance between limbs". That does not mean 2" of space between your body and the armor. Copy that Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Author Report Posted July 24, 2018 You got this! Little bit of abs paste along the ridge and feather it out. Much like icining cupcakes. Sand to smooth and than can dip a finger in acetone and run finger along to bring back the shine Thanks. I was completely lost how to get this shiny againSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Author Report Posted July 24, 2018 Put down a few layers of ABS paste, sanding each time and reapplying. Does anyone have a better way to apply the paste? I’m using a finger because I can’t find something else seems that works. But then maybe my paste is too thick? It’s about the consistency of toothpaste, maybe a little thinner.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Report Posted July 24, 2018 17 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said: Put down a few layers of ABS paste, sanding each time and reapplying. Does anyone have a better way to apply the paste? I’m using a finger because I can’t find something else seems that works. But then maybe my paste is too thick? It’s about the consistency of toothpaste, maybe a little thinner. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I use a Popsicle stick when I applied mine. Its looking good! fill in a few small parts you got and sand it all down to smooth. Than apply a small amount of acetone to the finger and run it over the sand to give it back that shine! I'm excited to see how this turns out. It actually looks like that flat edge is not as noticeable either! GREAT WORK! 1 Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted July 24, 2018 Report Posted July 24, 2018 Just checking, but, is the coverstrip going to end up being straight and centre down the back of the calves? Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Posted July 25, 2018 Just checking, but, is the coverstrip going to end up being straight and centre down the back of the calves? Oh wow... thanks for pointing that out. I just made a lot more work for myself.Looks like I’m going to have to trim the shim I just put on about 12mm and add that to the other side. Is how it’s sitting now good for a target spot?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted July 25, 2018 Report Posted July 25, 2018 Looks central from that shot. Always easier to see when it’s on you, though. Keep up the good work. :-) Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 25, 2018 Report Posted July 25, 2018 I would put the shin on and align the coverstrip. It may not sit as straight as you think Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 25, 2018 Author Report Posted July 25, 2018 Looks central from that shot. Always easier to see when it’s on you, though. Keep up the good work. :-) Here is one with it on. The top moved after I put it on, otherwise it would have been more centered.So now my plan is to cut along the pencil line here and add basically the same amount to the other side. ABS paste where the Velcro and coverstrip won’t hide. Then Obi Wan is my only hope, that nothing else is wrong.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted July 25, 2018 Report Posted July 25, 2018 Hi John,I’m only viewing on my phone at the moment, however I’d say your pencil line is looking about right. Personally, I’d want to get the coverstrip right in the middle of those “ridge” lines (highlighted here in blue). Equal amounts either side of the coverstrip will be key to an even appearance. Just make sure it’s nice and straight. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 26, 2018 Author Report Posted July 26, 2018 Hi John,I’m only viewing on my phone at the moment, however I’d say your pencil line is looking about right. Personally, I’d want to get the coverstrip right in the middle of those “ridge” lines (highlighted here in blue). Equal amounts either side of the coverstrip will be key to an even appearance. Just make sure it’s nice and straight. :-)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks. Hopefully this will be the last setback with this shin.And I did find some other screws for the TD.Do these look correct? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 26, 2018 Report Posted July 26, 2018 Correct screws! and shins are coming along nicely! Keep up the work trooper! Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 26, 2018 Author Report Posted July 26, 2018 Ok so here is a new problem. My shoulder snap pulled out from the elastic. (Genius me didn’t double it up) so I’m trying to decide what is the best way to fix this?I was able to push the snap back into the elastic easy enough. But obviously any stress will just pop it back out.Currently my idea is to remove both snaps and sew a patch of elastic on it then put new snaps in. That or leave them where they are and sew on the patch with E6000 between the layers. My only reason to use the E6000 method is I am out of Tandy snaps.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
StrmTRPR85[TK] Posted July 26, 2018 Report Posted July 26, 2018 I think your best bet is to get more tandys and double it up. You can even put some type of spacer between (washer, scrap thin ABS, etc) to prevent it from ripping through. Quote
REAPERofDAISYS[TK] Posted July 28, 2018 Author Report Posted July 28, 2018 I think your best bet is to get more tandys and double it up. You can even put some type of spacer between (washer, scrap thin ABS, etc) to prevent it from ripping through. That sounds like a better long term idea.Now I’m onto the belt drop boxes. Unfortunately as with everything I seem to do. They didn’t match up perfectly.One has about no space between the belt and ammo box.The other has the smallest gap.With the belt on it’s almost impossible to tell. But I’m pretty OCD about this stuff so I want to change them to match.Would you recommend dropping the one or tightening the other?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
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