Reaper's ANH -Stunt- build, ATA (Hopefully to centurion level)

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Here are a few EIB approvals for ATA

 

 

 

And Centurion for ATA

 

 

Try double checking their build threads and see if the same issue came up.  I would wait for the DOs to chime in

Edited July 23, 2018 by StrmTRPR85
adding info

[ukswrath[Staff]]

If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level.

 

Shoulder Straps

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

3 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level.

 

That is one part Tony.  The other part is the flat portions on the back of the shins and biceps.

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

If I'm understanding the above concern correctly, the accuracy nuts can hack away at their straps if they so wish, for everyone else it will not hold you back at any level.
 

Shoulder Straps

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

Thanks for the input. The other part that was brought up is these flat spots near the butt joints.


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[ukswrath[Staff]]

40 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said:

Thanks for the input. The other part that was brought up is these flat spots near the butt joints.


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If your arms require the space then yes its allowed though it would look better if the cover strip was evenly placed 

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

5 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

If your arms require the space then yes its allowed though it would look better if the cover strip was evenly placed 

That helps. And I do agree it would look a lot better with those removed. Unfortunately hind-site is 20/20. I will plan to leave them as is until I get basic approval then get into the fine tuning once I have that. 

And thanks everyone for all the input and quick replies.
Still hoping these cursed shins don't put an end to my TK build.

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 hours ago, ukswrath said:

If your arms require the space then yes its allowed

Just for confirmation and future reference, for Centurion as well?

 

 

2 hours ago, REAPERofDAISYS said:

I will plan to leave them as is until I get basic approval then get into the fine tuning once I have that. 

Sounds like a good plan 

 

2 hours ago, REAPERofDAISYS said:

put an end to my TK build.

We can`t have that so if all else fails I will send you a pair of untrimmed RS shins if you cover the shipping cost

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

We can`t have that so if all else fails I will send you a pair of untrimmed RS shins if you cover the shipping cost:salute:

Awesome! I hope it doesn’t come to that. But I’m really on the fence of how this will turn out.
Also found out that apparently the shins are a different thickness then the ABS sent with. So now I get to do more ABS paste and sanding.


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[ukswrath[Staff]]

1 hour ago, TheSwede said:

Just for confirmation and future reference, for Centurion as well?

 

I was once told by a mentor and former DO that if the build is balanced between the limbs, this includes larger material surface space required for larger troopers, then it's a go at all levels of approval. The key words here are "larger surface space required for larger troopers" and "balance between limbs". That does not mean 2" of space between your body and the armor. 

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

18 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said:

Also found out that apparently the shins are a different thickness then the ABS sent with. So now I get to do more ABS paste and sanding.

You got this! Little bit of abs paste along the ridge and feather it out.  Much like icining cupcakes.  Sand to smooth and than can dip a finger in acetone and run finger along to bring back the shine

[TheSwede[TK]]

14 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

I was once told by a mentor and former DO that if the build is balanced between the limbs, this includes larger material surface space required for larger troopers, then it's a go at all levels of approval. The key words here are "larger surface space required for larger troopers" and "balance between limbs". That does not mean 2" of space between your body and the armor. 

Copy that

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

You got this! Little bit of abs paste along the ridge and feather it out.  Much like icining cupcakes.  Sand to smooth and than can dip a finger in acetone and run finger along to bring back the shine

Thanks. I was completely lost how to get this shiny again


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[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

Put down a few layers of ABS paste, sanding each time and reapplying.
Does anyone have a better way to apply the paste? I’m using a finger because I can’t find something else seems that works. But then maybe my paste is too thick? It’s about the consistency of toothpaste, maybe a little thinner.



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[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

17 minutes ago, REAPERofDAISYS said:

Put down a few layers of ABS paste, sanding each time and reapplying.
Does anyone have a better way to apply the paste? I’m using a finger because I can’t find something else seems that works. But then maybe my paste is too thick? It’s about the consistency of toothpaste, maybe a little thinner.



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I use a Popsicle stick when I applied mine.  Its looking good! fill in a few small parts you got and sand it all down to smooth.  Than apply a small amount of acetone to the finger and run it over the sand to give it back that shine!  I'm excited to see how this turns out.  It actually looks like that flat edge is not as noticeable either!  GREAT WORK!

[CableGuy[TK]]

Just checking, but, is the coverstrip going to end up being straight and centre down the back of the calves?

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

Just checking, but, is the coverstrip going to end up being straight and centre down the back of the calves?

Oh wow... thanks for pointing that out. I just made a lot more work for myself.

Looks like I’m going to have to trim the shim I just put on about 12mm and add that to the other side. Is how it’s sitting now good for a target spot?


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[CableGuy[TK]]

Looks central from that shot. Always easier to see when it’s on you, though.
Keep up the good work. :-)

[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

I would put the shin on and align the coverstrip.  It may not sit as straight as you think

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

Looks central from that shot. Always easier to see when it’s on you, though.
Keep up the good work. :-)

Here is one with it on. The top moved after I put it on, otherwise it would have been more centered.

So now my plan is to cut along the pencil line here and add basically the same amount to the other side. ABS paste where the Velcro and coverstrip won’t hide. Then Obi Wan is my only hope, that nothing else is wrong.



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[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi John,

I’m only viewing on my phone at the moment, however I’d say your pencil line is looking about right. Personally, I’d want to get the coverstrip right in the middle of those “ridge” lines (highlighted here in blue).



Equal amounts either side of the coverstrip will be key to an even appearance.

Just make sure it’s nice and straight. :-)





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[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

Hi John,

I’m only viewing on my phone at the moment, however I’d say your pencil line is looking about right. Personally, I’d want to get the coverstrip right in the middle of those “ridge” lines (highlighted here in blue).



Equal amounts either side of the coverstrip will be key to an even appearance.

Just make sure it’s nice and straight. :-)





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Thanks. Hopefully this will be the last setback with this shin.
And I did find some other screws for the TD.
Do these look correct?




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[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

Correct screws!  and shins are coming along nicely!  Keep up the work trooper!

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

Ok so here is a new problem. My shoulder snap pulled out from the elastic. (Genius me didn’t double it up) so I’m trying to decide what is the best way to fix this?
I was able to push the snap back into the elastic easy enough. But obviously any stress will just pop it back out.

Currently my idea is to remove both snaps and sew a patch of elastic on it then put new snaps in. That or leave them where they are and sew on the patch with E6000 between the layers.
My only reason to use the E6000 method is I am out of Tandy snaps.




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[StrmTRPR85[TK]]

I think your best bet is to get more tandys and double it up.   You can even put some type of spacer between (washer, scrap thin ABS, etc) to prevent it from ripping through.

[REAPERofDAISYS[TK]]

I think your best bet is to get more tandys and double it up.   You can even put some type of spacer between (washer, scrap thin ABS, etc) to prevent it from ripping through.

That sounds like a better long term idea.

Now I’m onto the belt drop boxes. Unfortunately as with everything I seem to do. They didn’t match up perfectly.
One has about no space between the belt and ammo box.
The other has the smallest gap.

With the belt on it’s almost impossible to tell. But I’m pretty OCD about this stuff so I want to change them to match.
Would you recommend dropping the one or tightening the other?


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