CableGuy's DoopyDoos (feat. T-Jay kit) ANH E-11 WIP

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi all,

Got a few little parts added today. I’ve taken to using bolts and removing the head. I can then screw that part/s into place before gluing.

Here’s some update pics.









It’s nice to see more parts on my blaster than on the shelf next to my workspace. Means I must be getting closer to he finish line. :-)

Cheers,
Dan :-)




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[Dracotrooper]

It's really coming along now Dan - nice work!

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi blaster friends.

 

Although I’m not quite there yet, im planning ahead to the painting phase.

 

If been reading through the blaster reference - could you please let me know if the below looks about right?

 

Grip - primer > semi gloss black

 

Trigger group (selected parts) and inner bolt - primer > metallic grey/steel like

 

Sterling parts - primer > silver/metallic undercoat > crinkle effect black

 

Scope - brass > flat black

 

Counter, trigger, end cap, power cylinders, selector switch, charging handle, magazine - primer > flat black

 

T-tracks - Black rubber effect? Hand painted?

 

Regarding the T-Tracks, I saw that Tino used a rubber effect paint of some sort, however I couldn’t see if it was sprayed (at some point in the process), or hand painted.

 

This will be followed by some weathering.

 

Thanks in advance. :-)

 

 

 

 

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[CableGuy[TK]]

Today’s 20minute mod is....





:-)


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[T-Jay[TK]]

5 hours ago, CableGuy said:

(...)    If been reading through the blaster reference - could you please let me know if the below looks about right?

 

Grip - primer > semi gloss black

 

Trigger group (selected parts) and inner bolt - primer > metallic grey/steel like

 

Sterling parts - primer > silver/metallic undercoat > crinkle effect black

 

Scope - brass > flat black

 

Counter, trigger, end cap, power cylinders, selector switch, charging handle, magazine - primer > flat black

 

T-tracks - Black rubber effect? Hand painted?

 

Regarding the T-Tracks, I saw that Tino used a rubber effect paint of some sort, however I couldn’t see if it was sprayed (at some point in the process), or hand painted.

 

This will be followed by some weathering.

 

Thanks in advance. :-)

Looks good to me, Dan. The brass and flat black you plan to use on the scope can also be used on the Hengstler socket (the part with the window and the logo).

The black paint on my T-tracks was Tamiya XF-1 (hand-brushed) but wasn't worth the effort in my case, as there was little to no difference in the end.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Looks good to me, Dan. The brass and flat black you plan to use on the scope can also be used on the Hengstler socket (the part with the window and the logo).

The black paint on my T-tracks was Tamiya XF-1 (hand-brushed) but wasn't worth the effort in my case, as there was little to no difference in the end.

 

Thanks, Tino. Flat black for the t-tracks then.

 

I’m a little unsure of whether to use hammered or wrinkle paint. Did I read that you said you’d probably not use hammered again?

 

Hammered vs wrinkle aside, here’s what I’m planning to order*;

 

*need to add semi-gloss black to the order

 

 

I’ve used Humbrol for other projects over the years, including my lid, so assuming they should be up to the job.

 

I noticed that tennantlim used wrinkle. Might delve a little deeper into that aspect of it. :-)

 

 

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[T-Jay[TK]]

The hammered paint (preferably combined with the paper dabbing method) is a good way to bring a nice texture on your paint's surface. Compared with the wrinkle paint, it is easier to apply, dries much faster and does not smell like hell.

 

In this build here I had used the wrinkle paint and it turned out not as perfect as I had expected. Be aware: this paint requires a specific room temperature, air humidity, triple layer spray technique and 48 hours drying time. And although my paint job was completed 1.5 years ago (at this moment) it still smells!  Keep that in mind.

 

Oh and for working with green stuff, I found it useful to simply keep my fingers and tools wet. This reduces the stickiness. 

[CableGuy[TK]]

The hammered paint (preferably combined with the paper dabbing method) is a good way to bring a nice texture on your paint's surface. Compared with the wrinkle paint, it is easier to apply, dries much faster and does not smell like hell.
 
In this build here I had used the wrinkle paint and it turned out not as perfect as I had expected. Be aware: this paint requires a specific room temperature, air humidity, triple layer spray technique and 48 hours drying time. And although my paint job was completed 1.5 years ago (at this moment) it still smells!  Keep that in mind.
 
Oh and for working with green stuff, I found it useful to simply keep my fingers and tools wet. This reduces the stickiness. 

Tino, you’re a star. I really appreciate your advice and experience on this.
Many thanks. :-)


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[GodOfLibra[TK]]

Nice build buddy, I will follow you, next step after armour is the blaster(thx to Tino that give me his doopy)


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[CableGuy[TK]]

31 minutes ago, GodOfLibra said:

Nice build buddy, I will follow you, next step after armour is the blaster(thx to Tino that give me his doopy)


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Excellent - I look forward to seeing that. Your armour is looking great. :-)

 

...and, thank you kindly. :-)

Edited October 23, 2017 by CableGuy

[CableGuy[TK]]

Special delivery...



:-)


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[Dracotrooper]

How exciting Dan!  - That delivery was record speed by the way....Here's where the artistic part of the build really gets explored; looking forward to seeing your approach  

[CableGuy[TK]]

How exciting Dan!  - That delivery was record speed by the way....Here's where the artistic part of the build really gets explored; looking forward to seeing your approach  

 

Cheers Jesse. Yes, Amazon Prime is pretty speedy. :-)

 

I’m quite an artistic person* so hoping that transfers to my blaster painting skills. ;-)

 

*

 

 

My family’s been passing around a virus around the house over the last few days (yuk) but all recovering now. Hopefully I can start to make further progress on my blaster soon. :-)

 

 

 

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[Dracotrooper]

10 hours ago, CableGuy said:

 

Cheers Jesse. Yes, Amazon Prime is pretty speedy. :-) I’m quite an artistic person* so hoping that transfers to my blaster painting skills. ;-) ... My family’s been passing around a virus around the house over the last few days (yuk) but all recovering now. Hopefully I can start to make further progress on my blaster soon. :-)

Ahh, talent revealed - a steady hand on a pencil began first ahead of those surgeon hands on a blaster! Some tips from Adam Savage: Mask, Mask, Mask to make different paints, placed side-by-side pop, and also for adding accents: 'less, in most cases, is more' - have fun painting!!!!

[CableGuy[TK]]

Ahh, talent revealed - a steady hand on a pencil began first ahead of those surgeon hands on a blaster! Some tips from Adam Savage: Mask, Mask, Mask to make different paints, placed side-by-side pop, and also for adding accents: 'less, in most cases, is more' - have fun painting!!!!

Hehe. I like it. I always think of Tino as the Blaster Master - perhaps I’ll become “the surgeon”. ;-)
Lol




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[CableGuy[TK]]

No pencils in sight for this bit - I spent my lunch break staring at pictures of real Hengstler counters. Although I don’t have the correct font, I did work with some basic shapes and effects to create my “number dial”. I’ve printed copies with the TK number that I’ll request, but don’t want to put them online in case I jinx it. ;-)



Excuse the photo taken of my computer screen. A couple of different designs. Of course, they look different behind Perspex and will be very small when inside the counter.

I’m quite pleased for a first attempt.


Also re-worked the resin mag clip as the Doopy’s is some way from authentic.
Work in progress - will work further on it and upload more pics later.



As always, more to follow. :-)


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[Dracotrooper]

31 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

No pencils in sight for this bit - I spent my lunch break staring at pictures of real Hengstler counters. Although I don’t have the correct font, I did work with some basic shapes and effects to create my “number dial”. I’ve printed copies with the TK number that I’ll request, but don’t want to put them online in case I jinx it. ;-) ... se the photo taken of my computer screen. A couple of different designs. Of course, they look different behind Perspex and will be very small when inside the counter. ... Qite pleased for a first attempt. ... re-worked the resin mag clip as the Doopy’s is some way from authentic. Wrk in progress - will work further on it and upload more pics later. ... As always, more to follow. :-)

Hengstler Counter numbers looking great, like mine and Tennant's! In my estimation, you've go the right font and dimensions as well.

 

 

 

Have fun with your magazine mod, allot can be done on it - looking forward to your post

[T-Jay[TK]]

Was impressed by your drawing skills in that first photo - and then blown away by the precision of Mickey Mouse in the next picture. Wow, that looks spot on. You're not working for Disney, aren't you?!

 

Your term "Blaster Master" made me blush. Please don't get it wrong but all in all I am just a common builder. Like many others here, I got my inspiration from existing builds years ago and just tried to push the limit. This again inspired other people to raise the bar higher. At the end, it all increases the accuracy of our blasters, which is a good thing.

 

Your Hengstler numbers look very good. I faintly remembered a link to print individual numbers, but have not found it and you've already done it yourself.

 

Excellent reshaping work on the standard DoopyDoo's magazine. Do you plan to install the LED head to simulate that little release button? If so, just bear in mind not to drill too deep. Otherwise the head will stick out too much.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Was impressed by your drawing skills in that first photo - and then blown away by the precision of Mickey Mouse in the next picture. Wow, that looks spot on. You're not working for Disney, aren't you?!
 
Your term "Blaster Master" made me blush. Please don't get it wrong but all in all I am just a common builder. Like many others here, I got my inspiration from existing builds years ago and just tried to push the limit. This again inspired other people to raise the bar higher. At the end, it all increases the accuracy of our blasters, which is a good thing.
 
Your Hengstler numbers look very good. I faintly remembered a link to print individual numbers, but have not found it and you've already done it yourself.
 
Excellent reshaping work on the standard DoopyDoo's magazine. Do you plan to install the LED head to simulate that little release button? If so, just bear in mind not to drill too deep. Otherwise the head will stick out too much.

You’re a very kind man, Tino. I do like to doodle when I can. And, working for Disney? Talk about a dream job. :-)

Regarding the mag, yes, I’m planning to add the LED from your kit - hopefully spring loaded so it functions. I have to check some build techniques for that before I delve in. Noted on the depth. :-)

And yes, you’re right. There are many incredible builds to learn from. So many little ideas that can make a blaster look superb. Yours are definitely a big part of that. :-)




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[CableGuy[TK]]

Hengstler Counter numbers looking great, like mine and Tennant's! In my estimation, you've go the right font and dimensions as well.
 

 

 
Have fun with your magazine mod, allot can be done on it - looking forward to your post

Thanks Jesse.
I remembered that you acquired a Hengstler and spent quite a while looking at the pics from your thread. Very helpful to see so many angles of it.
I actually got my Perspex from part of an old ruler - hopefully it’ll do the trick. :-)


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[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi all,

Spent an hour yesterday working on the clearing strip. Erm... it’s not looking amazing. ;-)








Now, I’m really struggling to ‘bend’ or shape the clearing strip to sit nicely on the bolt:







I tried giving the ABS a heat bath but it still doesn’t sit well.

Any tips?


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[Dracotrooper]

Hey there Dan! You have the general shape of the clearing strip that's for sure; although by my estimations, it seems a tad wide. Yeah, I know the feeling of that plastic not being flush against the inner bolt. Eventually I was able to pull it off. With my heat gun at high setting, I got the plastic malleable in seconds and moved quickly to push it up against the bolt to get the shape. Unfortunately, shaping does take time, which will provide dividends during the gluing stage. I say take your time with it, you still have plenty of plastic from the completion set for another go if you wish, my two cents, cheers!

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I used a lot of brute force and ignorance on mine. I also superglued my fingers on and had to sand off the prints IIRC so maybe don't do that.  Maybe dunk the part in a mug of boiling water before applying?

 

I also seem to remember mine being about 1/4" 6mm ish wide, your's looks a lot wider than that.

Edited November 1, 2017 by themaninthesuitcase

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hey there Dan! You have the general shape of the clearing strip that's for sure; although by my estimations, it seems a tad wide. Yeah, I know the feeling of that plastic not being flush against the inner bolt. Eventually I was able to pull it off. With my heat gun at high setting, I got the plastic malleable in seconds and moved quickly to push it up against the bolt to get the shape. Unfortunately, shaping does take time, which will provide dividends during the gluing stage. I say take your time with it, you still have plenty of plastic from the completion set for another go if you wish, my two cents, cheers!

Cheers, Jesse. The strip itself is approx 8mm wide - the pencil marks on the bolt are just either side of the strip for positioning. I’ll have a dig around for confirmation of the strip width.
I have a heat gun. Any tips? What’s best to hold the plastic with without damaging the strip? Pliers? :-)


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[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

5 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

I have a heat gun. Any tips? What’s best to hold the plastic with without damaging the strip? Pliers? :-)

 

Shouldn't be that hot, warm it enough to flex not melt it.  I'd probably just chance it with my fingers, then moan they got burnt!