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Posted

Indeed, a nice idea to make this from wood. Looks good.

 

If not yet glued, I would kindly suggest to sand the bottom of your rear sight to better match the shape of the receiver tube. This would reduce the gaps on both sides. Or you can just fill them with green stuff.

 

Sorry for comments like this. Don't want to sound like a teacher. Just following these cool build threads out there and I know, sometimes it's hard to notice these small details while being busy with building the whole thing.

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Posted
Indeed, a nice idea to make this from wood. Looks good.
 
If not yet glued, I would kindly suggest to sand the bottom of your rear sight to better match the shape of the receiver tube. This would reduce the gaps on both sides. Or you can just fill them with green stuff.
 
Sorry for comments like this. Don't want to sound like a teacher. Just following these cool build threads out there and I know, sometimes it's hard to notice these small details while being busy with building the whole thing.


Hi Tino,
Never fear - I really appreciate any constructive feedback. Anything to make it look great!

I don’t think the blaster reference pdf goes into much detail on the underside of the rear sight, so I was guessing it just gets glued in place and then filled at the sides with green stuff. I prefer your idea though. I’ll use one of your tricks and wrap sand paper around the tube to get the shape right.

I hope the scope/counter positioning and end cap clip looking okay.


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Posted

Right, following on from Tino’s observation, I sanded a curve onto the underside of the rear sight. It now fits much better.

 

Here a shot of before, after and a genuine sterling for comparison.

 

I’ve noticed that my pivot point for the end cap clip is a little different, however it will be functional and appears to work okay for my build. :-)

 

96604d187771e1ef59703ade8a2f070e.jpg

 

 

7fd417ff65bacf4683dbd662e786fffc.jpg

 

Cheers Tino. :-)

 

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Posted

The online version of the Blaster Reference contains detailed photos of a cleaned Sterling parts set. This is a very helpful resource. In a few photos, the rear sight has been disassembled and there you can see the rounded bottom. Wanted to post a picture of it, but your build progress was faster :)

Posted
The online version of the Blaster Reference contains detailed photos of a cleaned Sterling parts set. This is a very helpful resource. In a few photos, the rear sight has been disassembled and there you can see the rounded bottom. Wanted to post a picture of it, but your build progress was faster

Wow - those photos are superb. Gives a much better understanding of how these weapons work and what the resin parts are trying to emulate.

Many thanks for that link. :-)


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Posted

Hi everyone.

 

Did a little work on the power cylinders today. Cut down the aluminium rod to 3 off 23mm, then used Tino’s trick of putting the rods in a drill and filing the edges.

 

35d5ea7bfe4c2afabeeee02f14727390.jpg

 

I also started on the inner bolt and cocking handle.

 

 

How’s this looking? Is there a specific distance between red a green (below);

e67e64807ec2501ef564fd11658a19af.jpg

 

 

Also, is there a practical reason why more people don’t just cut out/remove the entire ejector port? My brain keeps saying, “why not just remove it and create a nice inner bolt”. Then the strip will be perfectly lined up and fully colour matched etc.

 

07f0937fb595a79d7b752ef94fe1d115.jpg

 

Cheers in advance. :-)

 

 

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Posted
12 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Also, is there a practical reason why more people don’t just cut out/remove the entire ejector port? My brain keeps saying, “why not just remove it and create a nice inner bolt”. Then the strip will be perfectly lined up and fully colour matched etc.

People have done.  I considered it and then decided it would be a massive pain in the a very impolite person.  The resin is a good 3-4mm thick then there's a PVC tube in there as well.

Posted
People have done.  I considered it and then decided it would be a massive pain in the a very impolite person.  The resin is a good 3-4mm thick then there's a PVC tube in there as well.


Hi Chris.
Cheers - that sounds like a very sensible reason why it’s not done more widely. :-)


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Posted

Dan, check out theFISD reference sections #16 and #17. I did this mod by first carving out the perimeter to create depth but then got crazy and removed the whole ejection port, then created an aluminum plate to replicate the bolt . It slides into place. Took a lot of work but it was fun doing it. Gives it a bit more realism but beware it also required me to make the wAlls thin enough to get that effect, makes it more fragile. 

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Posted

Oooooh Dan, the power cylinders! how exciting! Looking forward to more details to come. Me too, I only contemplated for a moment in carving out the inner bolt but decided against it because I was afraid I would compromise the integrity of the receiver tube. This feat would be too big for me to carry out with confidence, but as Brian shared, it can be rewarding to do so.

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Posted
3 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Dan, check out theFISD reference sections #16 and #17. I did this mod by first carving out the perimeter to create depth but then got crazy and removed the whole ejection port, then created an aluminum plate to replicate the bolt . It slides into place. Took a lot of work but it was fun doing it. Gives it a bit more realism but beware it also required me to make the wAlls thin enough to get that effect, makes it more fragile. 

 

Thanks Brian. I see what you mean. It looks like a very nice mod, but a lot more involved than the more common approach. I think I will just work with the existing ejection port and add more definition to the edges, to enhance the illusion of separate parts.

 

Great use of the 3.5mm male-female jack, BTW. :-)

 

 Dan :-)

Posted

Hi everyone.

Started working on the bolt and cocking handle. Decided to drill into the cocking/charge handle and fit in a bolt. Took the head off the bolt to have use of both ends.

be4441f5c6a77d81147c0c054422e248.jpg


Managed to forget to take a picture of the handle with bolt, but basically the thread goes into the inner bolt with a nut on the inside.


Moved on to my spring using the wire from Tino’s kit. I checked some reference pics and 12-13 coils seems to be about right.
I used a drum stick (another former hobby of mine) to wrap the wire around. When coiled, I stretched it long enough to give good resistance again the end cap. Seems to work really nicely.

31172f28e33d2e351496c3e9f5933a73.jpg

bbdbe96ac3cac413342697c18b964fe0.jpg

Cheers. :-)


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Posted

That looks good, Dan. You made some nice progress there. Do you plan to build an inlay to fill the slot between the charging handle and the spring?

Posted
That looks good, Dan. You made some nice progress there. Do you plan to build an inlay to fill the slot between the charging handle and the spring?

Cheers Tino.
Yes indeed. I have a marker pen at the ready. ;-)


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Posted
That looks good, Dan. You made some nice progress there. Do you plan to build an inlay to fill the slot between the charging handle and the spring?

Just realised which piece you mean. The part on top of the inner tube. Yes - I’ll be making something to do that job. Not sure what yet though. Just ran out of time this evening. :-)

 

 

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Posted

Thanks about the 3.5 jack comment. It was a useful piece to incorporate , making it easy to keep things in place but not fall off. 

 

Great at progress on the charging handle and spring. For the ejection port, just carving out the edges for depth will be more than enough. It looks cool when it’s done, just like your t-track idea. 

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Posted
Just realised which piece you mean. The part on top of the inner tube. Yes - I’ll be making something to do that job. Not sure what yet though. Just ran out of time this evening. :-)


Perhaps Tino can enlighten us on what material he used for making his piece...intrigued

11cf82e285b560ed09fe0e8596ecd423.png
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Posted


Perhaps Tino can enlighten us on what material he used for making his piece...intrigued

11cf82e285b560ed09fe0e8596ecd423.png


I spotted a piece of MDF in my shed which looks like it’s just the right thickness. I’ll have a look tonight. :-)


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Posted
Thanks about the 3.5 jack comment. It was a useful piece to incorporate , making it easy to keep things in place but not fall off. 
 
Great at progress on the charging handle and spring. For the ejection port, just carving out the edges for depth will be more than enough. It looks cool when it’s done, just like your t-track idea. 


Thanks, Brian. I’ve got a 12 piece set of carving tools arriving today so will have a good go at that. :-)


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Posted
15 hours ago, Dracotrooper said:

Perhaps Tino can enlighten us on what material he used for making his piece...intrigued

 

9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

I spotted a piece of MDF in my shed which looks like it’s just the right thickness. I’ll have a look tonight. :-)

 

In my case a solid piece of hard plastic was used, just because it was available. Dan's idea with the MDF is much better, as this material is way easier to shape and will lead to the same result.

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Posted


Hi all.

Not a lot to report. Just a slight update to the trigger guard and a custom sight pin.

As you’ll see, took an old bolt, removed thread from top, added side groove and cut down to size. Still needs a little tidying up, but hopefully looking okay.

770eff3432b88f355dae1f40758e316b.jpg

Also reshaped and added slots to the trigger guard.

1ddddc49a63c75ae215460c39d79e381.jpg

That’s all, folks. :-)


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Posted

A little more done than I expected today.

My first foray into using Green stuff. Mixed up too much so decided to do a couple of other tasks with the excess.

62eddaba58e1d90f9bdbd091a1286443.jpg

e45a6182f9bbfd5e5b4032c6f8681c56.jpg

1f04f881382c61c71be3d1ae3835ce91.jpg

2065cafee5d1821eaabbc6e10e1d00f8.jpg


Plenty of sanding and finishing to do. :-)



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Posted

Nice central capacitors Dan! - looking like the real deal :jc_doublethumbup: If you get the green stuff to flare out; they will be more like the originals as used on screen, following Andy's (Playfulwolfcub) research. See page 22 of his document found here: E-11 Power Cylinders Research Thread (renamed from "3 Central Fuses...")

 

37144164173_a11416e2e3_o.jpg

 

As for working with green stuff; I found putting a little bit of corn starch on your hands before forming with take away some of the stickiness making the task easier.

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Posted

Cheers Jesse. Good idea with the corn starch. My wife does that with fondant (she makes big cake creations). Will try that next time.

Had a little go at reshaping following your handy link. Essentially though, I think mine are a little too thick to get them spot on. Appreciate the link though. :-)


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